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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Aerokit Sea Scout 'Jessica' Renovation
>> Permalink
Aerokit Sea Scout 'Jessica' Renovation Print Booklet
Author: RNinMunich   Posts: 11   Photos: 82   Subscribers: 3   Views: 1542   Responses: 114   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

Showing page 1 of 2   |   Jump to page: 1   2
The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) - Posted: 18th Mar 2018
Sooo ... Happy with the cabin and main deck so onward and upward with the hull. At a previous stage the hull was already sealed, primed and two coats of gloss Royal Blue, or at least what passes for Royal Blue in Germany - seems a little light to me but I like it anyway.
Over-spray from other operations was sanded off with a 600 grit sponge.
This revealed a few imperfections around the bow that needed sealing (EzeKote) and re-flattening. No one's perfect!😉
These areas were re-primed using a primer-filler from the pro auto branch, flattened off with 1000 and 1500 W&D and the whole hull given a quick blast of Royal Blue again and flattened with 2000 grit wet. Pic 1.

The finishing coats were then applied: 3 coats blue and 3 coats protective lacquer (contains a UV filter😎). Flattening with wet 3000 plus liquid soap between each coat.
Finally cutting polish and finishing polish, as for cabin roof and main deck.
Polishing might give her an extra knot or so, scale of course😊

Results of all this can be seen in pics 2-6.
After removing all the masking tape full effect is shown in pics 8-10.
Minor Arrrgh!: the masking tape on the main deck had been on too long and the white on the cabin walls had hardened, so when I removed the tape some paint came with it 😡 No sweat! I'll trim the cabin with a mahogany moulding 😁

BTW: the W&D used here are all Tamiya sanding sponges. Not the cheapest sort of W%D but I'm so impressed with how they work and their longevity that I've acquired a modest stock of grits from 240 to 3000😉
Only slight disadvantage; it's virtually impossible to get old colour out of them, unlike W&D paper, so you need new sponges for a new colour!
E.g. I didn't want to use sponges I'd used on the blue hull for the white cabin walls!! Big advantage: you can use them wet on raw wood without staining the wood black!

So, that's how I've spent the last two weeks, what have U lot been up to??? 😉 Happy painting people, cheers Doug 😎

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by mturpin013 on the 21st Mar 2018
Totally agree about using artist brushes my father was an artist in his spare time for many years and I inherited all his artist materials (another hobby for me to get into) the brushes although very expensive sable hair they can give superb finishes and brushes are sometimes the only way you can deal with those awkward detail. there are some hobby shops (hobbycraft in Leeds W Yorks) that do a range of artist brushes and although synthetic they are fine for model making and there faily cheap.
Response by RNinMunich on the 21st Mar 2018
Hi Boatshed, the Germans have a saying / proverb
"Übung macht den Meister"! = 'Practise makes the master' or Practise makes perfect!
Basic reasons for runs are-
1) spraying too close and
2) moving the nozzle too slow,
Both resulting in a heavy coat that can't support it's own weight!
Also trying to put another coat on before the previous one is fully dry and hard. Like I said; Patience is the main secret ingredient 😉
Cheap cans spit, quality cans don't!
The ones I use, esp. the K Series for cars, come with a selection of colour coded nozzles for Small areas cone, Medium to large cone and a large area fan shape. Mostly I use the medium nozzle. Small one if 'touch-ups' are needed 😲They nozzles also fit DIY shop cans 😊
Start spraying beyond the object and carry on at an even pace beyond the other end.
Go back in a slightly overlapping stripe until there's an even THIN coat all over.
It's like the old lady in Brooklyn who asked a Cop 'How do I get to Carnegie Hall'? Cop's answer "Practise lady, practise" 😁
BTW: shaking a good bit longer and heating the can in hot water (to increase the pressure!) can sometimes help with the 'spitting'.👍
Response by RNinMunich on the 21st Mar 2018
Hi MT, agreed the synthetics are better than they used to be, but still can't beat a good 'well run in' sable brush. 😉
Spray for the big bits, brushes for the fiddly bits! E.g. 600 scale, even for those I don't use the paint (e.g. Humbrol, Colourcoat or Revell etc) straight from the can, it's too thick and gluey for detail work 🤔 I thin it about 2 parts paint to 1 thinners. Some matt and satin maybe a bit less thinners, varies with type, colour and make. Practise, practise ...
All good fun Eh!? 😎
Main deck and cabin walls - Posted: 17th Mar 2018
Sorry the advertised Flash Gordon reel has gone 'walkies' so you'll have to make do with this boring description of how to occupy a day or three and stink out the house!😁
After the eventual success with the cabin roof I continued with the main deck using essentially the same process. First I had to extend the planking (engraving) from cabin leading edge back to the transom. Dad had only done the foredeck. Pic 1 shows starting point. AKA Square One!
Pic 2 after initial staining, pseudo planking and sealing. Plank engraving was done with a fine hardened steel scriber / centre punch and a steel rule clamped at 7mm centres. Rule was aligned so that the wood grain pushed the scriber against it. Don't ask how I realised that that was the way to do it (minor Arrrgh!)😡 Anyway, worked out in the end.

