|||
Current Website Support
75
Contributors
6
Subscribers
You are Not Registered
Donate for your silver medal ๐Ÿ…
ยฃ10
ยฃ15
ยฃ25
ยฃ50
Subscribe for your gold medal ๐Ÿ…
ยฃ1
ยฃ3
ยฃ5
ยฃ10
You Will Be Helping Towards:

  • Domain Fees
  • Security Certificates
  • iOS & Android App Fees
  • Website Hosting
  • Fast Servers
  • Data Backups
  • Upkeep & Maintenance
  • Administration Costs

    Without your support the website wouldn't be what it is today.

    Please consider donating towards these fees to help keep us afloat.

    Read more

    All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

    Many thanks for your kind support
  • Join Us On Social Media!
    Model Boats Website
    Model Boats Website
    Home
    Forum
    Build Blogs
    Media Gallery
    Boat Clubs & Lakes
    Events
    Boat Harbour
    How-To Articles
    Plans & Docs
    Useful Links
    32

















    Followers
    The Vosper 46โ€ RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works
    by mturpin013 ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










    Click To
    Follow
    75 Posts 274 Comments 402 Photos 625 Likes
    Most recent posts shown first   (Show Oldest First) (Print Booklet)
    ๐Ÿ“ Final prop installation
    3 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    View All
    The prop shaft was fitted during the initial build and lined up with the motor as close as possible however the final fitting takes a little more time. The first obstacle to overcome is the brass propeller I purchased has a 4 mm thread and the shaft is a 5 mm thread. Because of the shape of a propeller it is impossible to hold it in a tree jaw chuck or indeed the collets, this means that a jig has to be designed in order that the propeller can be held in a three jaw chuck perfectly true. The jig is quite difficult to descried but it has to fit around the parallel part of the prop (which is only between the blades), and to ensure concentricity the point of the prop also needs to be supported. Now secure and running perfectly true the new thread can be machined. To increase the hole size it canโ€™t be drilled out using a normal drill, this is because the drill will be pushed off centre by the uneven cutting of the existing 4mm thread, so the hole is enlarged using a stub flat bottom drill, or a slot drill this will ensure the hole is machined true. The thread can now be cut in the newly machined hole.
    The motor and shaft can now be aligned; initial alignment is done by a solid brass connecter which is then replaced by the flexible coupling. Because the motor mount is made of wood supported by wood and a prop shaft mounted in wood, a final tweak can be made with the motor running and observing the โ€œnoteโ€ of the motor which will alter when the best alignment is achieved
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    5
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Final prop installation
    1 day ago by Joe727 ( Warrant Officer)
    Flag
    Mturpin,
    Very nice jig, I will keep that in mind if I need to hold props on my lathe.

    Recently I have been thinking about making props, just a thought at this point.
    Joe
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Back to smokers (again)
    12 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    View All
    I have been looking at all sorts of alternative smoking devices and have now come to a system that I think will work for me. I purchased a vaping device which I felt would be a self-contained unit , easily charge easily replenished and would work for a long enough period for a dayโ€™s sailing. The system comprises of :-

    1 An ecig devise - Smok Stick V8 Kit
    2 A water pump โ€“Dosing Pump Mini Peristaltic Self-Priming
    3 An air pump DC 5V 6V Mini 370 Motor Air Pump Vacuum Pump Self-Priming
    The e cig required some modification in that I needed it to work by a simple switch action that could be incorporated in an electronic circuit rather than the push button on the side of the unit. So I decided to dismantle the unit with some help from You tube the end caps are a push fit in the end of the tube and they are a tight fit. The guy in the video attacks the unit with a rather large hammer, I took a more gentile approach and mounted it in the lathe collects and gently wiggled it loose. This seems simple but it took an hour to release it. Having got the internals out I could see the on/off switch which was part of a circuit board and had tiny soldered joints. Using the multi-meter I determined the terminals that switched on/off and using a big, big, magnifying glass and a modified soldering iron tip I was able to attach two wires. I drilled a small hole in the base and fed the wires through then refitted the end caps, the unit can now be operated either by the button or just connecting the two wires.
    I now need an electronic devise to switch the components on/off at varying periods, this is where my electronics expertise comes in โ€“ โ€œcall a friendโ€ Graham93 Warrant Officer another member on the site had offered to help me out so I gave him details of my requirements which was :-

    An E cig device which requires switching on/off pulsed at 3 sec on and 3 seconds off this also needs, at the same time to switch the water pump & air pump on/off at 1sec before the ecig and stay on for 4 Sec and off at the same time. However Graham said he could make the timingsโ€™ variable which meant that with experiments I could make the devise work to optimum safety and look realistic. The starting point for timings was:-

    See table (table wouldn't reproduce in the text Pic 3)

    The device was delivered after a week and it also came with a two page instruction manual, so I wasted no time in testing it, albeit out of the boat and it worked perfectly, at this point I didnโ€™t have the final pump unit. So I then started to fit all the parts into the boat which will let me try it in the bath!

