I used stainless threaded rod to hold the keel on..the rod was superglued deep into the wooden keel and then passed up through drillings in the hull with nuts inside pulled up tight.
S/S rod can be bought from yacht chandlers.

Best Regards
Frank

Thanks Frank for your comments and your experience on restoring an old planked hull.

Your thoughts on keel modifications follow what I was thinking of doing with the removable torpedo attached to the timber keel with a couple of hex headed screws, I was thinking of making this of brass rod if I can find any at the right price.

I am still planking, have done port side and part way through starboard side but it is a long job when trying to re use all the old parts. I will do a blog soon in main section on progress.

Dear Nasraf

I assume what you have is a static model. The idea of fibreglassing the inside is excellent. I restored a 1952 planked pond yacht and used tissue on the inside, it makes the boat watertight and holds the hull together under the strains of sailing. I suspect you may have to rethink the keel shape as well as fitting lead ballast to get it to sail well. There are some models that fit a removable fin keel with a lead 'torpedo' so you retain its appearance for display.

Good luck with it Frank

Glad to hear you have commenced work on the restoration.
If you weigh the wood you can work out if it will float by calculating the weight of the volume of water displaced.
Detail is something I seem to take ages to complete. Looks like I will be still finishing next year!

Thanks very much Dave for your response and suggestion for a name. I rather like the suggestion of a bit of nasraf but have no need yet to make a decision as it may not even get finished.

I have now taken off the port side planking, this was not too difficult as it appears that it was assembled using small amounts of Impact adhesive, and liberally coated with, I think plaster of paris. Once the planks are removed I have found that if Immersed in water for a few minutes the softened white stuff can be scraped off and when dry cleaned up with glass paper.

I have now started to replank with a water proof wood adhesive but I can see it will be a long job.

I intend to complete the planking and then reinforce on the inside with glass fibre. Once this is done the structure should be quite sound and then I will cut away as much of the inside structure as is sensible and practical. I could not face the idea of remaking all the frames and starting again. it is large enough to displace a lot of water, so I hope that it can stand the weight of the hull. 💭


Glad to you are still at it with the Titanic/Olympic, trouble is with the detail it takes a long time and it is not easy to see a lot for your work. 😊

HI Nasraf
Well you've certainly found yourself an interesting project 😀
Should make into a nice schooner pond type yacht. if you wish to keep the wood effect on the outside your choices are limited. My initial thought was to advise covering with glass cloth and epoxy resin but the small gaps you describe will probably show. 😰
Possibly your biggest problem is the internal construction. its basically a big plank down the centre with solid frames. For a sailing model you really need space inside for all the gear.
I agree that removing all the planking is possibly the best option. 👍 You can then decide what to do with the frames. With all that wood the model may be very heavy and you will need to cut out large sections for RC gear. You may wish to consider making new frames and keel from some nice ply using the originals as templates. You can the easily cut out the centre of each frame to give you plenty of access. You can then reapply the nice clean planks you rescued. 😀
Lots of work but I know you like a challenge and its well within your capability 😀
As for a name how about "Nasreen"

Good to see you have started.The fibre glass will sort out any leakages. I will be interested to see how you install the winches etc 😀

You can use a bit of extruded aluminium channel to provide a variable mast position on the deck. Can be done as I have seen it on a one metre yacht. You will need to get some stays and adjustment turnbuckles to hold the mast vertical. I've used the Robbe fittings and they work well. I use shark fishing trace for the stays, nylon covered stainless steel, much cheaper than buying model yacht stays. Your local fishing shop should have some, they come with their own bits of tube to crimp the ends. Get some stainless wire and make your own connectors, again much cheaper than buying model yacht fixings.
Good luck 😀

Thanks Dave for comments and agree with you on the circular saw, I do not recommend it for any others.

Also agree on your comments on sails so I think now I had better spend a bit of time with the drawing board before I stick the deck on.

As I like a bit of experimentation I intend to make the mast position variable so that I can learn a bit as I go along. As I do not belong to a club I only have occasional contact with other modellers, perhaps it is time that I joined the club at Yate I have been thinking of it for some time.

I see some Australin billonaire is following your example and building another Titanic, although his is full size, it will be interesting to see if it happens.

Well you certainly have started. You are a brave man to have used a circular saw for such a purpose.

Unless you intend to have all your rigging above deck you may need to remove some more formers. I suggest a pin saw as this will be much safer and the blade can be turned thro' 90 degress to cut across the bottoms.

You really now need to have a sail plan of some sort as the final handling of the yacht is very dependant on you mast position.

It may be helpful to enlist the help of a local fellow club member who sails yachts to advise the best rig.

Hull finish looks good, Should be nice and watertight. 😀

hI nasraf

by the looks of the boat it looks a lot like the old J Class yachts. do some research to see any familarity. Just search for "j class yachts" on the net. otherwise u are doing a great job.

