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๐ฌ Cariad Bristol Pilot Cutter
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง Dave M ( Vice Admiral)
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HI Brian
Yes sorry for the delay. Had back to back weddings one last month and another this so rather busy with other matters at present. I believe the best way would for me to start a new build blog and describe the steps I took when building my model. I can then share the experience with other members and answer any questions as we proceed. I am fully committed to other tasks today but will try and start the blog tonight. Kind regards Dave ๐ ▲
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Remove Ads ๐ฌ Cariad Bristol Pilot Cutter
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ฎ Brianww ( Recruit)
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Hello Dave,
I sent you a PM the other day, just wondering if you received it ? Kind Regards, Brian ▲
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๐ฌ Cariad Bristol Pilot Cutter
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง Dave M ( Vice Admiral)
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HI Brian
Very happy to help with your Cariad build. So as I don't spend too much time teaching you to suck eggs please will you provide a bit more info on your skilset and experience with model building in any format. I assume you also purchased the plans with the hull? Do you have any tools to start the build and an area where the build is to be undertaken? If you prefer to share this by way of a personal message that will be fine. Hear from you soon Kind regards Dave ๐ ▲
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๐ฌ Cariad Bristol Pilot Cutter
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ฎ Brianww ( Recruit)
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Greetings, I have just received the hull for Cariad from Chris Brown, and have been reading your posts about your building process. You are obviously very experienced. I have not done any model building in many years, so this will be quite a challenge, any information you would be kind enough to pass along to me would be greatly appreciated. For example: just exactly where did you
start ? Ballast ? Bulkheads ? I have a little experience with sailing yachts, having helped rebuilds on a couple, in my spare time.l Kind Regards, Brian ▲
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๐ฌ Cariad Rear Cockpit and Rudder
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง Dave M ( Vice Admiral)
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HI jon
Yes tried that but I have a servo (just visible) that I need to get at. The actual cockpit is a snug fit round the coamings and has a siicon seal. The problem was I had failed to completely seal the inside just below either side of the seat. Sorry not that clear on the photo but there is 1/8" gap either side! Water will get in the cockpit whatever I do but providing it remains there I have no problem - perhaps a self bailer or pump may be required, but if I can keep the boat more vertical this will not be too great a problem. The rudder is the main problem and I will bee making the much more watertight. The tiller arm is there for show and can't be seen moving whilst sailing so I am considering cutting the rudder post level with the arm fastening. I can then fully seal the deck opening and make a false support for the tiller arm. Thanks for the input, gutter sealant sounds a good idea round the rear covering ๐ ▲
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๐ฌ Cariad Rear Cockpit and Rudder
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง triumphjon ( Master Seaman)
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would it be possible to build a ledgefor the base of the cockpit to sit on ? a thin bead of silicon could then be used to aid sealing . Ive several sailing vessels where Ive got hatches I dont need to remove very often where Ive applied a thin bead of gutter sealant , this doesnt set so remains reusable , also means your able to remove the hatch again ! !jon
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๐ฌ Cariad Lead and Keel
10 years ago by ๐จ๐ฆ rkretchmar ( Recruit)
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Dave I got a hold of Chris, thanks Ray
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Remove Ads ๐ฌ Cariad Lead and Keel
10 years ago by ๐จ๐ฆ rkretchmar ( Recruit)
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Hello! Dave. I just got up and was thankful to get the info you sent on Cariad. it is most kind of you to contact Chris if I do not hear in the week. I really am a builder, have raced IOM's, some times in the sea, two good sailing sites, one a man made lake about 6 miles from here and a lake that the boat club used about 30 miles from here. Boat club is into tugs most of the time and no knowledge of sailing vessels. I am pushing 83 and was going to order Cariad, but heart problems put the stoppers on that. My email address is: *Removed - email addresses should be sent via private message*. Thanks again Ray
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๐ฌ Cariad Lead and Keel
10 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง Dave M ( Vice Admiral)
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HI Ray
Hull length 38" plus bow sprit 10" but this can slide onto the deck bar about 1" so 39" for transport Mast height 35" plus say 6" for the gaf topsail but Mine is rigged to allow removal in strong winds and for transport. My sailing waters were too much for the internal ballast Chris suggests and I have added a bolt on keel. Please see my other build blog at ▲
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๐ฌ Cariad Lead and Keel
10 years ago by ๐จ๐ฆ rkretchmar ( Recruit)
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Hello, I am in Canada, Vancouver is on the west coast and the Pacific, I have asked Chris for a quote on full set, no power, via email, and so I will wait a while, but if you would not mind, please measure yours for lengths and mast height. Appreciate this....Regards Ray
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๐ฌ Cariad Lead and Keel
10 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง Dave M ( Vice Admiral)
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I will measure tomorrow and post details ๐
Not sure exactly where Chris trades from, I suggest you give him a ring and ask. I have always met him at aone of the model shows he attends. ▲
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๐ฌ Cariad Lead and Keel
10 years ago by ๐จ๐ฆ rkretchmar ( Recruit)
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Just one question. is her length OA 38" including bow sprit?
