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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender
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Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender Print Booklet
Author: robbob   Posts: 95   Photos: 577   Subscribers: 20   Views: 30679   Responses: 270   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

Showing page 3 of 10   |   Jump to page: 1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9   10
The radio aerial & handrails. - Posted: 12th Apr 2017
Only the aerial base is supplied in the set of white metal fittings so it needs a rod added to complete it.
First I bored out a hole through the base using a 2mm bit in a pin drill and then I used a short length of 2mm brass rod for the aerial. This rod was tapped with a 2mm thread and a nut filed to a round profile used as an end stop on the thread.
I left sufficient thread below the base for fixing through the tapered aerial base, cabin roof and the reinforcing piece on the underside of the wheelhouse roof.
The upper end of the rod was fitted with a hand turned knob as a finishing piece and for safety and the piece was sprayed with etch primer and two coats of white gloss.
Finally I tapped a 2mm thread into a small piece of brass which was glued to the underside of the roof for the piece to screw into.
The handrail bases were bought on-line from Polly Model Engineering and are 3½" gauge stanchions, normally used on steam locomotives, along with some 3/32" stainless steel rod and 8BA fixing nuts and washers.
The fitting of these was quite straightforward but the two rails on the wheelhouse roof need to be bent to follow the roof curvature. The rods are fixed into the stanchions with a drop of thin superglue.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Mataroa on the 14th Apr 2017
Hi Robbob i must say you did incredible job on the RAF Crash Tend and done it to such a high standard in model boating thats me.I sent you a pm

Response by billmcl61 on the 15th Apr 2017
Hi Robbob,
Dang that boat is big, been following your very impressive build for a while now, I just had no idea of the scale of it until I saw it in it's cradle. And at last I've finally made my first post. Perhaps now I'll get my finger out and make some progress with my wee corvette.
Regards Bill
Response by robbob on the 15th Apr 2017
Hi Bill.
Congratulations on your first posting...don't be shy.
Being a larger model, at 1/12 the scale, the detailing is probably easier as a result.
Now get back to that corvette and get a build blog going 😁
The davit. - Posted: 9th Apr 2017
The davit needs some modification to attach it to the boat and some extra bits to improve it’s looks so the first thing to do was file off the casting marks and fill some of the hollows in the white metal surface.
The false winch block part of the casting was removed from the upper end and a slot cut into the casting to take the hook of a brass tackle block which was secured with a brass hinge pin.
A couple of plasticard cheeks were then added to the sides of the winch mechanism and a crank handle added too.
The most difficult part was devising a means to attach the davit to the cabin wall that would allow it to swivel out over the deck from it’s ‘parked’ position. This also had to be easily removable so that the centre deck can be removed for access to the motor compartment.
First the davit attachment points were modified by filing a deeper recess into the casting and the tabs drilled with a 2mm bit for the hinge bolts.
I used the earth pin from a mains plug filed down to fit into the casting recess to act as a hinge block, the ends were drilled and tapped with a 2mm thread for the hinge pin bolts.
The hinge block was then drilled and tapped to take a 3mm fixing stud and also a plain 2mm locating pin
and then mounted on a plasticard mount and spacer to give the davit clearance to swing out and clear the cut-out in the engine room roof.
The ‘foot’ of the davit was also modified from square to semi-circular to clear the cabin wall as it rotates.
The whole assembly was etch primed and brush painted in ‘gun metal’ grey.
Finally a lifting hook and rope was attached to the winch mechanism.
The cabin wall was drilled with a locating pin hole and another for the 3mm fixing stud, the attachment is by a wing nut to allow quick and easy removal and re-fitting when required.
The finished davit now looks a million times better and is also partially functional 😁.
The build is nearing completion now and I hope that you are enjoying reading my blog as much as I am writing it, please let me know if it's getting boring though, all comments welcome...good or bad 😜.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 30th May 2017
Hello Zdeněk.
Thank you for your compliments.
Rob 😋
Response by AllenA on the 30th May 2017
Response by mbarker on the 9th Jul 2017
Beautiful !👍
The tow hook & chafing plate - Posted: 7th Apr 2017
As supplied, the tow hook consists of two rather ugly lumps of metal that need to be coupled together, and a further piece, the ‘chafing plate’ which is not supplied, made to complete the fitting.
I started be adding some detail to the main component in the form of some steel rod to represent the lever mechanism and operating handle.
The body of the tow hook then has to be attached to the retaining plate with an articulated coupling which I made from some brass tube, copper wire and a 2mm nut & bolt.
The retaining plate was also drilled to take some 2mm cap head screws for fixing through the tow hook deck.
The finished piece, which now looks a bit more like the drawings and photographs, was brush painted in ‘gun metal’ grey and a piece if heat shrink added to the handle as a grip.
The chafing plate was formed from some 4mm square plasticard rod which was immersed in boiling water to soften it sufficiently for it to be bent to the required radius.
The bending process unfortunately distorts the profile so this was restored and improved by rubbing it flat on some coarse abrasive paper.
A piece of plasticard sheet was marked and cut to a corresponding radius to form the base of the chafing plate and some further plasticard wedges added to form the end stops.
This piece was also pained gun metal grey.
The chafing plate is fixed to the deck with 2 cap head screws and I also set a brass pin into the centre position which locates into a hole in the underside of the tow hook to hold it in place.
Next on the list of fittings is the davit 😁

