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    23

















    Followers
    The Vosper 46โ€ RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works
    by mturpin013 ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ( Lieutenant)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










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    59 Posts 182 Comments 402 Photos 506 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Fire Monitors Part 1
    3 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    The white metal items supplied are OK but really donโ€˜t lend themselves to being working items. Graham93 has already completed a version which looks just like the drawing and photos available, and are the best Iโ€™ve seen. The bar has been set so here goes, whenever an item like this is been contemplated itโ€™s always good to spend some time in planning a sequence of operations and assessing the problem areaโ€™s at the start of the work and if possible dealing with these parts first. Failure of the difficult process doesnโ€™t mean you have wasted work on other parts that are now scrap.
    I think the most difficult and problematic piece is the pipework that sits at the top and curves round in two halves, this in reality is a casting, however replicating it can be done using brass pipe. Brass pipe can be purchased in annealed form; however my stock wasnโ€™t so the first job was to anneal the tube.
    Heating to a dull red heat and allowed to cool, this treatment will soften the metal completely. In some books it is suggested that the brass should be quenched in water (which is what I do) after heating but this is to speed up the commercial process, and quenching has no effect on the annealing process. So tube annealed we need some method of retaining its tubular form during bending, in plumbing I use a spring but when you compare wall thickness/dia a spring would have to be mighty strong and so small.
    An easy alternative is to crimp one end of the tube and put some soldering flux down the tube, follow this by heating with a low temperature blow torch to melt solder and fill the tube, then allow to cool.
    You now have a soft tube which when bent will hold its shape. Thatโ€™s the next challenge, the shape, and being able to replicate it twice, so an easy jig is required.
    Having marked out a scrap piece of hardwood I cut the โ€œUโ€ shape using the band saw and filled a groove along the top edge, this was then placed under my drill press with the appropriate dia bar (this must be calculated accurately as it helps to create the final form) on top of the tube, then just pull gently down (it takes very little force) this jig leave a small amount to finish bend to a complete a circle, the excess length is trimmed off and then I used a piece of hard wood with a small radius on the end to tap the final curve.
    Next the circle needs to be cut into two pieces I used a small slitting saw in the milling machine. Now itโ€™s time to remove the solder, simply heat up holding in plyers and then shake vigorously to expel the solder. (Make sure you do this on your own and wear safety glasses.)
    The white metal โ€œmain pillar fittingโ€ and the monitors final โ€œexit pipeโ€ will be used in the unit and all that is required is to mount them in the lathe and drill a 4mm hole through each and clean up the casting. Next I cut 4 pieces of 4mm brass pipe; these will form the main water passage. Two more machine turned items are the โ€œpivot post topโ€ that feeds water through the 2 brass pipes into the โ€œjunction blockโ€ which then feeds into the exit pipe, sounds all very simple?
    Having made all the components, itโ€™s time to think about fastening them all together. First items to be joined are the โ€œupstand pipeโ€ to the โ€œpivot post topโ€ X 2 also the โ€œfeed to exit pipeโ€ and the โ€œjunction blockโ€ X 2, these four joints are all to be silver soldered.
    I mounted them in a piece of wood and placed a tight spring brass ring around the upright pipe to stop then sliding down when heated. Having the joints spotlessly clean is paramount, the flux is added, I insert very small pieces of silver solder into the holes at the top cross holes (less is more) a gentle heat, and watch as the flux goes โ€œglassyโ€, this is closely followed by the solder melting, watching at the lowest point of the joint for the tell-tale shinny liquid metal.
    No fettling is required so the 4 parts are dipped for 45 minutes in masonry brick cleaner (dilute hydrochloric acid) the parts are now clean and ready for the next soldering activity. See part 2

    version
    milling machine
    brass pipes
    masonry brick cleaner
    machine
    lathe
    monitors
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 1
    2 days ago by Graham93 ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Mike,

