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    27

















    Followers
    The Vosper 46โ€ RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works
    by mturpin013 ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










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    67 Posts 236 Comments 402 Photos 563 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    6 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    As I said before I wanted to separate the smoke from the water so I have made an outlet that will be bolted into the transom that separates the two outlets, whilst appearing to exit through the same hole. First I machined the main body having an outside diameter of 10mm and internally an 8mm diameter bore which carries the smoke out.
    Into this 8mm dia there is a 5mm hole drilled at 90 degrees sideways and connects to a second body which is silver soldered to the main body, this has a 6mm entry pipe.
    The water is carried out through a 6mm tube which is soft soldered into the main body. Finally an outer ring was machined; it was drilled/tapped 10BA which will allow it to be fastened into the transom. I have yet to try this for real but I see no reason for apprehension!

    8mm diameter bore
    ring
    6mm tube
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    6 days ago by Graham93 ( Warrant Officer)
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    Michael,

    Those look really smart. Looking forward to seeing them in action.

    Graham93
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    6 days ago by marky ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Superb piece of engineering ๐Ÿ‘
    Cheers Marky
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    6 days ago by robbob ( Captain)
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    Hi Mike.
    Yet more precision engineering and a concept that should work quite well ๐Ÿ‘.
    Although I have a fear that this is going to turn out to be quite a heavy boat when she's finished ๐Ÿ˜ฎ.
    Rob.

    boat
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    5 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Michael,
    That is some extremely professional Engineering.
    You are truly a master at this sort of work.
    I am really looking forward to seeing these in operation.
    Well done.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    5 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
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    Super bit of engineering Mike.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    5 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    I wonder if a "blimp" would look OK, just to give that bit of extra support๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    4 days ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant)
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    What a beautiful piece of engineering work Mike,๐Ÿ‘
    can I ask what lathe you do your work on.


    Cheers, Pete

    lathe
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    4 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Something like this Mike? ๐Ÿ˜
    Plenty of inspiration here-

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+with+blimp&tbm=isch&sou...

    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+with+blimp&tbm=isch&source=univ&client=firefox-b-d&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj45POA7K7mAhVLExoKHZ8QA6IQ7Al6BAgEECQ&biw=1920&bih=955#imgrc=_
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    3 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Pete, I have a Harrison M300, In the past I ran the Leeds Engineering industry Training Board (EITB). When the industry Boards were "wrecked" and closed by the then government I had the job of selling all the centres assets, so I bought quite a lot of equipment as my job was/is my hobby.

    Doug that looks just the ticket
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    ๐Ÿ“ Scramble nets.
    7 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    I have to thank Rob for his trail blazing manufacture of his nets as it made the process of making mine much easier.
    I have made mine slightly different because early on in the build I decided to made the cabin roofs as flat and not cluttered as possible to make the painting and rubbing down much easier. So my rails that hold the nets to the roof are made to the same dimensions but are fastened to a sub board which can be attached via pre drilled pins at the very end of the build.
    I cut a board to accommodate a 6 x 9 net having a spacing of 23mm squares. I tied the longitudinal ropes (WARP)to the pins and then loaded the home made โ€œneedleโ€ which was made from a piece of 3 mm brass rod with a 2.2 hole drilled in one end to glue the rope into and the other end was machined to a point. Having loaded the needle I tied the end to a pin and started to tread the cross treads (WEFT) going through the warp tread until I had crossed all 6 warp threads and tied off on a pin at this point a dab of super glue sets the joint. This continues on 9 weft treads.
    The net has now to be fastened to the cabin roof rail and the pole at the bottom of the net. This โ€œpoleโ€ is a 3 mm dowel with holes drilled at intervals along its length. The ends are looped through the holes and back through a piece of black shrink sleeve making a secure joint. At the top a similar process of looping around the rail and securing with a piece of black shrink sleeve.finished the 1st scramble net.
    โ€œREPEATโ€ Sorry I forgot to show the board used to tie the warp and weft
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Scramble nets.
    7 days ago by robbob ( Captain)
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    Hi Mike.
    Great idea with the sub-board for the rails, I wish I'd thought of that ๐Ÿค”.
    Nice 'needlework' too.
    Keep up the good work.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Scramble nets.
    7 days ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant)
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    Lovely work Mike, what string did you use?๐Ÿ˜

