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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > MTGMB
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mdlbt.com/17219
MTGMB Print Booklet
Author: fid2b   Posts: 6   Photos: 12   Subscribers: 4   Views: 2272   Responses: 26   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

mdlbt.com/29296
Pics of running gear and skins - Posted: 22nd May 2017
Easier to form lower skins than I thought, laminating from the 32thou helped a lot.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Dave M on the 23rd May 2017
The pic posted by Inkoust says it all really.
The original Aerokits and many other models from the 1960s all had steep angled propshafts. This was necessary to allow for the large IC engines fitted.
Modern electric motors do not require the same depth inside the hull so the prop shaft can be mounted at a much lesser angle, producing a faster and more controllable model.
It would be relatively easy to alter your set-up before you add the rest of the skins. Even with a 50mm prop there is still about an inch to lose.
I appreciate this may not be your first choice but believe the end result will justify the effort
Dave
Response by canabus on the 24th May 2017
Dave M is right about lowering the prop angle and motors.
My Aerokits Sea Hornet has only 10mm clearance to the top of the prop and I cutout part of the keel to lower the motor.
I installed a 1900kv 28mm brushless motor, 30mm 1.4 pitch 2 blade brass prop with a 2650mah 3S behind the last frame with the rudder servo parallel to the transom.
Added a small bit of lead under the front passenger seat to move the CG forward.
Very quick little rocket at full throttle.
Response by canabus on the 24th May 2017
I found two pics of my Sea Hornet engine mount.
The second pic shows the cutout of the keel and the simple home made L bracket for the engine mount.
The one in the Hobbyking drive line kit I did not like, but, the engine bolting to the motor is great.
No top bearing, but, I have not had a problem with it.
Added tap silicon grease on installation.

mdlbt.com/29295
Slowly does it. - Posted: 22nd May 2017
After a long pause I am as far as propshaft, motor and rudder installation. I need a servo next but spent all my pocket money climbing a mountain in Wales this month. It was good but wet.
The motor lives on the usual alloy bracket, screwed to two wooden plinths made from strip laminated with araldite. It's all standard stuff but making it this way allowed me to shim the height correctly, the strip being about 1.5mm thick. I'll post some pics if I can work out the Google drive thing but you will also see that the lower skins are on and after the servo installation I can think about the upper hull skins and then the superstructure. All good stuff😀.
Response by RNinMunich on the 23rd May 2017
Hi,
Strictly speaking the UJ is a Cardan link! Named after Jerome Cardan (Geronimo Cardano) †1576 Italian mathematician, its inventor. 😉
Whatever!
fid - if it feels good - do it! Main thing is to enjoy what you are doing. 👍
We all just wanted to help you avoid disappointment with the performance.😭
Greetings also to Zdenek in Prague. He knows what he's doing folks!
Check out some of the magnificent ships he has built - here
http://www.inkoust.estranky.cz
👍👍👍
Cheers Doug 😎
Response by fid2b on the 23rd May 2017
That's interesting, didn't know that! Always thought it only became a cardan when a short shaft had a UJ at each end to to change the drive plane. Live and learn!😁
Response by RNinMunich on the 23rd May 2017
That's what it's apparently generally come to mean 😎
What you describe is a Cardan Shaft or double Cardan joint!

mdlbt.com/21203
I have done something, honest... - Posted: 19th Mar 2016
Ought to say the skin here is just trial fitting, not gluing on, see comments below! Couple of pictures just to prove it really does exist! I am about to start on the lower skins but here you can see the stringers and bulkheads etc. The second to last one definitely did not get drawn wrong and need a modification, oh no. It isn't on the kitchen table when my wife was at work either.
Bit concerned at the change of profile at the forward keel, not looking forward to that bit but will be able to re-profile it if need be as there is a lot of spare material there. I'm using 0.032" ply for the skins and will laminate to strengthen as required, not having done this before I am as usual guessing a bit. It seems to me easier to go with the more flexible materials rather that struggle with the thicker- how thick does the skin need to be? How does 2 plies of .032" with a layer of epoxy between them sound, I don't know, well stiff enough I would have thought on the high seas but generally abuse proof enough I am not so sure.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Dave M on the 20th Mar 2016
Your build is progressing well. You really do need to attach the formers to a solid base or you run the risk of the hull distorting as you apply the side sheets. A length of 5/8 mdf would suffice with small uprights nailed to each former.
The 1/32 wood will be fine and even stronger if you use two skins. You will really need to support the hull if you are double skinning at least until the glue has fully cured - 24hrs at least.
Looking forward to seeing how you progress
dave
Response by fid2b on the 21st Mar 2016
HI thanks for the advice, I have been keeping it clamped down during any work and I agree totally, as the skins go on the risk gets worse! My double skins are going to be one on the outside and doublers between the bulkheads on the inside so should avoid some tension issues there. I am happy to see it coming together though!

