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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Aerokits Solant Class Lifeboat
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Aerokits Solant Class Lifeboat Print Booklet
Author: Skydive130   Posts: 33   Photos: 145   Subscribers: 1   Views: 4628   Responses: 81   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

Showing page 2 of 4   |   Jump to page: 1   2   3   4
Hull painting and trimline - Posted: 28th Oct 2017
After over 24 hours of paint and laquer setting time, have this morning before bed (on nights) added the white trim line and RNLI flags. As I said in a previous post, adding a thin white line between top red and blue is not seen on the real thing, however I feel it gives a nicer finish and therfore is staying! RNLI flags at the stern are probably not on the orginals either? at the end of the day, this is never going to be 100% scale, but my interpritation on the classic lines and if I am honest after 30 years of building RC Aircraft ect, I have enjoyed building this as much if not more than anything in the past. Simply because it started with a set of plans and a set of inacurate templates and the hours are starting to pay off in what I hope will look good on the water, that moment is at worst only a couple of weeks away?

I have ordered some smaller gold lettering for the name as the stuff I have is too big and will look stupid, that may well arrive today? Once the rubbing strake has been fitted this week the hull will be all but done apart from the deck fittings. Stanchions almost finished, will finish those tonight at work.

Ive started thinking ahead to my next project? I was considering the plan featured in the Nov Model Boats Mag "Fairy Huntress 23", then i stumbled upon a set of plans and templates for the old Veron Vosper RTTL 28 inch which I bought. This being made of balsa and ply I consider it to be about the same weight and performance when finished to the Huntress. So on that note I will be including the same electric set-up as the huntress. This means going back to Brushless and LIpo, a subject I am more than familiar with. All electrics ordrered from Hobbyking and will collect on Tuesday as I live 3 miles from them! Reasoning behind this model is I am in the Military and like Military stuff, thefore prefered over the civillian Huntress!! I shall base my Vosper on the example displayed at RAF Hendon.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Stanchions a making! - Posted: 26th Oct 2017
Have started to make 30 stanchions from 3mm brass tube. All have a tiny brass screw at the top and a tiny section of 3mm brass tube soldered into a filed groove 35mm down. 4 stanchions either side of the hull have a brass 2mm brass support post.

10 completed 20 to go!

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Skydive130 on the 27th Oct 2017
Thanks mark, and yes unfortunately will have to paint them!
Response by Dave M on the 27th Oct 2017
You could always use aluminium and leave unpainted but difficult the add all the bits although you can get ali solder!
Looking good. I turned some brass rod to cap my tubes but I like the idea of brass screws.
Response by Skydive130 on the 27th Oct 2017
Those brass screws are tiny and cost a fortune at £2.75p for a pack of 10 x 3! That’s the reason I didn’t buy another 3 packs and used 3mm brass tube for the lower railing holes!
Impatient but hit away with it! - Posted: 26th Oct 2017
Was happy that the primer coats where dry enough to mask and get the blue on! Will defo leave this overnight to set firm.

In the morning before bed will give that promised coat of laquer then later in the day will add some white trim line. Don’t know yet, but might add a very thin white line between red and blue at top of hull. Just thinking it will give a good separation between blue and red. Can always remove if it looks naff!

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by jarvo on the 26th Oct 2017
Skydive, please don't rush the coats of paint, yes, remove the masking tape, but, allow the paint to harden possibly 24 hours, before the lacquer, it might react!!! then allow at least 24 hours before you apply the mask for the Red lower hull, otherwise you could end up with either the paint pulling off or getting the tape marking the lacquer as you press it down, make haste slowly.
Response by Skydive130 on the 26th Oct 2017
Good advice mark! I’ve had laquer reactions before and the mess it makes is horrendous! I shall let it harden until tomorrow night before doing anything else to it. In the meantime I can get on with making 30 brass stanchions!
Hull painting started - Posted: 26th Oct 2017
Have given the hull a few coats of hull red (Halfords red primer is close enough!). Have also added the red trim line at the top of the hull, most of which will disapear once the black rubbing strake is in place and its been masked off for the blue.

