Oldest posts shown first (Show Newest First) | (Print Booklet) |
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by π©πͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Greatπ So I guess you now have about 1.5S On and 1.5S OFF.
Glad you got there in the endπ Happy Flashing π² BTW: Post the video on You-Tube and put the link in the Video Gallery here then we can all see what you've been up to π Cheers, Doug π ▲
β©β©
Martin555
MouldBuilder
|
Login To
Remove Ads π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by ππΊ MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Thanks for the help Doug.
I only had a 10K resistor between 200K and 4.7K. I fitted it and the result was perfect. Before I did this, I fitted a 220K to R2. The result was a much longer on time and overall frequency. For a Police flashing blue light the 10K is perfect. I have now assembled the finished item ready for fitting. I did a short video of the breadboard setup but it was 60Mb so too big to send Thanks.π€π ▲
β©β©
Martin555
RNinMunich
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by π©πͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Hi Peter, Glad it works at all! π
1. the capacitor on pin 5 has no effect on the timing circuit. It's only there to stabilise the 555 chip and stop it 'going off it's trolley' at higher frequencies π it should be 10nano Farad, not micro Farad. It's job is to short any stray high frequencies to ground. 2. Attached is a table of results I would expect for the values you gave me, and various values of the pot R1. The duty cycle (%age On time) should vary between 50% and 95%. Max on time 1.4sec at R1 = 200K. But Off time of 32mSec you'll hardly notice.π€ 3. R2 is way too small at 4.7k compared to the 200k pot. I warned you that it needed to be similar to the pot to make the adjustment less sensitive. The low value is also the reason why the Off time (discharge time) is so short at 32.62mSec π² 4. The timing cct is governed by R1, R2 and C. Pic 2 shows the output waveform switched between Vcc 6V and 0V- Increase C to increase the whole period (T1+T0) (reduce the frequency). Increase R1 to increase High Time (T1), without affecting the Low Time (T0). Increase R2 to increase High Time (T1), increase Low Time (T0) and decrease the duty cycle. 5. Your 180Ohm resistor is about right for an LED with 2.5V Forward voltage drop and 20mA current. if the LED actually wants 30mA you can go down to a120Ohm. So, how much is 'increase the on time a little'? What cycle frequency do you want? How long On and how long Off? Since you are 'Breadboarding' you could just try plugging in different fixed resistors for R1 (instead of the fiddly pot) and R2. Pic 3 shows results for R1 = 47k and R2 = 100k, C = 10uF. About 1Sec ON, 0.7Sec Off. Cheers, Doug π ▲
β©β©
Martin555
MouldBuilder
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by ππΊ MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 74 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Evening Doug.
I have made up a couple of circuits. They both work well. I have fitted the variable resistor to your design and it works really well. The circuit components are as follows. R1=200k variable. R2= 4k7 resistor. Chip= 7555 CMOS. Capacitor after R2=10uf. Capacitor at pin 5 = 10uf. Single blue LED is 20mA with a 180r resistor. Battery voltage 6V. I have some strange results. The variable resistor works well but strangely, if I disconnect the capacitor at pin five, there is no effect to the flashing light at all. it still works well. There is also no effect if I increase or decrease the value. I am happy with the results but would like to increase the on time a little. Please can you tell me which component should be altered and whether the value rises or falls. Thanks for your help.π ▲
β©β©
Martin555
Donnieboy
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by π©πͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
Bon chance mon amiπ
▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by ππΊ MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
Hello Doug.
I will make the circuit as discussed so far and give you the results. I will try a few things and let you know how I get on. Thanks. ππ€ ▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by π©πͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
You mention LEDs (plural) so how many?
In series or parallel? π ▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by π©πͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
Hi Peter,
before I do any more example calcs I need to know what flash rate you want and what duty cycle. For example; 50% duty cycle = equal On and OFF times. Do you want one flash per second or what? Basically I would say that trim pots more than 100KOhm make adjustments very sensitive and difficult. R2 must be of similar value to the pot to minimise that effect. I typically use values of 4.7K, 10K and 100K. Anything more than 1uF with R1 and R2 in the hundreds of kOhms and you'll get a flash period of around 10 seconds or moreπ€ Are you still going to use an incandescent bulb π€ or an LED? Cheers, Doug π ▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by ππΊ MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 74 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Hi Doug.
