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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Totnes Castle 1894
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mdlbt.com/35481
Totnes Castle 1894 Print Booklet
Author: hammer   Posts: 7   Photos: 20   Subscribers: 3   Views: 2505   Responses: 101   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

mdlbt.com/45435
helm - Posted: 26th Aug 2018
Need a change from wood work. I don't know if the helm was wooden or brass. I do know that brass was very popular on later paddlers, so brass it is.
starting with a 1ins rod I turn the end so. I mark the spokes with a pointed tool, divided by my home made arrangement. A change wheel is fixed to back end of main shaft. In this case a 40, for 8 divisions. I could do with a cross drill on the tool post, but don't have an accurate one. I will have to drill the holes in the mill.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by hammer on the 27th Aug 2018
Holes drilled spokes cut & fitted, stuck with super glue. Don't want silver from solder showing. I made a mistake, should have drilled the holes before removing the waste. The drill kept skidding side ways off the centre boss. Should have just cut a grove around the boss, to see how things where going. Any way got over that. Skimming off the boss so the spokes lay level. Then made a cap to fit over them. Note the cocktail stick keeping holes aligned. Drill this out when complete. Marked the handles for length in the lathe. cut & file them before patting off.
Response by hammer on the 29th Aug 2018
Helm finished, the completion just simple turning & polish.

mdlbt.com/42541
Wheels - Posted: 8th Jun 2018
I though I had posted about wheels but cant find it. so am repeating. I have cut wheel from aluminium plate in the past. This is a waste & a tedious job. This time I am building them up with strip & rod. Wooden formers turned up for inner & outer rims. Strip raped around & Joint soldered. then holes drilled for the spokes. A hub tuned & drilled, the accurate holes have aligned every thing in the right position. One ready for soldering. Inner wheel almost flat. Outer dished to stop lateral movement. Spokes marked in red from board for bends.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Donnieboy on the 29th Jun 2018
Nice job on the paddle wheels.They look great.
Response by jtdavid on the 3rd Jul 2018
hi hammer,
you have made a nice job building those wheels, 👍 your method works great. keep posting

david
Response by hammer on the 4th Jul 2018
If I make another set of wheels I would use brass strip, not the bronze spring material I had this time. I could silver solder the main parts then. I would also try one strip around each size, mark the holes, then use as patterns for the rest. Then soldering them afterward.

mdlbt.com/42274
engine - Posted: 29th May 2018
Sketched out the engine, on a scrap of paper. the main frame 1"+ 1/8" two of joined by two 3/8" square. The square drilled through the centres (steam passages). Cylinders 5/8 hexagon, turned off centre to leave one flat. Also 1/8" left at each end to take six 10 BM studs for the end caps. The throttle - reverse mounted upright above to one side. Size over all 3"+ 3" The drawing shows most but questions welcome.
I have altered this from previous engines I have made. Split the standard so I can increase the size of the bearings. This was a weak point before, didn't wear well.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by hammer on the 27th Jul 2018
Engine room layout. A very tight fit, will be challenging to operate. The servo for regulator control will be under the forward saloon stairs. There is a bolt into the regulator through the baulkhead. Silicone pipe joining the exhaust copper, exiting up what on original, was the safety valve exit. Normal model practice is for exhaust inside the funnel. I have found this can but the flame out, when excess water runs down into fire tube. True steam out the funnel looks good but only shows on cold days. The copper steam feed pipes need connections made, & lagged. The brass circle will be the oiler. Gas pipe to make. When that is finished it will be test time on the bench. Sh*t or bust😱😱
Response by hammer on the 5th Aug 2018
I have tried to run the engine on air, but failed. I soon found the problem. I had designed the ports to be in from the end of the cylinder, to give better cover. I knew I would need a slot cut in the cylinder wall, to get steam past the piston. I had completely forgotten to do this. The photo shows the slot cut in this end of cylinder now. The photo is a close up showing all the scratches. The rough looking wall of cylinder are not that bad. they are a good thing as they will hold oil preventing wear. Well that is the theory.
Response by hammer on the 13th Aug 2018
I have engine running at last. but still wants fine tuning. Video soon.

