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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works
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mdlbt.com/37275
The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works Print Booklet
Author: mturpin013   Posts: 38   Photos: 303   Subscribers: 12   Views: 8746   Responses: 88   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

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mdlbt.com/46736
Cabin roof hatches - Posted: 3rd Oct 2018
Rear cabin hatches
I have decided to make these two roof hatches detachable (not working) purely to ease the painting and rubbing down process. The hatches on the rear cabin are supplied in pieces to be glued together, so to make them detachable I drilled a hole through the base of each and glued an 8BA screw in place, these can then be secured after final painting to the roof. The hatch also has a dummy-hinged lid and small white metal hinges are supplied, however they do need some attention, such as drilling all the holes and trimming the edges. Here we go again, time for a jig! Repartition can be achieved with the simplest of jigs; all I used was coffee stirrers pinned to a block of wood and one as a locking device. The jig was then placed under the milling machine and the first hole centred, drilled and then the next hinge is placed in the jig and drilled and so on, move to the next hole until all holes are drilled. Before fitting the hinges there needs to be a separation line for the lid and hinge plate so a scored line about halfway through the ply. The hinges are fitted with epoxy and brass pins through all the fixing holes.

Mid cabin hatch
This is a single hatch, again a square of ply is supplied, but this is improved by adding sides, which can locate on runners, again the runners are not supplied. This hatch is also attached with a single screw epoxied into the top and a nut, after final painting.

Forward cabin hatch
Again, a single hatch and dealt with in the same way as the mid hatch.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 3rd Oct 2018
Apropos 'Inspiration' Michael'! Great stuff 👍
Hinges like that are just what I want to make on my Sea Scout.
I plan to make mine from 0.3mm brass and working!😲
Will also use my mini milling machine as s precision drill press as you did👍
Cheers, Doug 😎
Response by mturpin013 on the 5th Oct 2018
I look forward to seeing some jigs and fixtures and of course the finished article

mdlbt.com/46316
Life Rings - Posted: 18th Sep 2018
The white metal fittings supplied with the kit are somewhat lacking in detail and some are overweight to say the least. I decided to produce some life rings to my specification I had tried to find suitable replacements on the web without success. So how to produce the ring part.
I first tried with plywood but the finish achievable was not acceptable (can be seen in the pictures) so I then decided to use Bamboo (Ikea phone stand) for those who have followed from the start the same material as the grating on the foam tanks. First I cut some rough circles out of 10mm bamboo sheet and drilled a 10mm hole so it can be mounted on a 10mm screw mandrel. This allows the piece to machined on one side and then reversed and machined on the other side. The tool I used was ground with a 22 mm radius to produce the shape on one side of the ring and then when reversed and machined again the tool actually “parts off” the ring on the inner diameter leaving the ring free on the now remaining peg, the finish on the bamboo was good enough without any further sanding. The next step was to put a slot in the OD at 90degree intervals to hold the “rope” in position while the rope is bound in four places. The easiest way was to make a jig to hold the ring and to keep the rope in place while it’s glued into ring, it can then be removed and bound in four places each turn being super glued to keep it in place. Next job is to give a coat of sanding sealer that stiffens the rope and seals the wood. The rings are theoretically held to the cabin roof with clamp type brackets so again to ensure consistency I machined a piece with a suitable profile. I then cut radial slices to create individual brackets. The rings will actually be fastened to the cabin roof with 2 x 8BA bolts this is to enable them to be removed for painting of both the ring and the roof. At a later painting stage, I will be giving them two coats of grey primer and three coats of white, then hand painting the rope loops with red paint. The finished rings are much lighter and hopefully look more realistic.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/46135
Boat lifting eyes - Posted: 12th Sep 2018
Boat lifting eyes
As has been said by others the boat lifting eyes are a small detail but an important one, somehow when detailing gets in your head its difficult not to seek it out. Anyway, there are six eyes three on each side, which I presume, are for lifting the boat out of the water, unfortunately there isn’t any detail on size so it’s down to “builders eye”. I made the six in a batch, that’s to say I first made six identical pieces 10.5mm x 20.5mm x 2mm thick and drilled the hole in each then the six pieces fastened together with an M4 screw and then machined together to ensure uniformity and ease of production. I then skimmed them to final size 10 x 20 followed by milling the concave and convex radii on the top. I intend to sink the eye into the deck and secure using a brass pin sideways into the gunwhale stringers and epoxied into position. To ease fitting I made a small jig, which will allow a 2mm slot to be cut in the exact position on the deck along with a drilled hole at 90 degrees. Two small grub screws fasten the jig to the gunwale stringers while the slot and holes are machined. After all the slots had been prepared I then made all the foot rails that run along the edge of the deck from bow to stern, the first set I used the obeche supplied in the kit, however as they are in a place that could get knocked I decided to rework then in walnut. Finally I pre drilled all the foot rails ready for temporary pinning. Having all the components ready it is time to assemble with epoxy resin, using sparingly and making sure not to get any on the visible part of the brass lifting eyes and using pins to hold in position while curing.
PS sorry about some of the picture quality but I didn't check them until after assembly

