Scroll on Man 👍
😎

I use a scroll saw to make my frames. Looking at 1/16 x1/4 basswood strips for planking.
Rick

Doug the plan was from a member of my club. My thinking is to move the steam plant from my first build.
The one I took apart to make it look better bow and stern.
Will make the call when the build progress.
Rick

Mein Gott Rick 😎
Where'd you find that jewel of a plan ?
It's from the April 1985 issue of ModellWerft (=Model Shipyard).
A mag I've subscribed to since 1986. Only moved here in Sept. '85.
Looking forward to this blog.
Are you going to build the steam plant as well?
Cheers, Doug 😎

How do you cut your frames? What about the basswood? What thickness is the basswood?

Will be using 1/4 " ply for the frames and basswood for planking the hull.
Rick

What wood do you plan to use for the frames? Looking forward to seeing the progress.

I agree with you Ron 👍
I've always had the feeling that if I notch the keel it weakens it unnecessarily 😮
But then, I laminate the keel on both sides anyway 😁
Belt and braces!
Cheers, Doug 😎

Have done both notched the frame and keel. Notched only the keel.
Rick

Better take those cardboard cutouts and put in the desired notch.

Yes, it will all workout in the end. How, do you generally do it?

The problem was I didn't think ahead for the the frames and keel notches and had taken to much from the keel side of the frame.Rather the take the frames off the building board and notching the it worked out to only notch the keel.It did work out well just a lot slower.Good thing I didn't have to pay for my time. LOL
Rick

Interesting that you do not notch the frames to fit the notch in the keel. I always notch me frames to fit over the keel. Or 50/50 notch keel and notch frame.

Thanks for the info Doug and Nerys .Will reread this post tomorrow and right down your how to .
Rick

BTW Rick,
I forgot the two metal bands holding the 3 planks (of the original) together.
I'd cut 'em from 0.5mm brass strip. Drill the rivet / bolt holes before cutting into narrow strips.
I learned that the hard way! 🤕 Rivets from brass wire?
Have fun, 🤞
Cheers Doug 😎

Ah jus knowed you'd know Nerys 👍
😎😴💤

Yes Doug, the correct terms for the rudder hanging bits are gudgeons and pintles. The gudgeon is the bit with the round hole in it (the female side) and the pintle has a rod that sticks into the gudgeon, thus allowing the rudder to swing easily.

Cheers, Nerys

Hmm! See what you mean Rick. 😮
The rudder apparently of wood and is hung on 3 pins rather than a continuous stock.
I think I would tackle it this way.
I'd make it in two halves so that I could cut slots for the pins.
Would be impossible to drill straight holes for the pins in a single piece rudder.
I'd trace the rudder form onto 1/8" wood sheet. TWICE!
Preferably not ply if you can find something else, otherwise the edge might look a bit odd.
Even balsa sheet would do, can later be hardened using EzeKote diluted with about 10 to 15% water. Then two coats of pure EzeKote (or similar😉).

When you have the two halves cut it is relatively easy to cut / mill the slots for pins.
I used a Dremel type engraving tool and a round (ball) engraving bit to cut the slots.
Make the pins from suitable brass or ally rod and glue the halves together with the pins in place. Take care cutting the slots so that they are all in a line to align with the hangers.
On the hull you will need the three 'hangers'!
(Nerys will know the correct technical name!😁)
I would make the hangers from 3mm (or whatever suits your scale) brass or ally sheet with long tails that I could epoxy into the hull. Use a suitable size rod to keep 'em in line while the epoxy hardens! Line them all up so that the rudder just drops in and turns easily.
Main thing, use the same metal for both pins and hangers, to prevent electrolytic corrosion when they get wet.
I recently used this sort of technique to make a balsa rudder with 1mm shaft for a micro Springer tug, and to make the keel with a 2mm slot cut for the prop shaft toob.
Drilling it was a no go! They don't make 2mm drill bits that long 😁
If a 1/4" rudder is too thick for scale you can always sand it down and shape it when the EzeKote has hardened, or before you apply the EzeKote, as you wish.
Then score it to simulate the three planks it seems to have been made of.
Should look nice all fettled up and varnished.

Hope this helps.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Steve Thank you for the comment.The filler looks more than it is.Will not have a second planking will fiberglass the hull and seal inside to help keep water tight.
Rick

Hi Rick
I have been so engrossed in my own travails that I have only just spotted your blog. I must admit, your planking looks far better than mine and I am surprised you needed so much filler?
Are you second planking like me or fibreglassing perhaps?
Steve

That's a good move waterproofing the internals is so important, its those areas that get covered up during the build that sometimes get forgotten and those are the bits that will come back to bite you in the future

A smaller prop would not have worked to power the boat. Have shaved down the stern and now have a working prop.Reinforcing and filling in now.
Rick

would a smaler prop be any use.😀

No one ever made anything without a mistake so sit back evaluate and think of the solution , I rather like Doug's idea of tunnel, you see a lot lifeboats with a tunnels

"Only then did I think about the propeller that's where I missed the boat LOL"
Oops! 😭
Well Rick,
How about filing / moulding a 'tunnel' in front of the prop and passing it off as 'an experimental hull'? 😉
Many great 'inventions' came about as the result of what was at first thought to be a 'cock up' 👍
Cheers, Doug 😎

Thanks JB I wish spelling were as easy as me working on my boats.
Rick

Coming along well Rick

JB

'Tell and Show' Rick 👍
😎