Hi Guys,
I have been asked about a build log for HMS Cottesmore.
Well this is a first for me as I have not done this before, so if I get things wrong please tell me.

I worked in a shipyard for 25 years and it was there that I first saw an MCMV being built.
There was something about her that made me say to myself " one day I will make a model of her.
Some years later I managed to get hold of some plans and attempted to make the hull without much success, so the idea was put on hold.
About 3 years ago I was looking on the web I discovered a fibreglass hull at 1/48 scale, that then started me of again.
So I purchased the Hull and running gear from Fleetscale and made a start.
The first job was to install the bow thruster using two part epoxy.
Then laminated some strips of plastic card for the bilge keels,shaped them and attached them with some small self tapping screws and epoxy glue.
Then the two prop shafts and A frames.

Hi Guys,
Before I start I would like to thank everybody for the fantastic comments that I have received it is much appreciated.

I have and will continue to gloss over parts of the build as I do not wish to seem to be teaching the more experienced model makers how to suck eggs.
However if any body has any questions I will do my best to answer them.

So let's go.
Next to get some treatment was the twin rudders, the rudder posts were positioned and glued with two part epoxy.
The next stage was to glue some strips of wood along the length of the hull to give me something to attach the deck to.
I am lucky to know somebody that laminates fibre glass so with his guidance I was able to make the two decks.(sweep deck and main deck.)
After cutting and shaping them I then glue some pieces of plastic card on to the deck in various places so that it made it easier for me to find the locations of some parts later on in the build.
The decks were then primed with car primer, then the sweep deck was then glued in place and the gaps filled with car body filler sanded and primed again.
It was then that I had to start doing some detail work as if I fitted the main deck it would be extremely difficult to do.

Hi Guys,
It's at this stage of the build that I had to start thinking at least three steps ahead as there is nothing more annoying than when you discover that you should of done this or that before you glued something down.
So the plan was to figure what I wanted where such as motors, ESC's, servos and how I was going to wire it all up.
Now that the sweep deck was glued in place i needed to make some cutouts in the sweep deck, one so that I could get at the rudder linkage and one for the prop shaft couplings.
Also I wanted to be able to get everything in and out just in case I needed to repair anything.
The decision was made to mount everything on removable trays that would be screwed down, and so that they would always go back in the same position I used location dowels and the hole tray must go through the opening.
So there's a lot of figuring out to do. In the meantime I started on some detail work.
Water tight doors first then some other bits and pieces.
The doors were made using two layers of plastic card and brass wire.
Then I put on the main deck and held it in place with masking tape.
I know that it made it a little more difficult but if l could not get it in through the opening then that plan would not work.
Here are a few photos of the removable trays as I was trying to figure it all out.
And some of the sweep deck.
The advantage of only taping the main deck down was that I could remove it to be able to glue the fixing positions down, and make sure that I could still get at everything.

Hi Guys,
I decided that I would try and get some of the big bits made, so as I had plenty of plastic card the main superstructure was first followed by the bridge then funnel and main mast.
All the above was only roughly assembled so that I could get an idea of how it would look.
The final trimming, filling, and sanding would be done as and when I worked on each assembly.
The way I tend to work on my models is as follows.
Try to make individual modules then work on one module at a time until completed then move on to the next.
The only reason I do this is that at my age I tend to forget bits, and if I were to move about over different parts of the boat I can guarantee that that I would miss something or put something on in the wrong place.
The photos show the rough assembly, I will post the completed assembly's as I get further along with this log.
Whilst I am waffling on I do have a little tip/trick that I use often.
I use tracing paper (baking sheet) I mark out the lines or shape on the paper then put a small drop off plastic glue on the line then position the first part, after a short time the glue sets then I place the next part of the assembly on the sheet and glue that In position.
When the assembly is complete and dry it is just a case of gently removing the baking sheet, then removing the small bits of glue with a scalpel.
You can see this method works well in one of the photos.
(part of the bridge assembly)

