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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Muddys Tarpon
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Muddys Tarpon Print Booklet
Author: muddy   Posts: 10   Photos: 32   Subscribers: 0   Views: 1549   Responses: 23   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)
Muddys Tarpon 10 - Posted: 25th May 2017
Hello, with a motor and prop refit, Tarpon went for a float test.
Speed was suitable, she attempted to get on the "Plane", but it
just aint cricket for a bilge hull.. As the man said " That'ul do ".
Good cruising/walking pace and running time.. She is now relegated to an Infill or between builds boat..
The 777 motor did the trick, with a 3 blade 35mm prop running on 7.2 volt Nimh 3500 ma battery pack.
No, where's the bag o'plans and/or the plans handbook..
Happy sailing Muddy....

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 25th May 2017
Nice one 'Cyril'! 👍😎
Response by muddy on the 25th May 2017
Hello and Tnx.. Its deceiving even to the camera at what the speed actually is, it runs so clean in the water..
Muddy ....
Muddys Tarpon 9 - Posted: 14th May 2017
Hello, Not so good at the pond, with the drive motor a 386, only managed walking speed, even at 12 volts, but must say there were very clean lines and little to no water disturbance.. Back in the workshop, a 777 motor was found and fitted, with a new motor mount plate and a rewire.. Fingers crossed.
Muddy ....

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by muddy on the 15th May 2017
Many thanks John.. I,m pretty sure that the 777 will ackle ok.. as there are a couple here with these motors fitted and they do go well with the correct combination of prop, and twin screw, twin motors 777.. I may well hold you to that statement John about the Brushless motors.. Thanks for the interest. Muddy....
Response by John on the 15th May 2017
Not a problem Muddy we are here to help each other. I am converting all my boats (except my Springer pusher tug) to brushless at the moment. They are more efficient. They cost more but they last longer and prices are dropping more people us them.
Response by John on the 15th May 2017
Hi Muddy, have you looked at motor types on the Model Boat Website? It is a good place to start.

Muddys Tarpon 8 - Posted: 14th May 2017
Hello, All sorted ready for the water, but forgot to have a test tank run..Urghhhh !

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Midlife306 on the 14th May 2017
Are you sure it wasn't the prop?
Response by muddy on the 15th May 2017
Hello Wayne, thanks for that, did try a couple of alternate props, with not to much noticeable difference, as i sit and ponder here, my other comment was " It's the newness", the boat is approx 36 x 9 so perhaps a little large for a 386, i was also trying to keep the voltage low at about 6 volts, less battery weight and all that. The refit is ready to go, and water awaits, Many thanks Muddy....
muddy 6 Upperworks - Posted: 8th May 2017
Hello, Started the upper works, and it looks something alike, this is because of the early mishap with the deck opening and making the removable cabin a Drop on unit whereas the original Tarpon cabin was a Drop in unit.. Things had to be altered which made it awkward as a build as you go thingy which takes time.. I should have paid attention in the first place to the drawings. The construction is finished and paint applied, ( I hate painting ) .
She is now at the stage of testing time, or as i used to say "a chuck it in the bag time".. In the 60's I used a duffle bag slung over my shoulder for transportation to the local Cut, by push bike of course, even worse later on when we acquired a Motor cycle, more damage was done in transit than actually sailing. So most models finished up with very little in decorative things, as in cleats , bollards and masts.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by muddy on the 8th May 2017
Hello, Thank you, BUt the camera lies..!
I did think i had cracked it last year, by masking up the the varnished parts after a long drying time, and then continue with the painting..A month or so later, when all was done, i tried to remove the masking tape/newspaper, but found the tape had stuck hard and was a dickens of a job to clean off, it also left residue of glue on the varnish so looked pretty terrible. Talcum powder did work, sprinkling it on the offending residue and rolling it along the deck, but not 100%.. As a footnote, i used Wilko spray enamel on this one's hull with undercoat/primer, all spray cans.. Cheaper than Halfords.. But Halfords were doing 4 spray cans for the price of 3.. The cabin was hand painted with Humbrol enamel.. Muddy
Response by John on the 8th May 2017
Oh dear, Muddy maybe you should have accepted the compliment and left me with my illusion 😁

Response by muddy on the 9th May 2017
Thank you John, and i do apologize for shattering your dream. You never know it could be viewed "in the flesh one day"😋
But I nearly forgot, it must have a tank test before the pond..
Thanks again Muddy....
Tarpon Furniture - Posted: 7th May 2017
Hello, Painting the "Furniture", Hull, Battery Box, Motor mount and rudder servo box, which includes the all important radio setup, Set-up of throttle and rudder servo, direction and throw.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Tarpon 4 - Posted: 30th Apr 2017
Hello, after a winter recess, started the inners furniture, Motor mount, Battery Box and Rudder servo box, plus a dab of paint here and there inside, i have found that a dab of paint inside does help with maintenance, especially when you loose something inside the hull, it tends to be more visible and things are easier to locate. One of the pics shows the Basset Lowke deck ventilators, these were a gift some years ago found in an auction house. Purchased at the time for a few coppers..
The hull has a coat of paint now, and can be Tank Tested..
Many Thanks Muddy.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Tarpon 03 - Posted: 12th Oct 2016
Once the deck's were planked, time to clean up and start on the superstructure. Have never had a boat with a drop in superstructure. They all appear to be fitted as "drop on" type siting on/over a deck combing. This was one big ( foo-parrr ).. So blindly crashed on, building a drop on top..
This mistake didn't really come to light until i drew out the cabin sides , but by this time the combing was well glued and pinned, knowing from past whoopsies or non conforming to drawings it just gets worse as you go along. The deed was done and decided to crack on, if in the finish i don't like it, then i will rebuild the top and dispose of the deck combing. Fitted a Mahogany stem and veneered the transom. Gave the deck's a couple of coats of varnish, 20/80 thinners-varnish.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by figtree7nts on the 12th Oct 2016
Great job on her Deck!
Response by muddy on the 12th Oct 2016
..Many Thanks.. I love a bit of two tone..!

