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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works
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mdlbt.com/37275
The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works Print Booklet
Author: mturpin013   Posts: 27   Photos: 213   Subscribers: 10   Views: 4637   Responses: 71   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

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mdlbt.com/41924
Rubbing stakes - Posted: 20th May 2018
Before I do the final coats of epoxy the rubbing stakes need to be fitted but then Robbob pointed out the vulnerability of the bow particularly when transporting through doorways. I decided to take that advice and make a brass bow bumper, this will not be visible when finished but will stop any structural damage if the bow is hit, it was screwed and epoxied in position. The design also incorporates a location for the rubbing strakes holding them in position when fitting.
Thanks Robbob

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 20th May 2018
Impressive.....
Nicely engineered and looks quite substantial 👍👍, hopefully you can blend it into the rubbing strakes to be virtually invisible.
Well worth the effort to incorporate at this stage, I just wish I had done so myself 😭.
I'm glad that you can benefit from my bad experience.
That's what this forum is all about 😁.
Great work as always.
Rob

mdlbt.com/41743
Fibreglass the hull - Posted: 13th May 2018
I purchased as recommended by Robbob the fibreglass package which consisted of 750g of epoxy resin and 250g of hardener, I also went for the 90min cure as this is the first time I have ever done a boat hull, I’ve done plenty of stranded fibre cowlings/air intakes etc. where you lay a gel coat first then stranded matting which is so different to laying a fine matt on its own. I also ordered some mixing sticks and throw away brushes. First I cut the matting to the slightly oversize for one of the side skins, then loosely taped the matt to the bottom skin and checked the coverage - and checked again then fold over to the opposite side, this then leaves the surface clear to apply the resin. Mixing the resin should be done accurately, so borrow the kitchen scales and here we go. I wasn’t sure how much to mix for a side skin but 25g of resin and 7.5g of hardener looks about right. So mix well and then brush onto the side skin, then I gently lifted over the matting and laid it on the skin and gently brushed the matting down, the matting is almost sucked onto the resin so minimal brushing is required to ensure a smooth surface A previous blog said that “Less is More” how true this is, the temptation to spread the remainder of the resin on to the already adhered matt is something to be avoided, however learn by my mistake as I did just that (only in a small area on one skin) leaving rather a lot of sanding later after the resin had fully cured as it leaves a rather lumpy surface. So onward and upwards the following three surfaces were relatively easy with only minor difficulty keeping the matting in close to the 90 degree angle between the keel and skin and I had to keep going back to it pressing it in with a steel rule until the resin started to go off but minimal resin left a surface that was flat and the weave of the glass matt can be clearly seen and felt but minimal sanding is required if at all. Then a further 2 coats of resin with sanding in between will leave a smooth surface ready for final preparation of painting. The final picture is of the roof that in a previous page I said to add strength the roof would need a coat of glass to reinforce the unsupported edges –
To be continued

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 14th May 2018
Hi Michael.
I was also a bit nervous when glassing the hull, I did a few trial pieces first to test the application method and the curing time but I actually found the process very straightforward and gave excellent results. Next time I'll use the faster curing hardener now I have the technique and confidence.
I do regret not glassing the deck and superstructure as they would have benefited from a stronger surface.
If it's not too late you might want to consider insetting a piece of steel or brass on the tip of the prow on the upper strake to protect from any accidental knocks.
I managed to do that while carrying the boat through a doorway😡.
It was quite easy to repair but a bit late for me to add a reinforcing plate around the nose.
Keep up the great work.
Robbob.
Response by mturpin013 on the 14th May 2018
That looks painful, I will take your advice and do the deck and superstructure reinforcement as well as the nose. I've already done the roof and its certainly strengthened it really well.

