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    19

















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    The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works
    by mturpin013 πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    πŸ“£










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    51 Posts 146 Comments 402 Photos 438 Likes
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    πŸ“ Pulley blocks and Deck Rigging Screw Eyes
    7 days ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Been away on holiday for a few weeks so not been doing much but back at it again -

    Pulley blocks
    The mast has a small pulley block on each end of the cross bar, but I wanted to have a go at making them so using some 0.5mm I marked out the profile and then bent the flat pieces into a channel this was followed by drilling an 8BA clearance hole through both sides. Next I machined the centre pulley out of brass with a 2mm rad to suit the rope I will be using; I also did an extra round dummy pulley in steel to use as the template to file the radius on the frame and use as a guide for the width of the block. Using a smooth file I carefully filed the radius on each piece using the dummy pulley as a guide and trimmed the width, this was followed using wet and dry paper to finish. To fasten the blocks to the cross bar they need a screw fastening on the top, this was done by soldering an 8BA nut on the top. Finally the brass pulley wheel was secured in place with an 8BA nut and bolt, with a threaded stud in the top.


    Deck rigging screw eyes - can be bought, but again, I had to have a go, so first I ground a tool to form the end ball which would also part the piece off after it had been turned and threaded. The bar was turned down to the thread o/d and then using an 8BA die the diameter was threaded. I then used the form tool to produce the ball end, this worked OK but could be improved on as the final turned finish wasn’t as good as I’d hoped for, but I don’t have time to spend on this as I only wanted six eyes so the diameters will be finished with a small file and wet and dry. Turned pieces finished, next I set up a gang of slitting saws to mill the flats, holding each part in a split threaded clamp in the machine vice the flats were milled in parallel. Finally using the same clamp jig the ball was drilled with a 2mm hole again to suit the 2mm rope. There’s some final dressing to do before the parts are clear lacquered.

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    2mm rope
    machine
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Pulley blocks and Deck Rigging Screw Eyes
    7 days ago by figtree7nts ( Commodore)
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    Great workmanship, Michael!

    Cheers, Ed
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Pulley blocks and Deck Rigging Screw Eyes
    7 days ago by stevedownunder ( Master Seaman)
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    Beautiful workman ship.
    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Pulley blocks and Deck Rigging Screw Eyes
    6 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Excellent stuffπŸ‘
    And a great tutorial as well.
    Thanks Michael😊
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Pulley blocks and Deck Rigging Screw Eyes
    6 days ago by Mariner85 ( Leading Seaman)
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    Beautiful workmanship! Great job.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Pulley blocks and Deck Rigging Screw Eyes
    3 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Superb workmanship as usual.
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    πŸ“ Radio Aerial and Loud Hailer
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    On the cabin roof is the radio aerial, the kit supplies a base in white metal, but to accommodate my aerial design I decided to machine my own out of brass. I wanted the pole to be tapered and with it being only 2mm dia I found the easiest way was to support the piece in a wooden block at the same height as the Dremel laid flat on the bench. With the piece rotating, I used a smooth file and grades of wet & dry to taper down to 0.75 dia. Next I machined the 2mm end down to 1.5mm to accept the spring, this spring will be soldered to a lower piece which then goes through the base and into the cabin where it’s bolted in position. I decided to incorporate a spring to make sure it does not get accidently bent.
    Soft soldering was chosen, as the silver solder would have tempered the spring. The result was really better than I could have imagined.

    Loud Hailer
    Another heavy item, first job hollow out with the Dremel and then fill with polystyrene and top with Milliput and sculpt the shape –result, the weight was halved. Next I made a frame in the same way as the one I did for the search light – (see search light)

    All the cabin furniture has to be mounted on the roof which is curved! I found the best way was to use Milliput. The method was as follows,
    1 Drill the hole for each item in the appropriate place
    2 Make sure the fastening method for each piece will hold the piece upright (I tapped the hole 8BA)
    3 Make a dividing piece from PTFE baking sheet circular for most items but oblong for the mast feet
    4 Roughen the surface where the items contact the cabin roof
    5 Place the divider on the items base
    6 Mix a small amount of Milliput
    7 Place a circular amount under each item
    8 put some Vaseline on the securing bolt so it doesn’t stick
    9 Pull the item down to the desired height and fasten in position then trim around the bases
    10 When dry remove the item and the baking sheet, paint as required
    11 sorry if this is common knowledge

