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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works
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The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works Print Booklet
Author: mturpin013   Posts: 45   Photos: 359   Subscribers: 14   Views: 12193   Responses: 121   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

Showing page 3 of 5   |   Jump to page: 1   2   3   4   5
Final fitting of cabin roof skins - Posted: 3rd May 2018
Now that the internal detail of the cabin has been finalised and fixing points made for each of the panels and floor pieces (all parts of the cabin detail are to be removable) I can now finally fit the cabin roof skins. Since the leading edge has an overhang which because of the lifting design hasn’t the same framework support I have decided to reinforce the joint with stainless steel ensure a perfect fit, I made a tiny jig out of brass angle that ensured all the holes in each piece lined up. I then placed pieces of silicon sheet on the parts I really didn’t want the skins to stick to the cabin framework. Fist all the pieces were position and pinned to ensure a good fit, they were then removed adhesive applied and the skins finally placed and pinned, most of the pins will be removed when it’s dry. The centre panel has an opening for the hatch so this was put in prior to fixing. After a day’s drying it’s time to see if the whole thing works as envisaged, thankfully it does. The roof will now have to be dismantled so further work can be carried out it, will also get a covering of glass matting to add overall strength.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by BOATSHED on the 3rd May 2018
That piece of video of the cabin roof is awesome. Are you going to have it working off of the radio control like that. Are you going to fit out the cabin as well ?
Response by mturpin013 on the 4th May 2018
Radio control roof ? not sure about that but yes the cabin is already detailed see earlier in the blog and final pictures will follow when all the metalwork is completed. Roof only opens to be able to see internal detail
Response by RNinMunich on the 4th May 2018
RC roof!? What for? No equivalent in the original, not like a Rhine Schiff with retractable wheelhouse. Unless maybe to 'doff the roof' to the ladies 😉
A sort of Nautical 'Hat's off' 😁
Cabin windows again - Posted: 25th Apr 2018
Having remade all the front cabin window frames I then decided to fit the acrylics into the opening (nice tight fit) all done! Or maybe not, someone then said how about “opening windows” it’s been done before. So would opening windows be a problem with water ingress? And would putting foam seals solve this problem? I’m not convinced. Having given the problem some days thought, how about going with the windows as planned which are now 1.5mm thick and inset into the surround. Then fitting an over window frame 1.0mm ply/plasticard with another thinner (1.0mm) acrylic window and hinging this above each window. This would solve the issue of water ingress and also give the appearance of opening front windows. Looking at how one other person approached this, it looks like the hinge was a brass tube across the majority of the window top and then a shorter piece the same dia tube at each end with an internal wire for rotation these short pieces are then fitted to the body of the inner window frame. These additional window frames can be added at a later stage and this doesn’t hinder the final finishing of the roof skins. So final fitting and adjustment and then pin and clamp in position the forward roof skins. When these are dry the window frames can be finally trimmed and then pinned into position and checked for fit then removed and then to each one apply the aliphatic glue and fit –pin and clamp in position

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 26th Apr 2018
Interesting solution !
What you are actually describing is otherwise known as 'secondary double glazing'...😜
Keep up the great work.
Roof Skins - Posted: 21st Mar 2018
Having sorted the windows out, they can now wait until the detailing is finished before final fitting. The roof skins are all compound curves so they will need to be steamed and formed before fitting as they will definitely have to hold their shape as there isn’t as much to fasten them to in terms of framework. After final fitting I will glass both inner and outer faces which will ensure the shape is retained and also help strengthen them to withstand any bumps /knocks during its lifetime. I made formers out of some softwood to match each of the roof profiles. Each piece was then soaked in hot water for around 5 mins and then clamped on the formers and left to dry for a day or so.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by BOATSHED on the 26th Apr 2018
pmdevlin, the side window frames in the three pictures to you posted, WHERE did they come from. Are they home made or can you purchase them if so where from. They are nicely shaped, never seen them before.
Response by pmdevlin on the 27th Apr 2018
for some reason I cant see the pics I posted! so cant say where they came from, can you post them up?
Response by BOATSHED on the 3rd May 2018
I cannot see the pictures now. They were there when I posted that question.
Cabin Windows - Posted: 21st Mar 2018
Now the cabin roof mechanism is working I have to finish all the detail in the cabin before I effectively seal the cabin with window frames and roof skins. However I thought I would check the fitting of the windows and roof skins just as a change from detailing. Because the roof is now movable it means the roof skins will need additional support. Also the windows as given were short in terms of height and the roof skins only fitted where they touched and both would need some remodelling/remaking. I decided to remake the windows out of 1.5 mm ply instead of the 1mm supplied in the kit and resize the overall dimensions and then slightly reposition the window openings. The 1.5mm will also accept the plastic windows within the opening instead of being just stuck to the inside. I forgot to mention that the front deck needs fitting before the cabin construction starts as the porthole pieces sit on top of the deck

