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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender
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mdlbt.com/23951
Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender Print Booklet
Author: robbob   Posts: 94   Photos: 568   Subscribers: 19   Views: 21166   Responses: 251   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

Showing page 9 of 10   |   Jump to page: 1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9   10  

mdlbt.com/24272
Boat stand - Posted: 10th Nov 2016
As I need to work on the deck and superstructure now I'm going to need something to support the hull securely so it's time to build a stand.
To get the profile of the hull I used a couple of wire coat hangers, the sort you get from the dry cleaners, and carefully bent and formed them to the hull shape at bulkhead B2 and B5, they bend and keep their shape very well and it's easy to transfer the shapes to the 18mm ply end boards. I marked around the outside of the wire to give a clearance gap to allow for the strakes that will be fitted later and some neoprene foam pads to cushion the hull.
The waste wood out with a coping saw and the cut edges filed and sanded smooth.
Both end boards were then clamped together and drilled with a suitable wood bit to take the four large diameter dowels which were glued and pinned, all the while ensuring that the entire assembly was as square and true as possible.
The end result is a very rigid and stable stand that will protect the hull, keel and rudder etc.
I won't bother painting and finishing this properly until the construction work is finished.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by justintime2001 on the 10th Nov 2016
What a cracking idea. I won't be copying of course! ☺️
Response by don6398 on the 11th Nov 2016
Great idea I will be reviewing your Pictures. Well done

mdlbt.com/24248
Trimming the skins and shaping the keel. - Posted: 7th Nov 2016
The skins have now had plenty of time to set and now need trimming top bottom & stern, the skin is first trimmed with a saw along the chine and then planed flush. Similarly the top of the skin is trimmed and planed flush with the deck all the way round including the transom. I can now shape the keel to the hull profile, fill the nail holes and a tiny bit of filler on the bow and rub it all down to get quite a nice 'pointy'end.
The filler is a two part wood filler from Screwfix that is not as 'hard' as Isopon P38 and can be sanded a lot more easily without removing too much of the surrounding area, it's also wood colour !
I'm very pleased with the bow section, particularly as I remember making a bit of a hash of it on my first boat, but then I was only 15 years old.
I need to think about the motor and mount so that I can set the prop shaft in the keel but before that I need to make a supporting cradle for the hull as it's getting a bit big for the bench now.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by cenbeth on the 9th Nov 2016
Hi Boatshed

I'm not Rob (!) but have you tried Ronseal 2-pack wood filler. The reviews look good but you do need to ensure not to use too much catalyst.

Edward
Response by robbob on the 9th Nov 2016
Hi BOATSHED.
Rob here....Edward is quite correct, the Screwfix product number is 51811 and it's on special offer right now.
Use the hardener sparingly, this stuff goes off very rapidly !
Even so it's much better stuff for what we do than Isopon car body filler.
Sorry for the late reply, a problem with this site has prevented me and others from logging in but clearly it's all working now (thanks Stephen).
Rob.
Response by BOATSHED on the 9th Nov 2016
Hi both Rob And Ed,
Thanks for your reply. I will be getting some of that by the weekend. The Perkasa hull I bought has had the front was done with balsa blocks and not skinned and has not been done very well. I would have done it with ply right over.
I was going to use P38. But I will no do it your way.
regards
Tom.

mdlbt.com/24227
Fitting the side skins. - Posted: 6th Nov 2016
The temporary pins holding the bottom skins on the bow chine former are removed and the bottom skin is very carefully cut back to reveal the upper half of the chine former back to bulkhead B1 as the side skin needs to butt against the bottom skin at this point, the remainder of the side skin overlaps the bottom skin all the way back to the transom.
The side skin is then temporarily clamped in position and carefully measured and marked for trimming to abut the bottom skin on the chine former.
I can't afford to make a mess of this so I measure three times and cut once !.
Once I'm happy with the fit the skin is steamed and formed to the correct curvature. The fixing process is the same as with the bottom skins with pins into the bulkheads and the chine former but clamping only to the gunwhale stringers, no pins were used to fix to the chine stringers, the aliphatic glue provides a very strong bond and the joint will later be strengthened when the chine rubbing strakes are fitted.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 7th Nov 2016
Hi don6398
I actually found the the process very easy and not at all messy and the results certainly worth the effort.
Rob.
Response by pmdevlin on the 7th Nov 2016
H Rob,

really nice woodwork skills, I am unable to do that! I just rescue other peoples builds and make them pretty!

If I may, I have some concerns about your drivetrain, something I have spent a lot of time testing etc. That motor, with nimhs just isn't going to deliver the power needed to push this heavy old girl along, please consider lipo's, or even twin screw, you still have time to do this, its very easy, I did it!
As you have seen on the youtube videos, these boats where fast, they handle real great in a straight line, its cornering that things get difficult. One real good tip, make sure the spray rails are square profile. HS93 told me this, and it works a treat to aid turning at speeds, this hull wants to roll quite a lot!
Regarding the mysterious rear light, I saw a picture years ago, it was blue, we thing it had something to do with pre trial river requirements, I cannot find that info anywhere, so left it off mine.