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    πŸ’¬ Re: Radio Aerial and Loud Hailer
    1 month ago by figtree7nts ( Commodore)
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    Excellent work as always!
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Radio Aerial and Loud Hailer
    1 month ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Another super job. By the way, the detail is really helpful for us students. Thanks.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Radio Aerial and Loud Hailer
    6 days ago by Rookysailor ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Well written build doc, nice and easy to understand,
    looking forward to the next postπŸ‘

    Peter
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    πŸ“ Mast assembly
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    The supplied mast is of white metal and although OK it has a number of minus points for me.
    1- The mast does not lend its self to being hinged.
    2- It really needs navigation light on top and the supplied casting is not suitable for this.
    3- wiring needs to be hidden, not easy with the casting
    4- it’s quite heavy
    Having said all that it’s ok if you don’t want my wish list. So on with the manufacture of a replica, I chose brass as the preferred material because it’s easy to silver and soft solder.
    The main legs are made from 6mm round tube, which I squeezed in my machine vice to an oval shape to look like the castings, each of the ends were then squeezed again at 90 degrees to allow then to join to the cross mid-section. I made some brass inserts for the hinged end from 2mm brass sheet, which are bent by 25 degrees to allow the hinge mechanism to sit at 90 degrees to the cabin roof, these are drilled and tapped 8BA. These pieces actually block the end of the oval tube and need to have a 2mm slot milled in them to allow the wires to exit the tube; these are soft soldered in place later. Two feet were made from two pieces of 2mm brass plate the base plate being slotted to accept the upright and finally silver soldered together.
    (A point here for silver soldering is to use as little solder as possible and allow it to flow with the heat around the joint this means that no filing is needed. I find it’s also good practice to quench the part when nearly cool to break the glass like residue of the flux then just steel wool is required to clean the parts).
    The feet upstands were then drilled 8BA clearance and the base fixing holes drilled the same size. The cross mid-section is made from 1mm brass sheet and is bent through 360 degrees whilst placing a 6mm round bar in the centre to create a hole for the top mast. A small wooden former was used as the piece was pressed together in the machine vice, this was then silver soldered to give stability and then filed to shape. This piece has to accommodate the wires passing through, so again a 2mm slot is milled from each leg location to the centre to create passage up to the top mast. The top mast is just stock tubing which then has a turned top with four 5mm holes machined at 90 degrees to accommodate the LED. This is a 5mm Flat top wide angle LED this will direct the light out of the four holes. Finally the cross piece, again stock tube with small ball finials at each end soft soldered in place and tapped 10 BA for the pulley blocks.
    All pieces now made, it’s time to assemble the parts using a combination of soft soldering and epoxy resin. The wire that I used was silicon sheaved, and when I soldered the legs to the mid-section and lower hinge piece I made sure there was enough wire to pull through to check if the process had damaged the wire, but it hadn’t. So having soldered the LED, the top was epoxied to the upper tube and the tube epoxied to the mid-section. Finally the mid-section was filled using Milliput but first putting some Vaseline on the wires to avoid them being stuck should I ever have to rewire the unit. Next the cross beam was added and epoxied in place. The bottom of the legs looked plain compared with the cast version so I have made some thin gauge brass covers with mock bolts as per the original. The whole assembly was cleaned up ready for a first coat of etch primer, and white primer, followed later with a final coat of appliance white