mdlbt.com/38804
boiler - Posted: 17th Feb 2018
I was lucky to find a 103mm + 300mm copper tube, only £10, bargain. Scored in the lathe then cut with hacksaw. then tided up back in lathe. Fire tube brazed together with fins at the burner end. Silver solder cross tubes next. No cross tubes near boiler end, will disrupt burner. Reason for fins extra heat transfer.
This will be my 7th boiler.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by hammer on the 24th May 2018
Boiler complete just the pipe work to do when the engine installed. No clack feed as will remove safety valve to fill, & turn the boat over to empty, although there is a valve on the sight glass. Sorry about the shadow across the makers plate, which is level although doesn't look like it in photo.
Boiler room roof tin plate finished & painted (after photo). Skylight & hatch made to open, to allow air to burner.
Response by mturpin013 on the 30th May 2018
Nice to see some steam -(hopefully)
Response by hammer on the 31st May 2018
I already have two paddle steamers. Glen Usk @ 5ft & Duke of Devonshire @ 6ft. That’s why Totnes Castle is only 2ft-6ins. Sorry you may have to wait, as 2 steam & 3 sail need maintenance. I intend to replcacat the saloons, that is why the engine room is as similar to prototype as practical. Boiler just the flue that’s wrong. The engine & drive not correct at all, just taking the same space. Thanks for you interest.

mdlbt.com/36047
deck planks - Posted: 21st Nov 2017
I usually use coffee stirring sticks. But at this scale far to wide. I cut 3/32" strips off a 7/8" plank. Stuck them back together with a mixture of P.V.A. & acrylic black paint. Clamping over the whole length. Next day cut down the opposite way to about 1/16 & sand to a finish. Mark in the joints & nails with a pen. The planks could be any width required, & the black joints aren't to big.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by hammer on the 30th Aug 2018
Rails fitted just to see how they look. Remove and paint when the aft section is at this stage. Etching primer for copper & brass. I will cut off the excess below after final fitting. The speaking tube also fixed.
Response by hammer on the 30th Aug 2018
All the rails made, deck held up as the ends not cut off yet.
Response by figtree7nts on the 30th Aug 2018
Great work Hammer! I really like the craftsmanship!

mdlbt.com/35825
Plating - Posted: 15th Nov 2017
The patient slept most of yesterday, so managed a little play.
Cut and joined 3 plates, beet to shape on the padding on my stool. Cleaned the edges with sand paper & steel wool. Tinned where they join, big soldering iron is ideal. Seeing as I may have success I will now fit edging around the top to strengthen the edge of the tin.
The reason for tin plate, I have a plan of the Duchess of Fife specifying this method. I was afraid to try before now.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by hammer on the 4th Dec 2017
I said on post until the plating finished. Well finished one side, just three more on the other. Drilling the portholes with a cone drill. Holding with grips don't want to cut my fingers. Sized to fit brass tube, (chromed will skim off) That will be the surrounds, fitted after finished painting the hull.
Response by hammer on the 5th Dec 2017
Soldering almost finished. I have used two different melting point solders, I found that very useful. Tip don't keep you legs under the solder point, OW!
The foam mould removed along with the wooden frame. Will be replacing the frame around the deck level, and the two bulkheads each side of the engine room. Bulkheads will be recut 15mm deeper, to allow for the extra depth to accommodate the different boiler. This will be cut to the mark, the stick is on the shaft line. keeping the shorter section. Need to clean up the outside and stop the leaks, Yes there are a few, but then to few to mention.
Response by hammer on the 8th Dec 2017
Finished the hull, will be other wise engaged for a wile, so no post. I will be back.

mdlbt.com/35482
Totnes Castle 1894 - Posted: 8th Nov 2017
I have posted this on another site, but will continue here if there is interest. I have a plan taken from a book some time ago. Drawn my own sections from experience, having built 2 paddlers before. T.D.B.W. on the sections is the true depth of hull. Increased depth for stability, as steam plants are top heavy, experience again.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by hammer on the 21st May 2018
Change of plan, bent up tin plate angle to strengthen the sides on boiler room roof. Milling the brass would be wasteful I don't like waste. Another thing I disliked was the safety valve not being upright. So made a angle fitting, turned the male end in normal manner & parted off. Set in pillar drill at the required angle drilled down to meet the hole from other end. Started tap wile still in drill (by hand) then completed with wrench. Threaded a bar to fit & attached fitting in lathe, turned so the safety valve fitted flat.
Response by hammer on the 13th Jul 2018
Companionway & skylights. I took a strip of clear plastic, this cam off packaging of some sort. Strips of wood stuck on with contact adhesive. (evo stick) Scored the corners bent around fitted in place. It fits so will remove & paint wood white. Then stick hard wood strips on the out side.
Response by hammer on the 5th Aug 2018
Just pictures of the state of play.