Have managed to complete the masts and final parts of the build just got a couple of flags to fix to funnel. When the weather gets a bit better will get it in the local lake.

Have at last almost finished the superstructure, just the mizzen sail and funnel emblem to make and fit. All lighting system done fitted and with multi pin plug for lights and JR plug for d/f motor.
Loudspeaker is for the ships horn. Decking is done same as main deck and wheelhouse done with planking same as forecastle front. Hard to see but small figure in wheelhouse at the helm. Funnel is fitted with smoke generator. Main mast same as foremast made in sections on printer just so both would match.

Decided to fit planking instead of the printed sheets, and also planked the forecastle entrance. This is held in position with two magnets at each end as I require access to anchor winch. After glueing down the planking with half mill spacing I then coated the gaps with dark wood filler and when dry sanded off to give the caulking effect between planks. Then finished with a satin varnish. Have glued down deck and fitted the bulkhead fillets also most of the fittings on main deck and fore deck.

Some of the circuits I built on veroboard board using circuit drawings I found on the net. Steam sound generator is MRW, whistle, single and quad switch are from action.
Voltage regulars I built, drive switching circuitry for pump, smoke generator, d/f and Morse lamp. I built also the cycle timers for d/f,Morse lamp and boiler fire lights.
So I don’t get too mixed up with all the bits. The engine sound, smoke generator, boiler fire lights and water pump come on when prop runs forward or reverse, the d/f and Morse have each got a cycle timer of different times and run only when prop runs forward.
Then the only things I need to switch are the lights on quad switch and single switch for the sound. Motor, rudder, anchor and quad switch are on joysticks so still have a spare channel at the moment.
I would like to make my on quad switch and sound generators but can’t find circuit drawing anywhere.

Various photos here of the electrics. Have fitted some electrical trunking down each side it helps keep the cables tidy. Have also fitted a 20amp 6volt auto relay which is operated by hidden switch on deck which controls all power to electrics. Small 2 amp fuse fitted to safeguard the ancillary equipment. For ease in binding have installed a switch in binding plug link then you don’t have to mess about plugging in and out the bind plug, it will be fitted opposite the fuse holder at top of battery compartment. On the top opening where superstructure fits have a 9 pin socket for electrics in superstructure as well as loose plug for d/f motor supply.( would have liked to fit pc board connectors but not sure what to get so went this route instead.)

For the linkage system I used 8mm x 1mm brass sheet, the first piece from the servo I tapped a M2 hole at servo end with a flat washer between the servo this is then adjusted for free movement and secured with a lock nut. Second angle piece had both holes tapped M2 and again fitted with flat washer and fastened with locknut.
The pivot piece I soldered a brass tube in centre as seen in photo also had to add spacer pillar of 10 mm to get correct height as a straight pull on pillar is required so no twist on pivot as with the magnet pull there is a lot of strain hence the reason for upgrading from micro servo to 3kg servo. This is fitted with thick washer and nyloc nut to allow free movement but not sloppy.
The final part of the linkage is the most critical this is 2mm brass rod with a long thread for adjustment and ease of fitting, other end is 6mm dia x 2mm thick brass disc also tapped M2 and screwed onto the rod then soldered for for security. Next the two brass pillars one drilled for the rod the other solid both have 1mm shoulders and tapped M2 with the link approx 12mm between centres (may change according to servo movement) on top to move freely on pillars.
The hole going through the motor mounting for the rod also tapped M2 with locknuts either side to keep secure. This must be exactly below the centre of the motor shaft to ensure a straight pull from the magnet drum.
The operation of servo. When magnet is against chain drum and servo in neutral position inside pillar should be resting against disc on the rod. When servo moves to down position it should pull the the magnet totally free from the chain drum and allow the it to revolve freely the motor at this stage will also turn but if servo is fully over should not affect the free fall. When the servo is returned to neutral position the outside pillar will tap the disc on the rod and the magnet pull draws the magnet drum back home. Now when the servo goes to the raised position the linkage slides along but does not press on disc and the motor will be raising the anchor. Bother motor and servo are connected to same receiver plug. The speed controller allows inching of the anchor as it comes home. Adjusting servo movement on transmitter is not advisable as it will effect motor speed. Best to adjust linkage to get correct.
Hope this is all clear any queries with this just ask and I will try to help.
Elsrickle

