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    HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    15 Posts Β· 11 Followers Β· 72 Photos Β· 106 Likes
    Began 5 years ago by
    Lieutenant Commander
    United Kingdom
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    Latest Post 4 years ago by
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    πŸ“ HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 28 Views · 4 Likes · 5 Comments
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    Having already started the build, Martin555 suggested I do a build log. Never done one before so here goes.
    First impressions of the kit - very comprehensive and parts of good quality, as I would expect from the manufacturers, Jotika.
    However, I soon found that quite a few parts had been numbered incorrectly, so be careful!
    Two versions can be built, civilian and Royal Navy. Being a keen military modeller, there was no contest.
    My first decision was the power plant. Steam far too expensive and complicated, so I decided on electric.
    Recommended were 900 brushless motors which are very big lumps. Consultation with Jotika resulted in 540 2.5:1 geared motors which had the added advantage of lower shafts, making it easier to connect the prop shafts, which are parallel to the hull.
    60mm 4 bladed props completed the drive train, which as you will see later from the sea trials proved very effective.

    πŸ’¬ Re: HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 27 Views · 3 Likes
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    Thanks for that. No problems with the build as far as it goes in the blog (so far so good!), but watch this space!⚑
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Rookysailor ( Commodore)
    ✧ 27 Views · 3 Likes
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    I believe what most of us on this site would like to see is plenty of pictures of your build,πŸ‘ we like to see how you address problems! if any occur, (hopin not🀞) As Doug, Martin and Michael said, plenty of details if possible.


    Peter (Rooky)
    πŸ’¬ Re: HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    5 years ago by πŸ‡©πŸ‡ͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 27 Views · 3 Likes
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    Not forgetting the details of the detailing πŸ˜‰
    😎
    πŸ’¬ Re: HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 27 Views · 3 Likes
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    That looks an interesting model, only one comment on doing a build log -plenty of detail, then even more detail, followed by some detail,
    best of luck with the build I look forward to following
    Michael 😊
    πŸ’¬ Re: HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 25 Views · 1 Like
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    Hi Cormorant,
    A good start to your build log.
    Thank you for mentioning about the numbering issues
    it seems a common thing with kits these days.
    That takes us back to the usual question "quality control"?

    Martin555.
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    πŸ“ The Start
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 30 Views · 6 Likes · 4 Comments
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    (Apologies for the lack of detailed photos at this stage.)

    A 44 page instruction manual, three full sized scale drawings and a double sided A4 sheet of photographs should give me enough guidance.
    Construction starts with making the stand. However, I was soon to find that 8.5mm ply, although fine for displaying the boat without ballast, is useless when the model is in sea going trim. A stand from 20mm softwood solved the problem.
    The next job was to remove excess (approx 10mm) grp from the top of the hull down to a marked line, which gives the correct bulwark height. I found it advantageous to highlight the line with masking tape. My trusty Dremel took off most of the excess followed by careful sanding with a block.
    The kit does not come with motors or props (due to the steam or electric option), but it does come with prop shafts. The centre of the holes are marked on the hull and as with all holes drilled in grp, I started off with a small drill and enlarged the hole with a round file to prevent the gel coat cracking.
    Lining up and positioning the prop shafts parallel to the hull is simplified with the A frames. I then 'tacked' the shafts into the hull with superglue, which allowed any final tweaking, before securing them with Isopon P40 (this is the one with short strands of fibre and seems to give a stronger fixing than the smooth P38).
    Drilling and fitting the rudder is straightforward. Two rudders are supplied, an exact scale one with skeg and pintles and a more robust one, which is recommended for "frequent radio control use". I fitted the second one.
    So far so good!