    Many thanks to Graham for his contribution to this smoker, It has really performed well.
    Ecig smoker
    โ–ถ๏ธ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    8
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smokers (again)
    12 days ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Looking at the video is the long puff for the initial engine bursting in to life and the shorter puffs for the puffing of each cylinder.?
    If so then may i suggest a lot more shorter puffs.
    I have probably got this totally wrong as usual.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smokers (again)
    12 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    Looks very good.
    All of my boats will have Catalytic converters as I was always told not to smoke.๐Ÿ˜Š
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smokers (again)
    11 days ago by Graham93 ( Warrant Officer)
    Flag
    Michael,

    Looking good. Glad I could help. Canโ€™t wait to see the completed model on its maiden.
    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smokers (again)
    5 days ago by Joe727 ( Warrant Officer)
    Flag
    Very nice, clean work!
    Joe
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Electrics continued
    18 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    View All
    Electrics continued
    The size of the electrical requirements for this vessel seems to be mirroring the real thing.
    I need to finish the assembly of the front cabin roof so I can run the wiring harness through the cabin interior before I finally fit all the flooring and control panel. This also means that the cabin lighting has to be fitted as well, these are the imitation strip lights I made earlier, there are 3 in the front cabin, 4 in the mid cabin, and 4 in the rear cabin. The wires all pass through the pre drilled holes and hopefully will be all hidden under the Port and Starboard sides of the boat, they then go into the box containing the circuit board. The pump for the fire monitors needs wiring, and the Turnigy switching device installing to allow the water to be switched on/off from the T/X. Leads will be made up to go from the receiver to the two fire monitor servos. The power for the lights is from a 6V 2500ah battery which will also power the pump for the fire monitors.

    First to finish is the wiring in the front cabin roof, I have worked out that I need to bring 8 wires from the roof down into the front cabin and then back to the control box and the spotlight rotation servo lead back to the transmitter (you may remember that the roof is on a hinge system and lifts up). I have used an 8 pin JST Lipo Balance Lead Cable Plug Sets which is quite small enough to be unobtrusive. All the wires come to a socket which is mounted in the sliding cabin recess. The 8 wire leads then goes down to another socket which is mounted above the centre window where the wires continue down two tubes mounted in the window frame and exiting in the front bulkhead space, they can now travel down the side of the boat and exit to the control box and receiver.

    Next to complete are the cabin lights, all wires are brought back to the control box and separated into 3 plugs, (front cabin - mid cabin - rear cabin) the filaments are very delicate and need protecting. I used some 0.5 mm polycarbonate sheet. Time for another jig, I used a 5mm steel bar fastened to a piece of 5mm x 10mm wood, this needed to have a mating slotted piece to create the cover. I cut some 20mm strips. 150mm long these were heated with a hot air gun and then it was pressed into the jig, the covers were trimmed to length and then fitted to the light fitting with canopy glue.

    The last to be wired are the tow light, the navigation lights and the front cabin โ€œdash boardโ€ lights (which are 6v), The tow light and navigation lights are wired straight to a terminal in the power box and the dash lights are wired through another switch and back to the 6v battery.
    Each of the sets of lights were checked as they were installed and so far all worked as expected, so now all the wires are tucked away in the under deck space.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    6
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrics continued
    18 days ago by robbob ( Captain)
    Flag
    Coming along really well Mike.
    I'm looking forward to seeing the completed control panel, it's something that I couldn't model because I had not made provision for access to the forward cabin. Your approach is very well thought through.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrics continued
    18 days ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Very nice work Mike,
    You have thought about this a lot and it is well worth all the effort.
    Looking forward to seeing the end results.
    Well done.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrics continued
    18 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    Very impressive Mike. You have managed to squeeze a lot into that small enclosure.
    Do you think a maiden voyage is on this Spring or Summer?
    Looking forward to see it perform especially in dim light.๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Electrics for the lighting
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    View All
    Following Robs great design I made a start on my own version of a circuit board for my lighting requirements, I have the following lighting requirements:-
    1. Spot light
    2. Blue light
    3. Mast light
    4. Port/starboard lights
    5. Instrument lights
    6. Front cabin lights
    7. Sick bay lights
    8. Engine bay lights
    9. Towing light