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 21st Mar 2018
Hmmm! 'Stuck to the inside' may well actually reflect the original construction. Flush butted with the frame would make them awful susceptible to blowing in! 😲
Response by pmdevlin on the 22nd Mar 2018
Bit of trivia! Maybe something you want to consider the outermost front windows actually open by hinging at the top something I have only seen modelled once before. I decided against this on my boat due to Possible water leaks
Response by mturpin013 on the 22nd Mar 2018
The front cabin acrylics fit into the ply frames at the moment, (tight fit) now you've set me thinking. Another diversion!
Cabin roof mechanism - Posted: 15th Mar 2018
As I mentioned in a previous post I want to put some detail into the cabin and in order to do this I wanted the roof to open so that the detail can be seen and also giving good access for construction and detailing. So I looked at various lifting lever systems and the one which gave greatest access and took minimal room was a simple parallel bar mechanism. I first made a card model to ensure it worked before investing a lot of work in making the real thing. I used some brass plate cut into 3 x 2mm strips and using 10BA fastenings I constructed the levers and securing plates. Before fitting the mechanism and cutting any roof trusses I tried the mechanism using the brass bars and a card roof replica to once again prove its operation. I then added further cross beams to ensure the roof frame stays stable when the roof is lifted and that the roof skins had sufficient support when closed. All through this design and make session the cabin frame was only secured by temporary pins and had and no roof skins fitted, this enabled it to be lifted off in one piece whilst working on the frame. Now the mechanism works the cabin detail can be finished before finally fitting the roof skins.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by BOATSHED on the 18th Mar 2018
I still have a 34" Raf crash tender still unbuilt that I bought back in 1994 when they released a run of 50 on the 50th anniversary of the model in the Model Boats magazine. I also have a Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works sitting in my shed. One day I will get around to building them Along with restoring my Sea Hornet, Sea Commander, Sea Queen and my Huntsman along with several other boats, including an MFA Spearfish and a Stratos Interceptor, Hydrofibre Pipedream both of which were the same company just that they had a change of name. Along with at least 3 others. I will do them sometime.
Response by mturpin013 on the 18th Mar 2018
Boatshed by name and by the size of your fleet apparently!
Response by BOATSHED on the 18th Mar 2018
I named my shed, The Boat Shed. Its a brick built building 13 ft x 10 ft. It was here when we moved here. And that's where I used my name from on here. So yes you are correct. The last 2 I bought were a RTR Proboat Miss Geeco and a Graupner Rhode Island F1 tunnel hull ARTR.
Cabin detail Pt 2 - Posted: 13th Mar 2018
The next piece is what I can only describe as the dash board (what’s the nautical term?) Bridge? Anyway it’s the bit with all the knobs and levers that make it go. I chose to stick with ply construction throughout the build so will be using 1mm 3 ply. I copied all the dimensions from a cross section detail of the cabin instruments and controls and then made card models first to ensure everything fitted. I made spaces for the speed control and compass and drawn up detailed drgs of the instruments which I hope to make from 0.5mm stainless steel with back lighting of the dials and general lighting from LEDs. The cabin area will finish at the door to the galley kitchen.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 13th Mar 2018
Love the attention to detail and the skill 👍
BTW: that's HIGH PRAISE indeed from Robbob!
Check out his own incredibly detailed Build Blog on this site 😉
Cheers Doug 😎
Response by mturpin013 on the 14th Mar 2018
Thanks for the pictures, very helpful I'm working on the three panels now but something so small takes more time than building the main structure of the boat, however I do enjoy all aspects of the build and hopefully this idea will work out
Response by boaty on the 22nd May 2018
Like the fine detail. It shows that a masterpiece can be made of models with the skills and patience.

I restored a 34 inch Fire Boat in 2014. Got it for almost nothing as it was a complete wreck and was heading for the nearest skip.

Outcome was very rewarding but I never thought of doing a detailed interior as such. Mmm, its given me ideas now, only thing I want is the time to do it.