    πŸ’¬ Re: The Start
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 27 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hi Peter
    I only used the P40 for holding the prop tubes in the hull, as I was informed that the glass strands in it would give a more secure fix. No sanding required and I don't think the texture would lend itself to that.
    I still use the P38 for filling.
    Steve
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    πŸ’¬ Re: The Start
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 26 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi Martin
    There is a notch at bottom of the A frame which is glued into a slot between the keel and the rudder skeg. (Magnified in the picture)
    The top of the A frame is glued directly onto the hull and further supported with the rectangular collar. (Red circled in the picture).
    The A frames are not load bearing as the prop tubes are firmly secured in the hull with Isopon.
    I used epoxy resin to attached the A frames, as recommended in the instructions.
    Hope this helps.
    Steve
    πŸ’¬ Re: The Start
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Rookysailor ( Commodore)
    ✧ 25 Views · 1 Like
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    Never used the Isopon P40, what's it sand like Cormorant, compared to the P38 which I normally use.
    btw, looking good😬

    Cheers, Peter (Rooky)
    πŸ’¬ Re: The Start
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 25 Views · 1 Like
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    Hi Cormorant,

    That is good that you were supplied with the two types of rudder.

    What glue did you use to attach the white metal "A frames" to the GRP hull, and did you use a securing pin through the hull and "A frame".

    Martin555.
    πŸ“ Bulkheads and motor fit.
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 28 Views · 4 Likes · 3 Comments
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    And it was all going so well! If all else fails, read the instructions and look carefully at the drawings.
    Having removed deck camber beams, mid deck bulkheads and longitudinal stringers from the CNC sheets, I glued the assembly together and taped it to a flat surface to dry, as per the instructions. However, as you can see from the two magnified sections in picture 1, the deck camber beams and stringers are not flush. I only became aware of this after glueing the assembly into the hull and trying to dry fit the aft deck.
    Once again, the trusty Dremel with cutting disc attached came into its own and I managed to rectify the problem - not without difficulty.
    Before glueing the bulkhead assembly into place I fitted the motors. As I have already mentioned, with the propshafts parallel to the hull, there is very little clearance for the motors. However, with the offset shafts on the 2.5:1 540 geared motors, this was not a problem.
    I used vac formed plastic 'cradle' motor mounts and standard universal couplings.
    I am now a great believer in using proprietary silicone sealant to fix the motors onto the mounts. This not only cushions vibration but allows tweaking of the final line up, which I do by eye. Before the sealant sets, I run the motors and further tweak to get as little vibration as possible. See pic 4.
    With motors in place it was time to fix the bulkhead assembly into the hull. Instructions suggest using slow cure epoxy, but I used Gorilla glue, which does the job just as well, without the trouble of mixing. Included in the bulkhead assembly is the servo tray for the rudder and with that connected and the power plant -two 12v 7ah lead acid batteries - in place, sea trials were fast approaching.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Bulkheads and motor fit.
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 25 Views · 1 Like
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    Hi Martin
    I am an Apple user and I open photos with an inbuilt bit of software called Preview. The magnifier is one of the included editing tools. I only discovered it the other day!
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Bulkheads and motor fit.
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 25 Views · 1 Like
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    "And it was all going so well! If all else fails, read the instructions and look carefully at the drawings."
    I think this is a man thing according to my wife, this sometimes happens when I've assembled IKEA furniture.
    PS also interested in Magnifier
    πŸ’¬ Re: Bulkheads and motor fit.
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 25 Views · 1 Like
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    HI Cormorant,
    I know this is nothing to do with your build but how did you do the highlighting with a magnifier on your photos ?
    πŸ“ Fitting sub decks and Sea Trials
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 30 Views · 6 Likes · 5 Comments
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    The fore sub-deck is glued onto the bulkhead assembly, prior to fixing it into the hull. This is a straightforward operation, but some sanding of the sub deck is needed, particularly around the bow. With short strips of square balsa glued onto the hull sides between the deck beams, to support the edges of the foredeck, the whole unit was again dry fitted.
    Happy with the dry fit and armed with various clamps and clothes pegs, I glued the assembly into place. (Once again, apologies for the lack of photos as I did this before deciding on doing the blog).
    Before fitting the aft sub-deck, I cut out an opening to get to the tiller if necessary. The opening will be disguised later in the build.