It is a 1M pot. This is a single turn component. I also have 5k multi turn, 200k one turn, and 500k 1 turn. I have loads of resistors. 1,10 and 100uf capacitors.π The LED`s are 20mA. I have been reading the Tug lighting thread. interesting. Thanks. ▲
β©β©
Martin555
teejay
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by π©πͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 74 Views Β· 3 Likes
Flag
Evenin' Peter,
Imagine your pot as R1. What value is it by the way? I can't answer the second part of your question without knowing what value the pot is! To turn the pot into a simple variable resistor connect one end to the wiper, the middle pin. This end is then connected to Pin 7 of the 555 and to the top of R2. The 'open' end is connected to Vcc. 6V ? You can then vary R1 over the full range of the pot. Which is ??? Frequency (= flash rate F) is given by F=1/Cx(R1+2xR2). R's in Ohms, C's in microfarads. Examples: if your pot (R1) is 10kOhm, R2 is 10kOhm and C is 50uF you will get a frequency of 0.96Hz, as near as dammit 1 flash per second π² (Don't get arrested!π) Duty cycle will be about 66% i.e. 2/3 ON, 1/3 OFF. At the other extreme of the pot, i.e. Zero Ohm - F = 1.44Hz, Duty cycle is 50%; 347mSec ON, 347mSec OFF. Now you see why I need to know what value pot you have. C = 100uF would give you about 700mS ON, 700mS OFF with a 10k pot set to 0Ohm. At 10kOhm it would be about 1.4S ON, 0.7S OFF. Duty cycle 66% (2/3 On 1/3 OFF). Give me the component values you have and I can work out the pissibolities π²π Cheers, Doug π PS: CMOS is goodπ cos it can switch the full Vss voltage to the output. Just check that your bulbs do not draw more then 200mA or you'll pop the 555 output.π‘ Personally I would use LEDs which only need 20 to 30mA. Then we get into dropping resistors, which is already a topic with some tug builders hereπ ▲
β©β©
Martin555
MouldBuilder
watson220
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by ππΊ MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
Hi Doug. Still waiting for some components to arrive so that I can try this circuit on my breadboard. One question though. My trimmer pot has 3 contacts. I assume that the middle one is the wiper and the other two are the resistor. Do I connect pin 2, the middle one, to V+ and the other two in line to pin 7. Could you suggest values for R1 and R2. The capacitor in series with these, would 100uf be enough to start and if not enough, how many additional uf is required to make a difference. By the way, the chip is a 7555 CMOS. Thanks.π€
▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
Login To
Remove Ads π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by π©πͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
OK. But remeber the 555/556 outputs can only sink 200mA!!
If your 'blub' takes more at 6V you will need a transistor driver or a small relay on the output. Cheers Doug π ▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by ππΊ MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
Thanks Doug. I will try to digest the text and have a go.
I will be using a 6v bulb. Good job I cannot blow myself up with 6v.π€π±π ▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by π©πͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
Hi Peter, attached the pinout of the 555 and a circuit for an astable oscillator giving a square wave output suitable for a lamp flasher.