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by MouldBuilder on the 14th Sep 2018
Looks really good. I am a precision engineer but I still look in awe at the way you get around making small items.
Sorry Doug, but this is the next project for me. With this blog to help with all of its detailed instructions, what could go wrong. Well except perhaps everything.😊
Response by RNinMunich on the 14th Sep 2018
More power to your slide rule Peter👍
Remember those!?😉
Response by Colin H. on the 14th Sep 2018
What size Thorney crofts to pull all that brass, she's not gonna need much ballast, Joking aside it's a great build, as a retired engineer I have a a great admiration for your work, keep it up matey. Cheers Colin.

mdlbt.com/45769
Mid Deck - Posted: 3rd Sep 2018
Now I am in the swing of planking I may as well do all the remaining decks that need planking. Therefore, very much the same procedure as before with a mahogany border, followed by caulking the inside edges of the mahogany border, then cutting the planks roughly to length, and then finally trimming on the disc sander for an exact fit. When all he planks have been dry fitted, they can are removed and glued with aliphatic glue. A couple of days to completely dry then it’s on with the sanding before finishing with sanding sealer I marked all the nail holes using the marking tool I made. This is all on this deck until final finishing which will be done with all the other decks.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 3rd Sep 2018
An excellent Tutor Mike, many thanks👍
Will try to use these techniques on the cockpit of my Sea Scout.
Possibly also on the fish cutter renovation as well.
Old (Sea) Dog - new tricks!?😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

mdlbt.com/45039
Aft cockpit deck - Posted: 13th Aug 2018
I first cut the base material to size allowing a card thickness all round for final clearances. The lower deck has a number of features in it that need to be measured. I took dimensions from the plans and marked out the base. Again following the upper deck which has a mahogany boarder I cut and planed a further amount of 6mm x 1.5 strips of material. I started by outlining the mahogany boarders, Some years ago I made a mitring device for picture framing which has come in very handy for doing the corners. Having all the pieces cut they are then glued and temporally pinned in position until set. The next job is to prepare all the edges with black card and then measuring each plank across the width starting from the centre line. I must take into account how the planks sit against main access hatch and the battery hatch opening however, all seems to look good but until each plank is positioned and glued with its caulk divider it’s difficult to tell. When preparing each plank I first cut each piece oversize with wire cutters then using the disc sander I trim square one end, then place in position and mark for final length and finish again on the disc sander giving each plank a nice push fit
Because lime planking varies in colour across a batch I numbered each plank across the deck varying the pattern of colours as I cut each to length. Next I cut a number of card pieces to length and start to glue (using Aliphatic glue), plank, followed by card filler across the half width, then repeat the other side.
Finally the battery hatch and main access hatch are treated in the same manner.
Next comes the finishing , I use a very fine grade on my belt sander (I attach a block on the underside of the main access deck to control the sanding process) to remove the majority of excess irregularities followed by an orbital sander for a fine finish. If there is any staining by the black card residue I simply remove it with a pencil rubber. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. Final finishing will be done as a complete assembly. Preparation of the side panels is the next process before final assembly

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/43973
Rear Deck assembly –(upper tow deck) - Posted: 20th Jul 2018
I propose to make the rear deck and the deck which carries the tow hook all as a complete piece that lifts out in one. Although its going to be in one piece the full assembly still has to be made as separate components so first job is to cut the individual panels again using the card inserts to make sure the end assembly has clearance. The tow hook deck is the first piece to be dealt with and epoxied as a sub assembly. Having completed the wooden frame I then took a break and did some more planking, first a mahogany boarder and then glue a black card calk around its inside edge, next cut and sand each plank to fit in the space left, these could then be glued in place with a black card calk between each plank. After a period of drying I sanded the whole surface level. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. When the rest of the subassemblies are complete they will all be lacquered together before final assembly.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Ianh on the 5th Aug 2018
Hi Gents
I have found this build fascinating including robbob's build. I have one these to build but will be doing an Aerokits Sea Commander first. As these designs go back to the 60's and were designed by Les Rowe ( I know I had one with an ED Racer in it.) So I will be referring back to this quite a bit. Will start a build blog on it. Shouldn't be to difficult busy changing my model engineering workshop to build boats. Model Engineering too expensive now boiler for my Springbok cost close GBP 1 300.00 alpne 😊😊. Trouble is I am importing all parts from UK etc. Between royal snail mail and SA post office I need to order any requirements in advance.
Response by mturpin013 on the 7th Aug 2018
I'm glad your enjoying the build and how strange, I also had a 36" model crash tender in the early sixties with a marine ED Racer we used to sail on Roundhay Park lake in Leeds but regrettably we sold it, needed the money for other things back then.

mdlbt.com/43707
Cabin roofs - Posted: 14th Jul 2018
Theoretically this should be a very straight forward process and a change from rubbing down the hull so let’s look at the instructions – what instructions! First of all fit some thin card to the sides of the cabin walls to allow for a clearance fit (cornflakes packet) then some minor trimming of the spars to give an exact ,(not tight) fit across the side supports, I decided to pin each of the parts together as well as epoxy in the joints. I always find the best approach is to use a jig to drill pilot holes for the pins ensuring that the pins do not split the wood and the construction is accurate. The frame is then glued up and placed back in the boat and left to dry next job is to fit the corner strengthening pieces, the easiest way I found was to put a card support for the corners to rest on whilst they set still in the cabin structure. Looking forward I had decided to retain the cabin lids with Neodymium magnets so I machined a slot in the corner pieces underside to house the magnets, to be fitted at a later date.