    Looking good. I agree, bending the tubes is probably the most difficult part. I like your elegant solution with the solder filled tube. Much better than my brute force attempt. I used annealed copper tube and an external bending spring, but if I put enough of a bend in the tube, I couldnโ€™t remove the spring! Iโ€™ll remember the solder trick for any future attempts.
    Graham93
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 1
    2 days ago by Martin555 ( Commodore)
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    I would never of thought about filling the tube with lead.
    very cleaver, i must remember that.
    The white metal parts don't look out of place at all, and when painted you would not know.
    nice workmanship.
    well done.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 1
    2 days ago by Rookysailor ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Another option Mike, that I have used for bending hollow tubes in brass or copper, is to block one end off with putty or like, then fill nearly to the top. leave a little space for air, then seal again, pop into the freezer for an hour or so, the bend the required shape,then into hot water after removing putty, and one un-kinked bend!๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers, Peter (Rooky)

    freezer
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Monitors Part 1
    2 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    Always something to learn no mater how long you've been at it, and I've been at it for a long time!
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    ๐Ÿ“ Painting
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    Trying to juggle refit of the new workshop with keeping the build going so did a first primmer coat on the whole boat, looks good and As Im away on holiday next 2 weeks it wil give it time to harden off so any minor defects can be seen to before final pimer coat , and then some colour.
    Sorry about poor quality pictures, I am working on a very old computer and don't have any picture editing facilities. (my computer totally failed and Im awaiting a new delivery so maybe off line for a while)

    boat
    computer
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Commodore)
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    Looking good,well done.
    Enjoy your holiday.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    1 month ago by robbob ( Captain)
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    Hi Mike.
    Good to see the boat is getting some paint at last.... don't rush it, remember getting a good finish is 90% preparation and 10% application.
    And going on holiday is better than watching paint dry ๐Ÿ˜.
    Enjoy your break.
    Rob.

    boat
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Absolutely Rob๐Ÿ‘
    The secret ingredient is patience - buckets of it๐Ÿ˜‰
    Dunno though, watching paint dry could be quite relaxing ๐Ÿ˜
    Happy hols Mike โ˜€๏ธ
    Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    1 month ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    The masking must be very difficult especially considering all that wood detail you have had to protect.
    Looking really good.
    Happy holidays.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    1 month ago by stevedownunder ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi mturpin,
    Well done, working on a boat whilst doing a workshop refit, you are doing better than me, I struggle with one task at a time.
    Enjoy your break. ๐Ÿ˜€

    Cheers,
    Stephen.

    boat
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    ๐Ÿ“ Blog Interruption
    3 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    Rob your pain was felt as I did this job, I remember thinking of you when setting this up and to be honest I'm not sure I would have done it without some sort of mechanical advantage, but, as you say you got a good finished product, I just did it faster without the pain.๐Ÿ‘

    On another note I have finished the Freeman 22 Cabin Cruiser for my Grandson and its waiting for it maiden voyage, I will post some pics when it occurs and add it to my finished boat harbour.
    Also I'm moving workshop from the 4th floor to the basement, however the room needs a major refit so the modelling will be on hold for a few weeks/months, I'll keep an update on the forum section.

