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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender
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mdlbt.com/23951
Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender Print Booklet
Author: robbob   Posts: 95   Photos: 577   Subscribers: 19   Views: 25142   Responses: 265   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

Showing page 7 of 10   |   Jump to page: 1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9   10  

mdlbt.com/24591
The wheelhouse, pain tempered by an inspired suggestion! - Posted: 2nd Dec 2016
The wheelhouse construction on first sight seems to be reasonably straightforward but in practice it was a real PITA as the instructions are somewhat lacking in detail and the drawing supplied isn't of much help either so I largely disregarded them and placed the cabin and windscreen formers so that the geometry was correct. This involved putting in extra supporting pieces and bevelling the formers so that the windscreen panels and roof skins would fit properly when I was ready to fit them.
Also, the instructions say to fit the glazing to the windscreen panels and fix them in place during this phase of the construction, something that I considered very impractical and unwise so I decided to find a better way to do this at a later stage 💭
Whilst working on this it was suggested to me by a family member that perhaps the searchlight could be engineered to be a working feature? I had always intended to build a high power LED into the searchlight controlled by a R/C switch, but could it be possible to make it rotate as well?
I decided to take time out to research a practical means to do this as it would be quite a nice feature and also a good excuse to upgrade my choice of R/C system from 4 channel to 6 channel for not much more outlay 😀

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 4th Dec 2016
Hi Bobdunn.
Like you I am a born again modeller.
I discovered aliphatic glue while researching building techniques and materials on this site prior to starting construction of my model.
It's a bit like PVA but it is waterproof and has other additives to increase the bond strength among other things.
My first crash tender was constructed with 'Cascamite' resin which was the most appropriate at the time as the PVA glues available then were not waterproof. See the start of my blog for the full story.
I have been using a combination of 30 minute epoxy and 'Titebond 2' throughout my build.
Robbob.
Response by Bobdunn on the 4th Dec 2016
Can anyone help , ! I want know what Aliphatic glue as I never heard of it. As mentioned in rob bobs article.
Response by figtree7nts on the 4th Dec 2016
Aliphatic resin glue is what we commonly know as 'yellow glue' or 'carpenter's glue'. It is similar to PVA (white glue), but has been modified to make it stronger and more moisture resistant. Titebond Original is one of the most common aliphatic glues sold in the US

mdlbt.com/24566
Epoxy coating the hull - Posted: 29th Nov 2016
With the rubbing strakes fitted the hull can now receive two more coats of epoxy resin.
The resin was mixed to the 30:100 ratio in sufficient quantity to coat the whole hull, and the 90 minute pot life meant that this could be done at a sensible pace. I found it best to apply a thin even coat and not to over-brush the resin, that way there were no runs and the brush did not drag, 'less is more' is always the case. The strakes absorb the resin quite well so they should be harder and more resistant to knocks.
The resin was left to cure and harden for a couple of days before a rub down with a 400 grit wet & dry abrasive on a sanding block.
The weave of the cloth is now fully covered and the resulting surface is remarkably smooth even at this stage.
A third coat of resin builds up the finish layer and when dried resulted in a very pleasing mirror finish and the glassfibre cloth is now completely invisible!
As satisfying as this shiny surface is it must be rubbed down to give a good surface for the primer paint to adhere to. I used a 1200 grit wet & dry paper with plenty of water to flatten and key the surface ready for when the painting process could be started.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by pmdevlin on the 29th Nov 2016
Hi Rob,

the salvage nets.... I used the plastic coated stuff from hardware shops that you stuff into the gaps on a roof to stop birds. The "squares" are pretty much the correct shape, then you waft a hairdryer over them once installed, being plastic, they drop (start to melt!) to a very realistic shape over the supports! and shrink a bit, also, pretty much the right colour so don't need painting.

Wish you could post up pics in a blog reply, then you would see mine

Paul
Response by robbob on the 29th Nov 2016
Hi Paul.
Ah yes, I know the stuff you mean, I recall using some when I had a loft conversion done. I will Google the product and see if I can find something suitable.
I'll also have a look at your build blog again to see if I can find any pictures of your rescue netting.
Thanks.
Rob.
Response by boaty on the 30th Nov 2016
Looks like an excellent job and you'll have a good base for the final finish.