Frequency (flash rate) is defined by R1, R2 and C. The bigger the 'C' and/or R1 the slower the rate. R2 defines the discharge rate. Therefore the ratio of R1 +R2 to R2 defines the ratio of On / Off times! A little experimentation needed. You can put your pot in place of R1 for some flash rate (F)adjustment. F=1/Cx(R1+2xR2). If you want to get really 'snazzy' you can use the 555 in monostable mode (pic 3) and use the pulse output from an RX channel as the trigger input. You may need to add a series capacitor and a resistor to ground (try a 10K to start with) to slow the trigger down a bit and experiment with the capacitor, a small electrolytic or Tantalum. it helps if you have an oscilloscope for such experiments! A cheap analogue 100Khz or 1Mhz job would do. The astable version is simpler, just put a remote controllably switch e.g. transistor switch board or, even simpler, just a microswitch mounted on a servoπ) in series with the Vcc (+ supply) to the timer chip. It takes longer for the first flash after switch on to occur as the cap has to charge up from 0V to 2/3 Vcc. After that only from 1/3 Vcc to 2/3. Ratio of ON time to OFF time depends on R1 and R2. ON=Cx(R1+R2), OFF=CxR2. Happy soldering and Flashing π², cheers, Doug π PS: are your 555s bipolar or CMOS? Makes a difference! Bipolar types only drive the output to Vcc-1.7V. CMOS types drive the output to full Vccπ PPS: One other point! is your 'Blue Lamp' a bulb or an LED? If an LED you will need a resistor in series with the output to limit the current to a max of about 30mA. Start with 1KOhm, if too dim go down to around 220/270Ohms. ▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by π©πͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Thought as much π 555 8 pin DIL, 556 a 2-in-1 job 14 pin DIL.
Very versatile chips, bin around almost as long as me π ▲
β©β©
Martin555
MouldBuilder
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by ππΊ MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
I have both.π
▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by π©πͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
Perchance a '555' or '556' timer chip ?
π ▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by ππΊ MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
Thanks for your help again Doug.
It is the circuit diagrams I have difficulty with. I can make the circuit with one. I particularly have trouble with the ic`s as to which terminals to use. I want to use a timer chip to flash the blue light, with a variable resistor pot to adjust the frequency. (Something like that anyway). I will dig out the circuit diagram I used to make a trafic stop signal for a railway crossing. I was hoping to adapt this one.π€ ▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by π©πͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
BTW; re your query about filler and acrylic paints:-
Any 'standard' polyester type filler will do but be sure to let it cure completely so that all the 'smelly' components, including peroxide from the hardener have evaporated. For small surface nicks I often use 'Green Putty' or Revell 'Plasto'. Doesn't need mixing and is very fine and smooth and NO PONGπ Then apply a primer to match the top coat paint you are using. happy filling, cheers Doug π ▲
β©β©
Martin555
MouldBuilder
|
π¬ Seeing the light
6 years ago by π©πͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Nice tidy work Peter π,
Good jointing, sign of some well cared for sharp tools π I use Tamiya tape as well. Gives a good clean edge and the glue does not attack painted and varnished surfaces. So if the underlying paint was applied over a good primer it shouldn't lift at all. As to how long to let dry; check your paint can for info about 'touch dry' and 'can be overpainted after ...' times. To be in the safe side don't apply the tape at the 'touch dry' time, wait a coupla hours more. Leaving to dry (and harden in the sun or under a halogen lamp) speeds things up a bit π Also, don't apply paint too thick otherwise it can go touch dry on top (skinning) but still be soft underneath - then masking tape may lift it more easily π€ Can you pdf or jpeg me your circuit diagram please? Sounds interesting π Cheers, Doug π ▲
β©β©
Martin555
MouldBuilder
|
π¬ Painting.
6 years ago by π©πͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Evenin' Neville,
For a first attempt spraying that's damn goodπ I prefer to use a 0.8mm nozzle for 'big' areas such as hulls. 0.5 for the 'fine' stuff, e.. cabins and fittings, which I still need to practice! Will need it when I come to the cammo pattern for PT109. Practice makes perfect they say! Basic rules (THEY also sayπ) are- Paint consistency should remind you of milk (no cream!), Don't get to close, Don't move too slow! Keep up the good workπ Cheers, Doug π ▲
β©β©
Martin555
MouldBuilder
|
Login To
Remove Ads π¬ Painting.
6 years ago by ππΊ MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 74 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Hi Doug.