    product
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Blog Interruption
    3 months ago by robbob ( Captain)
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    Hi Mike.
    Good to hear you've finished the lads boat, I hope that you and he enjoy the maiden voyage ๐Ÿ‘
    You are so fortunate to have a such a big house ( 4 floors and a basement ๐Ÿ˜ฎ!!) that you can re-locate your workshop so easily. I hope the move goes well.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Blog Interruption
    3 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    Rob I think the move will take some time as the room is a partly below ground room. Though the room has been used for storage its not really suitable as a hobby room so the room has to be tanked to make sure that no damp occurs, I also intend putting a narrow window in to give some natural light, so all in all quite a big job.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Suction hose
    3 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    Iโ€™ve seen a number of attempts at hose manufacture both on this site and on others, so itโ€™s my turn to suggest a method of manufacture.
    First I measured the approximate length of each of the hoses as suggested visually from the detailed drawings supplied by Mike Cummings. The length required was approximately 12โ€ โ€“ 13โ€ so the first operation was to source a length of 5/16โ€ x 15โ€ long steel.
    This was centre drilled in one end so it could be supported with a revolving centre in the lathe and a 1.7 mm dia hole drill across the diameter about 11/2โ€ from one end for the wire to be fed through and secured.
    The tool post had two felt pads squashed by a metal plate to tension the wire as its pulled through onto the rod, I used the screw cutting feature set at 10 TPI as after a little trial and error this seemed to give the best looking structure to the final covered pipe.
    One safety point to mention is that the coil of wire, prior to forming should be secured on a piece of dowel e.g. brush handle; this allows it to be freely pulled out through the tool post.
    I had sourced some galvanised steel wire 1.5 mm dia (large coil) for the job so passing the end through the 1.7mm hole and bending it back so it wouldnโ€™t be pulled out when the lathe is started. The speed was set at 200 rpm and the hose inner is starting to form, keep an eye on the coil so itโ€™s freely rotating and as we are travelling from the chuck to the tailstock watch for the wire coming towards the tailstock centre and be ready to stop.
    The wire can now be detached from the steel shaft.
    Using the screw cutting method gives an accurate spacing requiring no adjustment to spacing before the shrink sleeve is applied; however a jig is required to hold the pipes in a circular aspect while they cool.
    Finally I can epoxy the ends in place first putting 2 bands of red shrink sleeve on the tube to be shrunk at the joints after the epoxy has set.

    lathe
    rod
    tailstock watch
    jig
    tube
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose
    3 months ago by robbob ( Captain)
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    Nicely done Mike, Oh how I wish I'd had a means of winding the wire around the former other than by hand when I did my hoses โ˜น๏ธ.
    It was a long and painful process for me but I got a reasonable result, so the pain was worth it ๐Ÿ˜.
    Keep up the great work ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose
    3 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Good stuff Michael๐Ÿ‘
    Must experiment with my lathes.
    BTW; as you will see I took the liberty of editing your post with a few relevant EoLs (End Of Lines aka Returns) to break up the text block to make it easier to read for my old eyes!๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿค“
    A gentle hint to several other Posters as well๐Ÿ˜‰
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž

    lathes
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Commodore)
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    Hi,
    Very impressive.
    Well done.

    Martin.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose
    3 months ago by jbkiwi ( Captain)
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    Very nice job and clever idea. Might I suggest an easier way of winding a spring, ( for those who have no idea how to - this coming from a past job as a spring maker).
    Start by selecting your mandrel ( go down in size from the size you want to end up with) as the coils will grow as you release tension (bit of trial and error depending whether you are using hard or soft wire).
    Make a simple tool as shown in the pic (around 300mm x40mm x 8mm - mandrel hole is not too important but a loose fit. Forming pin hole (bottom of which is just above mandrel hole and around 40-50mm back) should be tight press (or hammer) fit and welded on the back side.
    A deep groove is filed into the under side of the pin to take the wire. Bit of trial and error here to get the best pin position,- but once correct you will have it for life.
    This tool is slid over the mandrel (pin towards chuck) A right angle is bent in the wire leaving around a 150mm leg which is inserted in the chuck between the mandrel and the jaws (not clamped) leaving the stock length towards you (or from a coil on a turn table or pin) .

    You then hook the wire under the forming pin. and with the lathe in slow,- 200 rpm is a good start (when you get used to it, probably 500 rpm +) and holding the wire tight against the handle (handle straight out) start winding.
    If you want tight coils move handle slightly towards the chuck and vice versa. You will find that you get quite good at 'pitching' the coils accurately with practice -ie closed-then open- then closed for normal compression springs and all closed for tension springs).
    Stop when you have wound your spring, move tail-stock back and slide spring and tool off mandrel (no need to undo anything, just cut leg and excess wire off to suit .

