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I though I had posted about wheels but cant find it. so am repeating. I have cut wheel from aluminium plate in the past. This is a waste & a tedious job. This time I am building them up with strip & rod. Wooden formers turned up for inner & outer rims. Strip raped around & Joint soldered. then holes drilled for the spokes. A hub tuned & drilled, the accurate holes have aligned every thing in the right position. One ready for soldering. Inner wheel almost flat. Outer dished to stop lateral movement. Spokes marked in red from board for bends.
May be someone may want to make paddles using this method. If you do & you have a lathe should be no problems. First turn wooden blanks & mark centre & number of spokes required. Rap strip brass around the former cut & join to a tight fit. it is important as this will keep them the same size. Align the drill accurately to the spokes. Drill one & pin it with a short piece of spoke material, so the strip doesn't move wile drilling rest. The centre hub was divided in the lathe. On assemble three spokes in my case immediately aligned the rings, that is if the holes are right. If not fettling is the order of the day. I soft soldered mine as the structure is inherently strong. Note soldered away from the marks on blanks, to preserve them. The dishing can be seen on the finished upright wheel. This was achieved by a thick washer under the hub, & clamping the outer ring down on to the former. I did try bending the spokes before fitting. But had trouble as the rings didn't align automatically. Clean up by hand. Only Three more to make.
Having used spring bronze, (Thanks Derek) I wish now I had used brass & silver soldered the joints. I will have to epoxy the floats in place now. Don't want them to melt the rest. Can't say I altered the plan because there isn't one. But I dished the inner wheel more than the outer in the end.
David thanks for reply. On the wheels I used this small blow torch. Small flame but very hot at point. Temperamental to light. My technique is to listen to the gas escaping, lighting when strong. I also have three soldering irons of different strengths which I used on the dull plating.
Great job, and nice clear pic 👍 Thanks Hammer 😊 Now we can see the refinements of your construction. Good stuff.
I also use a mini gas torch sometimes, in pistol grip form with adjustable flame. Pizo ignition, dead easy. Get 'em in good cooking accessory shops. Good for soldering oil tubes on brass prop tubes an such. Cooks call them Gourmet Torches and use 'em for their Crème Brulet 😊 Also various electric irons, 50 W with a 1/4" chisel bit for big stuff, standard 25W general purpose, temp controlled 25W,and a mini 1mm bit temp controlled for SMD work. Good for small LEDs etc. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Also one electric iron 1200W ........ . . . . for ironing shirts! Ugh!! 😡
If I make another set of wheels I would use brass strip, not the bronze spring material I had this time. I could silver solder the main parts then. I would also try one strip around each size, mark the holes, then use as patterns for the rest. Then soldering them afterward.
mdlbt.com/42274
engine - Posted: 29th May 2018
Sketched out the engine, on a scrap of paper. the main frame 1"+ 1/8" two of joined by two 3/8" square. The square drilled through the centres (steam passages). Cylinders 5/8 hexagon, turned off centre to leave one flat. Also 1/8" left at each end to take six 10 BM studs for the end caps. The throttle - reverse mounted upright above to one side. Size over all 3"+ 3" The drawing shows most but questions welcome. I have altered this from previous engines I have made. Split the standard so I can increase the size of the bearings. This was a weak point before, didn't wear well.
Started work on the engine. Drilled & turned the cylinders & end caps off centre. Simply done by packing one jaw of the chuck. The reason so I can mill down the port face to increase the width. (arrow & black mark) Also reducing the amount of metal, reducing start up condensation.
Milled the frames from square bar for the engine. Drilled the pivot hole & hole to take the bearing. Second photo shows the layout. The gearing is lower than me previous models at 5.7 to 1. I have used 3.5 to 1 before. We will see.
Original Standard sadly distorted when silver soldering together I got it to hot. A change of plan I now intend have two output gears one at 3to1 the other at 5to1. Three to one is my normal preference. But the 12 floats (paddles) are very close together so will start with 5to1. If this is slow can use 3to1 without much trouble. I have remade the standard, Second attempt soldered the bar then machined it after, this stopped any distortion. Stainless pivot bar fitted, will cut out inner section later. Large hole for removable crank bearing. Just the exit holes to the ports to drill when the crank it finished & blank off the 4 ports at entry end.
Don't understand the half of it, I'm just a dumb electronics man, but I do admire your ingenuity and tenacity 👍 Await the outcome with great interest. 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎
Thanks for replying Doug. Steam is simple I wish I understood electronics. It will be come clear soon I hope. The steam passages inside the frame are the difficult bits t o explane. The 4 holes in the end drilled 1-1/4ins along the frame they have to miss the pivot hole & connect to holes in the port face to be drilled later. I do like to design my own engines.