Thanks. You are right about the first aid. Clumsy. Good that my wife is a nurse me thinks.π No. This is my first attempt at spraying anything like this. That is why I ask a lot of questions. I try to build up knowledge and the courage to have a go. I was lucky this time, so far anyway. it is not perfect by any stretch, nothing like yours, but I am relatively happy with it. Takes quite a while with a 0.5mm nozzle but once you get going, you soon learn that the paint does not go on too thick so the chances of it running are less, I think. ▲
β©β©
Martin555
Donnieboy
|
π¬ Painting.
6 years ago by π©πͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Looking good Pete, looking forward to the trials picsπ
Wow! What a sprayer! Do you do cars or full size boats as well? BTW: 'Every picture tells a story'!? Plasters and antiseptic cream close to hand!? π² ▲
β©β©
Martin555
MouldBuilder
|
π¬ Fitting
6 years ago by π©πͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
"But, Mousie, thou art no thy-lane,
In proving foresight may be vain; The best-laid schemes o' mice an' men Gang aft agley, An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain, For promis'd joy!" Poor little homeless mouse π squeak squeak! Your pump sounds like one intended for a small fountain. Look for one which is specced as 'Self priming'. Car windscreen washer pumps from the scrap yard do the job, most need 12V though. Graupner & Co do some small 6V jobs. Next time plasti-card for the superstructure!? Cheers, Doug π Oh, and for the rest of us Sassenachs amongst us, the modern English version- "But Mouse, you are not alone, In proving foresight may be vain: The best laid schemes of mice and men Go often askew, And leave us nothing but grief and pain, For promised joy!" ▲
β©β©
Martin555
MouldBuilder
|
π¬ Re: Fitting out.
2 years ago by ππΊ MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 37 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
An update Mike.
I have now trialled the Police Launch and can now answer your concern. The water does not get forced up the tube when the pump is idle. The pump must stop this from happening. I am lucky I think. Peter.π ▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
Login To
Remove Ads π¬ Re: Fitting out.
4 years ago by ππΊ MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
Thanks Mike.
I have not had it in the water since I fitted the pump. I will let you know in the spring. ▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
π¬ Re: Fitting out.
4 years ago by π¬π§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
A nice looking boat, I notice you have your fire monitor piped through a pump which gets its supply from a pick up behind the prop. Is water forced through the pump and finally to the monitor when the pump isn't powered up? Something you may only notice when the boats moving and not always obvious.
▲
β©β©
Martin555
MouldBuilder
|
π¬ Re: Adding glazing and fittings
4 years ago by π³πΏ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 74 Views Β· 3 Likes
Flag
Martin's correct, - grab rails for when you're walking on deck. Looking good so far!
JB ▲
β©β©
Julio
Martin555
MouldBuilder
|
π¬ Re: Adding glazing and fittings
4 years ago by π¬π§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 73 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
Ref:- "Just a quick silly question. What are the two slotted rails on the roof for?"
I think they are hand rails. I have just looked back on this build log as i have now just seen it. It is a very nice tidy neat looking boat. You have done an excellent job so far, keep it up. Martin555. ▲
β©β©
MouldBuilder
|
π¬ Re: Motor alignment
3 years ago by ππΊ MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 68 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
I am lucky Bill. I had nearly fifty years to learn what I know now. Model making is really different though so I have a lot more to learn. You just have to look at Mikes (mturpin013) work to see what can be done. I can make mould tools for N gauge locomotives and wagons amongst many other things but believe me, this is a different challenge all together.π
▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
Login To
Remove Ads π¬ Re: Motor alignment
3 years ago by π¬π§ Scratchbuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 70 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Peter.
I have my lathe and use it well,but wish I had the lathe skills you have π. Regards Bill. ▲
β©β©
Martin555
MouldBuilder
|
π¬ Re: Motor alignment
3 years ago by π¬π§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 69 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
So close now Peter.
