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    Bristol Pilot Cutter - Katie
    29 Posts Β· 19 Followers Β· 121 Photos Β· 207 Likes
    Began 2 years ago by
    Warrant Officer
    United Kingdom
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    Latest Post 2 years ago by
    Warrant Officer
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    πŸ“ Bristol Pilot Cutter - Katie
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 248 Views · 8 Likes · 5 Comments
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    I’m aware another member of this forum is also building a Bristol Pilot Cutter β€œKatie”, so I hope members don’t mind if I share my progress with the same model. The drawings that come with the hull moulding show some information but leave plenty for the builder to work out for themselves. I did buy the reprint (1999) of "The Sailing Pilots of the Bristol Channel" written by Peter Stuckey and first published in 1977. There are also lots of photos on the internet, which can help. The aim is to a make model that sails but also looks reasonably accurate. To help judge the scale, which is 1/12 th, I bought a dolls house figure to the same scale.

    I added a length of 7/16th brass sq. section to the keel. Adds strength, weight low down and also increases the lateral resistance. The final ballast will be lead shot, testing in the bath. The plan is to use two winches, one for the main and the other for the jibs. In this way these can be sheeted in as on a full size boat, moving across as the boat tacks, although I don’t expect great windward performance.

    There is a blog

    https://building-katie.blogspot.com/
    πŸ’¬ Re: Bristol Pilot Cutter - Katie
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Muskrat ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 251 Views · 2 Likes
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    Thanks for that Andy but until I can get a trapped nerve in my lower back shifted I am limited, you are a lot further into your build so i will be catching you up by the time I get into mine again.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Bristol Pilot Cutter - Katie
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 248 Views · 1 Like
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    Hi Muskat - hope you feel better soon and can return to "Katie" - look forward to seeing how you are getting on.
    πŸ’¬ Re: Bristol Pilot Cutter - Katie
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 248 Views · 1 Like
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    Hi Michel

    I used electrical trunking for the rail, which is bolted at the ends and glued with West Epoxy to an aluminium channel - 15mm wide. The guide/slider is made from 6mm thick acrylic - which seems to slide very well - used a touch of PTFE spray.

    The hull is made from GRP - from Sarik Models


    https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/katie-gaff-rig-pilot-cutter-by-david-aldert
    πŸ’¬ Re: Bristol Pilot Cutter - Katie
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Muskrat ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 250 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi Andy, You are getting on really well with yours, i totally agree with you a lot of the build is left to the builder. I have put mine on hold for now as i am not in particularly in good health mainly due to the cold weather and not being able to work in this cold. I have another project a Fairmile D dog boat which i can build in my spare bedroom, I will follow your blog with great interest.
    πŸ’¬ Re: Bristol Pilot Cutter - Katie
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¨πŸ‡­ Mike Stoney ( Commander)
    ✧ 251 Views · 1 Like
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    Excuse me Andy, me again.
    I have a question about your photos in Blogspot.com
    Winch: Did you use a curtain rail there or is this an aluminum C profile?
    What material did you use for the guide piece? Really interesting.
    Concerning the hull:
    What is your basic material and what comes after it?
    I would be grateful for your tips. I myself am still waiting for my goods and cannot continue to work. That's why I have a lot of time for questions. . 😊😊😊😊
    Best regards
    Michel Claude
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    πŸ“ Mainsail Winch
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 239 Views · 5 Likes · 3 Comments
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    This is the mainsail winch in place for testing. The mainsheet will come through the deck via a brass sleeve and up to the boom, where it will run along the boom and out to the transom. The 450mm travel on the winch slider should just give enough movement for the boom to travel out.

    I may consider some form of cover to the winch drum to help prevent "tangles"

    πŸ’¬ Re: Mainsail Winch
    2 years ago by πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ pressonreguardless ( Rear Admiral)
    ✧ 226 Views · 0 Likes
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    Alls far in Love and Boat BuildingπŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Mainsail Winch
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¨πŸ‡­ Mike Stoney ( Commander)
    ✧ 238 Views · 4 Likes
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    Hi Andy!!
    Do as I did this, using electrical industry tubing or a piece of an old walking stick!
    So I made it impossible for the cord to get tangled.
    Greetings Mike
    PS: This is called recycling crafting!! especially when you steal parts from your wife's sewing box! Just don't do that. . . the consequences could be fatal! 🀣🀣🀣🀣🀣. . . . πŸ˜”
    πŸ’¬ Re: Mainsail Winch
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ jimdogge ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 249 Views · 1 Like
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    Hi Andy b tried the cover for the sail winch didnt work what did work was the cord l used was the thinnest and strongest l could find in my case it was kevlar fishing line. l have 4 revolutions of the servo on my Robbe Smarge hardly takes up any room on the drum at all. l also threaded it through a couple of curtain screw eyes on the slider to keep it all in place.
    stay safe Jim.
    πŸ“ Katie - recent progress
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 231 Views · 5 Likes
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    Hopefully the photos will show where things are. The next stage is to get the rudder working. Initially I'd hoped to use rods from the servo but this won't work, so it will be two cables. On full size boats, the shroud plates were bent over the rubbing strake. This would be a bit of a fiddle, so a cut out has been made. The shroud plates still need to be made, as well as the method of attaching the rigging blocks.

