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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender
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mdlbt.com/23951
Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender Print Booklet
Author: robbob   Posts: 95   Photos: 577   Subscribers: 19   Views: 25097   Responses: 265   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

Showing page 6 of 10   |   Jump to page: 1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9   10  

mdlbt.com/24780
Detailing the transom. - Posted: 21st Dec 2016
The real boat had some detail on the transom which I would like to incorporate on my model, these are the two main engine exhausts and the pump engine exhaust and there are also two small drain outlets from the rear cockpit.
As my ESC is water-cooled I want to use the pump engine exhaust detail as my cooling water outlet.
I have used brass portholes as the basis for the exhaust details as they look very similar to the real thing with the rivet holes around the circumferences, the two main engine exhausts are 8mm internal diameter and the pump exhaust is a 6mm internal diameter type.
I first removed the rear flanges of the larger portholes by rubbing them flat over some wet & dry paper so that they will sit flush on the transom.
I left the flange on the 6mm porthole as it will help locate the assembly in the transom.
I used a 6mm external brass tube set into the smaller porthole with a very short protrusion on the external side and about 25mm to pass through the hull to leave 20mm inside the boat to connect the flexible silicone water tube to.
Once I was happy with the positioning of the details I drilled the single hole for the water outlet and slightly countersunk the outside of the hole to allow for the small flange on the rear of the port hole
The tube was fixed into the porthole with a light smear of epoxy and when set the assembly was given a coat of etch primer and a couple of light light coats of black gloss and then set aside as I won't fix it in place until the hull has received it final coats of black gloss.
I also etch primed and painted the two larger exhaust pipe flanges ready for glueing to the transom.
If I can find a couple of even smaller brass portholes, perhaps 3mm, I may also fit them as the cockpit drain ports in the finishing stages.
The hull will get a couple of overall coats of clear lacquer to seal this transom detailing and the lettering decals as well.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/24720
Spraying the deck and superstructure. - Posted: 18th Dec 2016
As the spray booth seems to be working as planned I next decided to put some primer on the deck and superstructure.
Not much to say about this really, it's not a particularly creative or rewarding process but as this is the foundation of the paint process it's as important as the final coat and thus worth getting right from the outset.
After masking off the various openings and the hull I put down the first coat of Halfords grey primer.
I pre-warmed the can in a bucket of warm water for a short while and gave it a thorough shake for the prescribed two minutes and it seemed to go on very easily with an even coating. The booth is quite roomy and very easy to move the can around to get into the difficult areas without removing the boat from the booth to turn it around.
A second was applied after about 15 minutes and the whole thing left to dry in the booth.
I'll tackle the hull next but first I need to mark out the transom for some detailing and drill a hole into my precious hull for the water cooling outlet.
Last picture is yours truly, first and last time you'll see me, much better looking with the mask on I've been told 👋

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RedRider on the 19th Dec 2016
Nice work mate.....

mdlbt.com/24709
Spray painting test in the booth. - Posted: 15th Dec 2016
Now that the spray booth is constructed I decided to put it, and the painting turntable to the test.
Although the booth is big enough to take the whole boat I thought I'd start with something small and so I chose the cabin roofs and hatches for their first coat of white primer, the turntable allows me to rotate the piece to get an even coverage and these initial results are quite pleasing 😀
After the parts are touch dry I hung them above the convector heater in the workshop to speed up the drying process.
The paint is Halfords white primer and I will use two primer coats with a rub down with a medium abrasive pad (similar to a 'Scotch-Brite' pad) between each before applying two coats of Halfords 'Appliance White' gloss with a rub down with 1200 grit wet & dry between coats.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/24667
The spray booth. - Posted: 7th Dec 2016
After considering all the H&S aspects and conducting my own risk assessment (seriously !) and writing a method statement 😉 I am building myself a spray booth.
The base for the spray booth is a steel framed folding trestle table that I already had in the workshop and is of ideal dimensions for the job.
The framework for the booth is regular 25mm x 38mm softwood from my local DIY store.
No elaborate joints here at all, just a few screws and plastic corner blocks and a few bracing fillets to keep the frames square and rigid.
The idea is that I will be able to remove/discard the cardboard panels from the top and sides to de-construct it and pack it away until it's required again. The cardboard is just fixed to the frame with a heavy duty staple gun.
An MDF panel with a suitable sized hole was made to hold the fan unit in the 'roof' and the flexible ducting routed to the workshop (garage) door (wooden) and connected to an exhaust vent mounted through the door.
The fan unit is a brushless bathroom ventilator wired to a simple switch on the side of the frame, it can move more than sufficient air volume quite safely in the presence of propellants and solvents from the aerosols.
I also fitted a 1metre LED strip-light to the same circuit to illuminate the interior. The finishing touch is an old shower curtain with a weighted hem that I had lying about to form the 'fourth wall'. It's suspended so that there's a 50mm air gap at the bottom for the air flow path.
I bought a 3M 4521 Maintenance-Free Organic Vapour/Particulate Respirator for about £18 from Screwfix to wear whilst spraying. The mask filters are not replaceable so when I've finished all the painting it will be binned !
The mask is so exceptionally effective at filtering that I am able to stand at the booth and work INSIDE the booth with the curtain behind me to confine the vapours and dust and reduce the risk of dust etc. settling on the fresh paint. For those concerned for my health I can assure you that FOR ME this works perfectly safely and is very effective. So much so that there's no smell at all while spraying and I only get the slightest whiff of solvent smells in the workshop after removing the mask as all the nasty stuff is blasted out of the workshop from the enclosed booth.
I expect some controversial opinions on this but in practice it is actually far safer than spraying paint in a confined area without any protection and ventilation at all, which is possibly what a lot of chaps (including me) have done or continue to do !
Now I can get some painting done...