    I wanted to keep everything neat and tidy so I had a plastic project box doing nothing which was just the right size. I have 1 dedicated spot light Molex connector with a large current limiting resistor and then one specifically for the blue cabin forward light and finally there are 5 connectors that are for smaller LEDs. I have 2 Turnigy switches, one is for the spot light and the other switches all the other lights. I like the circuit board Rob designed because it I like the idea of being able to take out each individual lighting circuit should it be required. The only lighting I havenโ€™t previously covered are the cabin lights, I thought that something imitating a tubular light might look nice, so using the LED filaments from garden lights I designed a fitting for all the cabins, taking a length of square plastic tube I made a small jig that would allow me to file a recess in the tube to allow the LED to be visible, each of the LEDs had wires attached and then the whole assembly was fed into the tube. When in position I secured them using canopy glue squirted down the ends. The fittings will be glued in position at a later stage.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    10
    10
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrics for the lighting
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Nice work.
    I am looking forward to seeing the end result.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrics for the lighting
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Good one Mike๐Ÿ‘
    For the wheelhouse lighting of my tug, I was thinking of simulating a fluorescent lamp using a long oblong of perspex with 3mm LEDs fitted in the ends.
    Or possibly the tiny SMD LEDs in a groove along the back.
    I'll 'Taste and Try Before I Buy'๐Ÿ˜‰
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrics for the lighting
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Doug,
    Ref;- I was thinking of simulating a fluorescent lamp using a long oblong of perspex with 3mm LEDs fitted in the ends.
    I have tried this and my effort was not that successful, It lit up both ends but was quite dim in the middle.Not quite like a fluorescent tube.
    Also tried SMD led's but it only lit up were the LED was.
    Maybe i should of done more experiments.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrics for the lighting
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Yes that's what's concerning me Martin.
    I was wondering if milling out the back, to make it hollow like a real one, and then Sandpapering the outside would help diffuse the light a bit.
    We'll see.
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    Sorry Mike ๐Ÿ™„ Threadjacking again๐Ÿ˜Œ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrics for the lighting
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    Looking forward to seeing these complete. I use the small enclosures also but nearly always run out of space.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrics for the lighting
    2 months ago by robbob ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi Mike.
    The led filaments are a great idea for simulating striplights. Where did you get them from or what sort of garden light did you remove them from?
    Edge lighting by internal refraction or reflection works well for signage but needs a special type of diffusing acrylic to disperse the light, I think what you have done is far better and will give a strong and even 'linear' lighting appearance.
    I'm looking forward to seeing them in action too.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrics for the lighting
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Worth a try Doug.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrics for the lighting
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    Rob the filaments are from a solar garden light from B&Q remove the end cap as if you were switching it on and unscrew the end and cut the wires. If you then heat the plastic neck with a heat gun then "twist" the end comes off. Be careful not to knock the filaments as you withdraw them. before you cut them free note + & - the positive is the end with a tiny hole in the flat metal end.
    A point to mention when soldering new wires on is to use a pair of small pliers and cutters to remove excess wires, then a pair of normally sprung closed tweezers to act as a heat sink whilst soldering the joint and generally be very very careful handling them as the can't be bent at all.
    I did find some on ebay but they were only 25mm long, however make sure you get the 3 volt ones and not the more generally available 70 volt ones used in domestic light bulbs
    https://www.diy.com/departments/clear-bulb-solar-powered-led-external-hanging-light/3663602430971_BQ.prd
    ๐Ÿ”—
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrics for the lighting
    2 months ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    Brilliant Mike, how did you find out about these, seen them many times in B&Q but never thought of using them like you did,I wish I had your ingenuity๐Ÿ‘