    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Scramble nets.
    6 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Very nice work Mike.
    That must of taken ages to do.
    You have made an excellent job of it.
    Well done.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Scramble nets.
    6 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Pete, I used Twisted Cord Line Tie String Thread Yarn Fibre Poly Rope Polypropylene PP 2 mm. A bit, of a mouthfull I'm affraid,however it worked fine

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twisted-Cord-Line-Tie-String-Thre...
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twisted-Cord-Line-Tie-String-Thread-Yarn-Fibre-Poly-Rope-Polypropylene-PP-2-mm/172434875952?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Scramble nets.
    6 days ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant)
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    Many thanks for that link Mike, only thing is, they don't do colour brown, which I think would look better, so have ordered black, next best.๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ“ Water system for fire monitors and ECS
    14 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    I have laid out all the various components on a building board, not necessarily in the correct orientation/position. The only thing I do know is that water needs to come out of the 4 pipes pointing into the tin.
    I have a caravan pump serving as a water scoop (to simulate the water pickup as the boat moves forward) any water going through the system into the tin is piped back into the container under the bench where the pump is.
    First thoughts are similar to others in that when the fire monitors are operated the water is drawn back through the exhaust pipes and sucks air. To try and solve this I have put some small solenoid valves in the circuit. But first test show that they restrict the flow too much so a larger valve? Or I think the easiest solution would be to put another entry opening in the hull somewhere near the pump just below the water line on the side mid-ship so the pump can be connected directly and be primed when the boat is at a standstill (anybody see problems with this?) I think the only issue I can see is that when the boats in motion it may force water through the pump โ€“ then the monitor result โ€“ drip, drip. I think a properly designed inlet, that when in motion the tendency is to draw the air out of the system and not force water in until the boat is at a standstill when the water should just flow in. I have designed another outlet (not shown) for the exit of the cooling water and hopefully the smoke which has the water coming out of the centre 6mm pipe and the smoke exits through the surrounding space between the 6mm pipe and the 8mm surrounding hole.
    (Ignore the black pump, top right, it was a first attempt at a water supply, itโ€™s a car washer pump, but not powerful enough)

    boat
    water pickup
    fire monitors
    centre 6mm pipe
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water system for fire monitors and ECS
    14 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    HI,
    My thoughts would be to have the monitors separate from the exhaust system if you have the room for the extra pump.
    Or is there a reason you want to connect it all together ?

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water system for fire monitors and ECS
    13 days ago by Graham93 ( Warrant Officer)
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    Michael,

    Nice to see a clear set up on the bench. Must make it much easier to work on than it will be once it is in the boat.

    I have also found that getting the monitors to work adequately is not as simple as I first thought. Iโ€™m still trying to find a solution. At present the flow from my monitors is quite underwhelming ๐Ÿ˜”. Have you found that the black pump in the bottom centre of your photo gives a good flow? I have just acquired the same model, but it has been too cold to go down to the workshop/shed to try it out.
    Graham93

    monitors
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water system for fire monitors and ECS
    13 days ago by jbkiwi ( Captain)
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    These 12v pumps are pretty good Graham, just tried my one (ex cooling pump from the ST) and it will squirt water 3ft plus from a 3mm pipe. Quite cheap on Ali Express so 1 per monitor would be all you need (or 1 for 2 with say 2mm pipe. Feeds in and out need to be 3mm+ to reduce friction. I ran it on a 3s to try it with a 5mm inlet pipe. If you run it at 12v and you reduce the outlet to 2mm you will probably double the distance. If you decide to try one of these, make sure it is this model with the ribbed front plate shown, as they have a higher output than some others (1.5-2L/min.