Will leave this to fully harden overnight before I start masking for the blue band. I am planning on having a straight water line between the red hull and the blue with a white trimline strip to seperate them. I could mask and spray the white trim line, but using a vinyl trimline which I use alot of in RC aircraft will give a much neater finish.

So, once the blue has been applied, I will give the whole hull a light coat of laquer and will then add the trimline, "Douglas Currie" gold lettering and RNLI flags before a final couple of coats of laquer to seal it all in.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Superstructure finished! - Posted: 25th Oct 2017
Today has seen some more progress. I have modified the battery tray to take the battery lying down to lower the CofG and get as much weight as possible below the intended waterline.

Have done the finishing touches to the superstructure and now considered that finished. I am sure I could add some more lumps, bumps, antennas ect but where do draw the line? At the end of the day I consider this near scale and if inacurate in anyway then so be it, the original Aerokits was only really semi-scale anyway. What is important is that I am pleased with it so far and I am sure she will look great on the lake!

Last job today was to give the hull a light sand and a final coat of resin making 3 in total. Once off, and sanded that should see the hull ready for painting once ive added the fore/aft deck thingies (dont know what they are called?)

If anyone can offer some advice on how to fit the rubbing strake when I get there that would be useful. Ive a length of 10mm black flexible tubing to use. Do I leave it as a tube, cut it any way or what? I presume its nailed to the side of the hull?

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Dave M on the 26th Oct 2017
I attached the plastic tube that came with the original kit with long brass nails. You need to just fit them so that you dont squash the tube. I painted the tube with a darkish red Humbrol before fitting.
The fore and aft bits are the bulwarks and there is also a small rail running along the edges of the deck, but set in slightly. On the real boat they carried the stanchion bearers and acted as a foot stop. They also need to have washports to allow deck water to run off.
I've attached a few pics of my Solent FYI.
I agree it was not a scale model but at the time we used IC engines that required easy and large access and this was one of the more realistic models available. Many like yourself have added lots of detail and the finished result will look the part and will be a credit to you.
Looking forward to seeing the finished Oxford Blue hull.
Response by Skydive130 on the 26th Oct 2017
Thanks Dave, some helpful info there. Looking at pics of the real thing, it appears that the bulwark fore/aft stanchions are fitted on top of the bulwarks? However for ease and probably strength most people seem to have fitted the stanchions to the inside of the bulwarks which is what I will do.

As for the washports, I shall replicate those. I plan on leaving my rubbing strake black as the most recent pics of the "Douglas Currie" show it like so.

