Sealed the cockpit with bits of wood and will add silicon sealant round all the joints when the glue has hardened.
Had thought about cutting the rudder post so it was below deck but decided to stick with my original fitting. I have reworked the front and rear coamings around the rudder. When dry I intend to seal with silicon sealant and will cast a silicon plug to seal the gap around the rudder post. When finished I intend to flood the deck with all hatches in place and check for any leakage. I have still to make the silicon seal.

The existing ballast consists of 5 pieces of lead and a battery placed inside the hull on the base of the hull. There is a solid keel running the length of the boat but I could not add any weight into this inside the boat. The ballast weighs 4.7kg excluding the battery and clearly would be best placed in or alongside the keel. I propose therefore to make a bolt on lead keel to fit the length of the boat. The existing ballast has 2.9kg forward of the mast and 1.6kg about midships with a small 0.2kg weight in the stern. I will need to keep the ratio the same on the false keel and there is a 1kg difference in port and starboard. By extending the keel down as against making wider I will also increase the sailing stability. On the water the boat will not look any different and the keel will be removed for transportation and when on display. Pictures of the keel and lead weights give the details. I will post more as the work progresses

The rudder is angled to align with the keel. The post rises thro the deck and has an arm attached, which the pilot used to control the rudder from the cockpit. in practice this required a push pull arrangement to transfer the servo travel to the rudder post. A brass bush fixed by grub screw carries two brass arms which connect via cable to the servo mounted below the open cockpit. I had constructed a push fit cover over the post to partly seal the hole. Clearly this is not sufficient and I will be sealing this completely, probably with a bespoke silicon casting this fits the hole and can be covered with wood to preserve the appearance.
The other problem is the open cockpit. This is a tight fit around the coamings and would have been OK except I had failed to seal the area under the seat. as a result any water in the cockpit drained into the hull - not good. I attach some pictures to give the general idea. More pics will follow as I progress.

Started over a year ago, built from the Chris Brown fibreglass hull and plan. Got sidetracked with the Olympic build but completed this year. As well as the sails there is a small electric motor to help with recovery on calm days and to avoid the occasional water plant bank!

There are two winches controlling the sails - an arm winch works the mainsail with a drum winch controlling the fore sails. I have tried to make the running and standing rigging as accurate as possible and made all the pulleys / deadeyes. The deck is planked with pine strips and mahogany veneer covers the rear cabin and cockpit. Masts are pine suitably dyed. I made the sails from the plans supplies but am not happy with the finished result and will remake in time.

I have had several sails in most conditions and the model sails but not as well as I had hoped - not down to the design - probably my poor sails.

There is 4.5Kg of lead in the hull and I remove this to assist with transport. Today was a very blustery day and I was lucky to make it back to shore as the boat was blown flat and shipped a lot of water. This entered via the rudder post and rear cockpit so a rethink is necessary.

There is a solid keel so recasting the lead so it is all outside the boat and attached to the keel should bring the CoG much lower and Improve stability.

I show the model "as is" on one of the quieter days on the lake but will show more details as I progress.