    There is another tool for forming spring eyes you can make also. If anyone wants to know I'll do a drawing.
    Just keep your eye on the stock end of the wire so you don't get a nasty surprise !
    Best tail-stock would be a plain tube (we just used a 100mm piece of angle iron on an adjustable leg).
    If you had a decent horizontally mounted drill you could make your own spring lathe for small springs. If you are using high tensile wire you will have to adjust your mandrel size as when you heat your spring to temper it, it will reduce in diameter (ie tighten up).
    You probably only need to make 2 or 3 different sizes of these winding handles to cover a range of sizes up to say 8 SWG.
    John B

    8mm - mandrel hole
    lathe
    hammer
    piece
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose
    3 months ago by jbkiwi ( Captain)
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    Something in the system I think Doug, tried changing my lengthy blurb but it just went back to 'as seen on MB') (even though I had spaced it all before posting)
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose
    3 months ago by figtree7nts ( Rear Admiral)
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    Excellent Work!
    Michael, the detail are fantastic!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Superb as usual.๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose
    3 months ago by Colin H ( Commander)
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    Superb looking hoses. Pure and simple design for those who have the correct equipment. I must try for my 34inch aerokits fire boat.
    Cheers Colin.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Commodore)
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    In the past I have done the same sort of thing using a slow speed battery drill.

    Martin.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Suction hose fittings
    4 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    Well what can I say about suction hoses other than thanks to Rob for doing all the leg work to a great standard, all the drawings are well done and easy to follow. Iโ€™m a retired engineering toolmaker so the components are quickly machined, as Rob says the hardest part of this job is filing the square holes of the underwater part, which has the stainless steel mesh inside.
    One tip for drilling the 4 holes around the periphery is to leave the finished component on the parent material, this allows the component to be held in a vice or dividing head on a drilling machine or milling machine table without any damage to the finished surface, they can then be parted off when drilling operation is finished.
    I decided to drill the holes to a depth rather than through to make it accurate when fitting the four turn handles. The small handles were machined with a small ball end and parted off to an exact length.
    The fitting of the handles was a dilemma; should I solder then in or use an adhesive. I knew solder would be secure but cyno needed to be tested, so a dummy handle and hole were glued and after a few minutes I tried to pull it out, all I managed to do was destroy the handle and snap it. The solder option would result in some amount of cleaning up after with little chance of getting all the visible solder removed without an awful lot of fettling.
    I decided to use cyno being the quickest and cleanest, each handle was cleaned/degreased and a drop of cyno down each hole then quickly push the handle home (hence the accurate length of handle and depth of hole).
    Finally the stainless mesh was fabricated into a tube to slide inside the body, the end was formed using a 10mm flat bottomed hole, and an 8mm punch, and this was then formed in the press to form a cup. The end was then pressed into the body and both secured with a drop of epoxy.
    Now all the parts are finished they all get a coat of spray clear lacquer. Next on the list are the pipes.

    adhesive
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose fittings
    4 months ago by robbob ( Captain)
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    Hi Mike.
    Nice lathe work๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    I pleased the my drawings were good enough for you to work from.
    I didn't lacquer my fittings and they are in need of a polish now but when I do I'll give them a coat or two.
    Rob.

    polish
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose fittings
    4 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Quality. They look perfect.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose fittings
    4 months ago by stevedownunder ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Beautiful workmanship as usual, good choice with the cyno, an other option for securing the pins might have been Loctite excess adhesive wipes off easily. This is not a criticism just a thought.
    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose fittings
    4 months ago by jbkiwi ( Captain)
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    Nice work, makes life easy when you have the proper tools. Dividing head has been on my shopping list for a while.

    Dividing head
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose fittings
    4 months ago by Martin555 ( Commodore)
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    Nice bit of machine work.
    Approximately what size is it?

