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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works
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mdlbt.com/37275
The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works Print Booklet
Author: mturpin013   Posts: 34   Photos: 262   Subscribers: 11   Views: 6817   Responses: 79   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

Showing page 1 of 4   |   Jump to page: 1   2   3   4  

mdlbt.com/45039
Aft cockpit deck - Posted: 13th Aug 2018
I first cut the base material to size allowing a card thickness all round for final clearances. The lower deck has a number of features in it that need to be measured. I took dimensions from the plans and marked out the base. Again following the upper deck which has a mahogany boarder I cut and planed a further amount of 6mm x 1.5 strips of material. I started by outlining the mahogany boarders, Some years ago I made a mitring device for picture framing which has come in very handy for doing the corners. Having all the pieces cut they are then glued and temporally pinned in position until set. The next job is to prepare all the edges with black card and then measuring each plank across the width starting from the centre line. I must take into account how the planks sit against main access hatch and the battery hatch opening however, all seems to look good but until each plank is positioned and glued with its caulk divider it’s difficult to tell. When preparing each plank I first cut each piece oversize with wire cutters then using the disc sander I trim square one end, then place in position and mark for final length and finish again on the disc sander giving each plank a nice push fit
Because lime planking varies in colour across a batch I numbered each plank across the deck varying the pattern of colours as I cut each to length. Next I cut a number of card pieces to length and start to glue (using Aliphatic glue), plank, followed by card filler across the half width, then repeat the other side.
Finally the battery hatch and main access hatch are treated in the same manner.
Next comes the finishing , I use a very fine grade on my belt sander (I attach a block on the underside of the main access deck to control the sanding process) to remove the majority of excess irregularities followed by an orbital sander for a fine finish. If there is any staining by the black card residue I simply remove it with a pencil rubber. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. Final finishing will be done as a complete assembly. Preparation of the side panels is the next process before final assembly

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/43973
Rear Deck assembly –(upper tow deck) - Posted: 20th Jul 2018
I propose to make the rear deck and the deck which carries the tow hook all as a complete piece that lifts out in one. Although its going to be in one piece the full assembly still has to be made as separate components so first job is to cut the individual panels again using the card inserts to make sure the end assembly has clearance. The tow hook deck is the first piece to be dealt with and epoxied as a sub assembly. Having completed the wooden frame I then took a break and did some more planking, first a mahogany boarder and then glue a black card calk around its inside edge, next cut and sand each plank to fit in the space left, these could then be glued in place with a black card calk between each plank. After a period of drying I sanded the whole surface level. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. When the rest of the subassemblies are complete they will all be lacquered together before final assembly.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Ianh on the 5th Aug 2018
Hi Gents
I have found this build fascinating including robbob's build. I have one these to build but will be doing an Aerokits Sea Commander first. As these designs go back to the 60's and were designed by Les Rowe ( I know I had one with an ED Racer in it.) So I will be referring back to this quite a bit. Will start a build blog on it. Shouldn't be to difficult busy changing my model engineering workshop to build boats. Model Engineering too expensive now boiler for my Springbok cost close GBP 1 300.00 alpne 😊😊. Trouble is I am importing all parts from UK etc. Between royal snail mail and SA post office I need to order any requirements in advance.
Response by mturpin013 on the 7th Aug 2018
I'm glad your enjoying the build and how strange, I also had a 36" model crash tender in the early sixties with a marine ED Racer we used to sail on Roundhay Park lake in Leeds but regrettably we sold it, needed the money for other things back then.

mdlbt.com/43707
Cabin roofs - Posted: 14th Jul 2018
Theoretically this should be a very straight forward process and a change from rubbing down the hull so let’s look at the instructions – what instructions! First of all fit some thin card to the sides of the cabin walls to allow for a clearance fit (cornflakes packet) then some minor trimming of the spars to give an exact ,(not tight) fit across the side supports, I decided to pin each of the parts together as well as epoxy in the joints. I always find the best approach is to use a jig to drill pilot holes for the pins ensuring that the pins do not split the wood and the construction is accurate. The frame is then glued up and placed back in the boat and left to dry next job is to fit the corner strengthening pieces, the easiest way I found was to put a card support for the corners to rest on whilst they set still in the cabin structure. Looking forward I had decided to retain the cabin lids with Neodymium magnets so I machined a slot in the corner pieces underside to house the magnets, to be fitted at a later date.

