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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works
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mdlbt.com/37275
The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works Print Booklet
Author: mturpin013   Posts: 23   Photos: 178   Subscribers: 10   Views: 3690   Responses: 60   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

Showing page 1 of 3   |   Jump to page: 1   2   3  

mdlbt.com/40257
Roof Skins - Posted: 21st Mar 2018
Having sorted the windows out, they can now wait until the detailing is finished before final fitting. The roof skins are all compound curves so they will need to be steamed and formed before fitting as they will definitely have to hold their shape as there isn’t as much to fasten them to in terms of framework. After final fitting I will glass both inner and outer faces which will ensure the shape is retained and also help strengthen them to withstand any bumps /knocks during its lifetime. I made formers out of some softwood to match each of the roof profiles. Each piece was then soaked in hot water for around 5 mins and then clamped on the formers and left to dry for a day or so.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by pmdevlin on the 24th Mar 2018
sorry to hijack your blog!
Response by RNinMunich on the 24th Mar 2018
Wonderful wonderful brass-work Paul, Hat Off 😉
Those hinges are exactly what I have in mind for my Sea Scout cabin door 👍 Sorry to hear about your mate, but you did him proud, well done. Doug
Response by mturpin013 on the 25th Mar 2018
What a wonderful piece of work, something to work up to, I keep getting theses diversions

mdlbt.com/40246
Cabin Windows - Posted: 21st Mar 2018
Now the cabin roof mechanism is working I have to finish all the detail in the cabin before I effectively seal the cabin with window frames and roof skins. However I thought I would check the fitting of the windows and roof skins just as a change from detailing. Because the roof is now movable it means the roof skins will need additional support. Also the windows as given were short in terms of height and the roof skins only fitted where they touched and both would need some remodelling/remaking. I decided to remake the windows out of 1.5 mm ply instead of the 1mm supplied in the kit and resize the overall dimensions and then slightly reposition the window openings. The 1.5mm will also accept the plastic windows within the opening instead of being just stuck to the inside. I forgot to mention that the front deck needs fitting before the cabin construction starts as the porthole pieces sit on top of the deck

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 21st Mar 2018
Hmmm! 'Stuck to the inside' may well actually reflect the original construction. Flush butted with the frame would make them awful susceptible to blowing in! 😲
Response by pmdevlin on the 22nd Mar 2018
Bit of trivia! Maybe something you want to consider the outermost front windows actually open by hinging at the top something I have only seen modelled once before. I decided against this on my boat due to Possible water leaks
Response by mturpin013 on the 22nd Mar 2018
The front cabin acrylics fit into the ply frames at the moment, (tight fit) now you've set me thinking. Another diversion!

mdlbt.com/39957
Cabin roof mechanism - Posted: 15th Mar 2018
As I mentioned in a previous post I want to put some detail into the cabin and in order to do this I wanted the roof to open so that the detail can be seen and also giving good access for construction and detailing. So I looked at various lifting lever systems and the one which gave greatest access and took minimal room was a simple parallel bar mechanism. I first made a card model to ensure it worked before investing a lot of work in making the real thing. I used some brass plate cut into 3 x 2mm strips and using 10BA fastenings I constructed the levers and securing plates. Before fitting the mechanism and cutting any roof trusses I tried the mechanism using the brass bars and a card roof replica to once again prove its operation. I then added further cross beams to ensure the roof frame stays stable when the roof is lifted and that the roof skins had sufficient support when closed. All through this design and make session the cabin frame was only secured by temporary pins and had and no roof skins fitted, this enabled it to be lifted off in one piece whilst working on the frame. Now the mechanism works the cabin detail can be finished before finally fitting the roof skins.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by BOATSHED on the 18th Mar 2018
I still have a 34" Raf crash tender still unbuilt that I bought back in 1994 when they released a run of 50 on the 50th anniversary of the model in the Model Boats magazine. I also have a Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works sitting in my shed. One day I will get around to building them Along with restoring my Sea Hornet, Sea Commander, Sea Queen and my Huntsman along with several other boats, including an MFA Spearfish and a Stratos Interceptor, Hydrofibre Pipedream both of which were the same company just that they had a change of name. Along with at least 3 others. I will do them sometime.
Response by mturpin013 on the 18th Mar 2018
Boatshed by name and by the size of your fleet apparently!
Response by BOATSHED on the 18th Mar 2018
I named my shed, The Boat Shed. Its a brick built building 13 ft x 10 ft. It was here when we moved here. And that's where I used my name from on here. So yes you are correct. The last 2 I bought were a RTR Proboat Miss Geeco and a Graupner Rhode Island F1 tunnel hull ARTR.