I wish I had known about this technique two and a half years ago when I restored a 1962 34 inch Crash Tender which was advertised in the local paper.

The boat had been daubed in yellow primer with the cabin roof missing and I stripped it down to the bare wood. The only consolation was that it had never had an I.C installed and so the interior was clean.

The position of the holes in the motor mount appeared to indicate that the power unit had been one of the medium sized Taycol motors. 😊

Boaty.


mdlbt.com/24548
Chine strakes - Posted: 28th Nov 2016
The chine strakes are made from 3/16 x 3/16 obechi and also need a very thorough steaming to get them into the correct shape.
As with gunwhale strakes these also need to be bent in two different planes, the first being the curve of the bow and the second is the rise and fall in angles required to follow the line of the chine stringers.
Pre-drilling these strips prior to glueing with epoxy and pinning is very important as the wood is very thin and would very easily split if not done, remembering that the wood is already under stress because of the bending process 😰
Fortunately this also went well without any disasters, and after a bit of filling and rubbing down I'm finally able to apply the last two coats of resin to give the hull it's final surface 😀

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by cormorant on the 28th Nov 2016
Hi Rob
I am currently building a 1/24 scale Perkasa to which I have also fitted chine strakes.
Too late for your build I know, but I have just discovered 'flexible beech'. It is extremely flexible and retains its shape when bent to the profile required - even in two different planes.
No steaming required and I fixed it quite easily with cyano.
Obtainable from JoTika and worth bearing in mind for future builds?
Steve
Response by robbob on the 28th Nov 2016
Hi Vosper.
The skins were formed using a heat gun mostly but the strakes were steamed in the tube.
As I recall they must have been in the tube for about 15 to 20 minutes, they came out very wet but also very pliable. 😓
Response by robbob on the 29th Nov 2016
Hi Steve.
I've not heard about 'flexible beech' but it sounds like it's ideal if it is as malleable as you say.
Certainly worth bearing in mind, could be the very thing that Vosper could use to avoid the steaming process !
Robbob.

mdlbt.com/24547
Gunwhale strakes - Posted: 28th Nov 2016
Now that the hull has been skinned in fibreglass and given it's first rub down the next process is to fit the rubbing strakes
The gunwhale strakes are made from strips of 3/8 x 3/16 obechi and they need to be bent and formed to follow the curvature of the bow, so it's out with the wallpaper steamer and steaming tube again!
I steamed the strips very thoroughly to get them as flexible as possible because they need to be bent in two planes, the first is the curve of the bow and the second is the change of angle, in effect a 'twist' where the side skin angle changes.
I dry fitted the strakes and clamped them in place to conform to the hull shape and pre-drilled holes for the fixing pins. After the wood cooled and dried it was possible to remove the temporary clamps and pins and happily the strake kept it's shape so that the final epoxy glueing and pinning should not involve stressing the wood to much further degree.
The strakes were fixed with the upper edge slightly proud of the deck so that once planed down they will be flush with the deck.
A little bit of filler was needed to fill the gap between the lower edge of the strake and the hull and in the pin holes left after the pins were punched into the strakes.
I repeated the process for the other side and felt quite pleased and relieved that it went so well, and without anything snapping 😁
Another piece is fitted on the transom and this only has a gentle curve and is a breeze to fit compared to the other parts !
Now onto the Chine rubbing strakes.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/24546
Centre cabin door and frame - Posted: 28th Nov 2016
As previously mentioned I decided to add a door and frame detail below the centre cabin roof hatch.
I made the door from a bit of 1.5mm scrap ply and 'engraved' the panelling grooves on it's face, I also added a frame leaving narrow gaps to form the hinge lines. Once in place I will add a couple of bits of wire to simulate the butt hinges, some extra door detail and some door furniture.
UPDATE: I have added the door detail, I just need to make a knob or handle to finish it off, I have a fuzzy 'photo showing the door but it isn't clear what type it is.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/24505
Engine room roof - part 2 - Posted: 26th Nov 2016
The rescue net rails are very fiddly to do as each support needs to be drilled accurately so that the rail passes through it nice and straight.
I used scrap ply for these although using some obechi strip may have been easier, for some reason I'm always drawn to doing things the difficult way to get the best results, but that's just in my nature. The blocks were cut from a strip of scrap ply of the correct thickness to all the same height and drilled through. After a quick clean-up with some abrasive paper they were then were glued to the roof skin with epoxy at carefully measured spacings according to the plan, the dowel rod was passed through each as it progressed to be sure that the alignment was correct.
Once the epoxy had set the blocks were sanded to all the same height...... then it's onto the other side and repeat the process.
I needed a tiny bit of filler here and there because the drilling process tends to split the ply face out a little bit despite very careful drilling. That's why obechi strip might have been the better choice.
I will fit the dowel rails in place once it's all fully assembled, rubbed down and sealed.
I'm not too sure if I will attempt to make the rescue nets, finding something ready-made may be difficult but not impossible and I'm certainly not going to take up crochet work at my age !
Anyone fancy making them up for me for a small fee?