Next job is to fit the roof skins which again will be pinned using the 0.7mm brass pins. The roof skins are now epoxied in place so I need to mark out the position of the secondary panels. Looking at the pieces and the instructions the spacer frames seem to be the same size but I was sure I’d read somewhere that these overhung by 2-3mm, reading Robs blog conformed this to be the case. So some trimming required before fitting and marking out the appropriate position then being glued into position.
The mid cabin was assembled in exactly the same way

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/42877
Fibreglass the hull- continued - Posted: 18th Jun 2018
Now the Chine rubbing strakes are fitted, dry and filled and I have attended to the minor lumps and bumps the next job is to give another coat of resin, taking the issues of the first application into account I intend to apply a thin coat, this has the effect of filling in the pattern of the glass cloth.
Another two days have passed and it’s time to do some rubbing down. I have found that the surface is very hard, more so than I recall some of the other fibre glass projects I have done but these have been using Polyester resin. It’s a first for epoxy, so is epoxy a better choice than Polyester? According to my mini research –


 Epoxy is more versatile
 Epoxy has fewer fumes
 Epoxy is stronger
 Epoxy shrinks less

Conclusion
Epoxy is the better choice for repairing/covering either wooden hulls or repairing fiberglass boats. It has excellent adhesive qualities, wets out fiberglass fabrics and it is tough. It has great thin film cure characteristics, cures in cool temperatures.
After the first coat I wasn’t 100 % happy with the finish but I just thought that some dust had landed on the surface before the resin had dried, (this was proved not to be dust but because of the matting pattern still been visible it disguised the real problem) however this was easily sanded out with wet & dry. Now the hull and deck were looking really smooth with very little sign of the matting pattern it was time to give a final coat. I had decided to coat both the deck and the hull in one go so I mixed enough resin to do the lot. Starting with the deck I started to apply the resin but to may horror it started to pin prick all over the deck surface, panic, panic what was causing this? So was it the brush which I had previously washed out with cellulose thinners after applying the last batch of resin. I decided to remove the resin and use a new brush (I had 90 mins cure time to do this) so cleaning of with paper towel and finally with a wipe with thinners I started to apply resin again – but it happened again as I sat in despair I looked into the pot of resin wondering where to go next when I saw a film on the top of the remaining resin It was then I noticed a ridge in the cups side. It was the wax coating that had melted into the resin and subsequently appeared as pin pricks in the newly applied surface. At this realisation I removed all the resin again and took a breather hoping I had found the problem.
Another day and a light rub down of the deck to make sure the surface is ready to receive its final coat. Resin weighed (in a glass container this time) and well mixed I started to apply again and fortunately it was OK and all surfaces were coated.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/42832
Chine rubbing strakes - Posted: 17th Jun 2018
As the hull glass matting is really dry and has had some minor filling done it’s time to fit the chine rubbing strakes. which have been in the jig now for some days and consisted of a two dimensional curvature jig. In order to make sure the strakes were equally balanced on each side I made a cardboard template that followed the Chine stringers line and rested on the Gunwhale rubbing strakes, having drawn a line on the port side I flipped the template over and drew a line on the starboard side giving a perfectly equal curve on each side So now to prepare them for fitting. The jig had made a curve that was a really good fit without much spring. I decided to use some very small brass pins (0.5dia x 10mm long) to hold them whilst the epoxy sets. I pre drilled the whole length of the strake and lightly inserted pins along its length, then applied the epoxy and started to fix from the bow and followed the pencil line back to the stern. This was repeated on the other side, when set there was some minor filling to be done/filling pin holes.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/42317
Glassing the deck - Posted: 31st May 2018
Since I had been finishing the Gunwhale rubbing strakes and had the boat right side up and I was going on holiday for a few days I decide to glass the deck this would give the deck time to set. So some fine filling and then cut the matting to shape. Again I put a light coat of resin onto the deck then allowed the matting to sink into the resin, a minimal amount of brushing is required and then its left to harden overnight. The resin is now sufficiently hardened after two days so before I go away I can apply another light coat of resin which fills the matting pattern very easily - a week away now will allow the resin to harden fully.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/41960
Gunwhale rubbing strakes - Posted: 21st May 2018
Gunwhale rubbing strakes
As these pieces will be under stress they need to be steamed into shape prior to fitting so out with the wallpaper stripper and modified tube (1/4 BSP fitting in the bottom of an old piece of IKEA cloths rail).For the gunwhale strakes I used the same former as I used for the stringers so 20 mins in the steamer then into the jig for 2 days drying. The chine rubbing strakes will need a different jig but this time a left and right hand version as not only do they bend round but also up at the bow. I was however disappointed with the quality of the 3/16 square obeche as the grain was nearly at 45 degrees to its length – it snapped before I started to bend it, just pushing it into the jig I bought some better pieces from the local model shop.
I temporally fitted the gunwhale rubbing strake slightly proud of the deck level in order to drill all the pin holes then remove and mix up some epoxy, coat the length and hook into the brass bow and start tapping in the pins along the length of the boat, repeat on the port side.
Chine rubbing strakes are still in the jig!