I had started with cherry wood stain but it came out too bright red so from Krick I obtained some Jotica mahogany stain (also some Oak stain for the decks of my Prince of Wales and Bismarck - but that's another pair of Sagas to be.)
Using basically the same process as for the cabin roof: two sealing coats, two matt varnish primer coats, two gloss varnish coats, two protective lacquer coats, polishing with cutting polish and top gloss polish, and lots of patience and elbow grease (this time an Italian Lugana😉) pics 3 to 5 show the result. I'm 'appy with that 😊 Note: to remove build up of sanding residue from the 'planking caulking' I had to resort to an old toothbrush or nail-brush from time to time. The sponge couldn't hack it.
The aft deck 'hatch' is still the temporary bodge-up I made 25 years ago to quickly get the boat going for my daughter. Think the ply (ca 4mm) came from the back of an old bureaux!
Haven't decided yet whether to make the new one from the same mahogany as the roof or thin ply and stain like the main deck.
Suggestions welcome please.

After the deck time to turn my attention to the cabin walls, looking pretty shabby and full of over-spray - pic 6 😲
Step 0: masking off, pics 7 & 8 'All Dressed Up and Nowhere To Go'🤔
Step 1: mucho sanding starting with 180 grit and working through to 600 ensuring removal of all traces of blue as I wanted the final finish to be Arctic White (not Ice Blue!)
Step 2: two sealing coats, flattening with 600 grit.
Step 3: spraying with Revell white primer, not impressed, gave a rough dusty finish🤔
Step 4: sand off Revell muck, flat back with 1000 and 1500 grit sponges, respray with two coats of pro white primer, flattening with 1500 and 2000+ soap respectively. Much better 😊 like the proverbial baby's ...!
Step 5: two coats of gloss white, same make as the primer!!!, flattening with 3000 grit sponge, wet + a drop of liquid soap.
Step 6: two coats of protective lacquer as with the varnish. Flattening with 3000 and soap between coats only.
Interesting effect with this lacquer and the paint (as opposed to the varnish); it seemed to 'melt and fuse' with the paint surface and smooth it out.😊 Just had to be careful not to apply too much at once in case it all ran down and took the paint with it!
Step 7: finishing with cutting polish and anti-hologram polish.
Results: pics 9 - 11. Final effect makes it look and feel like plastic or fibreglass, almost forgot that there is wood underneath😁

Next in this theatre "Hi Ho Silver Awaaaayyyy!" (Sponsored by KiOra!) or 'I'm gonna finish this hull if it kills me!'
(sorry Flash reels got lost in the post😡)
Cheers Doug 😎

