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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Totnes Castle 1894
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mdlbt.com/35481
Totnes Castle 1894 Print Booklet
Author: hammer   Posts: 6   Photos: 17   Subscribers: 3   Views: 1315   Responses: 44   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

mdlbt.com/42541
Wheels - Posted: 8th Jun 2018
I though I had posted about wheels but cant find it. so am repeating. I have cut wheel from aluminium plate in the past. This is a waste & a tedious job. This time I am building them up with strip & rod. Wooden formers turned up for inner & outer rims. Strip raped around & Joint soldered. then holes drilled for the spokes. A hub tuned & drilled, the accurate holes have aligned every thing in the right position. One ready for soldering. Inner wheel almost flat. Outer dished to stop lateral movement. Spokes marked in red from board for bends.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by jtdavid on the 16th Jun 2018
I have really enjoyed seeing how you made your wheels 👍. will you show the finished job please, when you have done it, as I said very interesting 👍


david
Response by jtdavid on the 16th Jun 2018
forgot to ask how do you solder all them joints .


david
Response by hammer on the 16th Jun 2018
David thanks for reply. On the wheels I used this small blow torch. Small flame but very hot at point. Temperamental to light. My technique is to listen to the gas escaping, lighting when strong. I also have three soldering irons of different strengths which I used on the dull plating.

mdlbt.com/42274
engine - Posted: 29th May 2018
Sketched out the engine, on a scrap of paper. the main frame 1"+ 1/8" two of joined by two 3/8" square. The square drilled through the centres (steam passages). Cylinders 5/8 hexagon, turned off centre to leave one flat. Also 1/8" left at each end to take six 10 BM studs for the end caps. The throttle - reverse mounted upright above to one side. Size over all 3"+ 3" The drawing shows most but questions welcome.
I have altered this from previous engines I have made. Split the standard so I can increase the size of the bearings. This was a weak point before, didn't wear well.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by hammer on the 14th Jun 2018
Started work on the engine. Drilled & turned the cylinders & end caps off centre. Simply done by packing one jaw of the chuck. The reason so I can mill down the port face to increase the width. (arrow & black mark) Also reducing the amount of metal, reducing start up condensation.
Response by hammer on the 16th Jun 2018
Milled the frames from square bar for the engine. Drilled the pivot hole & hole to take the bearing. Second photo shows the layout. The gearing is lower than me previous models at 5.7 to 1. I have used 3.5 to 1 before. We will see.

mdlbt.com/38804
boiler - Posted: 17th Feb 2018
I was lucky to find a 103mm + 300mm copper tube, only £10, bargain. Scored in the lathe then cut with hacksaw. then tided up back in lathe. Fire tube brazed together with fins at the burner end. Silver solder cross tubes next. No cross tubes near boiler end, will disrupt burner. Reason for fins extra heat transfer.
This will be my 7th boiler.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by hammer on the 24th May 2018
Boiler complete just the pipe work to do when the engine installed. No clack feed as will remove safety valve to fill, & turn the boat over to empty, although there is a valve on the sight glass. Sorry about the shadow across the makers plate, which is level although doesn't look like it in photo.
Boiler room roof tin plate finished & painted (after photo). Skylight & hatch made to open, to allow air to burner.
Response by mturpin013 on the 30th May 2018
Nice to see some steam -(hopefully)
Response by hammer on the 31st May 2018
I already have two paddle steamers. Glen Usk @ 5ft & Duke of Devonshire @ 6ft. That’s why Totnes Castle is only 2ft-6ins. Sorry you may have to wait, as 2 steam & 3 sail need maintenance. I intend to replcacat the saloons, that is why the engine room is as similar to prototype as practical. Boiler just the flue that’s wrong. The engine & drive not correct at all, just taking the same space. Thanks for you interest.