    Found these work quite well as air pumps also, just a bit noisier (some advertise them as air pumps and others as water pumps- same thing.
    JB

    pumps
    3mm pipe
    model
    monitor
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water system for fire monitors and ECS
    13 days ago by jbkiwi ( Captain)
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    Hi Mike, how about a couple of pick-ups at the transom (as shown on my HSL), but with one reversed (angle/ chamfer backwards) for the monitor pump which should work as a venturi rather than a pick-up like the other one (for water cooling pump etc) but at slow speed would allow pumping (pump in my reply to Graham is self priming and quite powerful - and cheap enough to buy a few spares๐Ÿ˜Š) You could put say, 3-4mm linear flow solenoids on your monitor lines to open with the monitor pump (or fractionally before to avoid pipe blow-offs, leaks etc)
    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water system for fire monitors and ECS
    13 days ago by G6SWJ ( Leading Seaman)
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    Hi Graham 93,

    These pumps are great - they will self prime.

    I have slowed them down until the motor is about to stall and they still pump/prime with water source 1 meter vertically below pump

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sharplace-Water-Aquarium-Motor-Diap...

    _._
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sharplace-Water-Aquarium-Motor-Diaphragm/dp/B076PM94PX/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=370+Mini+Water+Aquarium+Pump&qid=1575304138&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-4
    ๐Ÿ”—

    pumps
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water system for fire monitors and ECS
    13 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Graham the black pump does in fact provide more than enough water through a 3mm pipe. The pump operates at 6 - 12 volts and at 12v I think its too powerful so at 7.2volt it seems about right. I have also tried modifying the output by inserting small twisted shims fitted down the centre of the pipe this gives the effect of spreading the jet into a more convincing fire jet rather than a simple straight sided jet. Ill try and capture this in a video.

    3mm pipe
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water system for fire monitors and ECS
    13 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    JB believe it or not I have just had delivered the exact same pump today I have yet to try it. The inlet pipe idea is a good one and I am looking at designing somthig similar but to go Mid-ship so as to avoid long pipe runs.
    Martin, I think your correct, a separate system would be better, avoiding any valve requirements and possable starvation of the cooling system, its just the thoght of drilling a hole in my newly painted hull!
    Michael
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water system for fire monitors and ECS
    10 days ago by Graham93 ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi Michael et al,

    This website is strange sometimes. Despite following your blog Michael I didnโ€™t get notifications for any of these recent pump posts so I missed them. Found them by chance today.

    As you may have seen in my latest blog post, Iโ€™ve used the black screen wash pump, on a 3S LiPo and it gives acceptable results. I think the pipework, especially through the body of the monitors, produces quite a resistance to the water flow. Bear in mind that my monitors are 1/16th scale so the passageway bores are that much smaller.

    Graham93

    LiPo
    monitors
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    ๐Ÿ“ Painting continued
    15 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Iโ€™m not going to give details of painting blow by blow as itโ€™s as bad as watching the paint dry and Iโ€™m sure most people are aware of the amount of time the preparations for painting take. So here are a number of pictures of the painting process, sorry miss the red oxide and the deck pictures. The whole boat is now complete with colour and only needs lacquering which will be done after the transfers are applied.

    boat
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting continued
    15 days ago by robbob ( Captain)
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    That's a beautiful finish Mike, it makes all that careful preparation worthwhile ๐Ÿ‘
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting continued
    14 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
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    Superb finish Mike. I just do not have the patience to do that. Perhaps when I retire and have more time.๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting continued
    14 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    That is a fantastic Finnish on the Hull, well worth all the preparation work.
    Excellent workmanship.
    Well done.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting continued
    14 days ago by jbkiwi ( Captain)
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    Very nice Mike!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting continued
    14 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
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    Hello Mike.
    Please could you tell me what paint you use for the red oxide.
    Do you use an air brush for everything
    Thanks.
    Peter.