mdlbt.com/41524
Final fitting of cabin roof skins - Posted: 3rd May 2018
Now that the internal detail of the cabin has been finalised and fixing points made for each of the panels and floor pieces (all parts of the cabin detail are to be removable) I can now finally fit the cabin roof skins. Since the leading edge has an overhang which because of the lifting design hasn’t the same framework support I have decided to reinforce the joint with stainless steel pins.to ensure a perfect fit, I made a tiny jig out of brass angle that ensured all the holes in each piece lined up. I then placed pieces of silicon sheet on the parts I really didn’t want the skins to stick to the cabin framework. Fist all the pieces were position and pinned to ensure a good fit, they were then removed adhesive applied and the skins finally placed and pinned, most of the pins will be removed when it’s dry. The centre panel has an opening for the hatch so this was put in prior to fixing. After a day’s drying it’s time to see if the whole thing works as envisaged, thankfully it does. The roof will now have to be dismantled so further work can be carried out it, will also get a covering of glass matting to add overall strength.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by BOATSHED on the 3rd May 2018
That piece of video of the cabin roof is awesome. Are you going to have it working off of the radio control like that. Are you going to fit out the cabin as well ?
Response by mturpin013 on the 4th May 2018
Radio control roof ? not sure about that but yes the cabin is already detailed see earlier in the blog and final pictures will follow when all the metalwork is completed. Roof only opens to be able to see internal detail
Response by RNinMunich on the 4th May 2018
RC roof!? What for? No equivalent in the original, not like a Rhine Schiff with retractable wheelhouse. Unless maybe to 'doff the roof' to the ladies 😉
A sort of Nautical 'Hat's off' 😁

mdlbt.com/41314
Cabin windows again - Posted: 25th Apr 2018
Having remade all the front cabin window frames I then decided to fit the acrylics into the opening (nice tight fit) all done! Or maybe not, someone then said how about “opening windows” it’s been done before. So would opening windows be a problem with water ingress? And would putting foam seals solve this problem? I’m not convinced. Having given the problem some days thought, how about going with the windows as planned which are now 1.5mm thick and inset into the surround. Then fitting an over window frame 1.0mm ply/plasticard with another thinner (1.0mm) acrylic window and hinging this above each window. This would solve the issue of water ingress and also give the appearance of opening front windows. Looking at how one other person approached this, it looks like the hinge was a brass tube across the majority of the window top and then a shorter piece the same dia tube at each end with an internal wire for rotation these short pieces are then fitted to the body of the inner window frame. These additional window frames can be added at a later stage and this doesn’t hinder the final finishing of the roof skins. So final fitting and adjustment and then pin and clamp in position the forward roof skins. When these are dry the window frames can be finally trimmed and then pinned into position and checked for fit then removed and then to each one apply the aliphatic glue and fit –pin and clamp in position

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 26th Apr 2018
Interesting solution !
What you are actually describing is otherwise known as 'secondary double glazing'...😜
Keep up the great work.
Robbob.

mdlbt.com/40257
Roof Skins - Posted: 21st Mar 2018
Having sorted the windows out, they can now wait until the detailing is finished before final fitting. The roof skins are all compound curves so they will need to be steamed and formed before fitting as they will definitely have to hold their shape as there isn’t as much to fasten them to in terms of framework. After final fitting I will glass both inner and outer faces which will ensure the shape is retained and also help strengthen them to withstand any bumps /knocks during its lifetime. I made formers out of some softwood to match each of the roof profiles. Each piece was then soaked in hot water for around 5 mins and then clamped on the formers and left to dry for a day or so.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by BOATSHED on the 26th Apr 2018
pmdevlin, the side window frames in the three pictures to you posted, WHERE did they come from. Are they home made or can you purchase them if so where from. They are nicely shaped, never seen them before.
Response by pmdevlin on the 27th Apr 2018
for some reason I cant see the pics I posted! so cant say where they came from, can you post them up?
Response by BOATSHED on the 3rd May 2018
I cannot see the pictures now. They were there when I posted that question.

mdlbt.com/40246
Cabin Windows - Posted: 21st Mar 2018
Now the cabin roof mechanism is working I have to finish all the detail in the cabin before I effectively seal the cabin with window frames and roof skins. However I thought I would check the fitting of the windows and roof skins just as a change from detailing. Because the roof is now movable it means the roof skins will need additional support. Also the windows as given were short in terms of height and the roof skins only fitted where they touched and both would need some remodelling/remaking. I decided to remake the windows out of 1.5 mm ply instead of the 1mm supplied in the kit and resize the overall dimensions and then slightly reposition the window openings. The 1.5mm will also accept the plastic windows within the opening instead of being just stuck to the inside. I forgot to mention that the front deck needs fitting before the cabin construction starts as the porthole pieces sit on top of the deck