After my winter hibernation, serious..!
Made a start on the hull painting, this is not a job i enjoy, painting.
Tarpon 02 - Posted: 11th Oct 2016
Once the furniture (drive motor rudder and radio gear ) had a first fix/located, the hull was planked, started on the deck with .8mm ply, this did not look right, so decided to plank over the ply and as suitable timber was " in stock ". I think the planks are Lime, and the caulking is .5mm Mahogany.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by figtree7nts on the 11th Oct 2016
You have skills I admire, Looks like a lot of fun job well done!
Response by muddy on the 11th Oct 2016
Hello, Thanks for the comments, maybe not skills just experience. A pal of mine once told me it was anger managment.. ! After planking a cabin cruiser and the deck's with 1820 10mm x .7mm brass pins. Planking jobs always remind me of a Sow's ear and a silk purse, from install to sanding and finally the varnish then the wood blossoms into colour, and its all been worth while..
Thanks again, Muddy
Tarpon Build 01 - Posted: 10th Oct 2016
Build progress, Keel is 5.5mm ply sandwiched between 3mm ply either side, the bulkheads are 5.5mm ply, Planking is 6mm x 3mm Obechi strip glued to adjacent plank and pinned on each bulkhead. The planks are a continuous lay side by side, so a curvature in the planks is apparent at deck level. When the planks are at waterline thereabouts, checked out the fitting of the propshaft, and called into action the old trusty propshaft drill, a modified scrap propshaft tube with a bush removed, two cuts made at 90 degs: across it's face and then filled up as cutting teeth, bending two opposite teeth outward and two opposite teeth very slightly inward, this is to give the tube plenty of cutting room, Being brass it blunt's pretty quick, but is resharpened just as quick.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by jonbliss152 on the 11th Oct 2016
I like to idea of your makeshift cutting tool, I take it you pilot drill a hole far enough in to guide the cutting tube into place?

Cheers Jon
Response by muddy on the 11th Oct 2016
Hello Jon, Not exactly, This cutting tool is not my idea, it originates from 1960's circa Model Boats , I thought originally it was from the book Power Model Boats by Vic Smeed, but i cannot see it at the mo. The drill/reamer, it stems from the Aerokits era when all the keel's of their kits were precut for the propshaft, done for alignment purposes.
So the idea was borrowed for the Tarpon Keel .. But when you come to fit the prop shaft, one has to open up the shaft entry point to the hull, and /or plus drill through a Bulkhead, First step is to ensure the shaft tube, your now modified drill can slide in the keel gap, then gently and slowly drill through into the keel doublers and if necessary on into a bulkhead, if some sort of pilot is required, i have slipped a piece of dowel into the drill bit and this has sufficed. Remembering it was all done with a hand drill or Brace, but modern techo has taken over so we now use a battery operated pistol drill, at a very slow speed. Its the external keel that is mainly the drill guide in this instance. Hope this helps..
Regards muddy.
Muddys Tarpon - Posted: 10th Oct 2016
Tarpon from Model Boats Plans Service, plan No: MM494.
I saw a model of this boat freshly constructed in the early 1960's, with Valve radio gear, Tx and Rx.. Mesmerized is probably the correct word, because of the hull lines, hull dimensions and the radio control, "Bang Bang" rudder control and a Diesel engine for it's power. Perhaps the fact that it covered our small pond in a very small time, was also a contributory factor, But it did and has lovely lines. The Tarpon was started as an "in between build", whilst waiting for either glue or paint to dry, but it did take over, and is now waiting for paint.. Regards Muddy

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Westquay on the 1st May 2017
Oh that needs a nice vintage motor. Especially if it has Basset-Lowke vents! A Taycol or a Basset Lowke motor would be ideal. They CAN be suppressed, they CAN be reversed and the growl they make is something else!
Lovely job in toto, though.

Response by muddy on the 1st May 2017
..Hello Martin, thoroughly agree, but have never owned one, the Japanese stuff arrived early 1960’s ishhh !, and I used them.
Think the Taycol motors were in comparison expensive, and about this time i was an apprentice.
Only tend to use 2 motors here, either the old reliable 386 from Howes usually at £3 a go or the 777 from Model Motors Direct.
Many thanks for your interest, and i will keep an eye on ebay , lol...
Regards Muddy.
Response by Westquay on the 1st May 2017
Understood Muddy, I have been lucky to find some old motors and get them very cheaply, plus one came with my Crash Tender when I was 11 and one came with an MTB a neighbour gave me.

Good luck anyway.