Direction finder built and working. Brass part of linkage should me on photo5, the motor used was small geared 30rpm motor with speed controlled by preset voltage reducer on veroboard third photo. Video of d/f running on test. Second photo of pump support and fourth photo of pump fitted in position. Have changed original voltage controller not happy with operation. So now fitted a 5 volt regulator to supply a small esc connected to the throttle control. This gives me a trickle of water out on start and a progressive increase in flow as propellor speeds up. Am busy now on the last working addition trying to make an anchor winch with a free flow drop and rewind up. Should be done for next week hopefully, then on to the lighting system.
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Direction finder built and working. Brass part of linkage should me on photo5, the motor used was small geared 30rpm motor with speed controlled by preset voltage reducer on veroboard third photo. Video of d/f running on test. Second photo of pump support and fourth photo of pump fitted in position. Have changed original voltage controller not happy with operation. So now fitted a 5 volt regulator to supply a small esc connected to the throttle control. This gives me a trickle of water out on start and a progressive increase in flow as propellor speeds up. Am busy now on the last working addition trying to make an anchor winch with a free flow drop and rewind up. Should be done for next week hopefully, then on to the lighting system.
I like the working D/F Loop in the video, that's is nice work.
I am looking forward to seeing your future log updates.
Your Milford Star is coming together nicely.
keep up the good work.
First photo is an attiny IC kindly made and programmed for me by martin 555 to send a message in Morse code from the Morse signal lamp. Commenced building various vero boards circuits, from left after martin’s IC the first is the two unequal cycle timers for the d/f and Morse light. Second is the variable voltage controller for water pump and direction finder. Third is switching controller on throttle to bring on d/f, water pump and smoke generator. Fourth is a voltage regulator three of them two 6volts for lights and smoke generator and one 5volts for Morse lamp. Fifth is unequal cycle timer to simulate flickering boiler fire working with smoke generator, (Tried flickering leds but not happy with them). Also have a quad switch for lights and single switch for horn from action electronics. Unable to find that type of circuit to build so had to buy them.
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First photo is an attiny IC kindly made and programmed for me by martin 555 to send a message in Morse code from the Morse signal lamp. Commenced building various vero boards circuits, from left after martin’s IC the first is the two unequal cycle timers for the d/f and Morse light. Second is the variable voltage controller for water pump and direction finder. Third is switching controller on throttle to bring on d/f, water pump and smoke generator. Fourth is a voltage regulator three of them two 6volts for lights and smoke generator and one 5volts for Morse lamp. Fifth is unequal cycle timer to simulate flickering boiler fire working with smoke generator, (Tried flickering leds but not happy with them). Also have a quad switch for lights and single switch for horn from action electronics. Unable to find that type of circuit to build so had to buy them.
Have continued with deck fittings.power switch fitted in deck and front hatch made to hide switch. Fish pond, hatch, trawl boards, winch and stern duck boards all completed and varnished. Bow railings made on template and painted as well as funnel and side gallows also completed. Water tanks have made on printer get nice rectangle cubes to size and painted ready for fittings.
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Have continued with deck fittings.power switch fitted in deck and front hatch made to hide switch. Fish pond, hatch, trawl boards, winch and stern duck boards all completed and varnished. Bow railings made on template and painted as well as funnel and side gallows also completed. Water tanks have made on printer get nice rectangle cubes to size and painted ready for fittings.
Very nice indeed.
It's the detail work that people see is the most time consuming and rewarding part of the build.
You are doing a fantastic job keep it up.
Have decided rather than the follow the instruction to build each section. I am going to build most of the deck fittings before going further in the build. Some of the instruction are a bit vague and the drawing is not to scale, it will be easier to place items if already assembled. Have also made the small steps for access to superstructure from the deck as the drawing does not show any. Made with some old railing wire and plastic card chequered plate. Saw them on an old photo of the Sir Lancelot which was of the same class. Have fitted smoke generator in funnel and also fitted 2mm studs on base of funnel for better fixing to superstructure. The funnel is made from plastic drain pipe same diameter as the styrene pieces. The loudspeaker box will be fitted in the stern below the wooden slats where the ships boat sits this one is for the steam sound generator. As I didn’t like the printed sheets for fish pond and hatches have made them from strips of walnut and lime wood the same with the trawl boards. Fishpond will also be used as battery cover and front hatch will be the removable cover for the power on/off switch, the superstructure hatch is the cover over the steam whistle loudspeaker which will be fitted in the superstructure.