    cabin
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    paint
    parts
    navigation light
    wiring
    epoxy
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    drill
    roof
    stability
    resin
    former
    chine
    wooden
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    soldering
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    πŸ’¬ Mast assembly
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    360Β°?πŸ€” Weren't you back where you started 😁
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    πŸ’¬ Mast assembly
    1 month ago by figtree7nts ( Commodore)
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    Excellent Work!
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Mast assembly
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Your correct 360 degrees does get you back to where you started, so fold a piece of brass sheet through 360 and you get what is in pic, a folded in half piece of brass.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Mast assembly
    1 month ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Thanks. Another Master Class. I will need more paper to print out this blog as my build guide.πŸ˜‰
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    πŸ“ Servo Mount
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Servo mount
    I have looked and better looked for a decent servo mount but could not find one that suited the position I wanted to put the servo, so I decide to make my own. I bought some aluminium channel, which would act as a platform and base for the standard servo. Space in terms of height is at a premium and so some material had to be removed from the keel area to make sure the servo arms did not catch on the underside floor of the rear deck. As the space tapers in height from stern>forward then the best position for the servo would be next to the forward bulkhead

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    wanted
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    πŸ’¬ Servo Mount
    2 months ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    I'm curious to know why you opted for the 'push - pull' arrangement for the linkages?.
    Nice piece of metalwork, and polished to a mirror finish too...dazzling 😎
    Rob.

    servo
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    πŸ’¬ Servo Mount
    2 months ago by reilly4 ( Warrant Officer)
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    The aluminium servo mount is similar to what I have used, but the quality here is a step above excellent. πŸ‘

    I use aluminium angle sections as well, so they can be made into a Z section depending on the application. I use 2mm to 3mm diameter bolts and drill and tap into the sections to secure the servos. This method can be used on any size of servo as they come in various sizes.

    I have also noticed that some modellers put two linkages on rudder servos. if both linkages worked in tension only (ie both pulling), then this is necessary, but if the linkage is a rod that works in both tension (pulling) and compression (pushing) then there should be no need for duplication. None of my models have this arrangement.

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    πŸ’¬ Servo Mount
    2 months ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    The servo mount on my Crash Tender came from China, unfortunately I don't have the machinery or skills that Mike has.
    I found the single linkage to be more than adequate.

    reilly4.
    I note that your motors have fans attached (first 'photo), are they standard on those motors ?

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    πŸ’¬ Servo Mount
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Two reasons for a double linkage, firstly with a single linkage the pressure exerted on the servo from the rudder during a L/H turn will put the linkage in tension, and when doing a R/H turn then the linkage will be in compression. is it possible this could have an effect on the electronic mechanism in the servo?, not that I have any expertise in this area, however with two linkages this is equalled out.
    Secondly, and the main reason, is that it may not be necessary, it may be overkill, but I like symmetry, and the servo arm has two arms maybe for a reason?
    At the end of the day it's personal preference and it’s good to foster debate and you may find a lot of the parts I make may not be necessary to most people but I enjoy engineering, wait while you see the mast!

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    πŸ’¬ Servo Mount
    2 months ago by reilly4 ( Warrant Officer)
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    Robbob,
    This was my first venture into using brushless motors so I was a bit uncertain on cooling. I made the fans from aluminium and bolted them on at the existing 2mm bolt locations. Someone told me they wouldn't rev fast enough but I think every bit helps. I also have water cooling at the front plate of the motors. The end result is that the motors never get warm, even after an hour of sailing around the lake at good speed.

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    πŸ’¬ Servo Mount
    2 months ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi reilly4.
    Thanks for your response.
    I didn't think it was a standard feature, it does seem to work though and I did note your water cooled motor mounts too.
    Hi Mike.
    Sorry to hi-jack your thread πŸ˜‰.

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    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Just moved these two posts that were posted further down my blog by mistake as they are significant to the discussion and bring back the subject as I think its important as I would like to know if any others have a view. the photo is Johns

    Response by JOHN on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify βœ“ Like This Post ( 2 )
    hi there
    With regard the servo rudder linkages - I was advised that it is always best to use the 'push/pull method' of linkage - as this has two strong points in its favour.

    The first problem it alleviates is - sometimes if on a single connection between rudder and servo and it is not set up quite right - a servo movement can force the rudder tiller arm to come back on itself under certain circumstances - i.e. when the distance from the centre of the servo to the outer hole on the servo arm isn't equal to the centre of the rudder post - to the centre of the linkage arm on the rudder.


