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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Totnes Castle 1894
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Totnes Castle 1894 Print Booklet
Author: hammer   Posts: 4   Photos: 13   Subscribers: 2   Views: 966   Responses: 31   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)
boiler - Posted: 17th Feb 2018
I was lucky to find a 103mm + 300mm copper tube, only £10, bargain. Scored in the lathe then cut with hacksaw. then tided up back in lathe. Fire tube brazed together with fins at the burner end. Silver solder cross tubes next. No cross tubes near boiler end, will disrupt burner. Reason for fins extra heat transfer.
This will be my 7th boiler.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 8th May 2018
Neat idea 👍 Must add to my collection 😎
Response by hammer on the 12th May 2018
Slow progress I am afraid, other things to do. Have soldered up the engine room roof. Need to fix angle along the bottom to keep it straight. Found brass angle in my stock, but it will have to be milled smaller & thinner. Then the safety valve extension.
Response by hammer on the 24th May 2018
Boiler complete just the pipe work to do when the engine installed. No clack feed as will remove safety valve to fill, & turn the boat over to empty, although there is a valve on the sight glass. Sorry about the shadow across the makers plate, which is level although doesn't look like it in photo.
Boiler room roof tin plate finished & painted (after photo). Skylight & hatch made to open, to allow air to burner.
deck planks - Posted: 21st Nov 2017
I usually use coffee stirring sticks. But at this scale far to wide. I cut 3/32" strips off a 7/8" plank. Stuck them back together with a mixture of P.V.A. & acrylic black paint. Clamping over the whole length. Next day cut down the opposite way to about 1/16 & sand to a finish. Mark in the joints & nails with a pen. The planks could be any width required, & the black joints aren't to big.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Wingcoax on the 28th Jan 2018
Lead wiping is one of the lost arts, Can't be many left who know the tricks. Elf and stupidity rules.
Response by hammer on the 6th Feb 2018
Shaft bearings fitted in hull. hole drilled with brace & bit, brutal but did the job. Out bearing bedded in silicone, shaft & plates fixed wile setting for perfect alignment.
Response by hammer on the 11th Apr 2018
the boiler brazed, painted , tested 60psi and safety valve set 25psi. The paint looks grey but is black high temp. timber cut for insulation.
Plating - Posted: 15th Nov 2017
The patient slept most of yesterday, so managed a little play.
Cut and joined 3 plates, beet to shape on the padding on my stool. Cleaned the edges with sand paper & steel wool. Tinned where they join, big soldering iron is ideal. Seeing as I may have success I will now fit edging around the top to strengthen the edge of the tin.
The reason for tin plate, I have a plan of the Duchess of Fife specifying this method. I was afraid to try before now.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by hammer on the 4th Dec 2017
I said on post until the plating finished. Well finished one side, just three more on the other. Drilling the portholes with a cone drill. Holding with grips don't want to cut my fingers. Sized to fit brass tube, (chromed will skim off) That will be the surrounds, fitted after finished painting the hull.
Response by hammer on the 5th Dec 2017
Soldering almost finished. I have used two different melting point solders, I found that very useful. Tip don't keep you legs under the solder point, OW!
The foam mould removed along with the wooden frame. Will be replacing the frame around the deck level, and the two bulkheads each side of the engine room. Bulkheads will be recut 15mm deeper, to allow for the extra depth to accommodate the different boiler. This will be cut to the mark, the stick is on the shaft line. keeping the shorter section. Need to clean up the outside and stop the leaks, Yes there are a few, but then to few to mention.
Response by hammer on the 8th Dec 2017
Finished the hull, will be other wise engaged for a wile, so no post. I will be back.
Totnes Castle 1894 - Posted: 8th Nov 2017
I have posted this on another site, but will continue here if there is interest. I have a plan taken from a book some time ago. Drawn my own sections from experience, having built 2 paddlers before. T.D.B.W. on the sections is the true depth of hull. Increased depth for stability, as steam plants are top heavy, experience again.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by hammer on the 10th Nov 2017
Ply for the deck veneer on both sides now. I am hoping this will set the shear on the model without fixing. It will be removable as with steam plenty of room & quick access is required.
the marks on the foam are the run of the plates.
Response by hammer on the 14th Nov 2017
Drawn the plans on the sub deck, no problems there. Started the plating always work from the stern, unfortunately the most difficult part. But if I can manage here should be no problems with the rest. Cleaned off the tin with brake cleaner, before & after shown.
Work will be delayed a little as I have my nurses uniform on again. My wife has just had her 5th opp in 4 years, if I can look after her half as god as she looks after me I will be doing ok.
Response by hammer on the 21st May 2018
Change of plan, bent up tin plate angle to strengthen the sides on boiler room roof. Milling the brass would be wasteful I don't like waste. Another thing I disliked was the safety valve not being upright. So made a angle fitting, turned the male end in normal manner & parted off. Set in pillar drill at the required angle drilled down to meet the hole from other end. Started tap wile still in drill (by hand) then completed with wrench. Threaded a bar to fit & attached fitting in lathe, turned so the safety valve fitted flat.