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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender
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mdlbt.com/23951
Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender Print Booklet
Author: robbob   Posts: 95   Photos: 574   Subscribers: 19   Views: 22473   Responses: 263   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

Showing page 5 of 10   |   Jump to page: 1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9   10  

mdlbt.com/25509
Spraying the hull black. - Posted: 19th Jan 2017
Now that the red oxide has dried and hardened it’s time to mask it off in preparation of spraying the upper hull black.
First I had to very carefully flat back the ridge in the red oxide paint left by the edge of the masking tape that might prevent the new masking tape laying flat.
I chose two types of Tamiya tape, the first is the very thin and flexible type to get the sharp edge and this was then overlaid with the wider flexible variety.
Once this initial masking edge was established all round the hull and at deck level I could mask up the rest fully.
As an experiment and to prevent any possible bleed through of solvents through regular newspaper onto my lovely red oxide anti-fouling I chose to mask with some ’Bacofoil’ which actually works very well for this purpose as it is quite strong and easily folded and formed to the hull shape.
I didn’t use too much of this from the roll, and my wife never noticed it’s absence from the kitchen whilst I was nicking it …result !
The hull was thoroughly wiped over with a tack cloth and panel wipe to remove any traces of contaminants that could spoil the paint finish and then it went into the booth.
The pre-warmed paint went on very easily but at one point I noticed a bit of blooming on the surface in a few places but much to my relief this soon disappeared. Even after only one coat the finish looked very smooth and glossy.
I left this first coat for a day or two to fully harden before wet flatting it down with an 800 grade abrasive.
The second and third coats were applied in the same way, each left to harden for a day or more before flatting with a yet finer grades wet & dry paper.
With the final coat on the finish greatly exceeded my expectations 😎
The masking tape and foil was very carefully removed to reveal a very sharp line where black meets red although this will be covered with the white ‘Trimline’ tape I bought from SHG Model Supplies at the Bristol model show in the summer.
After a further couple of days drying and hardening I gave the black paint a bit of a polish with some Halfords cutting/polishing compound.
I’m extremely pleased with this finish and at the same time frightened to death that I’ll ruin it in some way with a clumsy knock or in the lettering and lacquering stages 😓 …

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Missouri on the 28th Jan 2017
Impressive finish.
Response by RNinMunich on the 17th Jul 2017
Nice one Cyril! 👍👍👍😉
That's what I meant earlier with the Tamiya tape, great lines. 😎
Response by robbob on the 17th Jul 2017
No flies on me mate 😁

mdlbt.com/25464
Navigation lights and circuitry - Posted: 17th Jan 2017
The white metal fittings for the port and starboard navigation lights were hollowed out with a burr in a Dremel tool and a small hole made for the LED lens to go through.
After the wiring was soldered onto the LED’s and tested they were set into the fittings with some epoxy. I have pre-drilled the cabin roof and sides for all the fittings and there’s enough wire on each to go to the supply and switching circuit board that will be in the cabin.
All of the lighting, including the searchlight, is switched by R/C so I made a power distribution and switching circuit from ‘Veroboard’, my favourite prototyping tool for circuit development.
Following my initial drawing of the lighting circuits I laid out the component positions and cut the Veroboard tracks to suit. Each LED is fed through a separate correctly rated current limiting resistor.
One switched circuit controls the three navigation lights and the mast light and a separate switched circuit activates the searchlight.
I included a spare position on the first circuit just in case I found justification to fit the mysterious stern navigation light that appears in photographs of the 93 boat, research into this has led to a bit of a dead end but nevertheless it’s good to have the capacity to add another light elsewhere if necessary, perhaps the cabin interior, without too much re-wiring.
The large ceramic resistor is for the searchlight LED, it only needs to be a 2watt type but I couldn’t find a 3R9 resistor rated at less than 3watts in my bits box, it’ll do the job OK but it looks disproportionally large compared to it’s ¼ watt neighbours.
Both lighting circuits are switched separately by R/C switches from Hobbyking, these Turnigy receiver controlled switches are rated at 30v 10A max so they are capable of some heavy switching if required so my little lighting circuits present no problems for them.
One important consideration is that the negative supply to the lighting and the negative supply to the receiver have to be bridged for the switches to operate correctly, and this clearly explained in the instruction that come with the switches.
The Veroboard has pins soldered into it for the wiring connections, all will be soldered and insulated and the board installed in the forward cabin, I’ll also include a separate charge/operate switch for the battery supply close by.
Everything has been tested on the bench and all works as intended, as another will attest, it’s advisable not to do this on the lounge table in case of misplaced confidence in electrical design 😜