Hi Hammer. all Greek to me but I do enjoy seeing the magnificent results under way and appreciate the precision work required 👍😊 Watching with (ignorant😲) interest, but learning a little along the way. Keep it up, All the best, Doug 😎
End caps fitted to cylinders. Drilled & tap 10BA. Marked the centre for pivot hole. I use marker pen cheaper, than engineer's blue. Only two screws on the caps, might be considered poor. That is one reason I have made them thicker than normal. the other reason will give more cover to the ports, as they will be very near the end. Not much time in shop, at the pool with grand kids.
A little more done on the engine. Steam ports & pivot holes drilled in cylinders. Oil light bronze bearing ready to fixed. Piston rods ready I will be silver soldering piston blanks in place. Then with the rod in chuck turn the blanks to fit. Chrome crank shaft, pin & web in the picture ready for cutting. The strip of ali with four holes will mark the steam ports in the frame. when the crank is fitted. The small gears fit between the bearing & crank web. As I said before this will give the chance to change ratios if the low is to low.
Hi Hammer, this is all fascinating stuff👍 BUT! Your pictures are way too small🤔 The site blows them up so that all we see are pixels and no details 😭 Please adjust your camera to a much higher resolution. Thanks in advance 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Trouble with big pictures all the rough bits can be seen. I will be smoothing & polishing when construction complete. Made the crank webs first glued the together, super glue, drilled the holes. Unfortunately they fell apart so had to use bolts to file to shape. Soldered the gear & pin, used an aluminium stubb to hold gear in place. Solder won’t stick to it of course. Marked the ports in the frame with gauge. Not drilled yet will do that in mill. Using a hat pin as a centre finder.
Never mind the rough bits, we all appreciate that there's some cleaning and fettling to come. Main thing we can see the construction detail 👍 Beginning to get very interesting 😉 Doug 😎
Almost done pistons & rods. I had to revert to threading the rods into the pistons. Had a disaster with silver soldering them. Holding rod in the lathe turning the piston true to the rod. I had upset the temper, both rods snapped. I had no stainless of that size left. Had to turn down larger diameter. I had a home made traveling steady, so very easy. All other photos taken to day lost in computer somewhere. Take more tomorrow.
All parts of the engine made. It is set at the angle it will be installed in the boat. The regulator- reverser will probably be mounted remotely, but how knows. The gland nut drilled down a solid core in the cylinder for better alignment I hope. Have to hold the nut when drilling other wise it will undo.
Hub made for the shaft gear. Some will notice I am using 10BA slotted counter sunk screws, this is because bought at a show by mistake. So must use them up. The layout of the engine room can be seen now. Gas tank can be removable from ther ,for filling. The engine will not be at such a steep angle. I also have to find room for a separator. O yes the boiler moves back 1/4in when fixed.
Made a bracket for the bottom of engine. The two holding screws block the holes drilled for the ports, the other two will have studs. The bracket at the other end will be fitted by trial & error. I had a fright thought the shaft gear was going through the deck. but as seen just got away with it. Fitted the pipes towards the regulator - reverser. Those 10BA screw head look big in the photo! I will have to cut and fit bends as they foul the gas tank as they are. No one has asked how the cylinders will be kept against the frame. I have several plans see which is best, soon.
Hi Hammer, we're all too Gobsmacked to even think about wondering about cylinders and frame! We're now waiting with bated breath to see how you want to bend the 10BA screw heads 😉😁 This dumb lectrickery engineer, who can't seem to cut a simple 3mm thread on a propshaft, is fascinated by your mechanical wizardry 👍 Keep it coming, can't wait for the test and trials! All the best, Doug 😎
Some times I am stupid. No need for extra bends on the pipes. All I needed to do was turn the engine over putting the pipes on the other side. Clear of every thing. I have threaded studs in the passage holes drilled from the side & end to form the steam ways. Fixed with metal-epoxy, trim when set. Also started the bed.
Started the separator tank. Well cut a tube & a space it will just fit, I hope. If not I have a smaller gas tank, in another boat, but like to keep it there. The paddle wheel looks crooked in the photo it is not, blame the ipad lenses
mdlbt.com/38804
boiler - Posted: 17th Feb 2018
I was lucky to find a 103mm + 300mm copper tube, only £10, bargain. Scored in the lathe then cut with hacksaw. then tided up back in lathe. Fire tube brazed together with fins at the burner end. Silver solder cross tubes next. No cross tubes near boiler end, will disrupt burner. Reason for fins extra heat transfer. This will be my 7th boiler.
Started the end plates. The former is wood as I don't have any steel thick enough. Managed with wood before. Annealed to flatten the tube & cut circle on band saw. Annealed again persuade over former. Anneal again now in the citric acid.