Next job is to fit the roof skins which again will be pinned using the 0.7mm brass pins. The roof skins are now epoxied in place so I need to mark out the position of the secondary panels. Looking at the pieces and the instructions the spacer frames seem to be the same size but I was sure I’d read somewhere that these overhung by 2-3mm, reading Robs blog conformed this to be the case. So some trimming required before fitting and marking out the appropriate position then being glued into position.
The mid cabin was assembled in exactly the same way

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/42877
Fibreglass the hull- continued - Posted: 18th Jun 2018
Now the Chine rubbing strakes are fitted, dry and filled and I have attended to the minor lumps and bumps the next job is to give another coat of resin, taking the issues of the first application into account I intend to apply a thin coat, this has the effect of filling in the pattern of the glass cloth.
Another two days have passed and it’s time to do some rubbing down. I have found that the surface is very hard, more so than I recall some of the other fibre glass projects I have done but these have been using Polyester resin. It’s a first for epoxy, so is epoxy a better choice than Polyester? According to my mini research –


 Epoxy is more versatile
 Epoxy has fewer fumes
 Epoxy is stronger
 Epoxy shrinks less

Conclusion
Epoxy is the better choice for repairing/covering either wooden hulls or repairing fiberglass boats. It has excellent adhesive qualities, wets out fiberglass fabrics and it is tough. It has great thin film cure characteristics, cures in cool temperatures.
After the first coat I wasn’t 100 % happy with the finish but I just thought that some dust had landed on the surface before the resin had dried, (this was proved not to be dust but because of the matting pattern still been visible it disguised the real problem) however this was easily sanded out with wet & dry. Now the hull and deck were looking really smooth with very little sign of the matting pattern it was time to give a final coat. I had decided to coat both the deck and the hull in one go so I mixed enough resin to do the lot. Starting with the deck I started to apply the resin but to may horror it started to pin prick all over the deck surface, panic, panic what was causing this? So was it the brush which I had previously washed out with cellulose thinners after applying the last batch of resin. I decided to remove the resin and use a new brush (I had 90 mins cure time to do this) so cleaning of with paper towel and finally with a wipe with thinners I started to apply resin again – but it happened again as I sat in despair I looked into the pot of resin wondering where to go next when I saw a film on the top of the remaining resin It was then I noticed a ridge in the cups side. It was the wax coating that had melted into the resin and subsequently appeared as pin pricks in the newly applied surface. At this realisation I removed all the resin again and took a breather hoping I had found the problem.
Another day and a light rub down of the deck to make sure the surface is ready to receive its final coat. Resin weighed (in a glass container this time) and well mixed I started to apply again and fortunately it was OK and all surfaces were coated.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by NPJ on the 5th Sep 2018
That has saved me a lot of bother!
thanks.
NPJ

mdlbt.com/42832
Chine rubbing strakes - Posted: 17th Jun 2018
As the hull glass matting is really dry and has had some minor filling done it’s time to fit the chine rubbing strakes. which have been in the jig now for some days and consisted of a two dimensional curvature jig. In order to make sure the strakes were equally balanced on each side I made a cardboard template that followed the Chine stringers line and rested on the Gunwhale rubbing strakes, having drawn a line on the port side I flipped the template over and drew a line on the starboard side giving a perfectly equal curve on each side So now to prepare them for fitting. The jig had made a curve that was a really good fit without much spring. I decided to use some very small brass pins (0.5dia x 10mm long) to hold them whilst the epoxy sets. I pre drilled the whole length of the strake and lightly inserted pins along its length, then applied the epoxy and started to fix from the bow and followed the pencil line back to the stern. This was repeated on the other side, when set there was some minor filling to be done/filling pin holes.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/42317
Glassing the deck - Posted: 31st May 2018
Since I had been finishing the Gunwhale rubbing strakes and had the boat right side up and I was going on holiday for a few days I decide to glass the deck this would give the deck time to set. So some fine filling and then cut the matting to shape. Again I put a light coat of resin onto the deck then allowed the matting to sink into the resin, a minimal amount of brushing is required and then its left to harden overnight. The resin is now sufficiently hardened after two days so before I go away I can apply another light coat of resin which fills the matting pattern very easily - a week away now will allow the resin to harden fully.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


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