    The second problem - you can get an odd strain on the gearing in the servo, because on some models there is a fair bit of force on the rudder blade - whilst the model is in motion & turning to port or starboard. The way to think of this, you are riding a pushbike and holding the handlebars with one hand and you are trying to turn a sharp corner - think of how much strain and effort you have to put in. Now, if you have a double linkage to either side of the tiller arm from your servo - that strain now is balanced and is evening out the strain in the servo. Admittedly, this problem where you wear the servo out only happens on very rare occasions - but - as the old saying goes 'belts and braces/better be safe than sorry'.


    John

    Response by RNinMunich on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify βœ“ Like This Post ( 1 )
    In the wrong post but sensible stuff John.πŸ‘
    Hadn't considered it before but it certainly makes sense to me that a dual linkage will help cancel the backlash from the rudder. And hence stop the servo motor having to fight it. That would reduce potential 'hunting' of the servo and also take the strain off the gearing.
    Probably not a noticeable problem for short term rudder commands or in small, light models.
    But could be in the heavyweights with big rudders I suppose. like Mike said (sort of); makes yer think!!
    More power to yer servos Gents.
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    PS Dual linkage not possible in some situations, see pic of cramped space in my Sea Scout. Had to lay the servo on it's side.😲

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    πŸ’¬ Servo Mount
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Two reasons for a double linkage, firstly with a single linkage the pressure exerted on the servo from the rudder during a L/H turn will put the linkage in tension, and when doing a R/H turn then the linkage will be in compression. is it possible this could have an effect on the electronic mechanism in the servo, not that I have any expertise in this area, however with two linkages this is equalled out.
    Secondly, and the main reason, is that it may not be necessary, it may be overkill, but I like symmetry, and the servo arm has two arms maybe for a reason?
    At the end of the day its personal preference and it’s good to foster debate and you may find a lot of the parts I make may not be necessary to most people but I enjoy engineering, wait while you see the mast!

    engine
    parts
    rudder
    servo
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    πŸ’¬ Servo Mount
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Accidently deleted posts -
    Response by JOHN on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify βœ“ Like This Post ( 3 )
    hi there
    With regard the servo rudder linkages - I was advised that it is always best to use the 'push/pull method' of linkage - as this has two strong points in its favour.

    The first problem it alleviates is - sometimes if on a single connection between rudder and servo and it is not set up quite right - a servo movement can force the rudder tiller arm to come back on itself under certain circumstances - i.e. when the distance from the centre of the servo to the outer hole on the servo arm isn't equal to the centre of the rudder post - to the centre of the linkage arm on the rudder.


    The second problem - you can get an odd strain on the gearing in the servo, because on some models there is a fair bit of force on the rudder blade - whilst the model is in motion & turning to port or starboard. The way to think of this, you are riding a pushbike and holding the handlebars with one hand and you are trying to turn a sharp corner - think of how much strain and effort you have to put in. Now, if you have a double linkage to either side of the tiller arm from your servo - that strain now is balanced and is evening out the strain in the servo. Admittedly, this problem where you wear the servo out only happens on very rare occasions - but - as the old saying goes 'belts and braces/better be safe than sorry'.


    John

    Response by RNinMunich on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify βœ“ Like This Post ( 1 )
    In the wrong post but sensible stuff John.πŸ‘
    Hadn't considered it before but it certainly makes sense to me that a dual linkage will help cancel the backlash from the rudder. And hence stop the servo motor having to fight it. That would reduce potential 'hunting' of the servo and also take the strain off the gearing.
    Probably not a noticeable problem for short term rudder commands or in small, light models.
    But could be in the heavyweights with big rudders I suppose. like Mike said (sort of); makes yer think!!
    More power to yer servos Gents.
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    PS Dual linkage not possible in some situations, see pic of cramped space in my Sea Scout. Had to lay the servo on it's side.😲