    Sea Trials.
    I decided on lead acid batteries, as the weight would go a long way towards ballasting - she sits very low in the water. Jotika advised 60mm 4 bladed props, which were duly fitted.
    As I have already said, I use a Taranis radio and this has the advantage of being able to set up a differential drive between the motors and rudder in the transmitter. As you can see on the video, she turns in her own length.
    You will also see from the video the 'deck cargo', or cardboard box full of the white metal fittings. This gave me a better idea of how much more ballast I would require for the finished model.
    I did have a scary moment when the 'deck cargo' shifted and she took on an alarming list to port! I thought I would be a contender for the 'Titanic Award', presented annually by our club for the best sinking. However, with nerves of steel, I navigated her safely back to the slipway.
    I was most pleased with the way she handled and moved through the water. The motors and props supply more than enough power and she will require very little more ballasting.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Fitting sub decks and Sea Trials
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 27 Views · 3 Likes
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    The problem is, once I start a build I get obsessed and spend much too much time in the workshop (according to my wife!).
    The build and the blog have now 'caught up', so there will be more photos.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fitting sub decks and Sea Trials
    5 years ago by πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ figtree7nts ( Admiral)
    ✧ 26 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi Steve,

    Your doing a great job on your Resolve!πŸ‘

    Cheers, Ed
    πŸ’¬ Re: Fitting sub decks and Sea Trials
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Rookysailor ( Commodore)
    ✧ 26 Views · 2 Likes
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    Your certainly a quick builder cormorant, but it looks stable on the water, and that's all that matters at this
    moment of the build, keep up the excellent work.πŸ‘

    Cheers, Peter
    πŸ’¬ Re: Fitting sub decks and Sea Trials
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 26 Views · 2 Likes
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    Im amaised at sea trials so soon during the build, I am 14 monthes into my build and its a million miles from sea trials !
    πŸ’¬ Re: Fitting sub decks and Sea Trials
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 26 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi Cormorant,
    You are a brave man doing some sea trials before basin trials.LOL!
    Looks good on the water.
    keep the log coming you are doing a great job.

    Martin555.
    πŸ“ Forecastle Bulwarks and Hull Fittings
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 33 Views · 8 Likes · 6 Comments
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    Now for the good bits! This is part of a build which I really enjoy, when the boat starts to take shape. With 750 white metal parts there should be plenty of detail.
    With the main sub decks in place, I fitted the bulkhead facias, together with the extended bulkhead. The parts are pre cut to take the white metal portholes and watertight doors, which I glued in with superglue. The holes needed enlarging to allow the portholes to fit correctly. (Irritating).
    Using the screen printed sub foredeck overlay as a guide, I drew around the curve to give the position of the breakwater. The breakwater is made of ply and to achieve the curve, I soaked it in water for 10 minutes which made it supple enough to follow the line I had drawn. To get a quick and secure fix I used superglue.
    Cutting the gaps in the forecastle bulkhead down to deck level was straightforward, but if you use a dremel cutting disc, don't get over enthusiastic and cut into things you shouldn't!
    The last bit of this section is fitting the portholes, ash shute doors, hawse lips and and mooring port lips. All these are white metal and the hole centres are marked on the hull. Having used a small drill to start the holes off, I enlarge them with a reamer to prevent the gel coat cracking.
    The portholes on the hull have rigoles (eyebrows) and when I have fitted these in the past, I have always got some of them on the scunt (aka crooked). Having taken great care to get the first one correctly orientated, I drew a line through the rest of the holes, which helped aligning the remainder.
    I found that the hole centre for the hawse lip was close to the waterline and to maintain the correct distance I had to enlarge the hole upwards (if that makes sense).
    The fitting of the mooring port lips was straightforward and for extra detail they are both inside and outside.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Forecastle Bulwarks and Hull Fittings
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Rookysailor ( Commodore)
    ✧ 24 Views · 0 Likes
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    Thanks for the info Steve. I know what you mean about Ron Dean, have got a USS KIDD that I bought from a good friend, upon building it, I noticed a starboard propeller grill missing, I asked Ron who was going to the show at Blackpool, to bring one, when I asked him, he said he had forgotten and to give him a call, but now will have to pay postage, what a Plonker!