Cabin detail Pt 1 - Posted: 13th Mar 2018
I wanted to try and recreate the detail as per the available photos and drawings that I had so the first thing was to try and make the cabin have walls and a door, so previously I had cut away bulkhead B2 and extended CF2 to the bottom skin and put the door opening in. Now for the actual piece of cabin floor, the entry is slightly strange as there appears to be an inset step from the from the sick bay up into the cockpit but then it is relatively straight forward, it was made from 2mm ply. Planking was something I have never done so a lot of research was done prior to starting. I decided to use a lime wood plank with a black 0.3 black card divider (caulk) all glued with aliphatic adhesive. I found the process quite enjoyable and the results on the test piece for a first attempt were quite pleasing. I then wanted to reproduce the nailing of the planks so I devised a small tool to ensure a consistent pattern Its simply a piece of obeche with four holes, 4 brass pins and a black divider line, this is simply placed on the join line and then tapped with a light hammer and filled with the tip of a black pen. The first attempt looks slightly misaligned but proved the system worked, I have made a more accurate one for the real floor. After the planks were set it was sanded flat which unfortunately leaves the wood grain blackened by the black card dust, however using a plastic eraser it’s easily removed ready for sealing. I thought that the door opening needed some sort of finishing/dressing so I decided to manufacture a mahogany door frame and handrail around the cabin.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by molly on the 16th Jul 2018
hi many thanks for the info much apreciated, colin😊
Response by colsey on the 4th Aug 2018
hi its colin here again sorry to bother you, between the planking you said you used black card, i can only get black card i A4 size at 300 gsm, is that what you used, or can you tell me where i can get the same as you used, thank you for your help, colin
Response by mturpin013 on the 13th Aug 2018
Colin sorry for the late reply I got the card from a shop called Hobby Craft in Leeds West Yorks Have a look at this chart for paper thickness comparisons.
Foam tank grating Pt 2 - Posted: 28th Feb 2018
Now I have the cut blank material it needs to be cut into 3mm strips, this can be quite tricky as I found. As the fence was set to 3mm and the first cut was made the slice started to catch the back of the blade and knock some of the pieces off. So I needed to make sure that it was guided past the back of the blade. So as you can see I set another piece of Perspex behind the blade 3mm wide to hold the piece clear as the cut was finished.
Next a trial fit of the pieces and it works just fine. Now I need to cut pieces to the length of the foam tanks ready for assembly. I need to cut some mahogany edging and a blank panel to complete the whole assembly. I then made a small jig to hold all the pieces together as they are assembled then each joint was “set” with a tiny drop of cyno and left to fully cure. When fully set I could then sand the surface to complete the tank tops, they will be varnished at a later date.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 28th Feb 2018
Hi Michael.
Excellent work on the foam tank gratings 👍

I assume you tried to source from Modellingtimbers initially?

For those that don't have the kind of tooling that you have the gratings are also available from this alternative supplier:

Their product range and prices are very good, and delivery is remarkably cheap and very quick too considering they are based in Poland.

I have sourced various bits from them for my fireboat and I can thoroughly recommend them (although they seem to be presently out of stock of the 3mm gratings 🤔)
Response by BOATSHED on the 28th Feb 2018
I like the gratings and was thinking, I wish I could make them. It's great to see that they are available from a source already made to cut to size required. Thanks robbob.
A rest from skinning (foam tank grating) - Posted: 28th Feb 2018
I wanted to recreate the foam tanks as another blogger has (Rob) so I tried to order some grating from one of the model suppliers only to find he was no longer producing the size I wanted (3mm) and that he was unfortunately running his business down. So what to do, how about make my own. First decision was what material to use; I wanted a close grain, quite hard, stable wood and after some searching I came across an item in IKEA of all places - a bamboo chopping board. So the first issue is reduce the board to 6mm thickness, fortunately I have a milling machine which using a large dia cutter blade cutter and clamping direct to the table I first machined to 8mm to see how much the material had bent having relieved surface stress, to my amasement it was perfectly flat, so I continued to size the material to 6mm. The best method of producing the pieces is use a method which advances the cut each time by using the previous cut as a gauge. This has to very accurate, so first set the fence at 50mm and plunge the table saw through a piece of flat board (I used a spare wooden floor tile) this gives the slot for the blade (3mm) at this point secure the board to the table with panel pins. Next move the fence a further 3mm (be as accurate as possible) and lift the board from the table and again plunge through making another slot next to the first, this slot has to be filled with a 3mm strip that protrudes above the surface by 3mm (this is the guide) I used some 3mm Perspex. Next re-attach the board in the original position and secure the board again. Now raise the blade to 3mm and make the first cut, followed by a second and check the advance is 3mm if all is well continue across the board for as many cuts as you need.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Side skins - Posted: 28th Feb 2018
To enable ease of application of the side skins I decided to raise the building board up to 45 degrees, this allows a better view of the proposed joints
Before fitting the bottom skins the side skins have to be trimmed back to the stringers and deck line again using a red pencil to show how much material is being removed as I approach the stringers with the plane. Having done that little job it’s time to shape the skin. I followed the same procedure as I did with the side skins. Again after some time I got a fit I was happy with from the stern to the start of the bow curve. At this point I pinned the skin at the B2,3,4,5 leaving enough material to trim to the bow curve and also trim the cut-out where the skin joins with a butt joint as opposed to the overlap from bow to stern, this is all done prior to bending. Notice the steel shim protecting the chine from being cut as the bottom skin is trimmed for the overlap of the side skin. The bending was done simply by soaking in hot water for 5 - 7 mins and then forming around a suitable size paint tin and left overnight to dry. I first pinned the stern end dry and then epoxied the bow area then followed by more epoxy and progressive pinning towards the stern using brass pins into the bulkheads and smaller pins along the overlap which will be removed when the joint is dry. I made a tempory clamping arrangement at th bow by pinning some scrap ply to the top beck atea to enable clamps to be used, notice the use of a mirror to be able to make sure the joint had come together

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

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