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/41924
Rubbing stakes - Posted: 20th May 2018
Before I do the final coats of epoxy the rubbing stakes need to be fitted but then Robbob pointed out the vulnerability of the bow particularly when transporting through doorways. I decided to take that advice and make a brass bow bumper, this will not be visible when finished but will stop any structural damage if the bow is hit, it was screwed and epoxied in position. The design also incorporates a location for the rubbing strakes holding them in position when fitting.
Thanks Robbob

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 20th May 2018
Impressive.....
Nicely engineered and looks quite substantial 👍👍, hopefully you can blend it into the rubbing strakes to be virtually invisible.
Well worth the effort to incorporate at this stage, I just wish I had done so myself 😭.
I'm glad that you can benefit from my bad experience.
That's what this forum is all about 😁.
Great work as always.
Rob

mdlbt.com/41743
Fibreglass the hull - Posted: 13th May 2018
I purchased as recommended by Robbob the fibreglass package which consisted of 750g of epoxy resin and 250g of hardener, I also went for the 90min cure as this is the first time I have ever done a boat hull, I’ve done plenty of stranded fibre cowlings/air intakes etc. where you lay a gel coat first then stranded matting which is so different to laying a fine matt on its own. I also ordered some mixing sticks and throw away brushes. First I cut the matting to the slightly oversize for one of the side skins, then loosely taped the matt to the bottom skin and checked the coverage - and checked again then fold over to the opposite side, this then leaves the surface clear to apply the resin. Mixing the resin should be done accurately, so borrow the kitchen scales and here we go. I wasn’t sure how much to mix for a side skin but 25g of resin and 7.5g of hardener looks about right. So mix well and then brush onto the side skin, then I gently lifted over the matting and laid it on the skin and gently brushed the matting down, the matting is almost sucked onto the resin so minimal brushing is required to ensure a smooth surface A previous blog said that “Less is More” how true this is, the temptation to spread the remainder of the resin on to the already adhered matt is something to be avoided, however learn by my mistake as I did just that (only in a small area on one skin) leaving rather a lot of sanding later after the resin had fully cured as it leaves a rather lumpy surface. So onward and upwards the following three surfaces were relatively easy with only minor difficulty keeping the matting in close to the 90 degree angle between the keel and skin and I had to keep going back to it pressing it in with a steel rule until the resin started to go off but minimal resin left a surface that was flat and the weave of the glass matt can be clearly seen and felt but minimal sanding is required if at all. Then a further 2 coats of resin with sanding in between will leave a smooth surface ready for final preparation of painting. The final picture is of the roof that in a previous page I said to add strength the roof would need a coat of glass to reinforce the unsupported edges –
To be continued

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 14th May 2018
Hi Michael.
I was also a bit nervous when glassing the hull, I did a few trial pieces first to test the application method and the curing time but I actually found the process very straightforward and gave excellent results. Next time I'll use the faster curing hardener now I have the technique and confidence.
I do regret not glassing the deck and superstructure as they would have benefited from a stronger surface.
If it's not too late you might want to consider insetting a piece of steel or brass on the tip of the prow on the upper strake to protect from any accidental knocks.
I managed to do that while carrying the boat through a doorway😡.
It was quite easy to repair but a bit late for me to add a reinforcing plate around the nose.
Keep up the great work.
Robbob.
Response by mturpin013 on the 14th May 2018
That looks painful, I will take your advice and do the deck and superstructure reinforcement as well as the nose. I've already done the roof and its certainly strengthened it really well.

mdlbt.com/41524
Final fitting of cabin roof skins - Posted: 3rd May 2018
Now that the internal detail of the cabin has been finalised and fixing points made for each of the panels and floor pieces (all parts of the cabin detail are to be removable) I can now finally fit the cabin roof skins. Since the leading edge has an overhang which because of the lifting design hasn’t the same framework support I have decided to reinforce the joint with stainless steel pins.to ensure a perfect fit, I made a tiny jig out of brass angle that ensured all the holes in each piece lined up. I then placed pieces of silicon sheet on the parts I really didn’t want the skins to stick to the cabin framework. Fist all the pieces were position and pinned to ensure a good fit, they were then removed adhesive applied and the skins finally placed and pinned, most of the pins will be removed when it’s dry. The centre panel has an opening for the hatch so this was put in prior to fixing. After a day’s drying it’s time to see if the whole thing works as envisaged, thankfully it does. The roof will now have to be dismantled so further work can be carried out it, will also get a covering of glass matting to add overall strength.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by BOATSHED on the 3rd May 2018
That piece of video of the cabin roof is awesome. Are you going to have it working off of the radio control like that. Are you going to fit out the cabin as well ?
Response by mturpin013 on the 4th May 2018
Radio control roof ? not sure about that but yes the cabin is already detailed see earlier in the blog and final pictures will follow when all the metalwork is completed. Roof only opens to be able to see internal detail
Response by RNinMunich on the 4th May 2018
RC roof!? What for? No equivalent in the original, not like a Rhine Schiff with retractable wheelhouse. Unless maybe to 'doff the roof' to the ladies 😉
A sort of Nautical 'Hat's off' 😁

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