mdlbt.com/39877
Cabin detail Pt 2 - Posted: 13th Mar 2018
The next piece is what I can only describe as the dash board (what’s the nautical term?) Bridge? Anyway it’s the bit with all the knobs and levers that make it go. I chose to stick with ply construction throughout the build so will be using 1mm 3 ply. I copied all the dimensions from a cross section detail of the cabin instruments and controls and then made card models first to ensure everything fitted. I made spaces for the speed control and compass and drawn up detailed drgs of the instruments which I hope to make from 0.5mm stainless steel with back lighting of the dials and general lighting from LEDs. The cabin area will finish at the door to the galley kitchen.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 13th Mar 2018
This build just keeps getting better !!
Here's a drawing of part of the control panel that shows a little more detail and a still from the Pathe video that shows a bit more.
I hope they are helpful.
Robbob.
Response by RNinMunich on the 13th Mar 2018
Love the attention to detail and the skill 👍
BTW: that's HIGH PRAISE indeed from Robbob!
Check out his own incredibly detailed Build Blog on this site 😉
Cheers Doug 😎
Response by mturpin013 on the 14th Mar 2018
Thanks for the pictures, very helpful I'm working on the three panels now but something so small takes more time than building the main structure of the boat, however I do enjoy all aspects of the build and hopefully this idea will work out

mdlbt.com/39870
Cabin detail Pt 1 - Posted: 13th Mar 2018
I wanted to try and recreate the detail as per the available photos and drawings that I had so the first thing was to try and make the cabin have walls and a door, so previously I had cut away bulkhead B2 and extended CF2 to the bottom skin and put the door opening in. Now for the actual piece of cabin floor, the entry is slightly strange as there appears to be an inset step from the from the sick bay up into the cockpit but then it is relatively straight forward, it was made from 2mm ply. Planking was something I have never done so a lot of research was done prior to starting. I decided to use a lime wood plank with a black 0.3 black card divider (caulk) all glued with aliphatic adhesive. I found the process quite enjoyable and the results on the test piece for a first attempt were quite pleasing. I then wanted to reproduce the nailing of the planks so I devised a small tool to ensure a consistent pattern Its simply a piece of obeche with four holes, 4 brass pins and a black divider line, this is simply placed on the join line and then tapped with a light hammer and filled with the tip of a black pen. The first attempt looks slightly misaligned but proved the system worked, I have made a more accurate one for the real floor. After the planks were set it was sanded flat which unfortunately leaves the wood grain blackened by the black card dust, however using a plastic eraser it’s easily removed ready for sealing. I thought that the door opening needed some sort of finishing/dressing so I decided to manufacture a mahogany door frame and handrail around the cabin.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 13th Mar 2018
Hi Michael.
Looking forward to part 2 of this instalment, lovin' the detail 👍.
Robbob.
Response by RNinMunich on the 13th Mar 2018
I'll second that 👍👍👍
Lucky you didn't use the 'black' sand paper wet! I did once and it permanently stained the wood black, not just surface effect 😡
Since then I only use dry cabinet paper for finishing raw wood in sensitive areas.

With your extended bulkheads I'm wondering where you are going to fit 'the works'! Or is this to be a static display model?
Whatever, beautiful woodwork, salutations, Doug 😎
Response by mturpin013 on the 14th Mar 2018
It will be a working model and the power details are to follow. (don't want to give you too much at a time) the area between BH 3 and 4 will house the motor, ECS fuse box etc. I may detail the "Sick Bay" which is between B2 and B3 and batteries will be in the area BH 4 and 5 and of coarse the area that houses the hoses etc in the stern will be detailed.

mdlbt.com/39275
Foam tank grating Pt 2 - Posted: 28th Feb 2018
Now I have the cut blank material it needs to be cut into 3mm strips, this can be quite tricky as I found. As the fence was set to 3mm and the first cut was made the slice started to catch the back of the blade and knock some of the pieces off. So I needed to make sure that it was guided past the back of the blade. So as you can see I set another piece of Perspex behind the blade 3mm wide to hold the piece clear as the cut was finished.
Next a trial fit of the pieces and it works just fine. Now I need to cut pieces to the length of the foam tanks ready for assembly. I need to cut some mahogany edging and a blank panel to complete the whole assembly. I then made a small jig to hold all the pieces together as they are assembled then each joint was “set” with a tiny drop of cyno and left to fully cure. When fully set I could then sand the surface to complete the tank tops, they will be varnished at a later date.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 28th Feb 2018
Hi Michael.
Excellent work on the foam tank gratings 👍

I assume you tried to source from Modellingtimbers initially?
http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/7.html

For those that don't have the kind of tooling that you have the gratings are also available from this alternative supplier:
http://www.rbmodel.com/index.php?action=products&group=016

Their product range and prices are very good, and delivery is remarkably cheap and very quick too considering they are based in Poland.