    Cheers, Pete
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrics for the lighting
    1 month ago by stevedownunder ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
    Flag
    Hi mturpin013,
    As usual exemplary workmanship, your flro lights look great, very neat inside the plastic project box though i fear things may get a little crowded inside once all the wires are in. Keep up the great work.
    Cheers,
    Stephen.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Additional water supply for monitors (part two)
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    View All
    Itโ€™s time to finish some part completed jobs so having put an intake in the forward bulk head area I have now found that the pump (a 6v Graupner look alike apparently) was not as reliable as it is supposed to be despite being expensive, it didnโ€™t start up every time. After taking the motor housing apart, there didnโ€™t appear to be anything wrong with its internals, other than being a mass produced brushed motor made to not too exacting tolerances. So I decided to by a โ€œrealโ€ Graupner 6V pump which seemed to be a better manufactured pump. The only issue I had with it was in the description it says it must have the inlet below the water line but looking at the configuration/design of the pump the inlet and outlet are on the top of the pump!
    So a little re-engineering required, I made an alternative bracket which puts the inlet and outlet at the bottom making it easier to place the inlet below the waterline. Next a platform for mounting the new pump which needed to be epoxied into the hull, this was simply fabricated from some scrap plywood and epoxied into the hull. The base of the new bracket was lined with a 1.5 mm layer of vibration absorbing material. The bracket is held down with two bolts, via a treaded 2ba brass stud epoxied into the keel. The tubing can now be routed around the hull to a secure jointing position 1 in the forward sick bay and the other in the engine room.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    5
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Additional water supply for monitors (part two)
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Pic sequence back to front again๐Ÿค”
    Not easy I know, you can never be quite sure where what will appear!
    New readers; start with the last pic and work forward, Chinese fashion๐Ÿ˜