Seems OK on basis of 1L = 1Kg. I am assuming this is the bare hull weight and ballast will be extra? 😀

HI Dave

As I have done away with my bath and only have shower now, flotation tests are more of a problem and my paddling pool is not deep enough for the yacht, and too much hard work to blow up..

I am not sure that I want to put it in the water before the outside is sealed.

Therefore have done a rough calculation that indicates a displacement of about 20 litres, as it at present weighs 3.5 Kg there should not be a problem.

Coming on apace. Have you tried it in water yet to see how it floats? 😀

Thanks hawkgripen for your various comments and advice, I have been a bit busy recently on various things, but on Valsheda making various deck structures.

I do not think I will re build in fibre glass as I have spent too much time on restoring the timber structure, I am not much worried how well it goes, as I think I like building the models rather than sailing them.

I have reverted to the original scheme of using a detachable ballast on the keel, I have now drilled the holes to fit threaded inserts for attachment.

The ballast will be a copper tube filled with lead with turned streamlined ends, this will be a little way off yet as I still have a lot of detail to do. The next two major tasks are mast and rigging and sail control system, then the sails and then the ballast.

When I have finished the structures on the deck I will update the blog, but it is getting a bit cold in the garage so it is not as inviting as the settee and TV.

HI again Nasrat. Been thinking since last comment. Seeing that you have internal issues on the boat why dont you finish off the outisde and make a mould from it. Finish it off externally and keep as original as received as a static. Fibre glass a new one and you have all the space required to do the internals. Have also read somewhere that the RC J builders == build out, extend the keel profile to lower the c of g and to get weight as low as possible. This results in a bigger rudder but remember you have a big yacht.
Still thinking.
hawkgripen

h
HI there, I'm a bit slow on net and would like to know if you have cast the ballast yet. Could have possible solution for you. is the "lead area" in keel of yacht hollow.

We were casting lead to make fishing weights as kids and we're still here. Don't let the health & safety boys put you off!

As with most things in life its about reducing risks and a little common sense goes a long way. Just remember you are playing with molten metal and take suitable precautions.

Hear are some suggestions based on my experience (cock ups) casting metals of various types over the years.

Most accidents are caused either during the melting, transport or pouring of the molten metal (or in the mould itself).

1. Wear stout shoes, gloves & eye protection (and a jacket & long trousers) keep exposed skin to a minimum!
2. Think what might go wrong (eg if you drop the container of molten metal). Do a dry run & clear any obstructions out of the way.
3. Don't balance your crucible (ladle/saucepan) over a flame and then be surprised when it tips over and spills lead everywhere - make sure its supported and stable.
4. Use a suitable container to hold the lead - make sure its strong enough - especially the handle attachment. A long handle is better than a short one Two handles are even better - more so as the amount (and therefore weight) of lead increases.
5. Molten metal mould water = steam = bang.
Make sure the mould is dry - Put it in the oven at 100 deg for at least an hour - if you're still not sure leave it a day & repeat! Plaster/clay/cement moulds take longer than you think to dry out so be patient as if you put them in the oven damp they will crack (or explode - this is still better than going bang when you are pouring the lead so don't skip this stage). I prefer MDF/wood moulds as they are simpler (and if you can't tell when these are wet you probably shouldn't be attempting this).
6. Make sure the mould is stable and adequately supported - (remember you are adding weight)
7. Don't stand directly over your mould when pouring and have it tilted mould slightly away from you - if the worst happens the lead will make a rapid exit. You will not have time to duck so make sure you are not going to be in its way before hand.

Lastly if something goes wrong don't be a hero. Get out of the way and let the accident happen on its own - that way you will still be around to deal with the consequences (and face the music if you are daft enough to do this in the kitchen).

If you follow these steps you will reduce the risks by 99%.

By the way if you are thinking of using sand as a mould - Bake silver sand it until its bone dry and add engine oil as a binder - won't do complex shapes and stinks of burning oil but will produce simple castings quickly.

Safe Building!

HI hawkgripen

Long time since looking at site what with Christmas, the weather and computer problems.

Thanks for suggestions and I think I will have to silicone the two cabin assemblies, as with any luck these may not need to be removed.

The main equipment will be installed in under the main hatch and I think I will seal this with a rubber gasket, the cover being held in place by magnets and steel strips, these rare earth magnets are very powerful and provide quite a high holding force.

Looks like I was "cut off" with the above message.
Regarding the housing installation I think the most Important section that must be readily available is the pit area where the electronic /electrical equipment is in . By looking at the photos I would suggest that you silicon the rudder housing down.
I dont know what the bottom of the structures look like. What I did was to glue a strips of wood on the insides of the opening, extending approx 6-10 mm above the deck, where the house must come over. if you have enough clearance on the underside of your house then it fits over the strips thereby preventing water from washing in. Give me some time , need to take a photo to show you.

Morning Nasraf. good to hear from you again.

Been waiting to see progress.

Good to see you have not abandoned us altogether.
The model is looking quite superb and I look forward to seeing how you progress. 😀