is Chris Brown's Laleston place effected by flooding? ▲
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๐ฌ Motor and prop shaft
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง Dave M ( Vice Admiral)
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HI David
Sounds very similar to our lake. I can easily lower the Topsail and with the lead now amidships and sealed to the base of the hull I am confidant that I can sail safely. My bowsprit is also wedged so acts like yours. Also helps to load into car and storage. Actually need nearer 6Kg of lead in the end so my total weight is over 7Kg. Thanks for the additional feedback Dave ▲
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Remove Ads ๐ฌ Motor and prop shaft
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง Lifeboatmember ( Able Seaman)
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HI Dave
I think I did not explain very clearly about wind at our lake it comes in of the sea but the lake sits down below an embankment and on one side there are apartment blocks so the wind does swirl around to the point you can be beating in one direction when the wind will do a 180degree change in direction. if the wind is gusting about I leave the topsail off this makes it a little more stable.My bowsprite is held in position by a wooden tapered wedge so if I do run into anything the bowsprite just slides back onto the deck then all I have to do is pull the bowsprite forward and refit the wedge and away we go.Cant remember the weight of the ballast could weigh boat minus masts and rigging etc it will give us a ballpark figure when I get a chance will mail you. Good sailing David ▲
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๐ฌ Motor and prop shaft
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง Dave M ( Vice Admiral)
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HI David
Yes I had 4.7kg of lead either side of the keel and I was very lucky to make it back to shore. I have plenty of scuppers so the deck drained ok. Problem was my poor sealing at the rear. That's now sorted and I have built a lead keel extension. Tried in the test pond and appears very stable. I have covered the lead with glass cloth and fibreglass and once hardened (bit too cold at present) I will make it nice and symmetrical and smooth. I wish our lake had such nice wind. Problem is we a we surrounded by trees which cause horrible gusts and turbulence. I agree about the damage you can cause. The worst problem is getting the bowsprit entangled. What is the weight of your ballast? ๐ ▲
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๐ฌ Motor and prop shaft
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง Lifeboatmember ( Able Seaman)
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I have a pilot cutter with internal ballast a length of scaffold tube full of lead the battery for the winch and rudder control sits on top of the tube. I have sailed it in fairly strong winds without problems of stability though she will heel over so that the gunwales are in the water or even just under, our pond is on the coast of the Bristol channel so as you can Imagine the winds come straight in of the sea where the originals once sailed. The original boats were excellent sea boats they were sailed by one man and a boy once the pilot was rowed across to the waiting merchant ship.
Hope you have as great enjoyment sailing your boat as I have had with mine, one word of caution you should warn your fellow pond users not get in the way as they do not turn to quickly and if you hit another boat with the weight of the keel and the power in the sails you will inflict damage. ▲
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๐ฌ Motor and prop shaft
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง ianed57 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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Got you. I used race an old Marblehead in the early eighties and it was amazing how much just one strand of weed round the bulb would affect the sailing performance.
Ian ▲
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๐ฌ Motor and prop shaft
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง Dave M ( Vice Admiral)
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Thanks Ian. We have lots of underwater foliage in our lake and fin and bulb boats get snagged, whereas pond type keels don't. I agree this would really help the stability but the benefit is outweighed (no pun intended ๐ ) by the snagging problem.
I hope I will be as successful as you with the silicon sealant, if I work out a bailing solution I will post details ▲
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๐ฌ Motor and prop shaft
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง ianed57 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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Dave- just a thought. As you have decided to go with an external keel why not go the hole hog and fit a fin and bulb? I once saw a Pilot Cutter with this arrangement sailing at Bude in Cornwall and she went very well and, of course, the whole thing was removable for display.
I have a friend who also fitted an ex-metre class fin and bulb to a paddle steamer- there's a video of it on here- and it Improved matters no end. Sometimes needs must- but I can understand that fitting a fin to scale boat might go against the grain. I have a cutter built on a GRP hull- the old JB Mouldings Monica- and I had to seal in the cockpit with silicone as a lot of water came in. I have often wondered about self baling cockpits but never really understood the geometry! As you say, if you can seal the cockpit you could probably live with water sitting in there. Hope you can sort it out...Ian ▲
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๐ฌ Lead Keel fitting
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง DavyJones ( Recruit)
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Thanks - and so it begins......
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12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง Dave M ( Vice Admiral)
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HI Martyn
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๐ฌ Lead Keel fitting
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง DavyJones ( Recruit)
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Dave,
Where might a chap accquire a set of plans? Martyn ▲
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๐ฌ Rudder post seal
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง Dave M ( Vice Admiral)
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The hull is a nice solid casting in fibreglass. Very realistic finish and ideal for the model. The shape of the hull is very rounded and scratch building would require quite a number of frames to achieve the correct contours. However if this is your building method of choice then you will certainly enjoy the build.
Lead shot is good for ballast and the method you suggest would work. I have a good supply of lead sheet so have used this without incurring extra cost. ▲
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๐ฌ Rudder post seal
12 years ago by ๐ฌ๐ง DavyJones ( Recruit)
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Me again! I've ordered the plans from Chris and await their arrival - at the moment I'm thinking scratch build but was wondering what others thought about the merits of the fibreglass hull?
- PS re the ballast I've seen lead shot used -secured by putting it in a plastic bag adding yacht varnish mixing and then pouring into the bilges. This chap has some good ideas - ▲
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