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    πŸ“ Roof magnets
    3 months ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    I had from the beginning I had intended to hold all the hatches down with Neodymium magnets however as you work on, these things seem to get forgotten, so now it’s time to do some of the not so exiting tasks. I had bought some 10 x 5x 1.5 magnets so I need to machine the slots into the roof cabin quadrants. These needed to be mirrored by a quadrant that can be epoxied into the corners of each cabin area. Using the trusty Lidl disc sander I produced 12 quadrants and then after making a simple jig to hold them in place I machined the corresponding slot in each one taking note of left and right hand variants. The next job is to glue all the magnets into the roof spaces and then when they are set glue the magnets into the quadrants making sure the orientation is correct. To make sure the magnets are set into the cabin sides at the correct depth I made a temporary balsa wood frame around each cabin to rest the quadrants on while they set.
    Another small job complete

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    πŸ’¬ Roof magnets
    3 months ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Mike.
    As you saw at the London show I've use magnets extensively on my Fire Tender and the Police Launch, they're the ideal solution for concealed fixings.
    Rob.

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    3 months ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Where do you think I got the idea from.
    (Robbob - posted - Secure the hatches and raise the flags ! - Posted: 9th Jul 2017)
    Thank you very much RobπŸ‘

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    πŸ’¬ Roof magnets
    3 months ago by Joe727 ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Thanks for posting the jig with the cam action, nice simple and looks pretty effective. I will have to try that soon on some current work. Cheers, Joe

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    πŸ“ Cabin detail part 6 panel light
    3 months ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Cabin detail part 6 panel light
    The panel light presented a difficult challenge in that I assume the real one has a tubular light fitting in it, difficult in 1/12 scale. However, creating the tube assembly was not difficult using some annealed 1/8” brass tube and making a bending jig, (simply a 1/8 grove milled using a ball ended slot drill into a piece of hardwood I formed the tube into the required shape. I used the back of the jig to hold the piece while I filled the tube half way through along it top inside edge @ 45 degrees this is where the LED tube will fit. The LED tube is from one of the new type LED garden light bulb that use a small solar panel to illuminate it during the during dark hours. Smashing the bulb leaves 4 filaments which can be used independently, these are very delicate and need the wires attaching very carefully finally feeding it into the brass tube and then after all this fiddling, if it still lights, epoxy it in place. The next job is to make some brackets to fix it to the instrument panel. The bracket was made from 1/8” bore tube and some 0.010” brass shim I drilled some holes in the sheet prior to cutting to size, this was done using only a 1/8” dia centre drill and then enlarged with a clock makers reamer until the tube fitted snugly through this was then soft soldered in place. The whole unit was then epoxied in place on the instrument panel. All the wiring for the panel LEDs can now be completed ready for connection to the random flashing circuit board. (this came as a kit for just Β£3:90) The circuit board is fastened to the panel with a sub-board made from a scrap piece of ply with PCB supporting pillars in the corners, when this is completed I will post a video of it working.
    The LEDs on the circuit board are only for testing and will be replaced with the panel LEDs.

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 6 panel light
    3 months ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Mike.
    You described this detailing to me at the Ally Pally show, and it's even better than I imagined.
    Superb work as always.πŸ‘πŸ‘
    Rob.

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    πŸ“ Cabin detail part 5 speed control & compass
    4 months ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Cabin detail part 5 speed control & compass
    The speed control has two main throttle controls presumably to operate the engines independently. The construction of this piece made it easy to allow each arm to operate independently but to ensure that the levers had some stiffness in the travel I incorporated a spring into the centre screwed shaft. I machined some detail into the body and a recess in each end face to accommodate a dial (AHEAD, ASTERN, STOP, SLOW etc). The circular body needed something to stand on so I made a cradle, which will support it when it is screwed to the framework. I left the whole unit in natural brass, lacquered it to stop any tarnishing, and mounted it with an 8BA screw to hold it in position.
    The compass again a simple turned piece of brass with a recess machined into the top face to accept a N,S,E,W compass dial. This item is simply glued in the recess on the console.

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 5 speed control & compass
    4 months ago by Donnieboy ( Warrant Officer)
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    Excellent craftsmanship.I envy your skills.Fabulous.πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 5 speed control & compass
    4 months ago by BOATSHED ( Warrant Officer)
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    When you look at the last picture it could almost be a full size cabin control panel. Beautiful bit of work there. I just wish I had the tools to do all that turning on a lathe. Awesome.