    Martin.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose fittings
    4 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    Steve your right I did think of this but "too late" next time Ill do some planning before sticking!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose fittings
    4 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    Here is one of Robs original drawings
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Suction hose fittings
    3 months ago by Colin H ( Commander)
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    I've known draughtsmen who didn't manage this quality of drawing. Thank you for taking the time to share this with us.
    Cheers Colin. ๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ“ The ladders
    4 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    Next in the line of adornments in the aft deck are the ladders, these were made from 2mm mahogany to the plan included in the kit. To make sure that all parts were identical I cut pieces to slightly longer and wider than required then clamped them together and drilled two 0.4mm holes through them all and tapped a 0.5mm brass pins through to hold them all together for machining. I made use of the Lidl disc sander and shaped the sandwiched block to the dimensions/profile taken from the drawing. I now disassembled the four pieces in preparation for drilling the holes which will determine the position of the stair runs. I need only to mark out one side piece so I can set the drilling machine stops to hold (by hand) each piece for drilling a single hole, then reset for the next hole/s until all pieces have a set of 4 identical holes. Next the stair pieces need to be made, again to the correct sizes as marked on the drawing (out with the sander). Having made the hole position of the sides so precise the same needed to be applied to the pre drilling of the stair runs, so I made a small jig to drill the pilot holes, just clamping each piece under the aluminium angle and spotting through each hole. Some final sanding of the individual pieces and then the assembly was put together using cyno adhesive. I wanted to include a brass stair lip on each step, so using some small angle brass, these were cut to extra length and then again using a small jig they were sanded to exact length; (trimming this small section brass is difficult for all the available sections so using the sander and an appropriate jig give a great finish). The brass pieces were stuck on each stair front using cyno. The ladders now need to be fitted in place, I used some brass angle on the rear of each step and then drilled and tapped the rear of the step 10BA. I could now drill a hole in the rear wall to clamp each step in place.

    kit
    cyno adhesive
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The ladders
    4 months ago by robbob ( Captain)
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    Hi Mike.
    You're making excellent progress and the removable tub is a good idea if you think you might be running in rough conditions.
    I've not had any water get in the rear well at all but then I'm usually running on smooth and calm water up to now.
    The disc sander is a great bit of kit....didn't know that IKEA sold them too ๐Ÿ˜‰
    Rob.

    kit
    emoji-container
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The ladders
    4 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    Sorry Rob, (and any others wishing to purchase) IKEA don't sell disc sanders but LIDL do that's where I bought it๐Ÿ™„
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The ladders
    4 months ago by Colin H ( Commander)
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    Superb detail, keep up the wonderful work.
    Cheers Colin.๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ“ Re visit Rear upper deck & Aft cockpit deck
    5 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    I have decided that the rear upper deck and the rear aft cockpit will be a one piece unit. After see another boat with a similar set but not both decks were joined. This means that the upper deck and lower deck and the sides of the cockpit will all be joined forming a box. This has a number of benefits these are:-
    1. It makes a water tight compartment which can be emptied if required. (except for the removable hatch I did in the initial build, this will have to have an โ€œoโ€ ring type seal)
    2. It makes it easier to get to the servo area without taking all the smaller parts out e.g. foam tanks ladders etc.
    3. Fitting the ladders made easier with a single 10 BA bolt
    Disadvantages
    A lot more work!.

    Because the individual parts are already made and in some cases painted I need to make sure that all surfaces that will require gluing are suitably abraded before applying any type adhesive. Additional work will be required around the top edge of the cockpit to give a lip to stop any water from entering the servo area. I decide this would look nice in mahogany to match the floor edging, along with some corner pieces in polished brass this edging will also add substantial rigidity to the whole structure.
    The mahogany was cut from a spare piece of old table top to 9mm by 6mm and then a 1.5 mm x 2mm deep groove was cut along the length to slot onto the top of the box section. The corner brass pieces were fabricated from 0.5 mm brass sheet and the joints soft soldered with a strengthening piece underneath.