I have sourced various bits from them for my fireboat and I can thoroughly recommend them (although they seem to be presently out of stock of the 3mm gratings 🤔)
Rob.
Response by BOATSHED on the 28th Feb 2018
I like the gratings and was thinking, I wish I could make them. It's great to see that they are available from a source already made to cut to size required. Thanks robbob.

mdlbt.com/39274
A rest from skinning (foam tank grating) - Posted: 28th Feb 2018
I wanted to recreate the foam tanks as another blogger has (Rob) so I tried to order some grating from one of the model suppliers only to find he was no longer producing the size I wanted (3mm) and that he was unfortunately running his business down. So what to do, how about make my own. First decision was what material to use; I wanted a close grain, quite hard, stable wood and after some searching I came across an item in IKEA of all places - a bamboo chopping board. So the first issue is reduce the board to 6mm thickness, fortunately I have a milling machine which using a large dia cutter blade cutter and clamping direct to the table I first machined to 8mm to see how much the material had bent having relieved surface stress, to my amasement it was perfectly flat, so I continued to size the material to 6mm. The best method of producing the pieces is use a method which advances the cut each time by using the previous cut as a gauge. This has to very accurate, so first set the fence at 50mm and plunge the table saw through a piece of flat board (I used a spare wooden floor tile) this gives the slot for the blade (3mm) at this point secure the board to the table with panel pins. Next move the fence a further 3mm (be as accurate as possible) and lift the board from the table and again plunge through making another slot next to the first, this slot has to be filled with a 3mm strip that protrudes above the surface by 3mm (this is the guide) I used some 3mm Perspex. Next re-attach the board in the original position and secure the board again. Now raise the blade to 3mm and make the first cut, followed by a second and check the advance is 3mm if all is well continue across the board for as many cuts as you need.
TBC.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/39273
Side skins - Posted: 28th Feb 2018
To enable ease of application of the side skins I decided to raise the building board up to 45 degrees, this allows a better view of the proposed joints
Before fitting the bottom skins the side skins have to be trimmed back to the stringers and deck line again using a red pencil to show how much material is being removed as I approach the stringers with the plane. Having done that little job it’s time to shape the skin. I followed the same procedure as I did with the side skins. Again after some time I got a fit I was happy with from the stern to the start of the bow curve. At this point I pinned the skin at the B2,3,4,5 leaving enough material to trim to the bow curve and also trim the cut-out where the skin joins with a butt joint as opposed to the overlap from bow to stern, this is all done prior to bending. Notice the steel shim protecting the chine from being cut as the bottom skin is trimmed for the overlap of the side skin. The bending was done simply by soaking in hot water for 5 - 7 mins and then forming around a suitable size paint tin and left overnight to dry. I first pinned the stern end dry and then epoxied the bow area then followed by more epoxy and progressive pinning towards the stern using brass pins into the bulkheads and smaller pins along the overlap which will be removed when the joint is dry. I made a tempory clamping arrangement at th bow by pinning some scrap ply to the top beck atea to enable clamps to be used, notice the use of a mirror to be able to make sure the joint had come together

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/38974
Skinning the hull (bottom) - Posted: 21st Feb 2018
The boat has to be placed upside down so first thing to do is to modify the base board so the hull is firm to be able to do any final trimming. Before the skins are fitted the bow areas have to be sealed being careful not to seal the parts which are to be glued The instructions say that the lower skins are fitted first and as they are 6mm oversize this allows for trimming to achieve a good fit. After some time I got a fit I was happy with from the stern to the start of the bow curve so at this point I pinned the skin at the B2,3,4,5 leaving enough material to trim to the bow curve prior to bending . The bending was done simply by soaking in hot water for 5 - 7 mins and then forming around a suitable paint tin and left overnight to dry. Before fitting I decided to trim the skin at the front bow area where it has a butt joint with the side skins, easier than trying to cut it out after it had been glued. Point to note was that while the bending was being carried out, I also bent he side skins as well. Having pre drilled all the holes for the pins and ensured the fit is as good as I can get I can now epoxy the first skin on.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by BigAlio on the 25th Feb 2018
nice too see a good quality job keep up the good work

mdlbt.com/38972
Trimming the stringers - Posted: 21st Feb 2018
Before fitting the skins the chine and gunwhale stringers have to be trimmed to the profile of the bulkheads, this is a time consuming job but is essential to get correct to ensure a good fit of the skins. Also final trimming of the bow k1,2,3 needs to be done now that they are fitted and “a virtual line can be drawn” to show where the skin will eventually sit flush. Using a red pencil to show how close to each bulkhead you have trimmed is a good guide’

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


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