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by allenrod on the 26th Nov 2016
You are a real busy bee, I'm well impressed, its better than watching the telly, wont be long before you are marking the water line, keep going........... 👍 👍 👍
Response by bluestreak505 on the 26th Nov 2016
I used the netting that some fruit is wrapped in. Or electicated bandage opened out and sprayed. This what I used on my other crash tender and looks realistic.
Response by BOATSHED on the 26th Nov 2016
I picked up an old landing net on a boot fair, it was a really old type that was the sort where holes are held together with knots and not made of nylon but look like rope. They are now illegal to use when fishing.

mdlbt.com/24504
Engine room roof - part 1 - Posted: 26th Nov 2016
I made the engine room roof covers in the same manner as the centre cabin roof but this one is a bit more complex because of the raised roof panels, escape hatches and rescue net rails
Spacers are used between the roof skin and the raised roof skins and it's here that I have made a small error in that I should have trimmed the spacer a little so that when the raised roof panels are fitted a lip is formed. The pre-cut spacers are actually supplied cut slightly too large and need to be trimmed to form this detail. It's only a minor thing and I know it will bug me but to rectify it would mean re-constructing the roof so I'll just put it down to experience 😭
Before I fitted the raised roof skins I added some additional spacers in the areas where the white metal deck fitting would be installed as I intend to bolt these through the skins rather than just rely on glue which won't really be sufficient to hold them securely.
The two hatches also have spacers that are correctly sized so that a lip is formed, at least I got that bit right!
I cut shallow groove in the hatches to simulate the hinge line but I'll fit the hinges later in the painting process.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/24495
Centre cabin roof - Posted: 25th Nov 2016
The centre cabin roof is designed to be removable and to get a good fit the frame is initially constructed in place with some card packing inserted and clamped between the frame, the cabin sides and cabin formers.
I used two layers of 'cornflake box' thickness card for this.
This is to ensure that when sanding sealer and paint has been applied to the surfaces there is a bit of clearance so that the roof can be easily removed, ideally this should be a friction fit but I can use a couple of small magnets to hold it in place if it ends up a bit too loose.
Once the basic frame was made it was removed to the bench and the centre roof former and fillets were fitted and glued.
I then glued and pinned the roof to the frame with about a 1/8th overlap of the cabin sides and then the frame and skin clamped together while the glue set.
Once the clamps were off the roof was tried for fit and although loose at this stage it should be a snug fit when it's all painted
The hatch was made from the pre-cut piece and some 1.5mm ply scrap for the frame, I assembled this on my cutting mat with some brass pins to hold it all together.
I also made some runners for the hatch from scrap ply and obechi strip and glued these to the roof skin, a couple of small slots in the finished hatch locate it on the runners.
I won't fix this hatch in place until it's all painted.
The pins were then punched in just below the roof skin surface and a little filler used to level it and after a light sanding it's ready for sanding sealer. I think I will make a frame and door to fit to the cabin former to add a little more detail.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by allenrod on the 26th Nov 2016
Brilliant, great stuff keep it coming, I'm loving it ! 😀 😀 😀 😀

