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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender
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mdlbt.com/23951
Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender Print Booklet
Author: robbob   Posts: 67   Photos: 313   Subscribers: 15   Views: 12157   Responses: 148   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

Showing page 1 of 7   |   Jump to page: 1   2   3   4   5   6   7  

mdlbt.com/27028
The flagstaff. - Posted: 26th Mar 2017
While waiting for paint and lacquer to dry I thought I'd try making a flagstaff to go at the stern to take an RAF ensign that I'd like to fit.
I used a short length of 5mm brass tube set into a circular flange that I shaped from some brass sheet.
The hole in the flange was filed out to take the 5mm tube at an angle and was soft soldered into place, a 2mm nut was then press fitted into the base of the tube and secured with a drop of superglue. The pole we made from some 2mm brass rod tapped with a 2mm thread on one end. A short length of 4mm rod was bored out with a 2mm hole and was soft soldered close to the end to fit snugly into the 5mm base tube to act as a spacer, and another short piece of brass hand turned to make a knob at the upper end.
During initial construction I had set a wood block below the deck at this point to provide a support for a flagstaff (always thinking ahead 😉) and this was drilled out at an angle for the 5mm base which was epoxied in place ensuring that base was seated correctly and the flagstaff was vertically aligned.
The length of the flagstaff is about 11cm above the deck and is removable for transportation.
It turned out really well and I will keep the brass finish but give it a coat of clear lacquer to prevent it tarnishing.
I will order the two flags (flagstaff and mast) from Mike Alsop flags & ensigns as soon as I have worked out the correct sizes for 1:12 scale.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/27009
Painting the deck & superstructure. - Posted: 25th Mar 2017
Although the colour of the grey primer and that of the textured finish look quite good together I am committed to use the custom colour paint that I had mixed for the deck finish.
The masking process took a while to do thoroughly as I didn’t want any overspray problems at this late stage but once I was satisfied I applied the first light coat of the ‘BS631 RAF Light Grey’ finishing coat.
After a 20 minutes or so the second light coat was applied and then left overnight to harden, two coats on the deck is sufficient as I don’t want to fill the texture finish and ruin the effect.
The deck was then masked to leave the cabin sides and superstructure exposed so that I could put a third and fourth coat of the colour on those areas.
The resulting gloss finish looks quite good and will be a good contrast to the textured decks that will be finished in matt lacquer.
The masking on the decks was then removed and the cabins and superstructure masked up to just expose the decks to receive two light coats of the Halfords matt lacquer.
Everything was left for a few days to harden before all the masking was removed to reveal the final result of the painting process.
The overall result is very pleasing and was well worth all the time and materials used to achieve it.
The custom colour has a slightly 'greenish' hue in contrast to the grey primer that I have been looking at up until now and took a while to get accustomed to but I can say that now really like the colour scheme and that it is reasonably true to the prototype 😁

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by pmdevlin on the 26th Mar 2017
Hey Rob, I'm glad you mentioned the greenish hue, I have the same, and have always pondered over if it was correct. When I painted my 3 footer, in the BS 631 It had the green look, so when I did the 4 footer I used a different paint supplier, and it was the same. I wonder if over time the definition of the colour has changed? Coming along nice, its very time consuming isn't it!

As you have 94, and I have 93, same boats but subtle differences as they were in real life, it would be very nice to get them together some day👍
Response by robbob on the 26th Mar 2017
Hi Paul.
It looks like our paint colours are very similar so the BS colour mix is consistent which is good to know. My 94 is coming along slowly as I have been taking a lot of time getting the paint finishes right and dried and hardened but that has also meant that I could spend time between paint coats to do some detail work as you will see soon.
Side by side yours would win the beauty contest and undoubtedly a race too 😎