Martin555. ▲
β©β©
MouldBuilder
|
π¬ Re: Fittings
3 years ago by ππΊ MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 54 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Hi Pete,
The paint is a Humbrol acrylic spray. I donβt usually use Humbrol as I find it difficult to get a good finish. Must use my air brush more but I am too lazy to clean it.π¬ ▲
β©β©
Rookysailor
Martin555
|
Login To
Remove Ads π¬ Re: Fittings
3 years ago by π¬π§ Rookysailor ( Commodore)
β§ 75 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Very nice paint job on the boards Peter, nice colour blue too, what paint did you use?
Cheers, Peteπ ▲
β©β©
MouldBuilder
Martin555
|
π¬ Re: Fittings
3 years ago by π¬π§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 59 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Looks really good Peter.
I bet you are really looking forward to seeing her in the water after all your hard work. Martin555. ▲
β©β©
Rookysailor
MouldBuilder
|
π¬ Re: Fittings
3 years ago by π³πΏ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 62 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
That's looking excellent Peter, nice work. When cutting balsa across the grain, I find that a box cutter with the snap-off blades will work well. Use a steel rule and hold it down firmly on the balsa. You might find that it's best to nick the back edge of the cut first (cut straight down like a guillotine) by about 5 mm as this should stop it breaking out. With soft balsa (sounds like it might be what you have) you could try putting masking tape over where you want to cut, and marking your cut on that, then cutting through the tape.
Main thing is a using knife which is razor sharp eg a new box cutter, and cut on a 45deg angle. If you cut with the blade at say 90 deg, the balsa will chip - (you're trying to scratch rather than cut). Medium balsa cuts the best, soft chips easily, and firm is harder to cut without splitting. JB ▲
β©β©
MouldBuilder
Martin555
|
π¬ Re: Fittings
3 years ago by π¨π¦ Newby7 ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 63 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Well done Peter You said you had trouble with balsa. That's why I much prefer basswood as it for me is easier to work with. The build is coming nicely.
Rick ▲
β©β©
MouldBuilder
Martin555
|
π¬ Re: Final Fittings, Almost
2 years ago by π³πΏ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 37 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
Hi Peter, missed your question sorry. I used car window tint on my Hartley cabin boat, but I applied that before fitting the screens. Might be too hard to do it later, as it requires a bit of force on a flat surface to expel any air bubbles.
JB ▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
Login To
Remove Ads π¬ Re: Final Fittings, Almost
2 years ago by π¬π§ Scratchbuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 43 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Hi
Peter. Looking really good as your progress continues. Satisfying to see such a good build. Regards Bill. PS. Congratulations on your promotion. Only the one cruise ship in the bay as we speak. ▲
β©β©
MouldBuilder
Martin555
|
π¬ Re: Final Fittings, Almost
3 years ago by π¬π§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 49 Views Β· 2 Likes
Flag
Hi Peter,
Congratulations on your promotion Rear Admiral. Well deserved and now you have Police escort too. Martin555. ▲
β©β©
Scratchbuilder
MouldBuilder
|
π¬ Re: Final Fittings, Almost
3 years ago by π¬π§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 50 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
Peter,
As long as you mask off what you don't want painted then i don't see why not. Martin555. ▲
β©β©
MouldBuilder
|
π¬ Re: Final Fittings, Almost
3 years ago by ππΊ MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
β§ 53 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
Thanks Jb. I am happy with the results.
Can I smoke the windows now? Do you think it is possible? Peter.π ▲
β©β©
Martin555
|
π¬ Re: Final Fittings, Almost
3 years ago by π¬π§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 50 Views Β· 1 Like
Flag
Great work Peter,
Will you be smoking the windows a little ? And i don't mean using the electrics to do it. LOL!! Martin555. ▲
β©β©
MouldBuilder
|
π¬ Re: Final Fittings, Almost
3 years ago by π³πΏ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
β§ 52 Views Β· 3 Likes
Flag
Hi Peter, you've done a beautiful job on the modelππ looking forward to seeing it on the water. I wouldn't worry about small imperfections, - if you've seen a boat with no imperfections, it probably hasn't been used yet, ( some super yachts are pretty rough up close - and especially under all the flash stuff. )
JB ▲
β©β©
Scratchbuilder
MouldBuilder
Martin555
|