mdlbt.com/24454
Power supply (temporary) for the charger. - Posted: 21st Nov 2016
The power supply that I want to go with the Turnigy charger is out of stock at Hobbyking so as a temporary measure I have decided to convert an old PC power supply for the purpose.
I'm not going into any detail on how this is achieved because unless you have the required skills and knowledge it is best not to mess with power supplies. 💀
A PC power supply actually has a number of different voltage outputs but I'll just be utilising the 12v output.
Two insulated sockets are fitted to the side of the power supply case for the output, and a switch and a couple of led's and current limiting resistors are fitted to the back panel, the existing rocker switch is the main on/off switch and the small toggle switch 'starts' the power supply, the LED's just indicate power on and 12v output present.
For now this unit will be sufficient for my purposes until the unit I want is back in stock at Hobbyking, in the meantime I am now able to charge the NiMH battery packs that have arrived and test the boats electrical system.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by ffkjr on the 23rd Nov 2016
Just wanted to thank you for posting all the valuable information on your build. I'm just getting back into the hobby after too many years away and appreciate the construction details that you include. It certainly appears that suppliers and craftsman in the UK are much more plentiful and involved in the hobby than I have found here in the US to date. I just started a Blue Jacket lobster boat to get my feet wet again but have my eye on a Speedline or Model Slipway Tamar Class Life Boat. Looking forward to more posts!
Frank
Response by robbob on the 23rd Nov 2016
Hi Frank.
Like you, I'm just getting back into it after long absence and I am having great fun and enjoying the build immensely 😁
Plenty more posting to come.
Robbob

mdlbt.com/24448
Electrics, switching & wiring loom - Posted: 21st Nov 2016
Because the fibreglassing process takes a while, there's time to consider other things that need to be done such as the wheelhouse, cabin roofs and hatches, and the electrics.
The electrics are very straightforward and my initial drawings are transformed into a panel that also contains the master power switch, fuse holder and a charging socket.
All the wiring is in 12awg silicone insulated wire and all connections are soldered and insulated with heat shrink.
Initially I used large Futaba connectors but having assembled and tested the loom I'm not very confident of the current handling of these so I replaced them all with XT60 connector that are rated at 65A.
I'll leave the Futaba charging connector in the switch panel as this doesn't need to be uprated.
The master switch is a high current DPDT, centre off type that in one position connect the battery supply to the ESC and motor via the fuse and in the other position to the charging socket.
Although the ESC has a BEC I will supply the receiver and lighting circuits from separate battery supplies, mustn't forget to remove the power wire from the ESC servo connector!
I have incorporated an in-line ammeter in the loom that should monitor and log peak amps and volts, it's only rated at 30A and I'm not sure that it's up to the job, if not I know that 'Component-shop' do something similar that will meter up to 150A for about £18 or so.
I have chosen a Turnigy charger from Hobbyking that will accommodate the 16 cell NiMh (19.2v) series battery system so that the charging can be done with the batteries in situ, the charger has a 12v DC input so this can done at the lakeside from a car battery if required, but it has no AC input. It will also handle LiPO batteries if I decide to switch chemistry !.
That means that I'll need a meaty DC power supply to run the charger on the bench and I have just the thing for the job.....

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by allenrod on the 22nd Nov 2016
Yes I agree the more detail the more it will be appreciated.
Response by robbob on the 25th Nov 2016
Hi javro.
I'll post a drawing of the wiring diagram in a later post but it's actually just a very simple changeover switch arrangement.
Robbob.
Response by jarvo on the 26th Nov 2016
Hi Robbob, wiring and me are a world apart, i can make it neat and tidy, but why it works leaves me hoping it will do just that. (work)

Mark

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