Paul
Response by robbob on the 7th Nov 2016
Hi Paul.
Thanks for your encouraging comments.
The motor is a Turnigy SK3-4250-500kv brushless outrunner, batteries are 2 x 9.6v NiMh 5000mA, a combination recommended for this boat by VMW.
You are not the only one to express a concern on it's potential performance but I'll go with what I have and if indeed it does under perform I can easily up-rate the motor and battery combination. The ESC I have is more that capable apparently.
I'm too far down the road to reconfigure to a two motor setup and really I'm building this as a test of my re-awakened model making skills and for the satisfaction of it all rather than terrifying the pond life and myself to boot, assuming I can find a 'pond' that is.
The spray rails are indeed a nice square profile as you suggest and will hopefully help with the cornering.
I'm trying to find out more about the mysterious stern navigation light that appears in a couple 'photos I have seen, I might like to incorporate this in my boat if it's a significant detail...anyone know?
This is the sort of constructive criticism that I was hoping to get from other members to my blog so please do chip in if I'm getting it wrong, albeit too late for me but for others building similar boats.
By the way, my comments about the fire boat content of the plans and docs section is not intended to offend anyone, but I can't understand why 'copyright issues' means that 'photos and drawings have to be deliberately blurred to render them next to useless, It's like giving someone a book to read and then poking then in the eyes!
Rob

mdlbt.com/24221
Fitting the bottom skins. - Posted: 6th Nov 2016
The skinning of the hull is probably the hardest part of the assembly as it involves careful trimming and shaping to ensure a good fit without resorting to fillers for making good. The skins can be bent quite successfully with the application of steam or with a heat gun. I used a combination of the two with the steaming initially relaxing the wood allowing it to be bent to the correct curvatures and the heat gun (electric paint stripper) to 'set' the shape and dry the skins. The bottom skins are fitted first and the edge that meets the keel is trimmed to get a good fit and the edge given a slight chamfer to eliminate a gap where it meets the keel.
I marked the keel with pencil marks at the centre of each bulkhead and marked the skins with a line meeting the chine stringer so that the brass pins in pre drilled holes would drive in easily and not split the bulkhead formers.
Working from bow to stern the skin is pinned to the false rebates on the keel and the bulkhead formers with the application of aliphatic glue, the edge that meets the chine stringers is just clamped into place along its entire length with as many clamps I had to hand.
I used pins temporarily to hold the skin firmly where it lays on the bow chine former and these were removed when the glue set. When the glue has thoroughly set the skins are roughly trimmed where they meet the chine stringers and finished with a plane being careful not to take any material away from the stringer and keeping a good straight edge with no hollows or bumps.
Having repeated the process for the other bottom skin it's the side skins next and they are a bit trickier to do !

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by vosper on the 6th Nov 2016
Good job Rob, by showing the process of building your boat you are a great help to people like me. 👍
Response by robbob on the 6th Nov 2016
Hi Vosper.
Thanks for your encouragement, and no, I'm not working a night shift on this, it's just that my literary abilities are better in the evenings.
Rob.

mdlbt.com/24210
Propshaft - Posted: 4th Nov 2016
The recommended propshaft is 13" long with an 8mm outer tube and 5mm inner shaft. I purchased this from 'Modelboatbits' along with a nice little oiler clamp system, and a universal coupling with inserts to suit the threaded end of the propshaft and the 5mm plain shaft of the brushless motor.
The recommended prop is a nylon two blade X50, again from Modelboatbits.
The keel needs to be bored out to receive the propshaft and fortunately I have a 8mm wood bit that is long enough to go through the keel and through bulkhead B4 in one pass. The slot cut in the keel at an earlier stage helps guide the drill bit but still this needs to be done very carefully to maintain correct alignment and angle.
I won't glue the propshaft into position yet, this will be done when the side skins are on and the motor mount and motor can be dry fitted and aligned properly.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by vosper on the 5th Nov 2016
Are you on the night shift ? Carry on the good work, great job. 👍