    Nicely done Mike,
    And very considerate of you to arrange central heating for downed aircrew in the sick bay๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜‰
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Additional water supply for monitors (part two)
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    Hi Doug, well spotted I have tried all sorts to get the order correct but it always beats me. Ill try harder next time๐Ÿค”
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Additional water supply for monitors (part two)
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Mike,
    For some peculiar reason it seems that in the Editing window the pics appear in the reverse order to that which they finally appear in the post!
    Which means that the one you 'Select' first appears last in the post๐Ÿ˜ 
    So when we select pics we have to think Chinese!
    Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Wiring
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    View All
    Now this although interesting is quite a challenge for me which Iโ€™m really looking forward to as Iโ€™m a mechanical engineer and electrical /electronic is another skill to be mastered (to a degree) however at this point itโ€™s all a bit smoke and mirrors, however here goes. Fortunately Rob has laid a well-defined path that I intend to follow with some minor differences due to different equipment. I first made a start on the control system for the battery charging and power supply to the ESC / motor, this was to be a copy of Robโ€™s design which seemed to be superbly fit for purpose. I first made the support platform from some 6mm black Perspex and fitted all the components onto it. Then using the 12 swg silicon wire I proceeded to cut, form, tin, solder, etc. all the joints. At this point I asked myself how many times did Rob forget to put a piece of heat shrink in the appropriate place before soldering the joint, (I lost count) then finally I placed a few tie wraps in place to neaten up the whole assembly. I have made a bracket to hold both the amp meter and the receiver in place. The receiver I have mounted at 45 degrees /horizontally so that the plugs are easily placed in position.
    (next a bit of Vero Board)
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    8
    6
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Wiring
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Mike,
    Nice job.๐Ÿ‘
    Re heat shrink: I worked in electronics for over 40 years and still sometimes forget to fit the sleeve in time!๐Ÿ˜  So don't worry, you're not alone ๐Ÿ˜‰
    Only snag I found with shrink sleeves all over the shop is when it comes to testing/trouble shooting the set up. Thanks to the sleeving you ain't got no where to stick the meter probes. (Keep it clean lads!!๐Ÿ˜ฎ) Unless the probes have very sharp points.
    You mention Veroboard; I often use that to make a simple switching/distribution board and build in a few test points to overcome a.m. problem.
    Great work Mike, looking forward to the next instalment and especially the Trials vid๐Ÿ‘
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Wiring
    2 months ago by robbob ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi Mike.
    Very neat work ๐Ÿ‘
    In answer to you question....yes...many times โ˜น๏ธ
    Even worse is soldering up a 48 pin multicore audio connector with H/S on all the pins only to realise that you forgot to fit the casing over the cable first and the other end is already terminated....damn it๐Ÿ˜ ...start again๐Ÿ˜ญ
    And before the days of ty-wraps we used Hellerman sleeves with a lubricant and an expander tool(that was also known by a very un-pc name ๐Ÿ˜ฎ) to keep wiring looms tidy, and even prior to that I was taught as a GPO engineer to do 'lacing' with waxed twine.
    Now that's something that will try your patience!!
    Great work as always Mike ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    PS. What's the bracket with the two large holes for, more XT60 sockets perhaps ??
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Wiring
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    "I was taught as a GPO engineer to do 'lacing' with waxed twine. Now that's something that will try your patience!!"
    You are sooooo right Rob๐Ÿ‘
    Had the same experience working as a subcontractor assembling and testing all sorts of things from oscilloscopes (some were used in the instrument packs for the Open University electronics courses) to miniature 'walkie talkies'.
    I still have a large roll of the waxed stuff, comes in handy sometimes๐Ÿ˜Š
    Remember the Hellerman sleeves as well. Think I still have the 3 pronged expander and half a bottle (brown glass) of the lubricant somewhere in the cellar as well ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    Brought back some old memories๐Ÿ˜‰
    Now, what the heck was it I just thought of that I wanted to do next?๐Ÿค”๐Ÿ˜ญ
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Wiring
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    I too have a tree prong expander tool that I used many years ago when I was involved in the early development of fiber optics, it comes in occasionally when the heat shrink is shrunk by the heat from the soldering iron๐Ÿ˜ 
    The bracket with 2 holes is for the amp meter which is somewhat larger than the one you used and has air vents underneath.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Wiring
    2 months ago by tugboatcliff ( Recruit)
    Flag
    ref HELLERMAN SLEEVES ETC HELLERINE OIL AND PRONGED TOOL ,AFTER MY RAF JOB 12YRS(COOK) I CHANGED TRADES STORES IN AVIATION (HELICOPTERS) I still use hellerine oil for helping Heatshrink onto tight cables and still have roll of waxed string ,I learnt a lot from avionics engineers
    Cheers,tugboatcliffโ›ต
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Wiring
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Yeees! Of course! That's the stuff; HELLERINE OIL!!
    Thanks for putting my memory out it's misery Cliff๐Ÿ‘
    Great for all sleeving, not just the heat shrink, also grommets.
    Got mine from Dad.
    He was Avionics Bay CO at Marham on the Victor tankers.๐Ÿ˜‰
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    PS Can we see your tugboats in your Harbour please?
    There are several tugboat enthusiasts here.
    Not least Vice Admiral Ed๐Ÿ˜‰
    Don't be afraid of his rank - he won't bite ๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Back to the plan
    3 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    View All
    Iโ€™ve been pulled away from my original plan and spent too much time on smoke machines and spinning water monitors that Iโ€™ve neglected to finish the hull. The basic painting of colour is done and now only needs lacquering. Before I started applying the livery I gave the hull a light rub down with 1500 wet & dry to get rid of any pips and to give a sound surface for the final coat of lacquer and give a sound base for the livery.
    I took on board a comment that Rob made about the use of the โ€œwater slideโ€ transfers supplied, in that the depth of white pigment in the transfers made them look slightly dull, and with the trial I found the transfers were also delicate to say the least. I decided to go ahead with the vinyl alternative because if applied carefully and correctly they will look nice enough.
    The process was first to cut out the block of vinyl that carried the FIRE text, followed then by cutting the individual letters out but leaving the waste as a frame for positioning the letters on the hull. So marking out the position of the โ€œEโ€ on the side of the hull and measuring the obligatory 3 TIMES then marking this on a piece of masking tape (at this point I left the job alone for a couple of days, the relevance of which will be seen later), the frame was then taped in position and the letters applied in the appropriate position and lightly pressed down using a finger and pressing from the middle of each letter to make sure all the air was expelled.
    At this Point while I had the boat on its side I started to apply the water line starting at the bow and working backwards, I managed to apply it over the chine without any problems apart from the tape not sticking on such tight corners, however persistence paid off and pressing the line repeatedly back in position the line seems to have stuck fast. I managed to work the line around the hull in one piece finishing back at the bow.
    So now to remove the frame, โ€œOh dearโ€ or words to that effect, before the final pressing home of the vinyl I realised to my horror that the word FIRE was too far forward , I had placed the frame with the letter line on the wrong side of the โ€œEโ€. Note donโ€™t leave a job half way through.
    I decided to remove the letters which were unusable and contact Mike Cummings to see if he could supply another set. Unfortunately he hadnโ€™t any stock, and was waiting for new ones to be made, so an alternative was sought, I went to my local model shop and purchased some very lightweight vinyl covering called โ€œORATRIM white. On measuring the two vinylโ€™s, the supplied material was 0.0023โ€ thou thick and the new material was only 0.0001โ€ thou which would be better on the hull surface. I cut a set of letters and went through the same application process as before (right side of the line) and on closer inspection I found the new material was a better, brighter white and felt better on the hull. Another plus was the fact that the original vinyl was printed on so in fact wasnโ€™t solid white vinyl and as such was very delicate when pressing down and liable to scratching the white off. The new material was solid vinyl and as such is much more durable and Iโ€™m very pleased with the results.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    9
    8
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to the plan
    3 months ago by robbob ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi Mike.
    As you know, I had some minor disasters when lettering and lining my boat and I found that the vinyl ones are so much better than the waterslide type. Once you have lacquered the hull do leave it upturned and allow the lacquer to dry and harden for as long as possible before putting the boat on a stand as it can take on "pressure" marks from the foam or felt pads quite easily. Paint sprayers use an infrared heater to help cure the finish I believe.
    Keep up the great work ๐Ÿ‘.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to the plan
    3 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    "Paint sprayers use an infrared heater to help cure the finish I believe."
    So do I Rob, either IR or a 300W halogen lamp.๐Ÿ‘
    The latter helps to see what I'm doin' as well ๐Ÿค“
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to the plan
    3 months ago by figtree7nts ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Michael,