mdlbt.com/26853
Lacquering the hull. - Posted: 17th Mar 2017
Now that the self-adhesive vinyl lettering and hull markings are now applied and correctly positioned…😉 I can now spray the lacquer finish on the hull.
The gloss black areas will have a number of coats of Halfords clear gloss lacquer and the red ‘anti-fouling’ areas finished in Halfords clear satin lacquer.
I started with the gloss lacquer first, so the all the deck area and the red ‘anti-fouling’ areas were masked.
As I wanted the white waterline to be sealed with the gloss finish I masked below the line.
After a thorough wipe over with some panel wipe the first coat of gloss was sprayed followed by a further two coats at 30 minute intervals.
Fortunately it all went on without any runs or blemishes so I left it for a week to thoroughly harden after removing the masking.
The black area was then masked from the bottom of the waterline, the area cleaned with panel wipe and sprayed with three coats of Halfords clear satin lacquer.
With all the masking removed the boat was them put aside and left for a week for everything to dry thoroughly and then I polished the black area with some ‘T-cut’ polish to remove any surface blemishes and bring it to a full shine.
All the hull marking and lettering are now firmly fixed and sealed and I’m very pleased with the final results.
The next job will be to spray the deck and superstructure with the BS631 RAF Light Grey and then the majority of the paint process will be complete 😁

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/26765
The deck anti-slip finish. - Posted: 15th Mar 2017
The original Vosper drawings state that the deck was finished in a special anti-slip finish called ‘Cerrux’ and according to some well-respected contributors to this site the best way to achieve this finish is to apply a coat of a textured paint on the areas required and then overspray with the desired finish colour.
Others have used a Rustoleum product but that proved difficult to obtain but I found a product from Halfords that looked promising.
As always I did a test piece using this to see what the results would be like and after the finish colour was applied the effect looked very consistent in texture.
At model shows I had previously seen some lifeboat decks that had been ‘texture finished’ and noted that non-textured areas had been carefully masked off. This seems like a great idea and would serve to emphasise the textured effect and also to distinguish it from a very bad spray job!
I applied a low tack masking tape to the deck areas and features where I wanted a smooth finish and very carefully trimmed the tape to leave a narrow border, I also masked the positions of the metal deck fittings.
Everything else was masked off and the textured spray applied in two very light coats and left to dry.
When the masking was removed it revealed a very neat defined border around the foot rails, cabin sides and deck fittings.
The deck and cabin sides will be over-sprayed with a couple of light coats of the ‘BS631 RAF Light Grey’ that I have had custom mixed and will be, hopefully, accurate to the prototype. 😁

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 16th Mar 2017
Hi Canabus.
That does look like a pretty good example you have picked up there👍
As Paul says it's good to put your own spin on the refurbishment, yours appears to be 180 degrees judging by your 'photos 😜.
I made the opening wheelhouse hatch to allow me to get to the servo that turns my searchlight but I soon realised that I would need much better access to fit the wheelhouse glazing, portholes and all of the metal fittings that are on threaded studs, and of course all of the servo and lighting wiring.
I have also got a great deal of inspiration and ideas from this site, for instance I also took a leaf out of Paul's book and cut away some of the wheelhouse bulkhead and cabin former to give me room to get a hand inside the space.
It looks like you intend to do the same judging by the pencil marks on the cabin former in your last picture.
I can now also, at a later date, put some detail inside the wheelhouse such as steering wheel, instruments and controls fairly easily which would have been impossible before.
Good luck with the re-furb.
Rob.
Response by pmdevlin on the 16th Mar 2017
do the wheelhouse rob,👍 only because I have not seen any others with a scale finish. I was going to do the full wheelhouse, even had a figure for it, but decided the dash was enough!
Response by canabus on the 17th Mar 2017
Hi Robbob
A serious cut of frame 2 and CF2 would be required.
I cut out a section of frame 2, but, not CF2 at this point as I had no wheel house pics.
I have download yours, thank you.
Sorry about the pics, but, I thought as I live in Tasmania they would be the right way up for you living in Britain.(HA. HA!!).
The later kits did not have the full plan with them, but, the original builder still had the plans and frame outlines which he traced out before starting the boat.
I borrowed the plans, etc. and have a paper and PDF copy.
I have the roof held down by double 10mm magnets, also the roof hatch is a working one.
Canabus