    Cheers, Peter
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Forecastle Bulwarks and Hull Fittings
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 26 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi Peter. If I remember correctly, Ron Dean didn't supply enough, or enough brass railing, so I had to ring up for some more (before the days of the internet!).
    That was 30 or so years ago, just after he had started, but I don't think he has got much better. I steer clear of him now.
    You might have a look here

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-White-ABS-Plastic-Rod-Round-Solid-Bar-DIY-Model-Ma
    πŸ’¬ Re: Forecastle Bulwarks and Hull Fittings
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Rookysailor ( Commodore)
    ✧ 26 Views · 2 Likes
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    Many thanks Cormorant for that tip, will use the idea on my next ship HMS Kelly.
    btw, no such luck on this Deans boat, no extra sprue...☹️

    Cheers, Peter
    πŸ’¬ Re: Forecastle Bulwarks and Hull Fittings
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 27 Views · 3 Likes
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    The rigoles came as complete portholes in the white metal fittings.
    However, many years ago I built one of Deans Marine kits, HMS Verulam, a 1/96 scale destroyer. Included in the kit were lengths of thin plastic sprue with the instruction to wind the sprue tightly around a pencil. Remove the resulting 'sprue coil' from the pencil and cut it lengthways with a small pair of scissors.
    The semi circular pieces created by the cutting made quite acceptable rigoles.
    Steve
    πŸ’¬ Re: Forecastle Bulwarks and Hull Fittings
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Rookysailor ( Commodore)
    ✧ 26 Views · 2 Likes
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    Nice bit of detail work Cormorant and good close up photographyπŸ‘, With what do you make your rigoles with? have used solder before now, but yours looks very good😊

    Cheers, Peter
    πŸ’¬ Re: Forecastle Bulwarks and Hull Fittings
    5 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 25 Views · 1 Like
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    Nice progress Cormorant,
    I agree with you, when you start with some of the detail work that is when you seem to gain more enthusiasm for the project.
    keep it up.

    Martin555.
    πŸ“ Anchor Windlass
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 110 Views · 10 Likes · 1 Comment
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    With the hull fitted out I decided that a few coats of paint was in order.
    For some reason the plan recommends (Humbrol) colour 127, which is 'US' ghost grey. I refuse to use an American colour on a Royal Navy boat, so I have chosen RN Admiralty medium grey 507B, by Lifecolor.
    I have used Lifecolor in the past and find it gives an excellent finish with no brush marks. Below the waterline, the good old favourite Halfords red primer in the 'shake and rattle' tin. I plan to mark the waterline with a boot stripe so "you can't see the join".
    Having promised to be able to control the anchors I thought I had better investigate the practicalities before going any further with the build.
    Why not spend half an hour or so making the anchor windlass as a start? I found this to be a model in itself, which took a couple of days! Very satisfying though.
    First, read the instructions. Then assemble the 35 or so parts on the bench, then read the instructions again.
    The white metal fittings took some fettling, as usual, but the mouldings were much better than most I have come across. (Jotika tell me that they are tooling up to 3D print the fittings in the future.)
    The written instructions missed a few part numbers, but this was compensated for with a full page exploded plan view and a full page drawing of the completed item.
    I found it better to dry fit as much as possible to ensure all the bits lined up and the cogs meshed. Once happy, I used superglue.
    The pictures show the windlass in the raw, but I'm sure it will look much better with a careful paint job.
    When I said "read the instructions again", this was in hindsight, as I am sure you rivet counters will spot my mistake in the completed build. However, if, like me you use the two foot rule, my error in construction should go unnoticed.🀞

    πŸ’¬ Re: Anchor Windlass
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 101 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi Cormorant,
    That looks quite a complicated winch.
    You only looked at the instructions again just to see were the swear words had to be inserted LOL!!