    The box section sides were already made and painted so had to have their edges prepared for gluing by removing a 2mm wide strip along each edge. The area where the box fits had to be prepared with spacers of 0.6 mm card and strips of baking sheet to stop the glue sticking to the sides of the boat. This method ensures that the box fits exactly in its hole.
    After epoxying the box section to consolidate the Rear upper deck & Aft cockpit deck I could then glue the mahogany rail to the top along with the brass corners this was left to set overnight. The top rail was then radiused to finish it off and a first coat of varnish applied


    โ€ƒ

    hatch
    piece
    baking sheet
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Re visit Rear upper deck & Aft cockpit deck
    4 months ago by stevedownunder ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Magnificent workmanship!
    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Paint prep
    5 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    Itโ€™s time to start looking at some paint preparation as this is something that can be done alongside some of the remaining jobs. I have spent hours glassing the hull and deck and the cabin roofs and then finishing to a standard for the first coats of primer, this was achieved by progressing through various grades of wet and dry from 400 to 800. This gives a good adhesion surface for the first primer coat. As I have said in previous posts I made as many parts detachable as was practical, so on the forward cabin roof (which is in itself detachable) all parts are removed leaving a relatively flat surface to prepare, the underside was masked and then put in the queue for painting. Mid cabin and rear cabin roofs - again all parts were removed and placed in the queue/turntable,
    Spraying is a hazardous process whatever type of paint you use, so itโ€™s essential that some sort of extraction is used and an appropriate face mask ( I use a P100 rated mask because it gives the highest level of protection in the widest variety of situations and will filter out 100% of both oil-based and non-oil-based particles.). This can also be used for most of my wood working activities, however; if this isnโ€™t an option for you then I suggest you spray outdoors. My spray booth is made from an old cooker hood mounted in my workshop with a table below. On this I used plain sheets of hardboard which I made temporary fixings to hold a box together. The extraction element was a piece of old clothes dryer flexible 4โ€ pipe which when Iโ€™m spraying hangs out of the window.
    Back to spraying, I use a compressor and small spray gun for this size of work so I purchased a litre of grey primer and 5 litres of thinners. I am no professional sprayer but have sprayed a number of cars in the past and I have learnt that once again โ€Less is moreโ€ so a number of light coats is better than one thick coat that runs, meaning lots of sanding and a repeat performance of painting. First three coats of grey primer applied and Iโ€™m pleased with how itโ€™s going. I took the opportunity to spray some of the other parts that were finished while the gun was full of primer. Spraying is one of those jobs which is over before itโ€™s begun yet the preparation seems to take weeks but it always pays off in the end.
    Next will be a top coat of Appliance White.

    sprayer
    primer
    box
    turntable
    gun
    spray gun
    clothes dryer
    compressor
    cars
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Paint prep
    5 months ago by robbob ( Captain)
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    Hi Mike.
    I think you've got the basis there for a very good finish, keep up the great work ๐Ÿ‘.
    Will you be able to fit the hull into your spray booth though?
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Paint prep
    5 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    Rob you've heard of a tight squeeze, well this is it. however its not really a problem as I also have a larger spray area in my garage with extraction so ill probably do it in there especially with the prospect of some warmer weather on its way.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Pulley blocks and Deck Rigging Screw Eyes
    6 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    Been away on holiday for a few weeks so not been doing much but back at it again -

    Pulley blocks
    The mast has a small pulley block on each end of the cross bar, but I wanted to have a go at making them so using some 0.5mm I marked out the profile and then bent the flat pieces into a channel this was followed by drilling an 8BA clearance hole through both sides. Next I machined the centre pulley out of brass with a 2mm rad to suit the rope I will be using; I also did an extra round dummy pulley in steel to use as the template to file the radius on the frame and use as a guide for the width of the block. Using a smooth file I carefully filed the radius on each piece using the dummy pulley as a guide and trimmed the width, this was followed using wet and dry paper to finish. To fasten the blocks to the cross bar they need a screw fastening on the top, this was done by soldering an 8BA nut on the top. Finally the brass pulley wheel was secured in place with an 8BA nut and bolt, with a threaded stud in the top.