    Outstanding Workmanship!

    Cheers, Ed
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to the plan
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Mike,
    โ€œOh dearโ€ or words to that effect"
    I bet the air was blue!!
    Excellent work.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to the plan
    3 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    "Oh Sh..............ugar!"
    All's well that ends well Rob ๐Ÿ‘
    Bit puzzled by your measurements though; 0.0023 thou, 0.0001 thou!?๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    Pretty thin๐Ÿ˜‰
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to the plan
    3 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    Sorry Doug one "0" to many
    Supplied was 0.0025" / 0.07mm
    Oratrim was 0.0015" / 0.04mm
    However on measuring various other bits of scrap trim there is a variance, but yes still pretty thin at 0.0015" - 0.001"
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to the plan
    3 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    I take your advise on leaving the paint to dry, Its something I hadn't come across as all my spraying has always been done on old cars (using cellulose) and rarely are they put on a stand that contacts the body๐Ÿ˜Š.
    When I did my grandsons boat I was caught out with this, although I had left the hull to dry for some days but it still suffered from faint marking by the foam strips, so this time the Crash Tender has spent a lot of time upturned and will do when the lacquering is applied.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to the plan
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    Hmmm. That looks really fiddly. Another job not to look forward to once I start building mine.
    Lovely job as usual Mike.๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Water Supply
    3 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    View All
    Much head scratching about the plumbing๐Ÿคฃ
    I mentioned that I may consider a separate water supply for the monitors as there were so many issues with it all being sourced from the propeller pic-up pipe, I tried with solenoid valves etc etc but there are too many issues about switching, water flow and future breakdowns in the system.
    So a separate water supply, however this has its own issues, firstly another hole in the hull mid-ship and a pick-up that wouldn't force water into the hoses when the boat is going forward, and being able to self prime the pump when stationary.
    I've come up with this design that fits on the underside of the hull (with some reinforcement) mid ship

    propeller pic-up pipe
    boat
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    7
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water Supply
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    I hope this nicely made pickup work better than expected.
    Looking forward to seeing it in action.

    Martin555.

    pickup
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    4 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    View All
    As I said before I wanted to separate the smoke from the water so I have made an outlet that will be bolted into the transom that separates the two outlets, whilst appearing to exit through the same hole. First I machined the main body having an outside diameter of 10mm and internally an 8mm diameter bore which carries the smoke out.
    Into this 8mm dia there is a 5mm hole drilled at 90 degrees sideways and connects to a second body which is silver soldered to the main body, this has a 6mm entry pipe.
    The water is carried out through a 6mm tube which is soft soldered into the main body. Finally an outer ring was machined; it was drilled/tapped 10BA which will allow it to be fastened into the transom. I have yet to try this for real but I see no reason for apprehension!