    Martin555.
    πŸ“ Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 107 Views · 7 Likes · 9 Comments
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    Having suddenly remembered that my wife is dragging me off for two weeks in Mauritius next Tuesday, I thought I had better update things.
    Construction of the windlass was very satisfying so I thought I would jump the gun (sorry!) and build the 12 pounder.
    Another annoying incorrect part number for the gun platform (399 read 361), but the remainder of the mini build went OK. The suggested use of scrap 0.8mm ply as a spacer ensured parallel planking on the gun deck platform and again, the white metal parts required very little fettling.
    Instructions say to fix the stanchions in place, then thread the 0.2mm railing wire. I think it would be easier to thread the wire onto the stanchions and then glue them into place. I also found that the vague instruction to leave a gap in the railings on the 'left rear side' for the ladder, required fine tuning to avoid the bottom of the ladder coming up against a cowl vent. Shouldn't have jumped the gun!
    Next job was to glue the ply capping rails around the top of the hull. I used superglue which gave a quick fix, together with the usual stuck fingers. However, once sanded and painted the end result was very pleasing.
    Supplied are sheets of 'screen printed' deck overlays, which are detailed with planking etc. Instructions say that these decks can be lightly stained, which I initially decided to do. Not a good move! Even a light staining masks a lot of detail. Luckily, I only messed up the foredeck, so a trip to Jotika for a replacement. A chat with John (Jotika) resulted in leaving the decks unstained, which will later be clear lacquered. It seems that the decks were originally screen printed giving much 'heavier' detail which would take a stain. However, the current decks are laser etched so the planking isn't as heavily defined. (More about that later).
    Ok, I have been ordered to start packing my case, so more in a few weeks.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Rookysailor ( Commodore)
    ✧ 101 Views · 1 Like
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    Like the idea of using the rails Doug, as supply for the bow and masts lightsπŸ‘


    Cheers, Pete
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    4 years ago by πŸ‡©πŸ‡ͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 102 Views · 2 Likes
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    Yep that makes sense Steve, but I still wouldn't do it that way with that wire!
    It'll most likely kink while you're trying to fix the stanchions and the remainder are flopping about the shop!☹️
    Had similar experience using tinned copper wire on my 1/72nd scale H class destroyer😭 Eventually I sequentially fixed and pushed/pulled the wire through stanchion by stanchion rather than waiting until they were all fixed.
    Periodically I had to stretch the wire between two pairs of pliers to de-kink it, which was a pain in the nether-lands!πŸ€”
    Took a while on a 1.35 metre deck πŸ€” But I cheated by making the main deck in two sections; midships so I could service batteries, distribution board, ESC, smoker and stern section to get access to motors, rudder and auxiliary sound and switching modules. B and X gun platforms were a bit tricky too!
    Apart from 'kinky' railing - so far so good SteveπŸ‘
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    PS and BTW, having gone to all that trouble threading metres of wire round the railings - I used them as the + and - supply rails for bow and mast lights! πŸ˜‰ 3V 'rice grain' bulbs in those days. Will be replaced with LEDs during current refit.
    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Rookysailor ( Commodore)
    ✧ 102 Views · 2 Likes
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    It's much easier to thread the stanchions after they have been fixed Steve, if you use brass wire, or as Doug suggested, piano wire, I am sure you will not have any problems threading through the fixed stanchions.😐