    Deck rigging screw eyes - can be bought, but again, I had to have a go, so first I ground a tool to form the end ball which would also part the piece off after it had been turned and threaded. The bar was turned down to the thread o/d and then using an 8BA die the diameter was threaded. I then used the form tool to produce the ball end, this worked OK but could be improved on as the final turned finish wasnโ€™t as good as Iโ€™d hoped for, but I donโ€™t have time to spend on this as I only wanted six eyes so the diameters will be finished with a small file and wet and dry. Turned pieces finished, next I set up a gang of slitting saws to mill the flats, holding each part in a split threaded clamp in the machine vice the flats were milled in parallel. Finally using the same clamp jig the ball was drilled with a 2mm hole again to suit the 2mm rope. Thereโ€™s some final dressing to do before the parts are clear lacquered.

    pulley
    nut
    2mm rope
    machine
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Pulley blocks and Deck Rigging Screw Eyes
    6 months ago by figtree7nts ( Rear Admiral)
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    Great workmanship, Michael!

    Cheers, Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Pulley blocks and Deck Rigging Screw Eyes
    6 months ago by stevedownunder ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Beautiful workman ship.
    Cheers,
    Stephen.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Pulley blocks and Deck Rigging Screw Eyes
    6 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Excellent stuff๐Ÿ‘
    And a great tutorial as well.
    Thanks Michael๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Pulley blocks and Deck Rigging Screw Eyes
    6 months ago by Mariner85 ( Leading Seaman)
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    Beautiful workmanship! Great job.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Pulley blocks and Deck Rigging Screw Eyes
    6 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Superb workmanship as usual.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Pulley blocks and Deck Rigging Screw Eyes
    4 months ago by jbkiwi ( Captain)
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    Nice job, I can see you've done this before !?
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    ๐Ÿ“ Radio Aerial and Loud Hailer
    7 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    On the cabin roof is the radio aerial, the kit supplies a base in white metal, but to accommodate my aerial design I decided to machine my own out of brass. I wanted the pole to be tapered and with it being only 2mm dia I found the easiest way was to support the piece in a wooden block at the same height as the Dremel laid flat on the bench. With the piece rotating, I used a smooth file and grades of wet & dry to taper down to 0.75 dia. Next I machined the 2mm end down to 1.5mm to accept the spring, this spring will be soldered to a lower piece which then goes through the base and into the cabin where itโ€™s bolted in position. I decided to incorporate a spring to make sure it does not get accidently bent.
    Soft soldering was chosen, as the silver solder would have tempered the spring. The result was really better than I could have imagined.

    Loud Hailer
    Another heavy item, first job hollow out with the Dremel and then fill with polystyrene and top with Milliput and sculpt the shape โ€“result, the weight was halved. Next I made a frame in the same way as the one I did for the search light โ€“ (see search light)

    All the cabin furniture has to be mounted on the roof which is curved! I found the best way was to use Milliput. The method was as follows,
    1 Drill the hole for each item in the appropriate place
    2 Make sure the fastening method for each piece will hold the piece upright (I tapped the hole 8BA)
    3 Make a dividing piece from PTFE baking sheet circular for most items but oblong for the mast feet
    4 Roughen the surface where the items contact the cabin roof
    5 Place the divider on the items base
    6 Mix a small amount of Milliput
    7 Place a circular amount under each item
    8 put some Vaseline on the securing bolt so it doesnโ€™t stick
    9 Pull the item down to the desired height and fasten in position then trim around the bases
    10 When dry remove the item and the baking sheet, paint as required
    11 sorry if this is common knowledge

    kit
    items
    cabin furniture
    Milliput
    baking sheet
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Radio Aerial and Loud Hailer
    7 months ago by figtree7nts ( Rear Admiral)
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    Excellent work as always!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Radio Aerial and Loud Hailer
    7 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Another super job. By the way, the detail is really helpful for us students. Thanks.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Radio Aerial and Loud Hailer
    6 months ago by Rookysailor ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Well written build doc, nice and easy to understand,
    looking forward to the next post๐Ÿ‘

    Peter
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