mdlbt.com/24206
Cabin formers - Posted: 4th Nov 2016
The formers are positioned as per the drawings, the cabin sides marked with pencil line and pilot hole are drilled with a pin drill through the sides and into the edges of the formers. When the cabin formers are glued and positioned 15mm brass pins are easily pushed through the pilot holes into the edges of the formers with a 'pin push', no need for a hammer thus avoiding the possibility of damage to the still fragile assembly.
The forward cabin sides need to be bent inwards at CF2 (wheelhouse) to meet the former and this is aided by the shallow cuts that I put in the cabin sides previously.
As always everything is checked for square and clamps applied when necessary. The tow hook deck support is fitted to cabin former 5 and for good measure I also fitted a central supporting brace into which the towing hook will be fixed.
Lastly the transom former CF6 is fitted and a stringer fitted to it to support the transom deck.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/24122
Chine stringers. - Posted: 30th Oct 2016
The chine stringers are steamed and formed in the same manner as the gunwhale stringer, they are also laminated with the first set into a notch in the chine former. The bulkhead B1 needs to be bevelled so that the stringer lies flat in the notch. The stringers were drilled with a pin drill to prevent any splitting and epoxied and pinned to the chine former and bulkheads from fore to aft. The second lamination is done in the same way but this is glued and clamped with very few pins so that the stringer can be shaped to the bulkhead profile with no pins in the way, any pins used were punched into the lamination.
Next I fitted the deck stringers that go between the bulkheads and fixed to the cabin sides, these are to support the decks, these are just glued and clamped.
All the stringers and keel formers were then planed and sanded to the profile of the bulkheads in preparation for the fitting of the hull skins.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by vosper on the 31st Oct 2016
Thats right Rob. I wish that I had tried to steam the skins on my boat before trying to fit them but due to the tight curve I ended up cutting the skins on the bow sections into three parts and reinforcing both inside and out of the hull with fibreglass. My wife is already asking what I want for Christmas, I quite fancy the Aerokits Sea Commander. Guess I`m hooked now.
Response by justintime2001 on the 1st Nov 2016
I have just ordered this kit. This blog is going to be so helpful to me as a newbie, thanks.
Response by robbob on the 2nd Nov 2016
Hi justintime2001
I am pleased that my blog will be of help to you, I have found some invaluable advice and tips on this site and have been inspired to incorporate a high level of detail in my model to emulate the outstanding examples that I have seen here.
It's a shame that the 'plans and docs' page for Fire Boats is hampered by very limited and poor content which other members seem to have access to by other means, something to do with copyright I understand.
I hope that you enjoy the construction of you boat as much as I have....so far.
Robbob.

mdlbt.com/24102
Gunwhale stringers. - Posted: 29th Oct 2016
The cabin sides are now glued to the assembly and checked for square and left to dry while I dig out the wallpaper steamer in preparation for steaming the gunwhale stringers. I have a length of aluminium tubing that is ideal for a steaming tube, one end can be sealed using some duct tape and the length of the tube is sufficient to take the strakes over distance that they need to be formed.
The outlet tube of the steamer is long enough to reach outside to prevent condensation inside the workshop and stop my glasses from steaming up too !
About 15 minutes is sufficient to soften the wood and make it very pliable and when ready they are placed in the bench vice and bent to a curvature greater than required so that when they are cold they relax to approximately the right amount. The stringers are actually laminated from two pieces and the inner pieces are fitted first on each side so that the assembly doesn't twist, these are epoxied and pinned into position and lots of clamps used to hold it all together. At all stages the assembly is checked for squareness.
The process is repeated for the outer lamination of the gunwhale stringers, and so far I haven't managed to snap anything or scald myself !


Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by BOATSHED on the 31st Oct 2016
Hi just seen your reply, I clicked on your name robbob and it came up you are in London, I don't know where about's
in London you are but if there is a great pond on Clapham Common, its called Clapham Common Long Pond. Its a good pond I used to go there quite a lot, will proably start again come next spring. Hope this helps.
Response by robbob on the 31st Oct 2016
Hi Boatshed.
I'm actually in north west London, Mill Hill/Hendon and there are no local boating lakes remaining.
The nearest may well be St.Albans or Stevenage, also there are no model clubs or societies that I am aware of in my area which is a shame as a club membership and the resulting breadth of knowledge and experience would be very welcome.
Also, Clapham is 'sarf' london and there be demons!
No disrespect to south London members. 😀
Robbob
Response by BOATSHED on the 1st Nov 2016
I live in Darenth on the edge of Dartford, its a bit of a trip but its a great pond. I could go out to Maidstone as well, that's a good pond and if you want to use ic then its a Saturday job for those. St Albans or Stevenage is a fair old run from you.

mdlbt.com/24091
Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender - Posted: 28th Oct 2016
Happy that keel and bulkheads fit square and true so they can now all be glued and pinned using the 30 minute epoxy.
I have decided to chamfer the keel parts particularly at the bow, parts K2, K3 and the chine formers, to the approximate angles where required before assembly as it's easier to do at this stage while they are off the keel and they can be lightly trimmed and shaped to their final angles later. Once all the false rebates are fitted to the keel it is slotted into the jig and the bulkheads glued and assembled on the keel, the metal brackets ensure that it's all kept true and square. Brass pins in pre drilled holes and lots of clamps hold the parts firmly while the epoxy sets.
The Cabin sides are dry fitted to lock everything in place.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/24037
Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender - Posted: 23rd Oct 2016
Glue, pins and sanding sealer at the ready.
I have put the 'vee' cuts in the cabin sides to allow for the sharp bends and also where the wheelhouse window needs to bend to meet the roof, the rear cockpit sides have also been glued to the rear of the cabin sides.
The propshaft slot has been cut, the false keels will also be pinned to the main keel with 15mm brass panel pins.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


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