    air brush
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting continued
    14 days ago by BOATSHED ( Midshipman)
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    That's an awesome finish, I take it you have sprayed it. I never seem to get a great finish like that. Always get a run no matter how careful I do it. So I use a brush and that's a terrible finish I find. Love it๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting continued
    14 days ago by BOATSHED ( Midshipman)
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    Hey, MouldBuilder. I have been retired now for four and a half years. I seemed to have more time for doing things back when I was working. Except decorating the house.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting continued
    14 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Thanks for all the nice comment re the finish. I have to say - yes it does take an awful lot of preparation and to be honest I was also surprised at the final colour finish, it still will be flattened with 1500 wet and dry and then a final gloss lacquer after the transfers are added.
    Peter Red Oxide? is indeed red oxide and for its final finsh it will be lacquered with a satin finish I actually bought it from Halfords (Simoniz acrylic, see picture). For general information all the other paint work is in cellulose which I use a compressor and top fill spray gun similar to the one in the picture. I hope that helps.

    compressor
    spray gun
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting continued
    14 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Mike. That is a great help.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Smoker system
    17 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    I thought I might try the simplest way to produce smoke and just reverse the โ€œvapoursโ€ way of using a standard E cig unit. I was given a couple of units which were no longer needed and decide to modify the unit. I machined an aluminium ring which fitted around the air intake at the bottom; the ring has a groove machined internally to allow the air to circulate around the dual intake. A 4mm drilled hole which is drilled into the groove has a 4mm brass tube inserted. The brass tube connects a small pump via a silicon tube which blows air into the device. The battery pack will have to be modified to fit in the boat but this was just to prove the system. It produces more than enough smoke for my crash tender which will just have a scale amount of exhaust smoke, hopefully. I intend piping the smoke through the rear using a custom made water/smoke exit unit which keeps the two components separate, watch this space
    smoker unit for model boat
    โ–ถ๏ธ

    exit unit
    device
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Smoker system
    16 days ago by jbkiwi ( Captain)
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    Nice idea Mike, I'm assuming you intend using the whole battery unit and tank in the boat? (I'm sure you have plenty of spare room in your model for it) or are you going to run a remote battery using the original connector from the battery module as I'm doing?
    I used the same pumps (2 wired together) to try a smoke unit in my HSL, but even at 2v and all the covers on (the engine bay hatch has 5mm foam soundproofing) the noise is quite loud. What Graham and I have been trying to do is make these virtually silent and compact enough to fit in smaller models which is quite a task, as finding small, quiet readily available powerful air pumps is proving difficult. Graham already has a nice small unit and was lucky to find a decent pump which seems to work very well.

    Making the smoke is the easy part, but getting it to do what you want with no noise, ease of filling and maintenance, be compact and something everyone can build with basic tools and bits from the local hardware shop or LHS (and now by the look of it, vape shops) is the challenge. There are so many ways to go about this idea (quite a few on YT) but it's really great to see people coming up with such really good ideas.

    You might find that once you try to push the smoke/vapour down small tubes for a distance, that a lot of it condenses and not much comes out. I would suggest keeping your smoke tubes as large and short as possible to reduce this. I'll be watching your progress with interest. Eventually we all might combine the ideas and come up with something brilliant.
    JB

    boat
    models
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Smoker system
    16 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Michael,
    I like that idea.
    I am assuming that you would just fill the tank with liquid then screw it in position and it's ready to go.

    Jb's idea of combining all of these ideas to end up with a simple easy to make and fit unit will be fantastic.
    Not only will us model makers benefit from it so will the Vape shops LOL!