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Have decided rather than the follow the instruction to build each section. I am going to build most of the deck fittings before going further in the build. Some of the instruction are a bit vague and the drawing is not to scale, it will be easier to place items if already assembled. Have also made the small steps for access to superstructure from the deck as the drawing does not show any. Made with some old railing wire and plastic card chequered plate. Saw them on an old photo of the Sir Lancelot which was of the same class. Have fitted smoke generator in funnel and also fitted 2mm studs on base of funnel for better fixing to superstructure. The funnel is made from plastic drain pipe same diameter as the styrene pieces. The loudspeaker box will be fitted in the stern below the wooden slats where the ships boat sits this one is for the steam sound generator. As I didn’t like the printed sheets for fish pond and hatches have made them from strips of walnut and lime wood the same with the trawl boards. Fishpond will also be used as battery cover and front hatch will be the removable cover for the power on/off switch, the superstructure hatch is the cover over the steam whistle loudspeaker which will be fitted in the superstructure.
I have done the same in the past, I have skipped sections and done some of the detail work just to keep me from getting bogged down with the same old same old feeling.
The only problem is keeping track of what you have or have not done, or maybe it's just me.LOL!!
Now got motor mounted am using a five pole, speed will be fast enough and these motors run quieter better to hear sound generator. Have put in supports for extra fittings, also added some cross pieces just to stiffen up the hull. Cut out the holes in bulwarks for doors and added two extra at stern for bollards. Base is also fitted for battery boxes with a piece of 50x6mm flat bar for ballast will add more at later stage if required. Drilled and fitted the intake for the cooling water. (Caused a bit of bother when checking out water line for ballast. Had the deck on with all the parts spread on deck didn’t need any ballast, till I found a lot of water ballast. Forgot to seal the input pipe.oh dear!!) Have fitted a piece of trunking along the side for the cables.
Decks fitted out. Bow piece has 2 plastic tubes 5mm I/d fitted to hold leds for interior lighting with hole out at anchor winch for access to lights two blocks with inserts for fastening down winch.
Wheelhouse also cut at bottom as going to be removable for access to lamps etc.
White plastic on deck is for holding battery cover in place. Cutout for power on/off switch and a bit of extra support for forward mast also extra support on stern as that is for sound loudspeaker.
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Now got motor mounted am using a five pole, speed will be fast enough and these motors run quieter better to hear sound generator. Have put in supports for extra fittings, also added some cross pieces just to stiffen up the hull. Cut out the holes in bulwarks for doors and added two extra at stern for bollards. Base is also fitted for battery boxes with a piece of 50x6mm flat bar for ballast will add more at later stage if required. Drilled and fitted the intake for the cooling water. (Caused a bit of bother when checking out water line for ballast. Had the deck on with all the parts spread on deck didn’t need any ballast, till I found a lot of water ballast. Forgot to seal the input pipe.oh dear!!) Have fitted a piece of trunking along the side for the cables.
Decks fitted out. Bow piece has 2 plastic tubes 5mm I/d fitted to hold leds for interior lighting with hole out at anchor winch for access to lights two blocks with inserts for fastening down winch.
Wheelhouse also cut at bottom as going to be removable for access to lamps etc.
White plastic on deck is for holding battery cover in place. Cutout for power on/off switch and a bit of extra support for forward mast also extra support on stern as that is for sound loudspeaker.
Hi guys I thought I would try to do a blog on the Caldercraft Milford Star I am building. As a retired maintenance electrician I had to have something to occupy my time and always fancied model boats. So am now in the second year of my model boat apprenticeship.
All advice and comments are welcome as some mistakes will be made along the road.
I have started by coating the inside of the hull with body filler and smoothing down. This should give the deck support a better grip, and easier to do now than when the deck is in position for smooth bulkheads.Have fitted extra support to rudder shaft and longer prop shaft to get motor more central.
Will also be doing other extras as I go along.
Especially with all the hull space just asking to be filled.
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Hi guys I thought I would try to do a blog on the Caldercraft Milford Star I am building. As a retired maintenance electrician I had to have something to occupy my time and always fancied model boats. So am now in the second year of my model boat apprenticeship.
All advice and comments are welcome as some mistakes will be made along the road.
I have started by coating the inside of the hull with body filler and smoothing down. This should give the deck support a better grip, and easier to do now than when the deck is in position for smooth bulkheads.Have fitted extra support to rudder shaft and longer prop shaft to get motor more central.
Will also be doing other extras as I go along.
Especially with all the hull space just asking to be filled.
Hi Elsrickle, Nice choice of boat, have built the Caldercraft Sir Kay, which I believe is the same hull as the Milford Star. Be careful of moving the motor forward, I believe the short prop tube is so the motor can make more room for batteries, Caldercraft are pretty good on their instructions.😐
I am looking forward to seeing your future log updates.
Your Milford Star is coming together nicely.
keep up the good work.
Martin555.
JB