    8mm diameter bore
    ring
    6mm tube
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    7
    9
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    4 months ago by Graham93 ( Warrant Officer)
    Flag
    Michael,

    Those look really smart. Looking forward to seeing them in action.

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    4 months ago by marky ( Commander)
    Flag
    Superb piece of engineering ๐Ÿ‘
    Cheers Marky
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    4 months ago by robbob ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi Mike.
    Yet more precision engineering and a concept that should work quite well ๐Ÿ‘.
    Although I have a fear that this is going to turn out to be quite a heavy boat when she's finished ๐Ÿ˜ฎ.
    Rob.

    boat
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    4 months ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Michael,
    That is some extremely professional Engineering.
    You are truly a master at this sort of work.
    I am really looking forward to seeing these in operation.
    Well done.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    4 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    Super bit of engineering Mike.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    4 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    I wonder if a "blimp" would look OK, just to give that bit of extra support๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    4 months ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    What a beautiful piece of engineering work Mike,๐Ÿ‘
    can I ask what lathe you do your work on.


    Cheers, Pete

    lathe
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    4 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Something like this Mike? ๐Ÿ˜
    Plenty of inspiration here-

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+with+blimp&tbm=isch&sou...

    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+with+blimp&tbm=isch&source=univ&client=firefox-b-d&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj45POA7K7mAhVLExoKHZ8QA6IQ7Al6BAgEECQ&biw=1920&bih=955#imgrc=_
    ๐Ÿ”—
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Back to smoke and mirrors sorry water
    4 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    Pete, I have a Harrison M300, In the past I ran the Leeds Engineering industry Training Board (EITB). When the industry Boards were "wrecked" and closed by the then government I had the job of selling all the centres assets, so I bought quite a lot of equipment as my job was/is my hobby.

    Doug that looks just the ticket
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Scramble nets.
    4 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    View All
    I have to thank Rob for his trail blazing manufacture of his nets as it made the process of making mine much easier.
    I have made mine slightly different because early on in the build I decided to made the cabin roofs as flat and not cluttered as possible to make the painting and rubbing down much easier. So my rails that hold the nets to the roof are made to the same dimensions but are fastened to a sub board which can be attached via pre drilled pins at the very end of the build.
    I cut a board to accommodate a 6 x 9 net having a spacing of 23mm squares. I tied the longitudinal ropes (WARP)to the pins and then loaded the home made โ€œneedleโ€ which was made from a piece of 3 mm brass rod with a 2.2 hole drilled in one end to glue the rope into and the other end was machined to a point. Having loaded the needle I tied the end to a pin and started to tread the cross treads (WEFT) going through the warp tread until I had crossed all 6 warp threads and tied off on a pin at this point a dab of super glue sets the joint. This continues on 9 weft treads.
    The net has now to be fastened to the cabin roof rail and the pole at the bottom of the net. This โ€œpoleโ€ is a 3 mm dowel with holes drilled at intervals along its length. The ends are looped through the holes and back through a piece of black shrink sleeve making a secure joint. At the top a similar process of looping around the rail and securing with a piece of black shrink sleeve.finished the 1st scramble net.
    โ€œREPEATโ€ Sorry I forgot to show the board used to tie the warp and weft
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    7
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Scramble nets.
    4 months ago by robbob ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi Mike.
    Great idea with the sub-board for the rails, I wish I'd thought of that ๐Ÿค”.
    Nice 'needlework' too.
    Keep up the good work.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Scramble nets.
    4 months ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    Lovely work Mike, what string did you use?๐Ÿ˜

    Cheers, Pete
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Scramble nets.
    4 months ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Very nice work Mike.
    That must of taken ages to do.
    You have made an excellent job of it.
    Well done.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Scramble nets.
    4 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    Pete, I used Twisted Cord Line Tie String Thread Yarn Fibre Poly Rope Polypropylene PP 2 mm. A bit, of a mouthfull I'm affraid,however it worked fine

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twisted-Cord-Line-Tie-String-Thre...
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twisted-Cord-Line-Tie-String-Thread-Yarn-Fibre-Poly-Rope-Polypropylene-PP-2-mm/172434875952?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
    ๐Ÿ”—
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Scramble nets.
    4 months ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    Many thanks for that link Mike, only thing is, they don't do colour brown, which I think would look better, so have ordered black, next best.๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers, Pete
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    Show 65 More Posts


    About This Website
    Terms of Service
    Privacy Policy
    Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info