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by mturpin013 on the 18th Mar 2018
looking good, as for the aft deck 'hatch' go for mahogany, and maybe a bit of surround in another wood round a hatch to break up the area. Anymore detail on the roof?
Response by RNinMunich on the 18th Mar 2018
Many Thanks MT, 👍
You're right! I've already marked out the 'hatch' on some 1.5mm mahogany to match the roof.
Have to think about the surround, i.e. have a rummage through the bits box! But I reckon you're right again, it would look better with some sort of frame.
Still haven't figured out what to do with the cockpit, or even what scale crew I should be looking for ... Help!😲
Re Cabin roof detail .. That's it for now, until I start fiddling with mast and lights an' such 😉 What did you want to know?
I've got a ship's wheel ca 1", some chrome deck fittings and Skydive has given me some inspiration regarding the 'Pulpit' rail, apart from that ......
Ciao, Doug 😎
Just remembered; I've started cutting out some 1.5mm mahog strip to make the wooden handrails on the roof. More later 😊
The Saga of the Cabin Roof or - Arrrgh! - Posted: 15th Mar 2018
Typical of Aeorokits the cabin roof skin was made of two thin pieces of ply < 1mm. Over the 50 years or so the overhang corners had started to curl up and crack 😲 Pics 1 & 2 show the 'off the shelf' condition after 25 years of neglect 🤔.
First I tried to correct this by soaking in hot water and flattening under a car battery (flattens most things😉). So far so good. Then some super glue in the cracks and back under the battery. After a day or two it just curled up again. Ho hum! Pour a glass of wine and back to the thinking board.
Seconds Out - Round Two! Thought, OK make new pieces from the 0.6mm ply I still have and paint it - then my eye fell on some 1mm mahogany sheet (Ouch 😭). Tried to make the whole roof skin in one piece of this but the compound curve defeated me. The skin was steamed and soaked in hot water and clamped across the roof frame. Next morning - Arrrgh! Had started to crack along the centre line 😭 More thinks!!

Carefully cut down the middle and glued and clamped the separate pieces; pics 3&4. Getting the two pieces to match in the middle was a tedious ***!!! Pic 5. Then mucho sanding. followed by 2 coats of Lord Nelson sealer, sand back with 600 grit sanding sponge. Then two coats of Lord Nelson matt varnish, sanding with 1000 grit in between.
then two coats of Lord Nelson gloss varnish, sanding with 2000 grit in between. Pic 6. So far so good, pic 6.
3rd coat of varnish and - Arrrgh 2! 😡 Pic 7. No idea why!
Sand off and start again, pic 8 😭
Treated each side separately, pics 9 & 10 and flatted off with 2000 grit. Then applied three coats of clear protective lacquer, sanding with 3000 grit between coats.
Finally cutting back with auto paint restorer / cutting polish and finally polishing with anti-hologram finishing polish. Pic 11.

Now I'm happy 😊 Pic 12. Only took a week 😉
Next week in this theatre -
"I love you too Flash but we've only got 15 minutes to save the world"!
'Will I ever get this hull finished?"

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by mturpin013 on the 17th Mar 2018
Hi there, Patience is a virtue, of which you appear to have a lot. AS for your slight "blooming /blushing my only answer is (raining or exceptionally cold or humid weather which often occurs when rapid evaporation of solvent cools the air over the coating below the dew point.) (internet is brilliant) however
you've set me thinking now as as you will have seen in my blog having got the roof mechanism working I have yet to apply the skins. I appreciate any thoughts on -
1 Using existing skins?
2 Using existing skins and then f/glass and cloth both sides?
3 I have a quantity of mahogany veneer 0.5mm from memory, three sheets cross grain and glue whilst the held in the compound curve?
4 use thicker ply?
Response by RNinMunich on the 17th Mar 2018
Evenin' MT, Thanks👍
Yep I know blooming from my car restoration days. Causes a dull satin effect with some whitish fogging 😡 That's not what happened here, suddenly a patch of yellowish spots appeared under the gloss!😭
Only thing I can think of is that with the last flattening with 3000 grit I used a drop of liquid soap to lubricate the sanding sponge, gives that almost glass finish. Maybe some soap residue was still there and the next lacquer coat reacted with it?
The soap is a trick I learned during car repairs. Of course then I could wash it all off with a big sponge and chuck a bucket of water over it! Not such a good idea with a model wooden boat🤔