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by colinhubbard on the 8th Dec 2016
Like your setup, with one reservation, is your exhaust to the outside filtered or just blowing in the wind. As I didn't filter my spray exhaust and got in trouble with a couple of neighbors who got overspray on their cars. A simple solution was to hang a damp muslin over the vent. Hope this helps. Keep up the exceptional work. Thanks Colin.
Response by robbob on the 9th Dec 2016
Hi Colin. In my setup the workshop (garage) is at the end of the drive and far enough away from other buildings and cars not to cause any such problems.
Pidgeons and other varmints might not agree !
Rob.
Response by colinhubbard on the 11th Dec 2016
The varmints could always move if they don't like it. Happy spraying, good luck.

mdlbt.com/24657
The painting turntable. - Posted: 6th Dec 2016
I'm nearing the stage when I need to consider the painting process and as I intend to do all the painting in the workshop where I can control temperature and humidity I really don't want overspray and dust going everywhere so I am going to construct a ventilated and lit spray booth big enough to take the model.
But first I made a simple spraying turntable to avoid handling the smaller items while painting.
I bought a 'lazy susan' bearing from eBay and mounted it on a plywood base and then used an old circular chipboard side table top as the platform.
Quick and inexpensive to make but it should make spraying smaller parts a bit easier.
In the last picture is the fan unit that will go in the roof of the booth.
Next...... making the spray booth.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/24649
The lifting eyes & foot rails. - Posted: 5th Dec 2016
A couple of small features to add to the deck are the three lifting eyes on each side and the foot rails that run along the edge of the deck from bow to stern.
The eyes were made from some brass sheet and bent so that they eye is vertical above deck but the base is angled into the slots that I have routed into the deck. I used a very fine routing bit that I bought at a model show in my Dremel drill to cut the slots.
The foot rails are made from the 3/32 x 3/32 obechi strip supplied with the kit, I pre-drill holes for some pins that temporarily hold the rail in place while the epoxy glue sets. I felt that trying to pin these rails would be difficult and the glue will hold them just as well.
The foot rail ends were given a finishing detail with a file at each end for neatness.
The pin holes were filled and the rail rubbed down lightly and given a couple of coats of sanding sealer.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by boaty on the 6th Dec 2016
😊 I like the fine detail and the high standard of finish on the components.

Its got me thinking now about my 34 inch Crash Tender that I restored two and a half years ago from a wreck bought from an ad in the local rag.

Currently its in good useable condition but perhaps next year I feel I could improve it a lot more.