I have a large jubilee clip I tighten around the flange, nearing completion. This stops rebound at the next tap, go around the clip tighten , repeat twice then anneal again. Finally clamped between wood, mounted upside down, the fit can be seen. The problem using wood instead of metal for the former, the edge of the copper can dig in & make removal difficult. Looking at the joint in this way avoids this. Both caps fitted, holes for sight glass & steam feed. bushes to turn up, then silver solder.
Almost ready for silver soldering up. Patch to block centre hole seen in back view, brazed inside. Two holes to drill for sight glass, bushes to turn & thread.
Boiler almost finished. Stainless plate on the front covering an old soldering pad, insulation, the rest wood. clean up & fit brass straps. tested to 60 psi & safety valve set at 25psi.
The boiler now finished so back here. It just fits had to cut 3/16" off each side of the deck surround to get it in plenty of room when in. The engine I intended to use will not fit however. So will be making a smaller version, or a completely new design. depending what metal I have in stock. With the deck in place another tight fit. The safety valve will stay at this angle. But the connector angled, to bring the funnel central & upright with a slight rake aft. If that makes sense.
Funnel made from an old hospital walking stick. The aluminium at 1/8th thick, so I turned it down to 1/16th, leaving the rings. Fixed to the boiler at vertical with the correct rake astern. The photos don't give that impression. But it is all correct, honest.
Started on the boiler room roof. Cardboard patterns, with skylight & access hatch drawn in. The tinplate marked out, rivets punched, folded & soldered on the corners.
Cut the tinplate & scored the bends inside. As this represents steel or more likely iron. I have represented rivets. Now the clock wheel method has never worked for me. So my method, a block of wood with a row of self punching panel pins. that is the reason for the photo. pins with conical heads.
Slow progress I am afraid, other things to do. Have soldered up the engine room roof. Need to fix angle along the bottom to keep it straight. Found brass angle in my stock, but it will have to be milled smaller & thinner. Then the safety valve extension.
Boiler complete just the pipe work to do when the engine installed. No clack feed as will remove safety valve to fill, & turn the boat over to empty, although there is a valve on the sight glass. Sorry about the shadow across the makers plate, which is level although doesn't look like it in photo. Boiler room roof tin plate finished & painted (after photo). Skylight & hatch made to open, to allow air to burner.
I already have two paddle steamers. Glen Usk @ 5ft & Duke of Devonshire @ 6ft. That’s why Totnes Castle is only 2ft-6ins. Sorry you may have to wait, as 2 steam & 3 sail need maintenance. I intend to replcacat the saloons, that is why the engine room is as similar to prototype as practical. Boiler just the flue that’s wrong. The engine & drive not correct at all, just taking the same space. Thanks for you interest.
mdlbt.com/36047
deck planks - Posted: 21st Nov 2017
I usually use coffee stirring sticks. But at this scale far to wide. I cut 3/32" strips off a 7/8" plank. Stuck them back together with a mixture of P.V.A. & acrylic black paint. Clamping over the whole length. Next day cut down the opposite way to about 1/16 & sand to a finish. Mark in the joints & nails with a pen. The planks could be any width required, & the black joints aren't to big.
I was not happy with the hull after finishing the plating. The flat sides very wobbly, & lots of runs & lumps of solder. So I removed the internal supports & the top strake up to it curved. Replaced top strake with 3mm ply fitted new bulkheads & top frame. I started to sand off the excess solder would have taken for ever. Then I remembered seeing my father wipe a lead joint, that was when water pipes where lead. I didn't have a tallow cloth so I took lard from the kitchen. Heat a small section with a pencil blow torch & wipe it clean. All done in 10mins. Glued the plank made before to the sub deck. With a home made gauge mark 3/8th in this will form the scuppers.
Shaft bearings fitted in hull. hole drilled with brace & bit, brutal but did the job. Out bearing bedded in silicone, shaft & plates fixed wile setting for perfect alignment.
I have added wood to the outer edge of the deck, (the scuppers) it projects out from the hull, forming the knuckle. That's what I call the half round strip around the hull, another needed below the sponsons, this one just stuck on. There is a raised section over the rudder arm, with a grating. Small gratings can be a problem, here is a solution, not my idea but a good one. A plastic hit & miss air vent, D.I.Y. store. I cut it with a band saw, as the blade cools down, were a jig saw melts it back again.
nice tip that hammer regarding the grating would never of thought of that.
mdlbt.com/35825
Plating - Posted: 15th Nov 2017
The patient slept most of yesterday, so managed a little play. Cut and joined 3 plates, beet to shape on the padding on my stool. Cleaned the edges with sand paper & steel wool. Tinned where they join, big soldering iron is ideal. Seeing as I may have success I will now fit edging around the top to strengthen the edge of the tin. The reason for tin plate, I have a plan of the Duchess of Fife specifying this method. I was afraid to try before now.