Hi Guys,
Back again with another instalment to the log.
Whilst still playing around with the plastic card the mezzanine deck was next.
Cut out the deck to shape, and then made the deck support beams these were made from 5mm strips of plastic card glued to form a square.
It was a little tricky but with the aide of one of the wife's knitting needles that fitted nicely in side I was able to get them mostly square.
I had to make this deck so that it was removable that way I could still get at the sweep deck openings, also because I wanted to have white and red lighting I had to come up with a way that they could be powered when the mezzanine deck was fitted.
The solution was to use some PCB Headers that way when I placed the mezzanine deck on it would just plug in.
The wife never did get her knitting needle back as I cut it up into small pieces and used it for the location pins on the deck support pillars (luckily to this day she has still not noticed it missing and when she does I will blame the dog.)
You can see in the photos the PCB Headers and how It comes apart, I was not to fussy about the wiring of the surface mount LED's as when fitted it is difficult to see them.

Hi Guys,
This part of the log covers the main 30mm gun and mount.
Made from yogurt pots and a BBQ stick and a small piece of brass wire as you can see in the photos. (Before and after)
I modified a standard servo to continually rotate I also glued two micro switches on to the servo body As limit switches plus a couple of diodes, it now rotates approximately 290 degrees (Bridge wing to bridge wing).
The servo is a snug fit in a small box glued in to the hull so if required it can be removed, the gun also can be removed as I have fitted location pins on the servo arm and the gun also has a servo arm fitted to the base that locates directly on to it.
I hope that my explanation makes sense!.
The video is 'hidden' in the Invalid File. To view-
Click on the Invalid image,
Then click the Download button, white arrow on blue background at top left.
Windows (App?) offers the choice of View or Save.
View with Media Player or equivalent.

Hi Guys,
Now on to the Bridge.
Constructed from plastic card I used the baking sheet method to help with the angles, I did not fit the deck head until last as I needed to have red and white LED's and the shaft for the radar, it was then that I noticed that the windows were too small to see much of the interior but big enough to see an empty bridge.
So I had to knock up some sort of bits, most of it was from memory and a photo.
I decided not to be to fussy but put enough in just in case someone was to look in.
Here are a few photos unfortunately I did not take many of the main construction.

Hi Guys,
As I mentioned the Bridge in my last log I thought that I would cover the Radar on top of the Bridge.
As you may have gathered I quite like working with plastic card, so making the Radar was just a case of gluing some layers of card together and shaping.
To make the Radar turn I modified a standard servo to continually rotate and by adjusting the pot slightly I managed to get it to rotate clockwise one full rotation at a speed of approximately two seconds.
It seemed to be the correct speed, as I have seen on many models the Radars spin like a helicopters rotor blades and to me that is not correct.
The video is 'hidden' in the Invalid File. To view-
Click on the Invalid image,
Then click the Download button, white arrow on blue background at top left.
Windows (App?) offers the choice of View or Save.
View with Media Player or equivalent.
Martin

Hi Guys,
This section is on the funnel and intakes.
Constructed from plastic card and a bit of electrical wire.
There is not much I can say about the construction really.
Made a basic frame then bent the plastic card around it to form the funnel then made the intake box section, attached it to the funnel.
Cut out the vent areas, made vents glued them in.
Made the hand rails and fitted in place.
The lions were cutout from 0.5mm plastic card shaped and sanded,painted then glued in place.
Fitted deck light LED's
And that's about it.
If you do have any questions about this log then please contact me and I will do my best to answer them.

Martin.

Hi Guys,
I thought that today I would post some photos of some deck fittings.
Mostly made from plastic food containers and wood doweling and of course electrical wire.
The fire hoses are just strips of clothing material painted red , and the hose baskets are strips of yogurt pot.
The straps on the decoys are made the same way.
The anchor chains are not exactly to scale but that was all I had.
Sonar cover winch attached to the superstructure made from wood,wire and plastic is only glued to the superstructure and not glued to the deck so that the superstructure can be removed.
Sonar cover is layers of plastic shaped and sanded.

Plastic food containers are good for some of the detail work as you can get it in deferent thickness.

Martin.