    πŸ“ The Rudder
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 227 Views · 7 Likes · 1 Comment
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    The rudder is now fitted and works fine. One of the challenges is to make it easy to remove. Once the cables are detached from the servo, they will slide through the tubes in the transom. The rudder can then be removed.

    πŸ’¬ Re: The Rudder
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¨πŸ‡­ Mike Stoney ( Commander)
    ✧ 222 Views · 0 Likes
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    Hello Andy!
    That's more than perfect!! You are certainly well equipped with tools and machines, you can see it in the great details! "Chapeau!" in English like I take my hat off to you!!
    Greets Michel-Claude
    πŸ“ The Gooseneck
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 223 Views · 9 Likes · 5 Comments
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    The reefing doesn't actually work but could be made to. However, as its not really a practical solution for when it gets windy. The only solution in this situation is to remove the top sail and may be one of the jibs. This doesn't work then its into the clubhouse for a cup of tea.

    πŸ’¬ Re: The Gooseneck
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Muskrat ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 213 Views · 1 Like
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    Hi Andy, Still struggling and waiting for an MRi at the Hospital. Yes looking at your photo's of your gooseneck i think i can manage to make to make one from meccano parts and i have loads off RC car and Hornby train gears etc. Photo's really helped. I have been working on my Fairmile and getting on really well, Once i get the Prop shaft Skegs i have ordered i will get the four motors and props fitted before i cover the Hull with decking as i promised one of our American members i will do a blog and get some photo's on here. As far as Katie is concerned i will carry on with Build as soon as i have finished Fairmile. Thanks for the info on the Gooseneck That really helped with the head ache it was giving me.

    Cheers Jon
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    πŸ’¬ Re: The Gooseneck
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 219 Views · 0 Likes
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    Hi hammer

    Now that is an idea. Thanks

    However, I’ve decided to run the main sheet up through the deck, just aft of the mast, then along the underside of the boom, before dropping down to runner on the top of the transom.

    The reason for this, is because I couldn’t think of an easy way of getting the main sheet to come up through the deck near the transom, as it would interfere with the tiller, which I suppose could be removed while sailing, but wanted it to stay in place.
    πŸ’¬ Re: The Gooseneck
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ hammer ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 223 Views · 2 Likes
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    Where the end of the boom fits in the upright. drill out the pivot pin replace with a screw. This can be removed roll up sail & replace screw. That’s what I do. Photos best I can as packed down for winter. A 10BA screw is pivot.
    πŸ’¬ Re: The Gooseneck
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 219 Views · 1 Like
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    Hi Jon
    I hope you continue with yours. I was impressed with how you’d got on and the motor being installed. Something I have no experience of. It’s also useful to share ideas and experiences, so was looking forward to following your progress. I’ve struggled to find any other references to anyone building a Katie and keep searching β€œBristol pilot cutter” on the internet to see how the real ones looked. But I soon realised they are all different! Am currently trying to make the spars and work out the running rigging.

    Hence the need for the gooseneck, which I made. The gear is a Meccano one and the worm from a Hornby train.
    πŸ’¬ Re: The Gooseneck
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Muskrat ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 226 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi Andy, She is coming on so well now we're on earth did the Gooseneck come from I have been looking for months trying to find someone who could supply it but gave up. I still have mine and probably will get back in to the build at some point but really getting in to my Fairmile now and hopefully have it on the water come the summer.

    regards Jon.(Muskrat) πŸ‘
    πŸ“ Sail check
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 210 Views · 7 Likes · 2 Comments
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    The sails are not permanently attached to the spars. This exercise was to check how everything would come together and where various lines would run etc.

    Is the gooseneck in the correct place, does the jack spar work and is the mast rack correct etc? The lower mast step was designed to be adjustable, which has now been fixed in place.

    The block/pulley fixed next to the lower mast step is for the mainsheet, which will go vertically up to the deck just behind the mast, before running on the underside of the boom and then down to the stern.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Sail check
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦ Ronald ( Admiral)
    ✧ 212 Views · 1 Like
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    100% agree. This will look very nice on the water.
    πŸ’¬ Re: Sail check
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ roycv ( Rear Admiral)
    ✧ 209 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hi always a good idea to lodge the base of the mast close to the keel. Is the entry through the deck a firm fit? If you do this then the bending moment of the mast moves upwards and keeps the sails trimmed the way they are set.
    You might not think the mast bends but it does, the wind can change and snap a 50 kilo shroud easily. You will not need a boom vang but these go regularly on one of my yachts.