Over the weekend I had been thinking maybe it would be easer to epoxy the plates together. Having almost finished the 2 bottom strakes I will continue soldering. Finding it easer with each plate, as I learn, little tricks. Cleaning the plates with a sanding drum (dermal), keep the plate flat on the bench. Otherwise the plate will cruel up and destroy the sand paper. Don't put to much solder on the iron, or I get lumps of solder as it runs down. I am now holding the plates in place with masking tape. That is working well. Two strakes are taking almost half a can, as there are 12 strakes I will cut up 2 more cans.
The plating is going essayer with every plate, just a slow job. Finished the garboard strakes & the keel. A brass rod joins the bow. At the rudder post a tube for the rudder stock. No more on plating until it is complete. Unless someone has a question.
I said on post until the plating finished. Well finished one side, just three more on the other. Drilling the portholes with a cone drill. Holding with grips don't want to cut my fingers. Sized to fit brass tube, (chromed will skim off) That will be the surrounds, fitted after finished painting the hull.
Soldering almost finished. I have used two different melting point solders, I found that very useful. Tip don't keep you legs under the solder point, OW! The foam mould removed along with the wooden frame. Will be replacing the frame around the deck level, and the two bulkheads each side of the engine room. Bulkheads will be recut 15mm deeper, to allow for the extra depth to accommodate the different boiler. This will be cut to the mark, the stick is on the shaft line. keeping the shorter section. Need to clean up the outside and stop the leaks, Yes there are a few, but then to few to mention.
Finished the hull, will be other wise engaged for a wile, so no post. I will be back.
mdlbt.com/35482
Totnes Castle 1894 - Posted: 8th Nov 2017
I have posted this on another site, but will continue here if there is interest. I have a plan taken from a book some time ago. Drawn my own sections from experience, having built 2 paddlers before. T.D.B.W. on the sections is the true depth of hull. Increased depth for stability, as steam plants are top heavy, experience again.
If your Glen Usk and Devonshire Castle are anything to go by she will be great! Natch there's interest👍 Others here are building paddlers as well, at least one I think for the first time so hints and tips will surely be appreciated. Look forward to your Build Blog. 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Right I better get up to date. Laid the keel fitted the box for the engine room & a temporary plank at deck level. The engine room scale size as I hope to fit out the saloons. The poly foam cut out 2 for each section, the silver backing removed except for one side. Each pair is then stuck together & reduced to fit between the stations. The centres cut out to help remove all later. Having stuck this all together I will be knocking off the lumps until the silver backing at the stations shows. I hope this makes sense?
Cut off most of the excess foam with a knife. Then into the garden standing up wind, removed the rest with a blacksmith's rasp. Took about 5 minuets. Started on the deck will be making my own ply, consisting of 1/16" balsa with hard wood veneer on the bottom & deck planks on top.
wish i had thought of kingspan 👍looks a lot quicker than the planking method i have started ,averaging 4 planks a night,photos to follow soon.cheers Marky
Marky, this is only the armature for me to build the hull on as I may plank it & add ribs later as in a clinker hull. But the present intention is to make it of tin plates soldered together. I originally intended to make T.C. at 1/2"= 1ft all the way back in 2013. I made an engine & boiler for it but got involved with other things. The boiler is to big now, the engine will fit but will a boiler that fits supply enough steam for it we will see. I will often change tack, can't see plan as there isn't one. Engine can be seen running here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PsbzyY5hjQ
Ply for the deck veneer on both sides now. I am hoping this will set the shear on the model without fixing. It will be removable as with steam plenty of room & quick access is required. the marks on the foam are the run of the plates.
Drawn the plans on the sub deck, no problems there. Started the plating always work from the stern, unfortunately the most difficult part. But if I can manage here should be no problems with the rest. Cleaned off the tin with brake cleaner, before & after shown. Work will be delayed a little as I have my nurses uniform on again. My wife has just had her 5th opp in 4 years, if I can look after her half as god as she looks after me I will be doing ok.
Change of plan, bent up tin plate angle to strengthen the sides on boiler room roof. Milling the brass would be wasteful I don't like waste. Another thing I disliked was the safety valve not being upright. So made a angle fitting, turned the male end in normal manner & parted off. Set in pillar drill at the required angle drilled down to meet the hole from other end. Started tap wile still in drill (by hand) then completed with wrench. Threaded a bar to fit & attached fitting in lathe, turned so the safety valve fitted flat.
Companionway & skylights. I took a strip of clear plastic, this cam off packaging of some sort. Strips of wood stuck on with contact adhesive. (evo stick) Scored the corners bent around fitted in place. It fits so will remove & paint wood white. Then stick hard wood strips on the out side.