As you can see this is made mostly with printer but am sure could be made with wood or plastic. The base has a slot 8mm wide by 5mm thick a hole 1.8mm goes through it and the sliding motor mount 1.5mm wire is used as guide and holds the mount in place the wire is also held in position with the small keeper block. The mount must be able to slide freely with no tight spots. Pictures show wire in base and on mount.
Next chain drum and drive disc have 2.1mm hole all the way through for 2mm brass shaft the 3mm hole drill 10mm deep in drive drum at motor end. The motor then gets fitted on sliding platform. On drive drum face drill 2 holes 6mm Dia and 3mm deep, 180 degs apart for magnets. These are then glued in with a bed of epoxy adhesive as in photo, where the 2mm shaft goes through drill a recess 5mm Dia and 2mm deep for cable drum retaining ring. Also drill a hole 1.5mm Dia about 5mm from end of motor side of drum and tap for M2 grub screw for holding motor shaft. Now fix drum on to motor.
At chain drum side cut a thin piece of tin and glue to face of drum this I used super glue and a mall brass nail fitted for a bit of extra security as in photo. Two 1mm holes drilled through the centre length of the drum very close to the outside diameter and clear of centre shaft. A piece of copper wire can be fed through one hole the chain link fed through the copper wire and the wire is fed through the other hole then the two twisted together or soldered to hold chain in centre of drum.
Now 2mm brass rod is pushed through the drum ( I fitted 2 x 2mm flat washers at this point between mounting bracket and chain drum to ensure the drum did not rub on bracket) making sure sure the drum spins very freely the rod is pushed through the hole in the motor drum until it meets the motor shaft then push hard to slide the motor to end stop. Now slowly push motor forward towards the chain drum (fully open gap between drum 7-10mm) when fully home fit holding sleeve on brass rod at outside of bracket and tighten grub screw this should give the correct length for rod. Now push motor back to end and make sure shaft is still in motor drum. If not adjust until it is still in shaft Next push chain drum back against washers and shaft pushed towards motor make a saw cut in brass rod to mark drum position now remove shaft and make a brass ring to fit tightly on saw cut on shaft and solder then clean all solder from chain drum side of shaft refit and check drum still runs freely adjust as required when sure cut off brass rod as photo
The base I made is 120 x 50mm x 5mm, chain drum 30mm x 25mm Dia, mountings were 28mm high x20mm wide. Will continue with linkage setup next. Any questions or ideas please feel free to let me know.

Here is video of anchor working from boat. Couldn’t get the two videos in same blog.

This is now the the mark six version(previous versions scrapped) after various attempts I found the use of magnets for the clutch the most reliable. The drum with the chain has a metal disc made from top of soup tin as this was thin and light, superglued to drum with a small brass nail in to give extra security. A brass rod going through the chain drum also protrudes through into the drive drum for a short distance top keep things in alignment. A brass ring is also soldered to the brass rod to keep chain drum in firm position, the drive drum is also recessed for this ring enabling magnets to close up to metal ring. The servo is used to disengage the magnet allowing the anchor to free fall in lower position servo neutral position brings magnet back to chain drum holding anchor taut then when the servo is push forward it only slides on linkage and the motor turns to raise the anchor. The motor is a small geared motor of about 100 rpm and has a esc fitted for better control when inching home the anchor. Both magnet and servo I operate from tx stick. Care has to be taken to get the adjustment on the linkage correct and the chain drum must spin very freely. I also had to change the servo to a 3kg servo to beat the magnet pull and fit ball joints on linkage for better adjustment. My anchor was 4grams and that seemed the lightest the drum would move freely with. However the motor can lift 40 grams as that what I tested the lift at. Also did 100 non stop free fall drops and lifts to check reliability and everything was firm after my test.

As I wanted to install lights in foremast and had trouble trying to drill the centre of the doweling in one piece. I decided to try a hollow section mast. This is in five sections with 4mm thin brass tubing a firm push fit. The length of these sections was determined by where the mast rings are positioned. Which enabled the joints to be hidden.The mast rings are glued only on the top side of the ring and a strengthener fitted below the deck to hold the mast in position. Lights are fitted and wired through the sections one wire used for ovolt of mast lights and one wire used for ovolt of deck lights. Wiring has two plugs at end for connecting to main cabling under the deck. The mast is then assembled and when installed all the rigging at the various rings will hold the mast firmly in position. This style of fitting means the mast can always be removed for lamp replacement if required. Although I made the mast on my printer it could always be done this way using short pieces of doweling which are easier to drill though the centre.