Boaty

mdlbt.com/24637
Fitting the wheelhouse roof panels - Posted: 4th Dec 2016
The three panels make up the wheelhouse roof and the outer two needed the heat gun treatment to curve them in two directions so a bit of patience is required here to get this right.
When they are correctly shaped the mating edges of all three need a little chamfering, they also need to overlap the cabin walls by 1/8th of an inch. I cut out a hole in the centre panel to give me access to the bracket that hold the searchlight rotation servo in place. Before fitting the roof panels I added a couple of small blocks either side of the cabin formers directly beneath where the mast feet will be to reinforce the areas so that I can bolt down the mast legs on threaded studs and also to enable it's removal for storage if required.
Once again I used a file and sanding block over the formers and cabin sides to profile them so that the panels sit flush on the framework. The outer panel on which the searchlight sits was also pierced to take the 2mm threaded stud will connects the servo to the searchlight base. I'll need to make and fit a circular wedge fillet on the roof to meet the searchlight base because of the curvature of the roof at that point.
The undersides of the panels got a couple of coats of sanding sealer and a brushed coat of a black satin water based paint, being careful not to coat the areas where the glue lines will be. The rest of the interior of the cabin also got another coat of black paint.
The centre panel was fitted first making sure that the hole was correctly aligned with the servo shaft position, when the glue had dried the two outer panels were glued and clamped.
I fitted the sliding hatch rails on a couple of bearers and made a frame around the access hole for the hatch to fit onto.
The other small hole at the front of the centre panel is for the navigation light wiring.
Thankfully that's the end of the superstructure construction which was unnecessarily difficult due to the less than helpful instructions and drawings and poorly fitting parts.
Some room for improvement here by the kit maker I think ❓ .....

Next episode coming to screen near you soon.... 😁

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/24617
Fitting the windscreen panels. - Posted: 3rd Dec 2016
I initially followed the instructions and used canopy glue to fix the centre Perspex screen in place but the practical reality is that the glazing is better fitted to the panels after construction and painting.
Fortunately the canopy glue can easily be removed from the Perspex without leaving a residue, so no harm done.
The three panels were chamfered at the meeting edges and dry fitted/removed a number of times after various shaping adjustments until I was perfectly happy with the fit.
My earlier 'geometric juggling' of the cabin parts has paid off because all of the windscreen panels now lay flat properly across the formers and at all the correct angles.
Once satisfied that the fit was as good as it gets I glued and clamped each piece one at a time, and after a bit of filling and rubbing down the end result was worth all the effort 😀

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by allenrod on the 3rd Dec 2016
Hi Robbob,
I'm so impressed with your method of building and the careful thought you are giving the work, this will be a masterpiece when its finished, keep it up. By the way what kind of black paint are you using inside the cabins?, thanks
Response by robbob on the 3rd Dec 2016
Hi allenrod.
Thanks for you kind praise 😄
The black paint is just a water based satin finish I happened to have in the workshop, it was applied by brush over the sanding sealer as the finish is not critical.
Robbob
Response by allenrod on the 4th Dec 2016
Thanks Robbob,
I'm looking forward to your next episode......
Its better than any television series.

mdlbt.com/24615
Forward cabin roof skins. - Posted: 3rd Dec 2016
Happily the fitting of these three pieces is quite straightforward.
The skins were heated with a hot air gun and gently curved to the correct profiles, then I ran a sanding block over the cabin sides and wheelhouse formers to contour them to the correct profiles so that the roof skins fitted well. The edges of the two outer skins was chamfered where they meet the edges of the centre section for neatness and to minimise filling. The skins overlap all sides of the cabin walls by about 1/8 of an inch and they were trimmed to allow this before fitting.
The skins were then glued in place with aliphatic, pinned and clamped and left to dry.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/24592
The searchlight, making it light up and turn. - Posted: 2nd Dec 2016
After a bit of head scratching I think I have a plan 😉
I bought a Turnigy mini servo, a servo tester and a battery pack from Hobbyking, and a 3w white LED and reflector from Maplins.
The LED is mounted on quite a large heat sink and needed trimming down to fit inside the searchlight body, I checked all the time for continuity and that the conductive tracks on the heat-sink would not short to the metal body, I drilled a hole in the underside of the body for the wiring and epoxied the LED in place.
I temporarily connected a dropper resistor and battery pack to the LED and ran it for a few minutes to test the heat gain which was negligible, clearly the metal I removed from the heat-sink is amply made up by the mass of the white metal body.
The servo was temporarily fixed in place with a couple of screws so that I could test the rotation with the servo tester (at this time I didn't have any radio gear) .
It works a treat ! 😀
The servo was then mounted within the WF3 windscreen former with the output spigot directly below the proposed searchlight position, a supporting structure and a retaining bar holds it in place as I don't intend to permanently fix it. I will cut an access hole in the cabin roof below the hatch to allow access to the bracket so that the servo can be replaced if required.
I'll make a lens and protective grid later and also re-make the searchlight cradle and base in brass as the white metal one is just too flimsy and would bend and break in no time.
Now I can get on with the rest of the cabin construction 😁

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


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