    Cheers, Pete
    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 102 Views · 2 Likes
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    Thanks Peter and Doug.
    I did mention that the instructions said to thread the wire through the stanchions when they had been fixed in place. This required pushing the wire as well as pulling, and it got more difficult the more stanchions that were 'wired', causing the kinks.
    My suggestion that the stanchions were 'wired' before fixing in place was in hindsight. I may well remove them and start again.
    Hope this makes sense.
    Steve
    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 101 Views · 1 Like
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    Thanks Martin. The manufacturer, Jotika, is just up the road and I visit quite often for bits and pieces. I have already mentioned the part numbering issues and he, John, has asked for a list when I have worked may way through, to rectify the problem.
    Steve
    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    4 years ago by πŸ‡­πŸ‡Ί MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
    ✧ 101 Views · 2 Likes
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    Very nice build. The windlass looks superb.😊
    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    4 years ago by πŸ‡©πŸ‡ͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 101 Views · 2 Likes
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    "the top rail on the stanchions looks a little bent" πŸ€”
    I agree Peter πŸ‘
    Looks like rather soft wire!
    I would also have been very tempted to replace it with brass or spring steel (piano wire) so that it holds its shape in the curves.
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Rookysailor ( Commodore)
    ✧ 102 Views · 3 Likes
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    Very crisp detail photo's, but it shows a bit of rush building Cormorant, the top rail on the stanchions looks a little bent, same thing with my Sir Kay, so replaced the kit rail with 0.03 brass wire, and no kinks!😐

    Cheers, Peter
    btw Enjoy your holiday and don't forget the rock!😁
    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 101 Views · 2 Likes
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    She is coming together nicely.
    Seeing the winch and gun assemblies now it really looks the part.
    Excellent work.

    It would be interesting when you have finished what the response would be if you notified the kit manufacturer of the numbering issues.!

    I think the two weeks in Mauritius is just what the Doctor ordered.
    I wish you and your wife a really fantastic time.

    Martin555.
    πŸ“ Mauritius, Anchor Winch and Fiddly Bits
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 107 Views · 6 Likes · 2 Comments
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    If you would like to go to a lovely island with lovely people and lovely weather, then, despite the 12 hour flight, Mauritius is the place! The view from our hotel room should give you some idea.
    Back to business. Having further investigated a working anchor winch, I pushed the boat out and spent Β£60 on a Krick kit. It comes as a flat pack, is easy to assemble and as you can see, it works!(see YouTube link). However, whilst I can successfully raise the anchors when the winch is in situ below decks, I have yet to overcome the friction to 'drop anchor'. This is work in progress, but I have every confidence. Can someone please remind me to do this Before I glue the foredeck in position next time?
    I love the fine detail in the kit (including the scale lumps of coal) and I am currently in the process of making bottlescrews. The before and after pictures show the scale and what's involved and I have 24 to make. I found that a magnifier viewer is a great help.
    As you can see, the foredeck is taking shape and I am now satisfied with the rail around the 12pdr. However, the instructions are still frustrating, with the 'bulwark stay bases' not being numbered, but identified in the parts list as 'stanchions' and numbered 255.
    I have also learnt another nautical name, 'chain sheaves', an integral part of the steering gear. Having identified the component parts from the pack number, they were easy to assemble, though part number 113, which turned out to be a cowl vent base, was thrown in to the list to further confuse and frustrate.
    Having said all that, that parts and fittings are of good quality and I am looking forward to making more progress (wife permitting!)

    πŸ’¬ Re: Mauritius, Anchor Winch and Fiddly Bits
    4 years ago by πŸ‡­πŸ‡Ί MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
    ✧ 101 Views · 1 Like
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    Looking really good. The anchor mechanism really does look realistic.πŸ˜€
    πŸ’¬ Re: Mauritius, Anchor Winch and Fiddly Bits
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 101 Views · 1 Like
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    Nice work.
    Doing the small detail work is when the fun really starts!
    You are doing a great job.