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 5 speed control & compass
    4 months ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Incredible detailed work Michael.
    Keep this up and I'll run out of superlatives.....😜

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 5 speed control & compass
    4 months ago by Joe727 ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    WOW!!

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 5 speed control & compass
    4 months ago by Stevet ( Recruit)
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    Not bad at all, i will inspect it for real this weekend!
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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 5 speed control & compass
    4 months ago by BOATSHED ( Warrant Officer)
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    What do you mean when you say you will inspect it for real this weekend. Where are you going to find a REAL RAF Crash Tender. I didn't think there were ANY left in existence. I have seen MTB 102 several times and spoken to the crew of that day and when I asked could I come on board to have a look around, they always decline saying sorry insurance will not cover us for that.

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 5 speed control & compass
    3 months ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Boatshed, you have misinterpreted the comment, "stevet" is my brother and he is visiting me this weekend.
    Sorry, I really wish I was going to see a real one!

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 5 speed control & compass
    3 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Twigged you were going to view the model 'original', but had assumed at some model show.
    Hadn't realised U2 were bruvs. Keep it in the family huh? 😁
    Two very skilful guys, 'Stereo Hat Off' πŸ‘
    Luuuv the instrument panel.
    Can you make me one for my USS Enterprise (The Big E) in 1:350 scale please 😁 More power to your elbows guysπŸ˜‰ Cheers, Doug 😎

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 5 speed control & compass
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Just keeps 😊getting better.

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    πŸ“ Cabin detail part 4 Steering wheel
    4 months ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    The steering wheel is a simple 3-spoke design; first, I machined a ring and a centre boss in brass. I then made a wooden jig to hold the parts in the correct position whilst soldering, this consisted of a turned block with a recess to locate the O/D, and the taper towards the centre hole to give a β€œdish effect” that locates the centre boss. This just leaves the three arms to machine; these are cut using a slitting saw to cut a 3mm wide strip from a piece of 1.5 mm brass plate. These are the cut to length ready for soft soldering and then the parts are all cleaned and placed in the jig, ideally a minimum of solder is used to minimise cleaning afterwards. The finishing/fettling I find is always easier if you use a sharp craft knife to slice any excess solder away as it doesn’t easily mark the brass in the same way you might using Swiss files, finally finish with 600 and 1000 w&d before priming ready for topcoat of black gloss. The first wheel I decided was too small so the pics are of that construction; the final larger wheel is in the last 3 pictures

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 4 Steering wheel
    4 months ago by steve-d ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    You, my friend, are way too good at this.
    Consider my hat well and truly doffed.

    Steve

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    πŸ“ Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels)
    4 months ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    After the Christmas break its back to the cabin to finish some of the instrument detail. You may recall I detailed the cockpit with some ply constructions to represent the general layout; I also intend to detail the compass, throttle controls, steering wheel, panel lighting, and instrument panel.
    The instrument panel was copied and scaled from various drawing and pictures and I came up with a three-panel unit where panels 1 & 3 are identical as they are for the two-engine managements system the centre panel deals with electrical things. I intend to make the panel out of 1.5 mm aluminium cut to size on the guillotine I then attached this to a hardwood block with some strong double sided tape this will be more than strong enough to hold the piece for the drilling/light milling operation. I worked out the hole positions using an absolute datum (same as CNC work, if only I was still working) This does take some time using my rather old milling machine making sure any backlash is taken out during the 28 linear movements. I used various sizes of centre drills to produce the holes as they give not only accurate size but also perfectly round holes on thin material and the only ones that needed to be a particular size (6mm dial holes) the others are for switches and LEDs which can all be a 3 mm location hole. Each hole was drilled and then chamfered to simulate a bezel on the dials. Finally, I milled a shallow groove (2mm x 0.3 deep) to simulate the separate panels. I have copied a number of different marine dials from the internet and using PowerPoint I aligned in a complete group and then printed and laminated them, this will be placed behind the aluminium plate using double-sided tape.
    Having fixed the dials in place I drilled through the holes where LEDSs will fit. The LEDs will be shortened and polished so they are flat to the face; these are then stuck in place. Next, I made all the switches from brass bar with a fine brass pin glued across its face to simulate the lever. These were painted gloss black and the centre pin picked out in red, they were then glued into the 3 mm location hole. The black knobs/pull switches were turned out of black Perspex and polished; they were then glued into the location holes. The whole instrument panel is then pinned on to the wooden framework which has been left in natural wood finish (ply) as it looks like the original boat was just a varnished ply finish.

