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I was lucky to find a 103mm + 300mm copper tube, only £10, bargain. Scored in the lathe then cut with hacksaw. then tided up back in lathe. Fire tube brazed together with fins at the burner end. Silver solder cross tubes next. No cross tubes near boiler end, will disrupt burner. Reason for fins extra heat transfer. This will be my 7th boiler.
Started the end plates. The former is wood as I don't have any steel thick enough. Managed with wood before. Annealed to flatten the tube & cut circle on band saw. Annealed again persuade over former. Anneal again now in the citric acid.
I have a large jubilee clip I tighten around the flange, nearing completion. This stops rebound at the next tap, go around the clip tighten , repeat twice then anneal again. Finally clamped between wood, mounted upside down, the fit can be seen. The problem using wood instead of metal for the former, the edge of the copper can dig in & make removal difficult. Looking at the joint in this way avoids this. Both caps fitted, holes for sight glass & steam feed. bushes to turn up, then silver solder.
Almost ready for silver soldering up. Patch to block centre hole seen in back view, brazed inside. Two holes to drill for sight glass, bushes to turn & thread.
Boiler almost finished. Stainless plate on the front covering an old soldering pad, insulation, the rest wood. clean up & fit brass straps. tested to 60 psi & safety valve set at 25psi.
The boiler now finished so back here. It just fits had to cut 3/16" off each side of the deck surround to get it in plenty of room when in. The engine I intended to use will not fit however. So will be making a smaller version, or a completely new design. depending what metal I have in stock. With the deck in place another tight fit. The safety valve will stay at this angle. But the connector angled, to bring the funnel central & upright with a slight rake aft. If that makes sense.
I usually use coffee stirring sticks. But at this scale far to wide. I cut 3/32" strips off a 7/8" plank. Stuck them back together with a mixture of P.V.A. & acrylic black paint. Clamping over the whole length. Next day cut down the opposite way to about 1/16 & sand to a finish. Mark in the joints & nails with a pen. The planks could be any width required, & the black joints aren't to big.
I was not happy with the hull after finishing the plating. The flat sides very wobbly, & lots of runs & lumps of solder. So I removed the internal supports & the top strake up to it curved. Replaced top strake with 3mm ply fitted new bulkheads & top frame. I started to sand off the excess solder would have taken for ever. Then I remembered seeing my father wipe a lead joint, that was when water pipes where lead. I didn't have a tallow cloth so I took lard from the kitchen. Heat a small section with a pencil blow torch & wipe it clean. All done in 10mins. Glued the plank made before to the sub deck. With a home made gauge mark 3/8th in this will form the scuppers.
Shaft bearings fitted in hull. hole drilled with brace & bit, brutal but did the job. Out bearing bedded in silicone, shaft & plates fixed wile setting for perfect alignment.
the boiler brazed, painted , tested 60psi and safety valve set 25psi. The paint looks grey but is black high temp. timber cut for insulation.
mdlbt.com/35825
Plating - Posted: 15th Nov 2017
The patient slept most of yesterday, so managed a little play. Cut and joined 3 plates, beet to shape on the padding on my stool. Cleaned the edges with sand paper & steel wool. Tinned where they join, big soldering iron is ideal. Seeing as I may have success I will now fit edging around the top to strengthen the edge of the tin. The reason for tin plate, I have a plan of the Duchess of Fife specifying this method. I was afraid to try before now.
Over the weekend I had been thinking maybe it would be easer to epoxy the plates together. Having almost finished the 2 bottom strakes I will continue soldering. Finding it easer with each plate, as I learn, little tricks. Cleaning the plates with a sanding drum (dermal), keep the plate flat on the bench. Otherwise the plate will cruel up and destroy the sand paper. Don't put to much solder on the iron, or I get lumps of solder as it runs down. I am now holding the plates in place with masking tape. That is working well. Two strakes are taking almost half a can, as there are 12 strakes I will cut up 2 more cans.
The plating is going essayer with every plate, just a slow job. Finished the garboard strakes & the keel. A brass rod joins the bow. At the rudder post a tube for the rudder stock. No more on plating until it is complete. Unless someone has a question.
I said on post until the plating finished. Well finished one side, just three more on the other. Drilling the portholes with a cone drill. Holding with grips don't want to cut my fingers. Sized to fit brass tube, (chromed will skim off) That will be the surrounds, fitted after finished painting the hull.
Soldering almost finished. I have used two different melting point solders, I found that very useful. Tip don't keep you legs under the solder point, OW! The foam mould removed along with the wooden frame. Will be replacing the frame around the deck level, and the two bulkheads each side of the engine room. Bulkheads will be recut 15mm deeper, to allow for the extra depth to accommodate the different boiler. This will be cut to the mark, the stick is on the shaft line. keeping the shorter section. Need to clean up the outside and stop the leaks, Yes there are a few, but then to few to mention.
Finished the hull, will be other wise engaged for a wile, so no post. I will be back.
mdlbt.com/35482
Totnes Castle 1894 - Posted: 8th Nov 2017
I have posted this on another site, but will continue here if there is interest. I have a plan taken from a book some time ago. Drawn my own sections from experience, having built 2 paddlers before. T.D.B.W. on the sections is the true depth of hull. Increased depth for stability, as steam plants are top heavy, experience again.
If your Glen Usk and Devonshire Castle are anything to go by she will be great! Natch there's interest👍 Others here are building paddlers as well, at least one I think for the first time so hints and tips will surely be appreciated. Look forward to your Build Blog. 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Right I better get up to date. Laid the keel fitted the box for the engine room & a temporary plank at deck level. The engine room scale size as I hope to fit out the saloons. The poly foam cut out 2 for each section, the silver backing removed except for one side. Each pair is then stuck together & reduced to fit between the stations. The centres cut out to help remove all later. Having stuck this all together I will be knocking off the lumps until the silver backing at the stations shows. I hope this makes sense?
Cut off most of the excess foam with a knife. Then into the garden standing up wind, removed the rest with a blacksmith's rasp. Took about 5 minuets. Started on the deck will be making my own ply, consisting of 1/16" balsa with hard wood veneer on the bottom & deck planks on top.
wish i had thought of kingspan 👍looks a lot quicker than the planking method i have started ,averaging 4 planks a night,photos to follow soon.cheers Marky
Marky, this is only the armature for me to build the hull on as I may plank it & add ribs later as in a clinker hull. But the present intention is to make it of tin plates soldered together. I originally intended to make T.C. at 1/2"= 1ft all the way back in 2013. I made an engine & boiler for it but got involved with other things. The boiler is to big now, the engine will fit but will a boiler that fits supply enough steam for it we will see. I will often change tack, can't see plan as there isn't one. Engine can be seen running here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PsbzyY5hjQ
Ply for the deck veneer on both sides now. I am hoping this will set the shear on the model without fixing. It will be removable as with steam plenty of room & quick access is required. the marks on the foam are the run of the plates.
Drawn the plans on the sub deck, no problems there. Started the plating always work from the stern, unfortunately the most difficult part. But if I can manage here should be no problems with the rest. Cleaned off the tin with brake cleaner, before & after shown. Work will be delayed a little as I have my nurses uniform on again. My wife has just had her 5th opp in 4 years, if I can look after her half as god as she looks after me I will be doing ok.