    Martin555.
    πŸ“ Wheelhouse, Engine Room and more detail.
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 108 Views · 7 Likes · 2 Comments
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    I have decided not to fit the working anchor winch. Having been unable to resolve the 'friction' problem, I suddenly realised that as the hawse hole is so close to the waterline, I would lose the effect in any case. Ah, hindsight!
    However, construction progresses with the engine room, steering room and towing gear. Once again, I love the attention to detail, as you can see from the stern steam winch, and engine room telegraph and muzzle loaders on the centre deck.
    The inside of the wheelhouse, which will only be visible if the flying bridge is removable, is also full of detail. (Yes, I know the binnacle needs tidying up and Kelvin's Balls need painting in the appropriate colours).
    The flying bridge is still under construction, but the lack of a diagram has made the fitting of the cladding difficult, with trialling which bit goes where and which edges to glue to which ends. According to the instructions, the cladding is on a 'screen printed' sheet, which is no longer screen printed but laser etched, I am told by Jotika.
    It is also very frustrating when the paper plan, giving part numbers, bears no resemblance to the layout of the sheet itself. (Another item to add to my 'snagging' list for Jotika). Much sanding and filling needs to take place, before the item is worthy of a photograph. I have found that you need to read the instructions three or four times and still be prepared to make mistakes!
    However, I am still excited with the build and I am looking forward to more progress now that my Christmas ban of entering the boat shed has been lifted!

    πŸ’¬ Re: Wheelhouse, Engine Room and more detail.
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ marky ( Commodore)
    ✧ 102 Views · 2 Likes
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    Sorry I missed this earlier,Great looking model and superb craftsmanship.
    Cheers Marky
    πŸ’¬ Re: Wheelhouse, Engine Room and more detail.
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 101 Views · 1 Like
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    Very nice indeed,
    She is coming along in leaps and bounds.
    Excellent workmanship.
    Keep up the good work.

    Martin555.
    πŸ“ Starting to look the Part
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 111 Views · 10 Likes · 6 Comments
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    Many more (mostly) happy hours in the boat shed and the build still goes well, but with plenty more to do.
    I have almost finished the flying bridge, which previously gave much trouble with the cladding. However, with most of the fittings, including racks of belaying pins and other detail, it looks ok, though I'm still picking the superglue from my fingers.
    I loved building and fitting out the workbench on the after deck, which contains a vice and a number of spanners.
    The large cowl vents are made up of white metal and dowel. Frustratingly, the dowel needed much fettling to fit the white metal base and cowl. I completed the task satisfactorily, but it took a long time.
    I have made a start on the foremast, as you can see, the basis of which is dowel and plastic (referred to as alloy in the plans)tube. However, another frustration was that however much fettling I did I was unable to fit the dowel into the tube.
    A visit to Jotika found that the dowel was 0.5mm oversize. John replaced it without problem, but I was a somewhat disappointed that I had to make the trip.
    It seems that the main jobs remaining are the foremast to complete, the aft mast to construct and the funnels to build, fit and rig.
    Ps. The figure you can see is one of the 3D printed ones, but only partly painted - more detail to follow.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Starting to look the Part
    4 years ago by πŸ‡³πŸ‡Ώ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 102 Views · 2 Likes
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    Looking very nice Steve, you're doing a great job of what looks like a very comprehensive kit. It's going to look terrific on the water. Looking forward to the eventual video.
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Starting to look the Part
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ cormorant ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 105 Views · 4 Likes
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    Thanks Pete. Despite the frustrations, it really is a most satisfying build. Yes, the kit is expensive, but it is very comprehensive and if you have any problems with duff parts etc., Jotika are only too pleased to help.
    I have found this video very helpful
    πŸ’¬ Re: Starting to look the Part
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 101 Views · 1 Like
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    Fantastic workmanship,
    A really nice model indeed.
    Well done.

    Martin555.
    πŸ’¬ Re: Starting to look the Part
    4 years ago by πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ figtree7nts ( Admiral)
    ✧ 102 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi Steve,

    Outstanding workmanship!

    Cheers, Ed
    πŸ’¬ Re: Starting to look the Part
    4 years ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Rookysailor ( Commodore)
    ✧ 102 Views · 2 Likes
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    Looking really good now, love all the little scale bits,
    makes it come to life, seriously thinking of buying one now.πŸ‘


    Cheers, Pete
    πŸ’¬ Re: Starting to look the Part
    4 years ago by πŸ‡­πŸ‡Ί MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
    ✧ 102 Views · 2 Likes
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    Very impressive.πŸ‘
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