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/25426
The wheelhouse navigation light. - Posted: 16th Jan 2017
While the paint is drying on the hull there’s time to continue working on more of the white metal fittings.
The body of the small navigation light on the wheelhouse roof is just big enough to set a small 3mm blue LED into so I started hollowing it out with a fine drill bit in a pin drill.
The technique is to start with a small bit and by drilling one or two turns at a time and the backing the drill out to remove the swarf, this ensures that the bit does not jam in the very soft white metal, and then gradually increasing the bit size to the required diameter for the 3mm LED.
The wire for the LED was taken from a miniature transformer from a defunct power supply, this tinned copper wire is very fine and is insulated with enamel.
The legs of the LED were trimmed as short as possible and the wire soldered to each and insulated with some fine heat shrink, then the pair of wires were passed through some more heat shrink to form the connection cable and shrunk down.
The base of the LED was also filed down slightly to reduce it’s diameter for a snug fit in the body of the fitting.
After a quick test with a battery and dropper resistor the LED was epoxied into the body.
Before painting the LED was ‘frosted’ with a fine abrasive and the body cleaned up ready for paint.
I used some Humbrol ‘Maskol’ on the LED before spraying with some white gloss.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by vosper on the 16th Jan 2017
Hi Rob, Can you give some advice about switches for navigation lights as I nearly had a disaster on the lounge table due to a short circuit ?
Response by robbob on the 16th Jan 2017
Hi Vosper.
The next blog will be about the port and starboard nav lights and the associated switching circuitry for all the lighting...so stay tuned 😋.
Sorry to hear about you near miss on the 'G plan' 😱
Robbob.
Response by vosper on the 17th Jan 2017
Thanks, looking forward to the next instalment, more of a near miss for my head on the block, phew !

mdlbt.com/25351
Spraying the ‘anti fouling’ - Posted: 14th Jan 2017
I have seen examples of this boat with a bright red gloss finish for the anti-fouling and as nice and shiny as it looks I have decided to be true to the original colour scheme as much as possible.
Red oxide primer is a very close colour match to anti fouling paint, apparently, so I found some Simoniz red oxide paint on eBay at a very good price. I’m led to believe that one paint maker (Holts ?) makes the same paint for Halfords, Simoniz and others, it’s an acrylic paint with a matt finish so there should be no compatibility problems.
Masking off the hull with a couple of layers of newspaper is quick and easy and it’s ready to go into the spray booth.
First coat on and it’s looking good, second coat after 20 minutes or so and I’m really happy with the results and the Simoniz paint is perfectly compatible with the Halfords primer.
For good measure I’ll spray a third coat after the first two have hardened overnight, I’ll give the surface a very light key with a fine abrasive pad first.
Then it’s on to the rest of the hull with the black gloss.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by boaty on the 17th Jan 2017
😎Hi

I used the Halfords red primer on my 34 inch Crash Tender, built it up over three coats and when dry rubbed it down lightly with Meguiars Ultimate Compound. It gave it a nice shine.

The Meguiars Compound is also sold in Halfords. Its not cheap but it has a lot of other uses like removing fine scratches not only on vehicles as I had used it a couple of times on model boats.