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels)
    4 months ago by Joe727 ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hello, I think I read in one of your posts that you said you were a better builder than skipper, I always say that about myself. I enjoy sailing at the pond but then look forward getting back home to continue building. Your work is exceptional and I enjoy seeing you make everything. Wish I had a lathe like yours but have done without for years as they are beyond my budget. Keep the good work! Joe

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels)
    4 months ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Superbly detailed work Michael πŸ‘
    I'm beginning to wish I put some cabin detail into my crash tender now but I din't think I could match yours !
    Great stuff !
    Rob.

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels)
    4 months ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Rob looking at your past and present work I'm sure you could, but thanks for the vote of confidence.
    Michael

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels)
    4 months ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Perhaps if I had all the machine tooling that you have !!

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels)
    4 months ago by BOATSHED ( Warrant Officer)
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    robbob, You had lots of things on your Crash Tender build that was machined and turned? Your build was amazing, I watched it with awe.

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels)
    4 months ago by robbob ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    'tis true but I just provided drawings to my brother...him with the lathe 😁

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels)
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I have all the machines and more but I cannot do that. You have a real skill. I love your fixture ideas. One day I will try to machine some similar parts when I start my 46" RAF Crash Tender. I intend to use this build blog as my guide. Thanks for all of the in depth explanations of how you achieve such detail using every trick in the book and many that are yet to be written. I love reading this build. Really clever. πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels)
    2 months ago by ropeburn123 ( Able Seaman)
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    What can you say but nice work

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    πŸ’¬ Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels)
    2 months ago by BOATSHED ( Warrant Officer)
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    I look with amazement at some of the work that these people do on here. I visualise things in my head but do not have the tools or the nerve to even attempt doing them. No lathe or decent soldering iron or good enough workshop or the money to start with. How I envy the work they do. And as for some of the electronics< i'm lost. Awesome springs to mind on it all.

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    πŸ“ Rear deck continued
    4 months ago by mturpin013 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    The rear deck has a few features that need to be done to finish the deck.
    1) The hatch part needs the magnets putting in to hold it in place, which requires the deck to be milled out to accept the magnets. Having milled the recess out in both the base and the hatch in four places the magnets can be epoxied in the base. Now these have been set in place the upper magnets can be placed on top of the base magnets to get the correct orientation and glued in place, but I made sure to place some silicon baking paper between the magnets so they don’t accidently get stuck together (with epoxy).
    2) The handles and recess to lift the decks out have to be milled out. Using a 2 mm slot drill I cut a 10mm x 5mm 1.5 mm deep recess in 4 places. Each recess has two holes drilled in the corners to accept the brass handles which will be epoxied in later
    3) There are two drains at the rear of the deck. These were made from a machined piece of tube, which had vee groves milled in one end to accept a 1.5 mm brass rod in each, which were then soldered in place. After some cleaning up of the excess solder the underside was filled in using epoxy resin coloured black (with Graphite) to simulate a dark hole. The ends were then machined flat, polished, and finally epoxied into the deck.
    4) Finally the foam tanks need to be secured, once again using round magnets this time , they are sunk into the deck and similarly the opposing magnets are sunk into the base of each foam tank, this gives a real sturdy fastening the tanks jump into position as soon as they are placed near their position.
    5) The deck has had a number of clear lacquer coats during manufacture so now for a couple of final coats.

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    πŸ’¬ Rear deck continued
    3 months ago by dennisw ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    I like very much

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