mdlbt.com/26255
Wheelhouse roof detail....and a paint problem ! - Posted: 25th Feb 2017
Because of the curvature of the wheelhouse roof the searchlight, mast, aerial and other fittings need some shaped wedges to sit on so that they sit vertically, this is particularly important for the searchlight as it is designed to rotate.
I cut and shaped some plasticard for these and when I was happy with the angles I superglued them in place on the roof and used a small amount of filler to blend them into the roof profile.
Similar spacers were made for the anchor where it sits on the forward cabin roof as well.
After masking off the surrounding areas I sprayed a coat of Halfords white primer on the roofs and immediately noticed that the paint ‘crazed’ very badly for some unknown reason.
I had used panel wipe to clean the roof before painting and was spraying over previous coats of the same primer so this was really disappointing to see 😭
I had to leave the paint to harden for a couple of days and set about stripping it back to the base coats as much as possible and then re-masked and sprayed again….only for the same thing to happen again 😡
This was despite pre-warming the can and shaking it thoroughly for the prescribed two minutes.
To cut a long story short I discovered that the new can of white primer that I had recently purchased was faulty and it was spraying considerably more solvent/carrier than pigment and this heavy overload of solvent was the cause of the problem.
Halfords replaced the paint without argument but I had to wait another couple of days before I could remove the paint and start over again for the third time.
Happily the replacement paint was OK, the re-spray was successful and the final gloss coat is to a reasonable finish but the whole process set me back a couple of weekends and was a very frustrating experience 😞
An isolated case I’m sure but after previously stating that Halfords paint was OK, I now reserve my judgement and remain cautious with their paint, and I now do more test sprays just in case…..

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 25th Feb 2017
Hi Javro.
I tend to use light coats when painting but rattle cans dispense a volume of paint quite rapidly unlike an airbrush that is far more controllable.
The paint system on the roofs is three coats of sanding sealer, one coat of grey primer, one initial coat of white primer and a further one over the additional details, and then two coats of gloss.
At all stages the coats are flatted with wet & dry and there's usually at least a couple of days between coats and any solvent completely flashed off.
The Halfords white primer was definitely the cause as it was dispensing more solvent than pigment and that, I believe, is what caused the underlying layers to split.
Perhaps I'll look to getting a decent airbrush before I tackle another project.
All part of the learning curve as they say !
Response by jarvo on the 25th Feb 2017
HI Rob, yes an airbrush is the way to go, I have 2, a normal airbrush and a mini spray gun for large areas, get my paint made up at an auto paint shop in Stockport, take the colour you want and the match and mix, either ready to spray or plain acrylic paint.

P.S. Get a compressor with a tank, no spluttering and a constant flow of air
Response by pmdevlin on the 25th Feb 2017
I gave up on Halfrauds a while ago, the cans always seem to give out way too much paint volume, I suppose they are actually designed for cars!