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 21st Mar 2018
Hmmm! 'Stuck to the inside' may well actually reflect the original construction. Flush butted with the frame would make them awful susceptible to blowing in! 😲
Response by pmdevlin on the 22nd Mar 2018
Bit of trivia! Maybe something you want to consider the outermost front windows actually open by hinging at the top something I have only seen modelled once before. I decided against this on my boat due to Possible water leaks
Response by mturpin013 on the 22nd Mar 2018
The front cabin acrylics fit into the ply frames at the moment, (tight fit) now you've set me thinking. Another diversion!

mdlbt.com/39957
Cabin roof mechanism - Posted: 15th Mar 2018
As I mentioned in a previous post I want to put some detail into the cabin and in order to do this I wanted the roof to open so that the detail can be seen and also giving good access for construction and detailing. So I looked at various lifting lever systems and the one which gave greatest access and took minimal room was a simple parallel bar mechanism. I first made a card model to ensure it worked before investing a lot of work in making the real thing. I used some brass plate cut into 3 x 2mm strips and using 10BA fastenings I constructed the levers and securing plates. Before fitting the mechanism and cutting any roof trusses I tried the mechanism using the brass bars and a card roof replica to once again prove its operation. I then added further cross beams to ensure the roof frame stays stable when the roof is lifted and that the roof skins had sufficient support when closed. All through this design and make session the cabin frame was only secured by temporary pins and had and no roof skins fitted, this enabled it to be lifted off in one piece whilst working on the frame. Now the mechanism works the cabin detail can be finished before finally fitting the roof skins.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by BOATSHED on the 18th Mar 2018
I still have a 34" Raf crash tender still unbuilt that I bought back in 1994 when they released a run of 50 on the 50th anniversary of the model in the Model Boats magazine. I also have a Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works sitting in my shed. One day I will get around to building them Along with restoring my Sea Hornet, Sea Commander, Sea Queen and my Huntsman along with several other boats, including an MFA Spearfish and a Stratos Interceptor, Hydrofibre Pipedream both of which were the same company just that they had a change of name. Along with at least 3 others. I will do them sometime.
Response by mturpin013 on the 18th Mar 2018
Boatshed by name and by the size of your fleet apparently!
Response by BOATSHED on the 18th Mar 2018
I named my shed, The Boat Shed. Its a brick built building 13 ft x 10 ft. It was here when we moved here. And that's where I used my name from on here. So yes you are correct. The last 2 I bought were a RTR Proboat Miss Geeco and a Graupner Rhode Island F1 tunnel hull ARTR.

mdlbt.com/39877
Cabin detail Pt 2 - Posted: 13th Mar 2018
The next piece is what I can only describe as the dash board (what’s the nautical term?) Bridge? Anyway it’s the bit with all the knobs and levers that make it go. I chose to stick with ply construction throughout the build so will be using 1mm 3 ply. I copied all the dimensions from a cross section detail of the cabin instruments and controls and then made card models first to ensure everything fitted. I made spaces for the speed control and compass and drawn up detailed drgs of the instruments which I hope to make from 0.5mm stainless steel with back lighting of the dials and general lighting from LEDs. The cabin area will finish at the door to the galley kitchen.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 13th Mar 2018
This build just keeps getting better !!
Here's a drawing of part of the control panel that shows a little more detail and a still from the Pathe video that shows a bit more.
I hope they are helpful.
Robbob.
Response by RNinMunich on the 13th Mar 2018
Love the attention to detail and the skill 👍
BTW: that's HIGH PRAISE indeed from Robbob!
Check out his own incredibly detailed Build Blog on this site 😉
Cheers Doug 😎
Response by mturpin013 on the 14th Mar 2018
Thanks for the pictures, very helpful I'm working on the three panels now but something so small takes more time than building the main structure of the boat, however I do enjoy all aspects of the build and hopefully this idea will work out