    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Smoker system
    15 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    I think I will dismantle the battery unit as it is very heavy, the batteries weigh about 70 grams and the case is 150 grams so I am going to dismantle it and house it some other way, Its usefull to keep the electronics as you can vary the power output therefore the amount of smoke to a point where the boat would dissapear in a cloud of smoke.

    batteries
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Smoker system
    14 days ago by jbkiwi ( Captain)
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    That's what I've done with my latest smoker effort Mike, but just using the battery base plate to screw everything into and doing away with the fancy electronics. I think now's the time to start collecting old vape machine parts, (especially the screw in battery and tank bases etc) for future projects, while they can still be acquired free ? I'm lucky having 2 new vape shops just up the road to scrounge bits from.
    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Smoker system
    14 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    JB your exactly right, I got mine from a friend who over time had worked his way through a number of machines until he found his comfort zone (machine) so I was the beneficiary of all the discarded ones most of which are very little used if at all. However as you say work to be done on silencing the pump unit, I have another pump on order to try, I post the results of it and the electrical bit.

    machine
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    ๐Ÿ“ Fire Monitors final fitting
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Having trialled the various options for rotating the monitors I have decided to use the gears option. I am going to mount the servo in the roof. The cabin roofs have bridge pieces which are just about correct to mount some aluminium bars on which will carry the servo
    I have reinforced the inside of the roof where the base of the monitors fit as the roof is only made from 1/32โ€ ply, I use an aluminium disc - 25mm dia x 1mm thick . The monitor bases are fastened using three 8BA csk screws and nuts.
    (I must say at this point that people may wonder why I use BA nuts, bolts and screws and not metric, itโ€™s because I have a good range of all BA taps and dies)
    The aluminium bars are slotted to take the servo and allow for adjustment and again fastened using 8BA hex hd screws and the bars are attached to the roof again using 8BA screws and into the wood! (I have successfully used machine threads into wood of all sizes, this requires the wood area to be treated, I use a RONSEAL product that is for treating rotten wood, itโ€™s a very viscous liquid and soaks into the wood and after an hour or so it goes rock hard the tapped holes can then be clean up with a tap) I can adjust the fit of the gears to give a nice smooth rotation; all that needs to be done now is to design the water system.

    product
    monitors
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors final fitting
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice one Michael ๐Ÿ‘
    I came to the same conclusion with the gun turrets on my H class destroyer.
    Primary drive is geared, secondary drive (e.g. X to Y turret) is pulley and cord.
    During the current refit I will probably change that to belt-chain drive, tank style, cos the cord tended to slip and the turrets got out of synch - until Y turret barrel crashed into the aft cabin / gun platform ๐Ÿค”
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž

    gun
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors final fitting
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Michael,
    I think you have chosen to go with the best option.
    Less chance of something braking,
    Nice work.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors final fitting
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Doug to stop any slippage try wrapping the cord around each pully once this gives 360 degrees grip on the pullys worth a try before making any major changes, if you look at the cord and spring option the fishing line goes twice round the pully,
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors final fitting
    25 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
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    That is very interesting about threading wood. I think a lot of us have learnt something there. Thanks Mike.๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors final fitting
    17 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Thanks Mike,
    That's how I originally built it. That slipped as well.
    Then I found that green silico rubber like 'stuff', which can be easily cut to length and the ends glued with cyano. That worked OK, for a while, then started to slip. Maybe I'll have to rough up the small brass driving pulleys on X and Y turrets?
    "I think I'd better think it out again!"
    Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž

    pulleys
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    ๐Ÿ“ Fire Monitors Part 3
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Having created the โ€œrotatingโ€ monitors I have to deal with the rotation mechanism and since the design requires the central tube to rotate I have a few different options to consider, they include:-
    1 solid rod drive
    2 Belt driven
    3 cord driven
    4 modified servo
    5 gear driven
    Having looked at the rotation of a standard servo which appears to be about 170 degrees, if I want to have something in the order of 300/360 degrees there will have to be some sort of increase in end movement.
    Option 1- rod driven although very controllable itโ€™s limited to about 170 degrees otherwise it gets locked at either end of the cycle.