mdlbt.com/26114
The Hull Markings - Posted: 19th Feb 2017
The paint on the hull has sufficiently hardened and needs a couple of coats of clear lacquer to protect it but before that happens I need to apply the hull markings.
The waterslide decal set that was supplied with my kit was probably at least 5 years old when I bought the kit on eBay and they had deteriorated so badly that when I put the large ‘FIRE’ lettering panel in some warm water it fragmented and clearly was not usable.
I called Mike Cummings at vintage Model works and explained my dilemma and he very generously agreed to supply me with a replacement set, and in addition a set of the recently available printed vinyl letters and markings that they now produce.
I decided to use the vinyl set as a quick test piece with the waterslide set revealed that the white ink is not solid and therefore not completely opaque. Furthermore I could not eliminate the ‘silvering’ effect that happens on waterslide decals despite using various lotions and potions such as Humbrol Decalfix and Microsol/Microset solutions. A test piece with the vinyl lettering sheet was far more successful and when over-lacquered on the test piece the results were very acceptable.
Starting with the large FIRE lettering I cut a paper template the same size as the complete word and fixed this with low tack masking tape on the hull, this paper was then outlined in more masking tape to form a window and the vertical spacing of the letters transferred to this to keep the correct spacing.
Vertical strips of tape were then used as positioning guides for the letters which were individually cut and placed so that I could eliminate all but the solid white letters and give them a hard edge.
Feeling very pleased with myself I removed the masking tape guides and realised to my horror that I had set the baseline of the letters far too close to the waterline and the vertical proportions were completely wrong ….disaster 😱
Feeling ashamed that I could make such a basic error I abandoned the lettering and called Mike at VMW and described my foolish error, no problem he said, I’ll send you another vinyl sheet and also some additional drawing that were missing from my kit that would help with detail finishing.
My second attempt with the new vinyl sheet employed the same process but I was careful to measure, mark and check the positions (several times!) before starting.
The roundel and numerals positions at the bow and the stern were carefully measured and marked using the supplied drawings and masking tape ‘guides’ used to fix their positions before application.
Lastly the roman numerals that span the waterline at the bow and stern were marked, cut and individually applied.
I also took the opportunity to fix in place a couple of modified 6mm portholes to replicate the aft cockpit drain outlets, in the photo is the ‘94’ waterslide decal which I later removed and replaced with vinyl when I could not eliminate the ‘silvering’ problem.
A big Thank You to Mike Cummings at Vintage Model works for replacing the lettering sheets TWICE! and for the extra drawings, I call that exceptional after sales service !.
Cheers Mike 👍👍 .

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/26017
The life rings. - Posted: 12th Feb 2017
The white metal life rings supplied in the fittings kit not only look flat and uninteresting but more than that they weigh in at 57 grams individually and along with the rest of the metal fittings above deck will raise the centre of gravity quite a lot and may affect the roll of the hull on turns. Well that’s my theory anyway and I’m using it to justify replacing them with something lighter and more pleasing to the eye.
I found some plastic ones on eBay that were roughly the same diameter for a couple of pounds each that looked ideal.
The rope detail needed to be added to them to replicate the originals and this was done with some nylon cord that I superglued into slots filed into the circumference. I then wound seven turns to form the quadrants, securing each turn with a spot of glue and ensuring that the ends all arrived on what will be the underside of the rings.
They were then sprayed with a couple of coats of white acrylic and the red bands brush painted.
The weight of the new life ring is 19 grams, exactly one third of the metal one and it looks, to my eye, a million times better 😁
To locate them on the engine room roof I cut some 3mm plasticard wedges and superglued them in place, the actual fixing will be two small screws from the underside of the roof.
The white metal ones will make ideal ballast weights if I need to make any adjustments 😉

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by boaty on the 15th Feb 2017
I agree with you on the metal fittings being too heavy.

Three years ago when I restored an old 34 inch Crash Tender I bought a complete set of them and was surprised how much weight they added to the boat.

I haven't got round to changing them yet but I am now considering it.


Boaty

mdlbt.com/26003
Applying the waterline. - Posted: 11th Feb 2017
I have used a vinyl tape made by Trimline rather than trying to paint one. Starting at the stern the tape conceals the join between the red oxide anti fouling and the black gloss sides.
This is then continued to the bow but it has to cross the spray rail and this part gave me the most trouble. I ended up masking and painting the line at this point as I could not get the tape to conform to the multiple angles involved 😠 Visually it looks a bit odd and It’s far from perfect but I can’t afford to waste too much on it. Perhaps after some flatting down it will look better.
If anyone has a quick, simple and accurate method of doing this I’d love to know the secret 😞