Re 'Your skins' 😲
I used mahogany 'because it was there' and I suddenly had a picture in my mind what it could look like (Riva style😉) if I could do the job right!
I'm pretty happy with how it eventually worked out 😊
Not sure that a mahog roof fits the image of an RAF boat? and painting it would be a shame 🤔 But if you do decide to use it you may have more luck with 0.5mm, mine was 1mm+.
What are the 'existing skins'?
Re clothing: I didn't do that, didn't want to risk obscuring the wood grain on the outside and the inside I had sealed with two coats of EzeKote anyway. Cloth would have been superfluous. But if you're going to paint the roof anyway then - why not? Would give strength and rigidity.
Thicker ply? More than 0.5 / 0.6mm and you may have the problem I had with the compound curve!!!
Cheers Doug 😎
New drive Train and Oiler - Posted: 12th Mar 2018
Most of this actually took place last August / July!
Regular readers may have seen that when Dad built this boat in the 60s he put a Taycol Target field motor in it. About 25 years ago I put a Decaperm and 'modern' transistor ESC in her to provide forward and reverse. Performance was sedate to say the least.
I have since modified the Taycol (see below) so it can be run forward and reverse and decided to put it in an ancient Billings Boats Danish fish cutter (Gina) that I inherited from an Aunt. The cutter is badly in need of renovation (see pic 1) and the Taycol will be more suited to her performance requirement!
On advice from Canabus in Hobart I obtained a Propdrive 2830 1000kV brushless motor, appropriate ESC and a 35mm 3 blade prop from Raboesch. Pic 2 shows the old and new motors. Next step was to trial fit new motor mount, coupling and prop. Pics 3 &4.
While doing this it became obvious that a new shaft was in order, as mentioned in last update. Soooo, -
appropriate stainless steel rod, thrust washers and set ring were acquired and back to the workshop.
After cutting to length to accommodate the new coupling type a 3mm thread was cut a the prop end. At the inboard end I milled recesses for the grub screws in the set ring and the coupling, pics 5 - 7.
I don't like to just file(or even mill) flats for the screws cos they have a tendency to slip and work loose😡 Trial fitted the new shaft and found I'd boobed a bit with the measurements and need extra thrust washers to make up the difference. 😲 Pic 8. No sweat, they came in a pack of 50 anyway😊 You can also see in this pic that I decided to fit an oiler pipe
while everything was in bits anyway.😉
To solder it on in a cramped space without setting the boat on fire 😡 I packed a wet rag underneath and used a gas Kitchen Torch! Known as a 'Gas Gourmet Burner'. Yep, those handy little gas torches like your Missus uses to melt the brown sugar on her Crème Brûlée!! So do I, delicious 😜😉
The torches are not expensive, small, very handy, refillable with lighter gas and can be adjusted to a very small hot flame. Ideal for this job. See pics 9 & 10.
Pic 11 shows the new motor & mount, shaft and coupling all trial fitted after using a brass alignment tool I quickly made up on the lathe. Pic also shows the trial electrical installation after cleaning up the 'machinery compartment' a little and painting with silver Hammerite.
A Quickrun BL ESC is sitting in the bottom in one of the trays my Dad originally fitted for the 2 wet cell (very wet!) 6V lead acid batteries.
The home made board on the left carries the battery and ESC connectors, main ON/OFF switch with LED, blade fuse holder with a 20A fuse and a green LED which tells me if the fuse is blown! Stuck on the walls (OK Bulkheads!) with so called Servo Tape are a 6 ch Turnigy iA6 2.4Gig RX and the arming switch for the ESC. Battery compartment is sized to fit 2S and 3S hard case LiPos. For trials I can fit my Wattmeter forward of the switchboard and splice it into the battery supply using Tamiya connectors.
Might change these to XT60s later if current drain is more than 12 to 15A.
All for now, all this was pulled out again preparatory to cosmetics on the hull, decks, cabin roof and walls inside and out.
But that's another chapter so, 'Tune in next week, same time same channel when once again it's time for
Or 'The Saga of the Cabin Roof' 😉
Cheers Doug 😎
BTW: After drilling the shaft tube for the oiler pipe I flushed it out with light machine oil (pumped in from a big syringe)
and shoved a few pipe cleaners through (rotating them on the way) to remove any remaining drill swarf!!