    Option 2 - Belt driven needed a couple of pulleys machined up this meant the large pulley was 50 mm dia and the small one was 10mm dia. The drive belt was an โ€œOโ€ ring. This option works very well and could be a possibility.

    Option 3 - Cord driven this system is simply a cord running from the servo arms round a 10mm pulley twice (to give some grip) but between the servo arm and cord is a spring to give some tension in the cord, again could be a possibility

    Option 4 โ€“ a servo modification (addition of resisters) servo this has already been shown by Graham and although an easy option for an electronics engineer a bit more difficult for me, but achievable. However for my configuration itโ€™s not suitable as I canโ€™t drive onto the end face of the rotating tube.

    Option 5 โ€“ Gear driven would need a pair of gears at a ratio of 10 teeth to 50 teeth and some modification to a gear to fit on the servo. This was the last option to be tried and looks as if it may be the best option. The rotation of 360 may be OK but from a practical point of view I donโ€™t need water spraying over the cockpit or front deck. So I decided to change the gear ratio to 30:10 this gives a rotation of about 280 degrees which I think gives a good spread of spray (see top view of deck).
    All the prototypes were built on scraps of ply and with an old servo. Having proved my system; I will now build it into the cabin roof in such a way that the gear ratios can be changed if required.

    gear
    pulley
    spray
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 3
    2 months ago by Graham93 ( Warrant Officer)
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    Michael,

    Good range of options there. Nice to see them as prototypes. (I canโ€™t get the videos to play)

    Graham93
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 3
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Mike,
    All of your experiment work fine.
    I agree with you that using the gears definitely seem the best way to go.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 3
    2 months ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Michael, would love to see the videos, but I am having problems also playing them.๐Ÿ˜

    Cheers, Peter
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 3
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Captain)
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    To view the videos, click on the media file, click small arrow (in square) at top left (it will down load) check your download file for the video.
    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 3
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Captain)
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    The gears look a good option Mike, you could use your TX for speed and end stop adjustments (If you have that option) rather than muck around with gearing.
    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 3
    2 months ago by Graham93 ( Warrant Officer)
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    JB,

    I did click the button to download the video, but it wouldn't play. Seems the problem is it won't play on my iPad. I have found it will download and play on a Windows PC

    Graham93

    PC
    Windows
    iPad.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 3
    2 months ago by figtree7nts ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Michael,

    I got a chance to view your Videos.
    It's very impressive work!

    I like Option 2!
    It's just you would have to have a way to get to the pulley! In case the pulley would snap!

    On the other hand Option 5!
    Sounds the best of all!

    Keep up the good work!

    Cheers, Ed

    Hi all I downloaded Media player Codec Pack!
    Version: 4.5.4
    Use their viewer and you can see the videos!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 3
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Graham93,
    I had the same problem some time ago.
    Some videos work and some do not.
    So I watch on my laptop now.

    Martin555.

    laptop
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 3
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    jbkiwi, the gearing is essential in that I can't connect directly to the end of the shaft as thats where the water connects, so even if I did alter the servo the rotation will still have to be transfered by gears, pulley or cord etc

    pulley
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 3
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
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    I think all of the solutions look good but the best does look to be the geared version. Really like the prototype setups.