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 17th Jul 2017
Very neat 👍👍
Cockpit deck brass features. - Posted: 4th Apr 2017
The aft cockpit deck has two drain holes on the real boat that discharge through a pair of outlets on the transom if the boat takes on any water in the cockpit well.
On my model the drains are not connected to the outlets, that’s taking the scale accuracy a bit too far 😜, nevertheless I don’t want a couple of holes in my deck letting in water so I need to fill them in with some drain gratings.
I made these from some 10mm thick wall brass tubing and some 2mm brass rod.
First I filed three narrow slots into the end of the brass tube about half the thickness of the brass rod and soft soldered them into the slots.
The rod was then filed flush to the top of the tube to flatten the profile and form the grating slots, and the overhang filed flush with the tube sides.
I used a pipe cutter to separate the finished piece from the brass tube and then repeated the process for the second fitting.
The grating needs to be blocked so that It doesn’t let water through and I did this by forming a disc out of black plasticard the same diameter as the tube bore as a stopper and filling the base with epoxy to form the seal, the finished drains were then glued into the deck panel flush with the planking.
I used some 1.5mm brass rod bent and fashioned to form the handles for the hatches and these were fixed with epoxy through holes in the panel.
Another brass feature on the deck are the rivets around the battery hatch, these are actually some domed rivets with a 2mm head and 1mm shaft that I bought online from RB Models (Poland) along with some other excellent items from their range of ships fittings.

Finally the deck panel and main hatch cover were sprayed with several coats of satin lacquer.
The panel will need some further work to incorporate the towing hook stays and I’ll cover that in another posting.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Planking…. part 3 - Posted: 3rd Apr 2017
The aft cockpit deck has quite a few features that will test my novice planking abilities so I started the process by very carefully measuring off the drawings and marking out the positions of the main access hatch, battery hatch and the rear drain holes.
I want the main access hatch to be removable so I cut this out from the 4mm ply panel with a Stanley knife and put it aside to work on later, the battery hatch will be non-opening and will have a false panel to represent it. I also pre-cut the drain holes but I intend to plank over these and then open out the holes later.
The main hatch aperture was first bordered with 4mm maple strip with mitred corners, and the battery hatch with 6mm strip with mitred and radiused corners as per the Vosper drawings. The rear edge of the deck incorporates the two drains and I used some 2mm ply for the raised portion of this area.
With these borders in place I then applied plasticard caulking strips to their edges and then proceeded to lay the 7mm maple strips onto the deck, working out from the centre line until the area was fully planked. Fortunately the spacing worked out quite well and did not requiring any narrow strips at the borders.
After trimming all of the ’caulking’ flush to the planks with a sharp chisel the whole panel was sanded smooth.
As I wanted a paint finish on the two hatches these were left un-planked so I shaped a piece of 1.5mm ply for the main hatch to bring it up flush with the planking and glued the two together after cutting out two small square holes that will form the lifting handles.
A smaller 1.5mm panel was also made to form a false battery hatch cover, also with a lifting handle cut-out, and this will be painted before it’s glued down.
A couple of bearers were fixed to the underside of the panel to support the removable hatch.
After the glue had fully cured the whole deck was given a single coat of spray lacquer to seal the surface and two hatches were primed and painted the same colour as the main decks and then the false battery hatch cover glued down.
I will add some brass fitting details in the next stage before the deck panel receives the final coats of lacquer.
Thankfully that’s all the planking in place and I am extremely pleased with the way it’s turned out 😁