    When it comes to it I would tighten up the lower part of the main sail. Just give it about a 5 mm movement this preserves the aerifoil section to make the sail effective.

    When you see full size baggy sails these have stretched and need replacing, but there again they cost a lot of money.

    Things are looking good! Well done going to look great on the lake.

    Always nice to see a sailing boat under construction
    Roy
    πŸ“ Decking
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 204 Views · 6 Likes
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    There is a false deck made from 1.5mm ply. It was a bit like making a jigsaw. The copper tubes are for the jib sheets, which run round the block which will be attached to the post, one each side.

    πŸ“ Scuppers, Belay pins and deck planking
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 200 Views · 6 Likes · 5 Comments
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    On the full size/real Pilot Cutters the scuppers go along most of the length of the boat. Decided to make 4 each side, to maintain the integrity of the hull. Have made the rails for the belay pins, which in real life would be about a foot long, so on the model that's an inch. Not quite certain how to make them yet - they will need to be functional.

    Have started the planking, a practice in the centre area - which is easy. Not done this before but followed other's practice of gluing thin black card to the edge of the wood. The question is - what happens when you get to the curved edge? Do you trim/shape the planks to fit and then add some strips of black card - or do you try and glue thin strips of the card direct to the margin plank - and then there is the "nibbed" ends ! - any advice before I go further is welcome.

    I do intend to paint the margin plank, scuppers, frame tops etc white before I go any further. The capping rail will be the last thing to add and have bought some 4mm mahogany, which will be cut to shape/fit.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Scuppers, Belay pins and deck planking
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 200 Views · 0 Likes
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    That’s a very impressive police boat. Thanks for sharing the video. Had a look through the whole build and it’s very helpful. Many thanks.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Scuppers, Belay pins and deck planking
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 209 Views · 2 Likes
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    Just to add to your confusion


    blogs/78377#87951
    πŸ’¬ Re: Scuppers, Belay pins and deck planking
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 200 Views · 3 Likes
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    Thanks Graham and Dave
    The drawings show the planks just trimmed to suit the edge of the margin plank. However the drawings are not great and the boat is inspired by a pilot cutter rather than being based on a real full size example. So I tend to use photos of a range of actual boats to decide what to do.

    I’ve decided to complete the centre straight parts of the planking and decide what joggling to do when I get there. A little practice/test piece is needed first I feel.
    πŸ’¬ Re: Scuppers, Belay pins and deck planking
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Graham93 ( Vice Admiral)
    ✧ 205 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hi Andy,

    When I got to the stage of adding planks that needed to be juggled into the margin plank, I cut each new plank end to the desired shape, overlapped it onto the margin plank and used a scalpel to scribe the cutout needed in the margin for it to fit. Then cut this piece out and fitted the plank into position. I did caulk the ends.


    blogs/86653#88027
    πŸ’¬ Re: Scuppers, Belay pins and deck planking
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ dave976 ( Captain)
    ✧ 205 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hi AndyB
    The planking at the outside edges is joggled into the margin plank on this type of vessel. There is no caulking at the "nibbed ends" just a good flush joint but many modellers do caulk.
    Looking at your plans they appear show plain edges. If you can obtain a pic of Katie you may be able to see what was actually fitted.
    dave 976
    πŸ“ Starting the planking
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 199 Views · 10 Likes · 4 Comments
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    The first few planks were added to a small area but with a little investigation it soon became clear these were slightly off centre. By using two 1 metre lengths of the planking material it was possible to line everything up, it also showed up that two edges of the deck openings were slightly "off". A couple of thin tapered pieces of wood brought the openings in line.

    Decided to give "joggling" ago and are making steady progress, one line of planking at a time. Have included caulking as well - there seems to be a variety of approaches on different boats, so hopefully this will look satisfactory once finished. The planks are 10mm wide - which at 1/12 scale equals around 4 inches - which may be a touch wide but hopefully won't be to much of a distraction.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Starting the planking
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¦πŸ‡Ί stevedownunder ( Captain)
    ✧ 192 Views · 2 Likes
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    Great work Andy,

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Starting the planking
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ jacko ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 199 Views · 1 Like
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    keep up the good work looking good
    πŸ’¬ Re: Starting the planking
    2 years ago by πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ pressonreguardless ( Rear Admiral)
    ✧ 197 Views · 1 Like
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    Looks Good, AndyπŸ‘πŸ‘
    Trev
    πŸ’¬ Re: Starting the planking
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 208 Views · 1 Like
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    That's looking really impressive, clean cut sharp edges , very nice
    πŸ“ Shallow angles
    2 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ AndyB ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 197 Views · 2 Likes
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    πŸ’¬ Add Comment
    Thanks for the positive comments
    Much appreciated
    Have continued but found as the planking gets nearer the centre of the boat, the angles that need to be cut become more shallow and hence more difficult to keep straight. Also a cut finger didn’t help, a small amount of blood seems to go along way!

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