    version
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 3
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi mturpin013,
    You are truly dedicated I am truly impressed, making 3 working prototypes, keep up the great work.
    Cheers, Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Fire Monitors Part 2
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Some thought has to be given how to hold all these remaining parts, firstly I need to make sure that I can replicate an upward incline since there wonโ€™t be any up and down movement, only rotation.
    Here comes another jig, a simple block of ยฝ inch hardwood with the angle cut at 200 and the corner removed to allow all the soldering to take place.
    Carefully marking out a centre line I used small brass pins to hold the pre silver soldered pipes in position on the flat sides. I now used some clamps to hold the brass pipes in place, check all the alignments then flux is applied.
    Very gently apply the heat with a soldering iron until the solder flows, itโ€™s important to tack both ends of each pipe first on each side as at this stage the set-up is delicate to say the least and can be dislodged very easily. Then follow round to complete the joints making sure you donโ€™t overheat the whole assembly and melting the parts already soldered.
    Next I need to test for leakage, if all OK I can carry on to fettle the joints, I donโ€™t use files or abrasive paper to do this I only use a scalpel to remove any excess solder itโ€™s so easy and better results are achieved.
    This also applies to cleaning up the white metal fittings; the main posts need to have a better base with some sort of fastening arrangement made, so an aluminium piece is machined up with three holes for fastening to the roof, this was then epoxied to the main post.
    The next job is to make the handles, for this I used some 3mm plate which I cut some slices off with a slitting saw. In its raw state it is hard and needs annealing before bending.
    The pieces were all cut to length and then drilled in a jig to ensure all the pieces were exactly the same, I can now leave a drill in both the end holes which keeps the pieces together while they are placed in the machine vice with a piece of round bar at the back to give a nice radius.
    The handles need a cross bar with โ€œknobs onโ€ so a little bit of machining and then the assembly can be done.
    The handles are soft soldered in place at the correct distance; I now need to drill and tap 10 BA the main body pipes to hold the handles in place. When these are assembled they will be put together with some epoxy on the screws and between the faces.
    Whilst using the epoxy I can glue the white metal exit pipe in place, this now completes the assembly.
    Next a coat of etch primer followed by a coat of grey primer then finally bright red, these will be left to fully dry before I attempt looking at the rotary system

    brass pipes
    plate
    body pipes
    cross bar
    primer
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 2
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    You have done an excellent job, very nicely made, they look fantastic .
    well done.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 2
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi mturpin013,
    Exemplary workmanship, truly impressive.
    Cheers, Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Fire Monitors Part 1
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    The white metal items supplied are OK but really donโ€˜t lend themselves to being working items. Graham93 has already completed a version which looks just like the drawing and photos available, and are the best Iโ€™ve seen. The bar has been set so here goes, whenever an item like this is been contemplated itโ€™s always good to spend some time in planning a sequence of operations and assessing the problem areaโ€™s at the start of the work and if possible dealing with these parts first. Failure of the difficult process doesnโ€™t mean you have wasted work on other parts that are now scrap.
    I think the most difficult and problematic piece is the pipework that sits at the top and curves round in two halves, this in reality is a casting, however replicating it can be done using brass pipe. Brass pipe can be purchased in annealed form; however my stock wasnโ€™t so the first job was to anneal the tube.
    Heating to a dull red heat and allowed to cool, this treatment will soften the metal completely. In some books it is suggested that the brass should be quenched in water (which is what I do) after heating but this is to speed up the commercial process, and quenching has no effect on the annealing process. So tube annealed we need some method of retaining its tubular form during bending, in plumbing I use a spring but when you compare wall thickness/dia a spring would have to be mighty strong and so small.
    An easy alternative is to crimp one end of the tube and put some soldering flux down the tube, follow this by heating with a low temperature blow torch to melt solder and fill the tube, then allow to cool.
    You now have a soft tube which when bent will hold its shape. Thatโ€™s the next challenge, the shape, and being able to replicate it twice, so an easy jig is required.
    Having marked out a scrap piece of hardwood I cut the โ€œUโ€ shape using the band saw and filled a groove along the top edge, this was then placed under my drill press with the appropriate dia bar (this must be calculated accurately as it helps to create the final form) on top of the tube, then just pull gently down (it takes very little force) this jig leave a small amount to finish bend to a complete a circle, the excess length is trimmed off and then I used a piece of hard wood with a small radius on the end to tap the final curve.
    Next the circle needs to be cut into two pieces I used a small slitting saw in the milling machine. Now itโ€™s time to remove the solder, simply heat up holding in plyers and then shake vigorously to expel the solder. (Make sure you do this on your own and wear safety glasses.)
    The white metal โ€œmain pillar fittingโ€ and the monitors final โ€œexit pipeโ€ will be used in the unit and all that is required is to mount them in the lathe and drill a 4mm hole through each and clean up the casting. Next I cut 4 pieces of 4mm brass pipe; these will form the main water passage. Two more machine turned items are the โ€œpivot post topโ€ that feeds water through the 2 brass pipes into the โ€œjunction blockโ€ which then feeds into the exit pipe, sounds all very simple?
    Having made all the components, itโ€™s time to think about fastening them all together. First items to be joined are the โ€œupstand pipeโ€ to the โ€œpivot post topโ€ X 2 also the โ€œfeed to exit pipeโ€ and the โ€œjunction blockโ€ X 2, these four joints are all to be silver soldered.
    I mounted them in a piece of wood and placed a tight spring brass ring around the upright pipe to stop then sliding down when heated. Having the joints spotlessly clean is paramount, the flux is added, I insert very small pieces of silver solder into the holes at the top cross holes (less is more) a gentle heat, and watch as the flux goes โ€œglassyโ€, this is closely followed by the solder melting, watching at the lowest point of the joint for the tell-tale shinny liquid metal.
    No fettling is required so the 4 parts are dipped for 45 minutes in masonry brick cleaner (dilute hydrochloric acid) the parts are now clean and ready for the next soldering activity. See part 2