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by jarvo on the 12th Feb 2017
I think you are being to critical of yourself, you are viewing the line at close quarters, from a foot away i think it would be invisible to all
Response by Dave M on the 13th Feb 2017
Hi Mark
Unless you are looking exactly at the side of the model with your eyes aligned to the level of the line it will look wrong because the spray rail is raised from the hull.
If you remember the old type of analogue volt meter, the better ones used to have a mirror on the scale to ensure you were viewing from the correct angle.
I suspect now that we have aired the matter many will notice this on model boats.
I suppose we are all wishing to achieve the correct finish to our models and yes we are sometimes too exacting.
Dave
Response by robbob on the 13th Feb 2017
Hi Boatshed.
Try as I might I could not achieve what you have done with the trimline tape, I'll put it down to my inexperience, this is only my second boat build in over 60 years!
Hi Javro.
You're quite right, I'm being too critical of myself and striving for perfection and failing is just beating myself up for nothing !
Looks even better from two feet away !
Hi Dave M.
I still have my trusty Avo 8 meter with it's parallax scale, not much help in this case though 😁

mdlbt.com/25823
Part 2. The searchlight optics. - Posted: 31st Jan 2017
The reflector that I originally used for testing came from Maplins and was not a particularly good fit and it also produced a broad diffused light, but I found another lens from the same supplier that could be adapted to fit and would produce a much narrower 10° beam. The lens body was too long to fit into the searchlight body so I 'ground down' the lens on some abrasive to a size that would fit using progressively finer grades of wet & dry paper.
The lens was then polished with some cutting/polishing compound to restore the optical clarity.🤓
The original and modified lenses are shown in the 'photos.
The lens now fits perfectly into the searchlight body and produces a much narrower and focussed beam of light.
I cut and shaped a piece of 1mm clear perspex to form a protective cover over the lens to hold it in the searchlight body and make it waterproof.
The searchlight on the real boat has a 'tri-form’ protective cage with a centre boss (my description, there’s probably a proper name for it ), this part is not supplied in the white metal kit so I constructed one from some 22mm copper plumbing pipe, some brass pins and a hand turned and drilled brass rod for the centre boss.
These parts were ‘soft soldered’ together as silver soldering would be quite difficult because of the different heat gradients.
Before final assembly I will paint the parts gloss grey and secure the optical and protective lens with some canopy glue which will form a flexible seal and won’t ’fog’ the lens as superglue would, and then epoxy the 'tri-form' cage to the front.
Hopefully the end result will be well worth the effort and do justice to my brother’s lathe skills!😎

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by vosper on the 31st Jan 2017
Impressive
Response by rayedgecombe on the 31st Jan 2017
very professional looking job!
👍
Response by robbob on the 11th Feb 2017
Here's the fully assembled and painted searchlight.
Robbob.

mdlbt.com/25807
Making the searchlight. Part one. The metalwork. - Posted: 30th Jan 2017
Having decided to make the searchlight a working feature I needed to make a sturdier base for it as the supplied white metal item is far too weak and not up to the job.
This is another job for the man with the lathe......😜
I want the new piece to replicate the original as much as possible so I took measurements of the white metal part and produced a dimensional drawing which I e-mailed to my brother.
A short while later the item arrived in the post with another as a spare in case I messed up the first! 😓
I annealed some ‘D’ profile brass rod and formed it to the dimensions of the original cradle and set this into a slot filed into the top of the turned searchlight base.
Before silver soldering the cradle into place I spun the part in a drill and rounded off the base with some abrasive to a profile more like the original. I also filed flats at the cradle ends and drilled them, and the searchlight body, to accept some 2mm brass screws to join the two parts together.
The base has a 2mm diameter hole bored through to accept the drive shaft from the servo and a very small grub screw secures the base onto this shaft.
The 3 watt LED is already epoxy into the searchlight body but I will replace the wire with something thinner and bring it out through the back in some heat shrink tubing.
I'm hoping that this will be flexible enough to allow free rotation of the searchlight.😊

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


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