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Threelegs on the 4th Apr 2017
Having planked my original 46inch Crash tender in preference to painting, I am most impressed by your attempts. Mine was a first attempt and while turning out well I think yours looks better. Well done. Threelegs
Planking…part 2 - Posted: 2nd Apr 2017
After a successful first attempt at planking the tow-hook deck I then did the same to the mid deck.
I placed a 5mm border of maple with mitred corners, but I stepped it out around the forward cabin access door so that the completed deck panel can be dropped and slid into place beneath the door threshold.
The planking was placed working out from the centre line to keep the spacing even, and when the CA had fully set the black plasticard ‘caulking’ was trimmed flush with a sharp chisel and the whole surface sanded smooth.
There is a small detail on this deck which is identified on the Vosper drawing as a ‘fuel tank sounding’, a sort of dipstick access point I suppose.
This part is not supplied in the metal fittings kit so and I fabricated this from a piece of 10mm brass tube with a plasticard insert to replicate the detail.
This was then painted metallic silver and let into the deck after cutting a 10mm diameter hole through the planking.
To cut this hole I used a short piece of 10mm thin wall brass tube with a sharp edge filed on its internal bore so that it acted as a sort of ‘cookie cutter’ and it produced a neat and accurately sized hole in the deck planking.
The ‘step’ formed by the door and frame was painted to match the door and then the complete deck panel sprayed with several coats of satin lacquer for the final finish.
I'm getting the hang of this planking lark so confidence is high as I move on to tackle the far more challenging cockpit deck 🤔

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Planking...part 1. - Posted: 2nd Apr 2017
As a novice boat builder I have never done any planking before but after seeing some fine examples on other crash tender decks and read other blog descriptions of the process I thought I’d give it a try as it would be more pleasing to the eye than a plain painted surface. I’m not sure how true to the prototype the planking is on a RAF Crash Tender as it’s not described in the Vosper documentation but I think some ‘modelling licence’ is justified for the visual effect.
The choice of materials, planking sizing and the method of ‘caulking’ were all studied in detail in the blogs and discussions and I finally decided on 7mm x 1.5mm maple for the planking and some .7mm black plasticard cut into fine strips for the caulking.
All the required materials were ordered from Cornwall Model Boats and all arrived remarkably quickly packed in a long cardboard tube two days later… very good service and quality materials!
I made a practice piece to test the process and materials before committing it to the boat, I used a teak stain on the wood as a test as well but decided I preferred the natural colour of the maple after it was lacquered with a few coats of satin finish.
When I felt I was sufficiently proficient to start for real I elected to do the relatively small area of the tow hook deck first.
This was marked out to get the correct centering of the planks and I commenced with the application of a 5mm border with mitred corners and the plasticard caulking strips on the inside edges.
The maple planking is very easy to cut and trim and Is also reasonably consistent in width and thickness.
I’m using a medium cyano glue for all of this as it grabs very quickly so that I can work at a reasonable pace but my finger-tips unavoidably end up getting stuck occasionally too 😡
Working from the centre line outwards the maple strips and caulking were fixed down, the final outer pieces on each side needed to be slightly wider to fill the space but the difference is barely noticeable.
The ‘caulking ‘ was carefully trimmed flush with the deck with a very sharp half inch chisel and the whole surface sanded smooth.
Several coats of acrylic satin lacquer were then applied by brush as I decided it would be easier than masking up the surrounding areas.
Buoyed by the success of this I think I'll do the mid-deck and the cockpit too 😁