    version
    milling machine
    brass pipes
    masonry brick cleaner
    machine
    lathe
    monitors
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 1
    2 months ago by Graham93 ( Warrant Officer)
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    Mike,

    Looking good. I agree, bending the tubes is probably the most difficult part. I like your elegant solution with the solder filled tube. Much better than my brute force attempt. I used annealed copper tube and an external bending spring, but if I put enough of a bend in the tube, I couldnโ€™t remove the spring! Iโ€™ll remember the solder trick for any future attempts.
    Graham93
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 1
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    I would never of thought about filling the tube with lead.
    very cleaver, i must remember that.
    The white metal parts don't look out of place at all, and when painted you would not know.
    nice workmanship.
    well done.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 1
    2 months ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant)
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    Another option Mike, that I have used for bending hollow tubes in brass or copper, is to block one end off with putty or like, then fill nearly to the top with water. leave a little space for air, then seal again, pop into the freezer for an hour or so, the bend the required shape,then into hot water after removing putty, and one un-kinked bend!๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers, Peter (Rooky)

    freezer
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 1
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Always something to learn no mater how long you've been at it, and I've been at it for a long time!
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    ๐Ÿ“ Painting
    3 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Trying to juggle refit of the new workshop with keeping the build going so did a first primmer coat on the whole boat, looks good and As Im away on holiday next 2 weeks it wil give it time to harden off so any minor defects can be seen to before final pimer coat , and then some colour.
    Sorry about poor quality pictures, I am working on a very old computer and don't have any picture editing facilities. (my computer totally failed and Im awaiting a new delivery so maybe off line for a while)

    boat
    computer
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Looking good,well done.
    Enjoy your holiday.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    3 months ago by robbob ( Captain)
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    Hi Mike.
    Good to see the boat is getting some paint at last.... don't rush it, remember getting a good finish is 90% preparation and 10% application.
    And going on holiday is better than watching paint dry ๐Ÿ˜.
    Enjoy your break.
    Rob.

    boat
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    3 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Absolutely Rob๐Ÿ‘
    The secret ingredient is patience - buckets of it๐Ÿ˜‰
    Dunno though, watching paint dry could be quite relaxing ๐Ÿ˜
    Happy hols Mike โ˜€๏ธ
    Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
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    The masking must be very difficult especially considering all that wood detail you have had to protect.
    Looking really good.
    Happy holidays.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    3 months ago by stevedownunder ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi mturpin,
    Well done, working on a boat whilst doing a workshop refit, you are doing better than me, I struggle with one task at a time.
    Enjoy your break. ๐Ÿ˜€

    Cheers,
    Stephen.

    boat
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