Boaty

mdlbt.com/25130
Marking the waterline. - Posted: 6th Jan 2017
This is the bit that I have not been looking forward too very much as I recall making a real hash of it on my last attempt as an enthusiastic teenager .
I had read a few blogs and forum topics on this and there seem to be a number of techniques employed to do this including the use of pencils on blocks, bathtubs and talcum powder and lengths of elasticated string all of which I’m sure will eventually achieve the desired results but I think I’ll adopt a slightly more ‘Hi Tech’ approach.
First of all I don’t really know how the boat will sit in the water until it’s completely fitted out and finished and even then the waterline could look wrong so In the interests of scale accuracy I have decided to work from the Vosper drawings and do it ‘to scale’ because in reality this model will spend more time out of the water than in it so I’m not too bothered if the true waterline is a bit off.
As I’m quite a ‘DIY’ buff and I like tools and gadgets so I decided to treat myself to an late Xmas present and invest in a Bosch laser level, the model I chose has a self-levelling feature and projects very fine and totally accurate ‘cross hair’ lines. I know I will find this gadget useful for lots of DIY projects so I don’t mind the expense, (as I decided in self-justification!)
The Vosper drawings were used to scale from to accurately mark the waterline points on the bow and the stern and then the hull was placed inverted on the bench. The laser level was clamped to a stepladder about five feet away and then the hull was raised/lowered on blocks fore and aft to get the horizontal laser line to hit the bow and stern marks accurately.
The point at which the laser line crossed the rubbing strakes seemed to correspond with the same positions as per the Vosper drawing so I’m quite confident with the measurements.
A pencil was used to make a series of dash markings on the hull following the laser line.
The hull was then spun 180 degrees and levelled and the ‘laser guided’ marking process repeated.
Joining the lines across the transom and some measuring confirmed that the waterline was the same on both sides at the stern.
A final check was made by standing the hull on it’s transom and projecting a vertical line along the keel so that the projected horizontal line intersected the points at which the waterlines crossed the rubbing strakes, happily they did so within a couple of millimetres.
I applied some good quality masking tape around the hull, paying particular attention to the points where it crosses the strakes, in preparation to masking and spraying the ‘anti-fouling’ red oxide paint.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RHBaker on the 6th Jan 2017
Have used a variant of this for some years.
Get the hull level in both axes, on a flat, level, surface. I use a spirit level to do this.
Then, using a laser level, carefully work your way around the hull, marking the laser points at regular intervals. Join the points in pencil and then reinforce them using masking tape.
Have also used this technique to ensure bulwarks are level during construction and even the mast is vertical as my laser beam can be turned through 90 degrees.
Makes this task much easier and more accurate.
Response by RNinMunich on the 17th Jul 2017
Great idea 👍👍👍 I have one in the cupboard that's almost never been used, now it will be, first customer: Sea Scout 'Jessica'.
Doug 😎
PS: A word to the wise regarding masking tape! A few years ago I discovered Tamiya tape (from the plastic magic scene!)
It comes in various widths is very flexible and so copes with complex curves with ease and gives a superb clean line, without the slight 'stepping effect' that using lots of short pieces to approximate curves does 🤔

mdlbt.com/25115
Painting the wheelhouse & forward cabin roofs. - Posted: 6th Jan 2017
Back to the painting now, starting with the wheelhouse and forward cabin roofs that need a couple of coats of white primer over the grey primer which has been flatted down. The two coats of white primer were also flatted down and left for a day to harden before the first coat of Halfords ‘Appliance White’ gloss was sprayed on. This initial gloss coat is to see how the gloss goes on and to reveal any surface defects. I still need to drill more holes for some white metal fittings and make some tapered circular spacers for the searchlight and aerial bases so the final gloss coats will go on after that. After the first gloss coat dried I could still see some wood grain ‘grinning’ through the finish so I expect I’ll need to put on a few gloss coats with a thorough flatting down between before I achieve the level of finish I’m aiming for.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/24909
Radio kit & batteries - Posted: 28th Dec 2016
My decision to include functional lighting and a rotating searchlight in addition to the usual throttle and rudder functions meant that I had to revise my initial choice of radio kit from a two channel system to at least a four channel system.
My final choice was actually a Turnigy TGY-i6 six channel system from Hobbyking. The reviews I read during my research were very complimentary and it certainly fitted within my budget, I actually view it as extraordinary value for money at £44 for the TX/RX combination, my last R/C system was a MacGregor single channel 'clunk-click' system for £20 back in 1970-something when that sum was my weeks wage! 😯
The programming options are predominantly for aircraft and helicopter modellers but that's not a problem as there's all the basic programmable options in the menus that I need.
I think I ordered the wrong 'type' of transmitter as I want the throttle on the left with a centre spring return and the rudder on the right stick, a quick strip down and butchers at the internals has shown that I can transpose the stick/pot/gimbal assemblies very easily to suit my preference and swap their functions in the menu options.
The standard of construction is remarkably good for such a low cost piece of technology, speaking as someone who has seen and worked on the insides of innumerable bits of broadcast TV kit.
The transmitter has four assignable switches, I'll use two for the lighting circuits, and one of the two pots will be ideal for my rotating searchlight.
The rudder servo is a Futaba S3003 standard servo with plastic gears, I think anything more would be overkill.
I also bought a couple of Turnigy R/C switches to control the lighting circuits and NiMh battery packs for the receiver and lighting supplies as I didn't want to feed these from the main batteries.
I cobbled it all together on the bench for a quick test and it all works just as expected including running up the motor through the ESC, I have a programming card for that and I will need to set up the ESC before it goes in the water.
The main battery packs are two 9.6v 5000mAh NiMh packs by Vapextech which are wired in series, they sit on a bearers on either side of the propshaft aft of the motor, the receiver battery pack sits between them and all will be strapped down with cable ties.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by ukengineman on the 29th Dec 2016
The Hobbyking ESC you are using has a BEC. I can see some other batteries which may be just to power the lights etc but if you are going to power the Rx from them you would be advised to remove the positive pin from the ESC connector that plugs into the Rx and of course insulate it.
Alan
Response by robbob on the 29th Dec 2016
Hi Alan.
Good advice as always from you my friend 👍 but I had already taken this into account with a 'note to self' in an earlier blog posting to avoid double powering the receiver.
The second battery that you see in the picture is a 6v pack just for the lighting circuits, I will be charging this on a separate changeover charge/operate switch. The receiver power switch that I have already has this function built in.
Rob.