mdlbt.com/20140
Merry Christmas - Posted: 13th Dec 2015
I bet this was written off as another idea that got no further! I will pop some photos up soon but I have completed the main part of the hull minus skins, once I glue the last stringer on I will clean up what I have done and get the camera out. I have learned that bending 3/8" sq spruce around the deck profile is easier said than done and laminating in 1/8" strips is easy! I also found that warming said 1/8" sq strip is easy with a heat gun and less messy than steaming which is how I did the 3/8...said I hadn't built a boat before.
Response by Deswelham on the 20th Mar 2016
God idea about using thinner strips and laminating

mdlbt.com/17221
First steps - Posted: 13th Apr 2015
Been looking for a hobby for a while now to fill In the small amount of spare time I get and having (mostly) finished my Dads Aerokit 36" (detailed In another blog somewhere here) fire tender a mere 40 odd years after he began It, I decided to see If I could do the hard bit and build a hull myself rather than fitting out what he had already done. I do like to do things my own way though so decided to go from scratch rather than a kit. I can't list marine architect on my CV so I used the Aerokit hull to get a start for the dimensions then altered It all to suit what I thought would be best, especially the spacing between the bulkheads to allow for batteries and radio etc. The superstructure will be different to reflect the er, Interesting weapons specification demanded by the 'customer'. Hopefully we will end up with a wooden hull around 880mm long by 255mm beam, powered by a Caldercraft CEM750S at 12v driving a single prop. I did want to go for a twin motor set-up but the extra cost didn't really justify Itself to me.
I have drawn full scale the plan and side elevation and the bulkheads which have now been photocopied full size. I cut the main keel section from 5mm ply and laminated It with two 9x9mm spruce sections using polyurethane adhesive. Despite clamping to a flat surface during the cure It still ended up a banana which Is why I like to work with metal but never mind, I clamped It to a long radiator In the lounge (understanding wife required here) for a few days and It Is now straight. I have pasted the plan views of the bulkheads to 3mm ply and will be fret sawing them over the next few days If time allows. That's about It so far.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Pav403 on the 6th May 2015
Good luck with the build, hopfully when my kids are old enough I'll get a simlar order for an all singing / dancing super destroyer 😀

Regards

Dave
Response by fid2b on the 12th Feb 2016
Slowest reply ever? Sorry,just noticed this, perhaps by now you have the order?

mdlbt.com/17220
MTGMB - Posted: 13th Apr 2015
This the story, possibly to be a long drawn out one, of a scratch built wooden boat. Nominally for my six year old son, he has provided the spec for the armament, and as no amount of firepower Is too much for a boy, he has asked for torpedoes, guns and missiles, hence the name!
Response by fid2b on the 12th Feb 2016
I've no doubt he'd love it! If it goes bang, explodes or otherwise creates mayhem it's good for him...
Response by DodgyGeezer on the 13th Feb 2016
In that case you may be interested in this site, which has free plans for a 20" PT boat. The good things about it are:

1 - it's simple to make, designed for an 8 year old to be able to make themselves
2 - it's designed to be made in a bedroom, with few tools and little disturbance
3 - it's cheap, materials about £5
4 - it's realistic, so it will look good on the shelf
5 - it's fast, with lots of guns....

http://eezebilt.tk/PTBoat.html
Response by DodgyGeezer on the 14th Feb 2016
"...designed for an 8 year old to be able to make themselves..."

(so long as an adult cuts out the parts...)