John I found the NMR icebreaker under icebreakers by Solo Ta

Martin 555
There one or two I haven't
Cheers

Hi Seaspray,
You probably Already have these.
If you click on the photos and zoom in for a better look.

https://www.shiphotos.com/Ship/?ID=7635

Can't find the NMR on a search but there is a few others of this class with other names Cheers for the like 👍 Like the Meteor a jungle to get pics of boat. Its the mast on the forward deck that seems to be the difference between the boats

Hi there
If you do a search of this Forum, I am sure there is a build of this particular icebreaker on here - as I seem to recall it.

Thanks Martin555 It was either the Kontio or Pierre Radisson or Norman McLeod Rogers Icebreakers to choose from to build. So I decided to build the NMR

Looks a good project.Good luck with the build.
Rick

That looks like a nice model to make.
I will be following this build log with interest.
Good luck with the build.

Martin555.

Newby7 It does take me a long time for my builds
Cheers

As Martin has said now the fun begins. Good part is being retired time is your friend you don't need to hurry any part of the build. Good luck.
Rick

Hi Seaspray.

Now the fun starts.
Good luck with the build.

Martin555.

Thats a good idea as I would be practising joining planks with some scrape obechi I have. Thinking of splitting the 3.15 mm thick planks in the band saw but those days of looking for trouble are over. Anyway its centres cut out of the frames today and mount them on the building board tomorrow.

Hi ya, just to throw the cat amongst the pigeons -😁😁 why not add extra stringers around the outside of the hull and diagonally plank it - then you can go and break real ice with it in the Scots lake. The hull will be really strong and you wont have to worry about putting joints in the planking.

John

Re building board good ideas but I am in no mansland here. The boards were in the shed over winter and there was only one dead straight. Did think of coming in from the side as I went for maximum distance for to clear the screws on the support blocks. Screw from underneath and cutting the planks at 60 degrees with backing support good ideas. Do see the joints on Exeter they'll be strong Big learning curve the now and still trying to get round this site. You mentioned Maple and I just went for obechi as I thought that was the wood to go for. (ideas please)Tom Gorman did his model with thin ply then filler as he was putting plastic plates on his model. I hope to resin and mat ( got some Deluxe Materials 34 g/m2 1.0 oz /y2 )but will not be putting plastic plates on but do have an idea to simulate them. Got a picture of Tom's model. I'll have to sleep on it regards shorter planks with joints, challenging but I do like a challenge and might be easier as first time planking.
Ta

hoo yee ya tight Scot - last time I called you by your Sunday name me post was tampered with for evidence :-) so.....if you want longer lengths of Obechi try SLEC - they are pretty good - I tend to use Cornwall Model Boats for the hard timber such as Maple and stuff -

just a thought about your building board would it not be better to have the strengthening battens glued/screwed on roughtly 1 1/2 inches inboard of the edge of the actual chipboard either side. This allows you to use little clamps to hold your support blocks in place while you screw them.

Also, if you ever build a wider hull on the building board which overlaps the edges of your building board you can screw from underneath into your support blocks - just a thought.

As far as joining short planks - when I build the Exeter - which is canny long - I had to join many planks and the way I did it; I cut the end of the planks at roughly about 60 degrees and mated the 2 end planks like that and then placed the backing plank on the inside of the join obviously glued in place - I also tend to make the joints in the middle of two frames.

Couple of pics

one of the Exeter hull (I dont know if you can make out the joints in the planking and one of the present hull which is on the board) of the support straps on the inside of the planks.