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Deck fittings, portholes and a door knob ! - Posted: 1st Apr 2017
Now that the painting is finished I can start putting on some of the white metal deck fittings.
I had previously cleaned these up with a file and wire wool and sprayed them all with etch primer, some were drilled to take threaded studs to fix them through the deck or as a reinforcement for epoxy glue fixing into the deck, and some pierced to take a short fixing pin. The chain pipe was drilled out to make it look more realistic.
They were all brush painted with some Tamiya metallic acrylic paint, I chose ‘gun metal’ for this as I want to paint some other fittings and window frames with a metallic silver finish as a contrast.
The portholes were painted with the same colour as the cabin sides and glazed with the perspex that was supplied with the kit, 'canopy glue' was used for this as I read that cyano glue would 'mist' the plastic.
Another small detail I thought to add was a brass knob for the cabin door, this was hand turned from some brass rod and drilled out to take a 2mm threaded stud for fixing through the door.
A nice little finishing detail I think, and I'm quite enjoying working with brass 😁

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
The flagstaff. - Posted: 26th Mar 2017
While waiting for paint and lacquer to dry I thought I'd try making a flagstaff to go at the stern to take an RAF ensign that I'd like to fit.
I used a short length of 5mm brass tube set into a circular flange that I shaped from some brass sheet.
The hole in the flange was filed out to take the 5mm tube at an angle and was soft soldered into place, a 2mm nut was then press fitted into the base of the tube and secured with a drop of superglue. The pole was made from some 2mm brass rod tapped with a 2mm thread on one end. A short length of 4mm rod was bored out with a 2mm hole and was soft soldered close to the end to fit snugly into the 5mm base tube to act as a spacer, and another short piece of brass hand turned to make a knob at the upper end.
During initial construction I had set a wood block below the deck at this point to provide support for a flagstaff (always thinking ahead 😉) and this was drilled out at an angle for the 5mm base which was epoxied in place ensuring that base was seated correctly and the flagstaff was vertically aligned.
The length of the flagstaff is about 11cm above the deck and is removable for transportation.
It turned out really well and I will keep the brass finish but give it a coat of clear lacquer to prevent it tarnishing.
I will order the two flags (flagstaff and mast) from Mike Alsop flags & ensigns as soon as I have worked out the correct sizes for 1:12 scale.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Painting the deck & superstructure. - Posted: 25th Mar 2017
Although the colour of the grey primer and that of the textured finish look quite good together I am committed to use the custom colour paint that I had mixed for the deck finish.
The masking process took a while to do thoroughly as I didn’t want any overspray problems at this late stage but once I was satisfied I applied the first light coat of the ‘BS631 RAF Light Grey’ finishing coat.
After a 20 minutes or so the second light coat was applied and then left overnight to harden, two coats on the deck is sufficient as I don’t want to fill the texture finish and ruin the effect.
The deck was then masked to leave the cabin sides and superstructure exposed so that I could put a third and fourth coat of the colour on those areas.
The resulting gloss finish looks quite good and will be a good contrast to the textured decks that will be finished in matt lacquer.
The masking on the decks was then removed and the cabins and superstructure masked up to just expose the decks to receive two light coats of the Halfords matt lacquer.
Everything was left for a few days to harden before all the masking was removed to reveal the final result of the painting process.
The overall result is very pleasing and was well worth all the time and materials used to achieve it.
The custom colour has a slightly 'greenish' hue in contrast to the grey primer that I have been looking at up until now and took a while to get accustomed to but I can say that now really like the colour scheme and that it is reasonably true to the prototype 😁

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by pmdevlin on the 26th Mar 2017
Hey Rob, I'm glad you mentioned the greenish hue, I have the same, and have always pondered over if it was correct. When I painted my 3 footer, in the BS 631 It had the green look, so when I did the 4 footer I used a different paint supplier, and it was the same. I wonder if over time the definition of the colour has changed? Coming along nice, its very time consuming isn't it!

As you have 94, and I have 93, same boats but subtle differences as they were in real life, it would be very nice to get them together some day👍
Response by robbob on the 26th Mar 2017
Hi Paul.
It looks like our paint colours are very similar so the BS colour mix is consistent which is good to know. My 94 is coming along slowly as I have been taking a lot of time getting the paint finishes right and dried and hardened but that has also meant that I could spend time between paint coats to do some detail work as you will see soon.
Side by side yours would win the beauty contest and undoubtedly a race too 😎

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