mdlbt.com/24893
The Mast - part 2. - Posted: 27th Dec 2016
I made a fitting from some 1.5mm copper wire formed into loops for the rigging which will attach to the top of the mast, all this was epoxied into place on the main body of the mast.
Hiding the wiring invisibly down the mast legs is not possible so I just superglued it in place, one wire per leg, and when painted it blends (sort of!) into the leg profile and is not too conspicuous.
The feet of the mast legs were hand drilled with a 2.5mm bit in a pin drill and 3mm stainless steel studs wound into them, the white metal is so soft that the stud self-cuts its own thread.
I have cut and shaped some plasticard wedges to go between the metal feet of the mast and the cabin roof so that it sits properly on the sloping roof when bolted down on the studs.
I will need to find some 1/12 scale rigging blocks and cord at a later stage and perhaps an RAF ensign flag If I can find something suitable, I think BECC have a range.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 28th Dec 2016
Hi Paul.
All interesting stuff that I think I have heard before on here or another site, but I can't find anything on the web about Mike and his company, so despite your insistence (no offence) I may 'deviate from a true course' myself and go with the regular ensign if I decide to put one on the mast.
Rob.
Response by pmdevlin on the 28th Dec 2016
Hi Rob, its Mike Alsop scale flags he was at the Blackpool model boat show, nice silk flags, he will be able to do whatever version you want. Having had both, the becc tend to be very stiff, and the colour fades quick. Couple of years on and the silk ensign still looks very realistic, but choice is up to you, 👍
Response by robbob on the 28th Dec 2016
Hi Paul.
OK, I have found some info here: http://www.wicksteedparkmbc.com/links.html
So I might just follow this up.
Cheers 👍
Rob.

mdlbt.com/24892
The Mast - part 1. - Posted: 27th Dec 2016
As the painting process will take some time between stages I have started work on the white metal fittings, starting with the mast, on which I want to put a functional navigation light.
The mast, as supplied, is in two parts that need to be jointed, and using a brass tube for the upper section instead of the solid casting will allow some wires to be incorporated internally.
I started by adapting a brass dome head nut that I happened to have to hand by rounding off the flats and boring some cross holes through it.
The internal size of the nut is enough to take a 3mm white LED so I filed the top of the LED flat and 'frosted' the body with some abrasive paper.
The wiring was then soldered to the LED and heat shrink applied for insulation.
The brass tube was cut to length and a slot filed into the lower part for the wiring to exit.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/24808
Priming the hull. - Posted: 23rd Dec 2016
Again, not a particularly exciting stage of the project so there's not too much to say here. 😑
The hull is ready for its primer coats, but I first masked off the hull around the water pickup tube flange, skeg and propshaft and gave them a coat of etch primer to ensure that subsequent paint layers stick properly and after that had dried I put down the first coat of Halfords grey primer after pre-warming the spray can in a bucket of warm water.
The second coat went on about 20 minutes later. I will leave the primer to dry and harden for a few days before I flat it down in preparation for more paint.
In the meantime I'll start doing some work on the white metal fittings, hopefully that will be more interesting to read !

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by pilgrim on the 25th Dec 2016
Excellent article 5 pages of very informative advice.
I am putting the final touches to my 1:35 crash tender and like many have found my experience within the auto trade and paints of various types extreemly useful.
Purchase all paint from my local automotive supplier, lots more for your £.
This is the first boat I have built since 1957! when I used an old railway loco motor and a clunk click MacGregor RC unit. Those were the days before all the modern technology available to day.
👍
thank you

Response by chumbucket on the 27th Dec 2016
Glad your up to date with all the paints out there,some of them can really be JUNK!!!Keep going,lookin good!!!Now that Christmas is out of the way I can start cleaning this place up too get back to building.Take a look at our club web site sometime (PMPBA )we are running our boats in the Tualatin Commons,very nice pond to run them in.Happy Hollidays and enjoy your build
Response by robbob on the 27th Dec 2016
The paint brand I am using is widely used by UK modellers and I too would also avoid bargain basement paints for the reasons you describe. I still need to find somewhere for this boats maiden voyage, other than the test tank (bath!), but that's not going to be until the spring.

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