John

Hi John The keel is 89 cm long would I buy these and join them when planking. Now I know the thickness Ta

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Obechi-Strip-1.8x6x550mm-B1032.htm

We Scots are that tight we never throw anything away. Usually it goes to the charity shops or down to the market

HI RNinMunich Know what you are saying during building the Meteor and Scotia. Some of the parts were redone up to 5,6,7, times. Just a lack of experience
Cheers

Thanks RNinMunich I either ordered wrong or I was sent what was available. There seems to be only 3 importers of obeshi in this country (Scotland) Having trouble at the moment getting smaller size

Hi Newby7 I've learnt more by my mistakes than any other way.
Cheers

"I think the planks are too thick at 3.25mm "
I'm inclined to agree Seaspray 🤔
They are likely to be somewhat stubborn and unforgiving.
I would have thought, and I'm no expert planker (or Plonker for you fellow ancient UK TV addicts😠), that about 2mm thickness would be the max for easy bending and shaping.
Good luck 🤞
Cheers, Doug 😎

"I like to try and do it right or don't bother "
We all want to get it right Seaspray.
But perfectionism is the anathema of progress.
Ask me how I'm so sure 🤔
The other side of the coin-
If at first you don't succeed ... give up and go home!
Oh! 😮 I am home, so I'll give it another crack 😉
😎

That's the best form of recycling for us modellers Rick 👍👍👍
Shucks! It don't fit. Never mind it'll come in handy for ..... 😉
Never throw ANYTHING away ... that won't start to stink in a week or so 🙊
😎

I find when I build a mistake will happen.The good thing is I know it can be fixed and most times the mistake gets used in another place.
Rick

Cheers Martin The old frames will be used in time on a smaller model. I like to try and do it right or don't bother

Ta John I am dreading when the planking has to be started I think the planks are too thick at 3.25mm

looking good

It's a shame you had to redo them but i looked like you are on your way with the build now.
Keep up the good work.

Martin555.

Membership card on the way

That makes two of us then Seaspray,

Martin555.

Martin 555 Just a little thick at the age I am Ta

Hi Seaspray,
There is a Quick Site Guide that you can access by looking in the How-To section for it and if you need more help just shout.

Martin555.

Early days Martin 555 Still trying to find my way around the site.

So it is all systems go now Seaspray.

Martin555.

Time is on your side with retirement .It is surprising how fast a build does go.
Rick

Newby7 Surprised how fast it is being built but have more time now Iam retired. Can't wait till it is off the building board.

Good work onward and upward to the building.Nice looking work.
Rick

Never to old. Just a number.Carry on carrying on.Well done.
Rick

John
I'll have a good look at it tmo many thanks again

Seen (cheeks) like these on one of your builds on MBM but didn't twig Ta

No problem Doug. See G.C.H.Q is recruiting Dyslexia personal. Might try but too old at 70 odd

Heartily agree on the cheek pieces John👍
Much much easier 😀
😎

hi there

In the past the deck stringer I normally laminate is from 2 - 3 pieces. If say you are going to use a 5mm square piece of timber for your deck stringers, what I myself would do, is, substitute it with 2 pieces of timber 2.5 mm x 5 mm laminated.

As for the bend of the deck stringer at the bow and stern; I would make 2 cheek pieces of the correct shape from either the 1st and 2nd rib to the bow and the same at the stern. This eases the bend of the deck stringer.

John

Dyslexia😮
Ooops, sorry about that Seaspray😔
No offence meant! Onest injun.
A building board is a very good idea, stops things twisting / getting out of line.
Cheers, Doug 😎

AHHHH The price of being Dyslexia. Another one is the difference between Bs and Ds I've had to use two words to help suss out the difference B for baby and D for daddy On the computer is a nightmare. Do a lot of thinking out of the box to.

Thanks for the info on the stringers. I thought of building frames / keel on building board then you would have a solid hull to work with.

Easy peasy Seaspray😉
The top (deck level) stringer slot is cut so that the deck sits flat on it.
For stringers further down the frame the slots are cut tangential to the curve of the frame.
When all stringers are fitted the excess protruding wood (corners) is sanded off.
Use a sanding block (like a chunk of 2x1") long enough to always cover at least two frames.
Hope that helps.
Good luck 🤞
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS Added a couple of Angels to help you along the way 😁

A little adjustment here and there will be needed Cheers

Thanks I find it that way to cheers

A great start, this method of building and attention to alignment brings accuracy to the final structure and ease of building from this point.