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by mturpin013 on the 17th Mar 2018
your milling machine looks so clean can you come round and clean mine
Response by RNinMunich on the 17th Mar 2018
Cross my palm with silver!!! (Just call me Fagin😉)
Labour and materials free of charge. Travel expense only will be charged: 'At Cost'! Business Class of course😁😁
Before I started on that little exercise I spent an hour or so cleaning, oiling and adjusting the set screws! The actual work only took about 15 or 20 minutes😲
Progress on the hull - At Last! - Posted: 25th Oct 2017
After many distractions and accumulating 'stuff' to go in and on the boat I finally got around to tidying up the hull this week.
After flattening with 180 / 240 wet and dry I sealed with Ezekote flattened again then sprayed with a professional grade primer / filler from the auto branch.
As usual this showed up all the pits so I filled them with Revell Plasto and primed again. After going round this loop a few times I was (reasonably) happy and flattened with 600 W&D.
Then sprayed on Royal Blue from a giant rattle can, also from the auto pro market. Flattened off with 1200 W&D between coats. I have Tamiya Royal Blue acrylic for my air brush as well but couldn't be bothered to set up the compressor🤔 Can worked pretty well though. 👍
Last pic shows the 'Before'!
Will leave the final finishing, nameplate and lacquer coat until I have finished the internal fitting out and the cabin. Have decided to plank the cockpit with mahogany😲 just ordered from Krick! First attempt at planking - Wish me luck!
I like the blue hull so much I think I will just mark the waterline with a red (or white?) boot topping stripe. Comments welcome.
Cabin will be white with a blue roof.
Now to continue with the new prop shaft, old one is showing signs of wear at both ends and rust at the wet end 🤔 Anyway it's got an imperial thread which is useless when all my brass props are metric.
More soon, I hope 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Donnieboy on the 17th Mar 2018
Nice paint job.What about using a light blue pinstripe.The white I feel will overpower the blue.Just a thought.
Response by RNinMunich on the 18th Mar 2018
Mornin' Donnieboy, Thankyou😊
That was just the first phase of the hull job, see above for the latest instalment!
You might be right about the white 👍 Light blue may not stand out enough though? Have been pondering gold? Ciao, Doug 😎
Response by Donnieboy on the 18th Mar 2018
Gold sounds good.What about a cream colour.Beautiful job on the boat.
Taycol Test 2 with reverse :-)) - Posted: 15th May 2017
Success 😊 First attempt as per cct with + &- from bridge connected to field --> Zilch 🤔
With + & - outputs connected to brushes and the two ~ to the field coil --> perfect, Full power F and R 😊 Confirmed my suspicions!
Pic 1 shows the breadboard lash-up.
Pic 2 input waveform to brushes forward power, average 'DC' positive.
Pic 3 input with reverse power, average 'DC' negative.
Pic 4 typical current drawn near full power @ 6V. Well within Taycol spec.
Pic 5 shows the waveform with the motor in standard 'out of the box' setup, complete with sparks! Have also videoed the change in waveform with 'stick' movement.
😊 I'm happy with that. Will now tidy up the layout and make a compact board for boat installation. Tomorrow is another day 😉 Cheers all 😎

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Dave M on the 15th May 2017
Glad you got it working. The secret is to change the polarity to just one set of coils otherwise you reverse both magnetic fields. The bridge rectifier achieves this.
Current draw is as you say well within spec.
Pic 5 says it all really. Those spikes are nearly full voltage and will defo be a problem for any ESC that doesn't have fast protection diodes.
They are acting as spark transmitters and explain why early TV sets were so vulnerable to interference.
Modern Rx are much more sensitive and ESC's will react to this high pulse, so it is not surprising they suffer from interference if no suppression is in place
Hope you do an update when you have completed the wiring
Response by RNinMunich on the 15th May 2017
Yep! I remember the snow and prancing round the room with loop antennas trying to get a half decent picture!
Marconi transatlantic tests!!

Will update as appropriate. Missing the ozone scent 🤔 Oh well, you can't have everything I suppose.
Cheers Doug 😎
PS the 'secret' was clear!
Taycol First test with ESC. - Posted: 14th May 2017
Taycol Target test 1, with Graupner V30R brushed ESC. Running on 6V.
As expected full speed control with ESC connected to field terminals as usual but no reverse. Now about to try the 'lecktrickery'. More soon. 😎
Response by RNinMunich on the 15th May 2017
PS to Taycol Target / ESC tests: Interesting side effect! The sparks have gone 😊 Sorry Dave 🤔
Presumably they are damped by the diodes. The 800Hz switching frequency, as opposed to constant DC, may also play a role.
"Veeery interestink, but don't forget to tell Lucy!!". Showing my age again!
Cheers Doug. 😎
BTW copying expressly desired!
Response by Dave M on the 15th May 2017
Hi Doug
The sparks are being controlled by the diodes as you suspected and as shown on the skope. The frequency will be a factor. I suspect you can probably hear the tone through the coils, depending on your hearing.
Last I heard Lucy was still up there with the sparklers!
Be interesting to see more skope pics once you have tidied up the wiring.
Response by RNinMunich on the 15th May 2017
Yep, I can hear the tone, now the motor growls!