mdlbt.com/36047
deck planks - Posted: 21st Nov 2017
I usually use coffee stirring sticks. But at this scale far to wide. I cut 3/32" strips off a 7/8" plank. Stuck them back together with a mixture of P.V.A. & acrylic black paint. Clamping over the whole length. Next day cut down the opposite way to about 1/16 & sand to a finish. Mark in the joints & nails with a pen. The planks could be any width required, & the black joints aren't to big.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by hammer on the 11th Apr 2018
the boiler brazed, painted , tested 60psi and safety valve set 25psi. The paint looks grey but is black high temp. timber cut for insulation.
Response by hammer on the 16th Jun 2018
I have added wood to the outer edge of the deck, (the scuppers) it projects out from the hull, forming the knuckle. That's what I call the half round strip around the hull, another needed below the sponsons, this one just stuck on. There is a raised section over the rudder arm, with a grating. Small gratings can be a problem, here is a solution, not my idea but a good one. A plastic hit & miss air vent, D.I.Y. store. I cut it with a band saw, as the blade cools down, were a jig saw melts it back again.
Response by kmbcsecretary on the 16th Jun 2018
nice tip that hammer regarding the grating would never of thought of that.

mdlbt.com/35825
Plating - Posted: 15th Nov 2017
The patient slept most of yesterday, so managed a little play.
Cut and joined 3 plates, beet to shape on the padding on my stool. Cleaned the edges with sand paper & steel wool. Tinned where they join, big soldering iron is ideal. Seeing as I may have success I will now fit edging around the top to strengthen the edge of the tin.
The reason for tin plate, I have a plan of the Duchess of Fife specifying this method. I was afraid to try before now.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by hammer on the 4th Dec 2017
I said on post until the plating finished. Well finished one side, just three more on the other. Drilling the portholes with a cone drill. Holding with grips don't want to cut my fingers. Sized to fit brass tube, (chromed will skim off) That will be the surrounds, fitted after finished painting the hull.
Response by hammer on the 5th Dec 2017
Soldering almost finished. I have used two different melting point solders, I found that very useful. Tip don't keep you legs under the solder point, OW!
The foam mould removed along with the wooden frame. Will be replacing the frame around the deck level, and the two bulkheads each side of the engine room. Bulkheads will be recut 15mm deeper, to allow for the extra depth to accommodate the different boiler. This will be cut to the mark, the stick is on the shaft line. keeping the shorter section. Need to clean up the outside and stop the leaks, Yes there are a few, but then to few to mention.
Response by hammer on the 8th Dec 2017
Finished the hull, will be other wise engaged for a wile, so no post. I will be back.

mdlbt.com/35482
Totnes Castle 1894 - Posted: 8th Nov 2017
I have posted this on another site, but will continue here if there is interest. I have a plan taken from a book some time ago. Drawn my own sections from experience, having built 2 paddlers before. T.D.B.W. on the sections is the true depth of hull. Increased depth for stability, as steam plants are top heavy, experience again.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by hammer on the 10th Nov 2017
Ply for the deck veneer on both sides now. I am hoping this will set the shear on the model without fixing. It will be removable as with steam plenty of room & quick access is required.
the marks on the foam are the run of the plates.
Response by hammer on the 14th Nov 2017
Drawn the plans on the sub deck, no problems there. Started the plating always work from the stern, unfortunately the most difficult part. But if I can manage here should be no problems with the rest. Cleaned off the tin with brake cleaner, before & after shown.
Work will be delayed a little as I have my nurses uniform on again. My wife has just had her 5th opp in 4 years, if I can look after her half as god as she looks after me I will be doing ok.
Response by hammer on the 21st May 2018
Change of plan, bent up tin plate angle to strengthen the sides on boiler room roof. Milling the brass would be wasteful I don't like waste. Another thing I disliked was the safety valve not being upright. So made a angle fitting, turned the male end in normal manner & parted off. Set in pillar drill at the required angle drilled down to meet the hole from other end. Started tap wile still in drill (by hand) then completed with wrench. Threaded a bar to fit & attached fitting in lathe, turned so the safety valve fitted flat.