Hull painting starts today then I shall start building the stanchions at work tonight!
Response by jarvo on the 26th Oct 2017
Skydive, she looks superb, semi scale or not few people have ever seen a Solent in real life, do what you feel is right.
Your question about the rubbing strake. I found some "D" shaped self adhesive rubber on ebay, comes in different sizes but nicely moulded, like a foam stuff, best of all it was cheap, when we inevitably smack the wall coming alongside, if it is damaged it is easily replaced !!!
Electrics are in and working! - Posted: 24th Oct 2017
Another good day of progress! Motors, ESC, Sound board, speaker and receiver are wired and going correctly. Have built the battery and speaker tray and once soldered, have tidied up the wiring.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Skydive130 on the 24th Oct 2017
Battery is as near as damn it dead centre in the hull. I have no issue adding lead weight fore or aft if required for getting the boat to sit right in the water. I heard that it’s possible to run the solent with 2 of these batteries so a little lead if needed should cause no issue. Will check CofG when I do the bath test and adjust as needed.
Response by Skydive130 on the 24th Oct 2017
My other concern now is whether or not to add the 3 crew figures I’ve bought. They being resin are quite heavy and will of course be on the deck and adding weight above the waterline could cause balance issues? Coming from scale RC aircraft, there is nothing worse than “no pilot in the office” and adding figures to scale boats to me adds that human touch. We will see?
Response by RNinMunich on the 25th Oct 2017
Go for it👍 I agree, no crew means a 'dead' boat!
For my 1:72 destroyer I shanghaied British 8th Army and German Africa Corps soldiers into the Royal Navy!
Your boat is coming on very well, good for you.
Cheers Doug 😎
PS: Also have a crew (from Revell, not painted yet) for my 1:72 Type 1 U26 one of which is actually depicted peeing over the side 😲
PS: The deck gun captain seems to have fainted!!
Question- Prop rotatio direction? - Posted: 23rd Oct 2017
Can anyone advise me on correct prop rotation direction. I will be using 2x45mm props 1 clockwise and 1 counter-clockwise. My thought is looking at the props from the rear the lefthand side will rotate clockwise and oposite for the righthand side. Please advise me if I am wrong!
Response by Skydive130 on the 24th Oct 2017
Hi Dave, I’ve gone for the single electronize esc simply because the reviewer who did a refurb in septembers model boats mag and he seem to find it fine? I’ve modified the rudders in the hope that she will turn ok. If after testing I find it does have difficulty turning, I shall look at swapping the current esc for a pair. Thank you for your comments, kind regards sy
Response by Dave M on the 24th Oct 2017
I initially used a couple of micro switches attached to the rudder servo to shut down the inner motor when turning. This early pic is from a few years ago with a 27Mhz rx and single Bobs Board!
Worked OK but you have to remember to reduce the throttle before turning.
Response by RNinMunich on the 26th Oct 2017
Bob's board!? How many years ago??? 😉

@ Skydive; don't know what radio you are using but most (all?) modern 2,4 sets have a mixer function (rudder / aileron mix) you can use to reduce the revs on one motor when rudder is applied beyond a certain limit. Two ESCs is of course a prerequisite! Cheers Doug 😎
Motors and ESC are in! - Posted: 23rd Oct 2017
Started back on doing some work on the inside today. On/Off switch, ESC, 2 x Motors (MFA 800), Prop shafts and Prop shaft supports fitted. Another coat of 2 part resin and a coat of varnish inside to end the day.

Tomorrow plan on getting the battery/sound card/speaker tray in and to give the outside of the hull its 3rd and final coat of resin before its ready to final sand and start the painting. Jusdt a couple of very small jobs left on the upper superstructure and will call that finished!

Hope to have a video uploaded tomorrow showing working lights and radar (providing the searchlight arrives from eBay, if not wednesday.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
And......! - Posted: 17th Oct 2017
Another good day of detailing. Have finished the light thingy, laquered the whole thing, made the grappleing poles, touched up paint where necesary.

Still to fit the light bulbs, searchlight, front hatch, lifebelt and radar, all post laqueing things. will have to wait until next week as back at work tomorrow. probably about 3 hours of work left on superscructure before returning to the hull.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Flack on the 19th Oct 2017
Very nice detailing - will be a real eye catcher on the pond. I would be interested to know where you sourced the grab rail stanchions from.
Response by Skydive130 on the 19th Oct 2017
Hi Shaun, grab rails from eBay search :
AM 36 model boat fittings handrail
Response by Flack on the 20th Oct 2017
Thanks for the info.
Another day of progress - Posted: 16th Oct 2017
A good day of adding detail to the superstructure. Todays acheivments included soldering the antenna mounts, antennas from carbon rod. all stanchion railings, horn, some grab handles, hatch handles. finished the day when bad light stopped play with a little paint touch up and some highlight dry brushing.

Still to do, mount working searchlight, lifebelt, grab poles,nav lights, roof antennas, front hatch, radar mounting and motor for it with a few other tiny bits n bobs before laquer and windows.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 26th Oct 2017
Love the detailing 👍 especially the 'mouse traps' 😉
Nice paint job too, much easier to keep track of on the pond than my 'grey jobs'. Think I'll have to fit flashing Aldis lamps Port & Starboard 😊

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