Not the Beatles Lucy! I meant the little guy with the German helmet who always appeared at the end of the Rowan & Martin Laugh-In on Saturday nights! Many many moons ago 🤔
Cheers Doug 😎
Taycol Pt 3. New Brushes Pt1 - Posted: 12th May 2017
1) Carefully flattened first old brush with flat jaw pliers and traced it and stick-glued to the fozzy sheet,
2) Raw cut of blank. I use tin snips with fine serrations on one blade.
stops the snips skidding and minimises curling 😉
3) First raw blank next to original after careful flattening with tack hammer and anvil and removing minor twist. For the next one I think I'll drill it in stage 1 🤔

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 13th May 2017
Yep, or 5.6mm! My micro is metric! Checked the thread as well ~ 3.2mm or 0.126" 👍 Hmm, just started peeing down - again 😆
So, onward and upward, will start on he actual boat after lunch. Ciao for now 😎 Many thanks all for the offers of help with the nuts😊
Response by Westquay on the 13th May 2017
Excellent. So now it's all up and running.
That was a quick restoration too.

Response by RNinMunich on the 13th May 2017
Sometimes (often!) takes me a while to get started, but then -
Don't get in the way!
Since working outside (sanding etc) has just been nixed by the weather think I'll start on the reversing circuit. Cheers Doug 😎
Target Renovation Part 2 - Posted: 9th May 2017
Hurrah for the Cyber Shot ! Here are the missing pics 6 & 7 of the 'nail polishing boards' from last post!
So, last night I used this board to clean up the rest of the parts. Results in
pic 8. The bitza bazaar!😊
Back to the brushes 🤔 Caught them just in time before they fractured and started chewing up the commutator! Pic 9.
They are simple phosphor bronze strips with a dimple pressed in the end for the contact.
The crest of the dimple (the actual contact area) is burned / worn away but the rims are intact so, until I can get some phosphor bronze strip I will make a temporary repair by soldering a tiny piece of thick copper wire under the hole and polishing it to shape. Wish me luck 👍😎

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 10th May 2017
Noggin the Nog ?? 😁
Response by Scratchbuilder on the 12th May 2017
I had the same problem a couple of years ago with my Taycol Target.I removed the Existing brushes, flattened the worn segment ends and soldered new carbon handmade sections onto the old brass brushes.They have worked fine to this day.NOT original I know but effective.
Response by RNinMunich on the 12th May 2017
Caaarbon!! Aih Say Sir, Gadzooks! 😉
See Part 3; I just made new phosphor bronze brushes, about to reassemble and test! 😎
The Taycol Target Renovation - Posted: 9th May 2017
Progress 😉
Dismantled and armature / field coils separated to inspect the damge-
Pic 1: 'Les Bits' or Oh gawd! How am I ever goin' to get this back together?

Pics 2 & 3: It's actually in better nick than I expected 😊 Didn't get much use as I recall.
Commutator is meatier than I expected pic 3, brushes not so good, pic 2. More to that later!
Pic 4: Cleaning up the commutator on 'the lathe'! Good enough for this job, not worth starting up the Proxon. The stand is an ancient Black & Decker accessory, the drill is an also ancient Buffalo. Think it was an AA special offer when I still lived in UK about 35 years ago. Automobile Association not what you were thinking😉
Pic 5: Commutator cleaned up a bit. Can heartily recommend the ladies nail polishing boards for this sort of job. See pic 6 & 7 . NOT nail files, they're much too coarse. The boards are a handy size for our big mitts come in packs for peanuts and have three 'grits': fine, super fine and ultra super fine👍 So I started with a nearly knackered piece of 600 wet&dry and finished off with the board.
Damn! Samsung Stupidphone won't connect to the PC😡 have to go and dig out a real camera, more soon 😎

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 10th May 2017
Yep, inside the box is a little 'Caviar' 😉 glass for the remaining nuts, screws and washers! 😎
Response by Westquay on the 10th May 2017
We had started throwing the Chinese pots away again as I was getting too big a pile, but tonight's meal came in an extra deep one, so they will be looked for in future. Something like a Mini won't fit in a normal one.

Response by RNinMunich on the 10th May 2017
Great Minds👍 Guten Appetit
I'm making some fish n chips 😜

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