Good start with the building board. Making frames square to the board will give everything the start you want. Take your time with this setup as every thing builds from here.Good luck.
Rick

John
I did as you said with the obechi on the frame and they looked good till I got 3/4 the way up and a gap started to appear. Your right it is a height problem. Ta

Getting the frames and keel in the correct position will pay dividends through out the build.
Rick

Seaspray,

According to the plan I have - the prop tubes are parallel to the keel - and not at an angle - make sure you have enough room. Also, in the past a few of Jim Pottinger plans which I have used - the frame drawings aren't 100% - so be careful. I am sure this is something to do with distortion when the original plans go to the Printers. What I have done previously is built up the edge of the frame using 1.5 mm x 5.00 mm Obechi & before I attach the strip to the edge of the frame I soak the strip in boiling water - making it easy to bend and follow the shape of the frame.

So, as long as your deck edge looks straight and right - look for the low frames which are out of line and build them up.

I have just been going through some files to see if I can find a photograph of where I needed to alter the frames - and the only one I can find at the current time is from MV Duburg which is also from James Pottinger plans. The worst frame alteration I needed to do was when I did the little tug, MSC Archer. It was a free plan that one from Model Boats - I had to do a lot of alterations to the frames. It's not an uncommon thing to have to double check and redraw some frames, especially with modern day technology - it's supposed to be much more accurate on printing but I have had a good few plans with a lot of distortion to them.

Have a look at this picture - where I am laying the batten over the frames to work out which ones are high and which ones are low - you can just see the gap on the first frame on the picture if you look closely.

Dont let it get you down either - I have spent many many a day fitting frames and lifting them off the building board - a little tweak here and a tweak there end up taking all the frames off the board - and start again. It's worth it in the end.

John

John I looked at the motor mounting position/shaft/prop when cutting the frame I think I've enough room to get the shaft thru frames see pic. Can't find any info on plan the angles the prop shafts tappers out from the hull. Did see the solid block from the hull on plan. I cut the keel with it on. Frame 6/7/8 are the decks for the workdeck its lower than the forecastle deck by 25 mm and all other deck to the rear. So it'll be a case of lowering the keel rather than raising the frames I remember you saying you were speaking to J.P. about a drawing mistake. He said on another site that he drew the plan from a small G.A. drawing on Shipping World & Shipbuilders

Martin I was on it all day yesterday and at 9p.m. just walk away from it. Start a new day tmo with a fresh look at it cheers

hi there
I think you will find it isnt frame 9 that looks too high but frame 8 that looks a little too low. The lump on the end (I am unsure if you know) is like a solid block which protrudes from the keel on the real ship to help crack the ice.

Just as a side note are you not going to put the holes in frames 2, 3 and 4 to take the prop tubes? You may find it a bit awkward once you have assembled the frames on the board and also if you have skinned the hull. A lot easier to put oversize holes in the frames to allow you a bit wiggle room for aligning the tubes up.

john

Seaspray,
Have you double checked the frame with the drawings ?
Dose the deck line look right ?
You have a pencil mark above frame 8 dose that also mean that frame 8 will have to be tweaked.
It is important to get everything right at this stage so really take your time and tweak it as much as is needed.

If you use a thin strip of wood across several frames and look at the curve it will also help to see what needs doing.

When you are happy with it don't forget to chamfer the frames before planking.

Martin555.

That's good to hear.
Glad i could help.
Keep the updates coming.

Martin555.

Hi Martin555 I did the trace and pencil No 1 on your list. worked a treat. Did find there was a difference in sizes of the photo copies I made at home compare to the printers in Ayr. I'll stick with the printer's copy from now on. Thanks again.

Cheers Martin555 I think the problem was the Pritt Stick I used to glue the whole lot of the paper frame to the wood distorted the paper. Many thanks

Hi Seaspray,

RE :- Hmmm how do you transfer the traced frame on the tracing paper to the wood.

There a several ways to do this.

1) on the side that will be put on the wood you shade the lines to be drawn with a soft pencil then place the tracing paper on the wood and then draw on your original lines.
The soft pencil shading will stick to the wood then go over them again with your pencil.

2) Place your tracing paper on the wood and prick through the lines with something sharp like a scriber.
Then remove the paper and join the dots with your pencil.

3) cut around the image on the tracing paper place it on the wood then carefully draw around it.

Martin555.