mdlbt.com/39870
Cabin detail Pt 1 - Posted: 13th Mar 2018
I wanted to try and recreate the detail as per the available photos and drawings that I had so the first thing was to try and make the cabin have walls and a door, so previously I had cut away bulkhead B2 and extended CF2 to the bottom skin and put the door opening in. Now for the actual piece of cabin floor, the entry is slightly strange as there appears to be an inset step from the from the sick bay up into the cockpit but then it is relatively straight forward, it was made from 2mm ply. Planking was something I have never done so a lot of research was done prior to starting. I decided to use a lime wood plank with a black 0.3 black card divider (caulk) all glued with aliphatic adhesive. I found the process quite enjoyable and the results on the test piece for a first attempt were quite pleasing. I then wanted to reproduce the nailing of the planks so I devised a small tool to ensure a consistent pattern Its simply a piece of obeche with four holes, 4 brass pins and a black divider line, this is simply placed on the join line and then tapped with a light hammer and filled with the tip of a black pen. The first attempt looks slightly misaligned but proved the system worked, I have made a more accurate one for the real floor. After the planks were set it was sanded flat which unfortunately leaves the wood grain blackened by the black card dust, however using a plastic eraser it’s easily removed ready for sealing. I thought that the door opening needed some sort of finishing/dressing so I decided to manufacture a mahogany door frame and handrail around the cabin.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 13th Mar 2018
Hi Michael.
Looking forward to part 2 of this instalment, lovin' the detail 👍.
Robbob.
Response by RNinMunich on the 13th Mar 2018
I'll second that 👍👍👍
Lucky you didn't use the 'black' sand paper wet! I did once and it permanently stained the wood black, not just surface effect 😡
Since then I only use dry cabinet paper for finishing raw wood in sensitive areas.

With your extended bulkheads I'm wondering where you are going to fit 'the works'! Or is this to be a static display model?
Whatever, beautiful woodwork, salutations, Doug 😎
Response by mturpin013 on the 14th Mar 2018
It will be a working model and the power details are to follow. (don't want to give you too much at a time) the area between BH 3 and 4 will house the motor, ECS fuse box etc. I may detail the "Sick Bay" which is between B2 and B3 and batteries will be in the area BH 4 and 5 and of coarse the area that houses the hoses etc in the stern will be detailed.

mdlbt.com/39275
Foam tank grating Pt 2 - Posted: 28th Feb 2018
Now I have the cut blank material it needs to be cut into 3mm strips, this can be quite tricky as I found. As the fence was set to 3mm and the first cut was made the slice started to catch the back of the blade and knock some of the pieces off. So I needed to make sure that it was guided past the back of the blade. So as you can see I set another piece of Perspex behind the blade 3mm wide to hold the piece clear as the cut was finished.
Next a trial fit of the pieces and it works just fine. Now I need to cut pieces to the length of the foam tanks ready for assembly. I need to cut some mahogany edging and a blank panel to complete the whole assembly. I then made a small jig to hold all the pieces together as they are assembled then each joint was “set” with a tiny drop of cyno and left to fully cure. When fully set I could then sand the surface to complete the tank tops, they will be varnished at a later date.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 28th Feb 2018
Hi Michael.
Excellent work on the foam tank gratings 👍

I assume you tried to source from Modellingtimbers initially?
http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/7.html

For those that don't have the kind of tooling that you have the gratings are also available from this alternative supplier:
http://www.rbmodel.com/index.php?action=products&group=016

Their product range and prices are very good, and delivery is remarkably cheap and very quick too considering they are based in Poland.

I have sourced various bits from them for my fireboat and I can thoroughly recommend them (although they seem to be presently out of stock of the 3mm gratings 🤔)
Rob.
Response by BOATSHED on the 28th Feb 2018
I like the gratings and was thinking, I wish I could make them. It's great to see that they are available from a source already made to cut to size required. Thanks robbob.

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