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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works
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mdlbt.com/37275
The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works Print Booklet
Author: mturpin013   Posts: 31   Photos: 243   Subscribers: 10   Views: 5166   Responses: 72   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

Showing page 1 of 4   |   Jump to page: 1   2   3   4  

mdlbt.com/42877
Fibreglass the hull- continued - Posted: 18th Jun 2018
Now the Chine rubbing strakes are fitted, dry and filled and I have attended to the minor lumps and bumps the next job is to give another coat of resin, taking the issues of the first application into account I intend to apply a thin coat, this has the effect of filling in the pattern of the glass cloth.
Another two days have passed and it’s time to do some rubbing down. I have found that the surface is very hard, more so than I recall some of the other fibre glass projects I have done but these have been using Polyester resin. It’s a first for epoxy, so is epoxy a better choice than Polyester? According to my mini research –


 Epoxy is more versatile
 Epoxy has fewer fumes
 Epoxy is stronger
 Epoxy shrinks less

Conclusion
Epoxy is the better choice for repairing/covering either wooden hulls or repairing fiberglass boats. It has excellent adhesive qualities, wets out fiberglass fabrics and it is tough. It has great thin film cure characteristics, cures in cool temperatures.
After the first coat I wasn’t 100 % happy with the finish but I just thought that some dust had landed on the surface before the resin had dried, (this was proved not to be dust but because of the matting pattern still been visible it disguised the real problem) however this was easily sanded out with wet & dry. Now the hull and deck were looking really smooth with very little sign of the matting pattern it was time to give a final coat. I had decided to coat both the deck and the hull in one go so I mixed enough resin to do the lot. Starting with the deck I started to apply the resin but to may horror it started to pin prick all over the deck surface, panic, panic what was causing this? So was it the brush which I had previously washed out with cellulose thinners after applying the last batch of resin. I decided to remove the resin and use a new brush (I had 90 mins cure time to do this) so cleaning of with paper towel and finally with a wipe with thinners I started to apply resin again – but it happened again as I sat in despair I looked into the pot of resin wondering where to go next when I saw a film on the top of the remaining resin It was then I noticed a ridge in the cups side. It was the wax coating that had melted into the resin and subsequently appeared as pin pricks in the newly applied surface. At this realisation I removed all the resin again and took a breather hoping I had found the problem.
Another day and a light rub down of the deck to make sure the surface is ready to receive its final coat. Resin weighed (in a glass container this time) and well mixed I started to apply again and fortunately it was OK and all surfaces were coated.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/42832
Chine rubbing strakes - Posted: 17th Jun 2018
As the hull glass matting is really dry and has had some minor filling done it’s time to fit the chine rubbing strakes. which have been in the jig now for some days and consisted of a two dimensional curvature jig. In order to make sure the strakes were equally balanced on each side I made a cardboard template that followed the Chine stringers line and rested on the Gunwhale rubbing strakes, having drawn a line on the port side I flipped the template over and drew a line on the starboard side giving a perfectly equal curve on each side So now to prepare them for fitting. The jig had made a curve that was a really good fit without much spring. I decided to use some very small brass pins (0.5dia x 10mm long) to hold them whilst the epoxy sets. I pre drilled the whole length of the strake and lightly inserted pins along its length, then applied the epoxy and started to fix from the bow and followed the pencil line back to the stern. This was repeated on the other side, when set there was some minor filling to be done/filling pin holes.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/42317
Glassing the deck - Posted: 31st May 2018
Since I had been finishing the Gunwhale rubbing strakes and had the boat right side up and I was going on holiday for a few days I decide to glass the deck this would give the deck time to set. So some fine filling and then cut the matting to shape. Again I put a light coat of resin onto the deck then allowed the matting to sink into the resin, a minimal amount of brushing is required and then its left to harden overnight. The resin is now sufficiently hardened after two days so before I go away I can apply another light coat of resin which fills the matting pattern very easily - a week away now will allow the resin to harden fully.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/41960
Gunwhale rubbing strakes - Posted: 21st May 2018
Gunwhale rubbing strakes
As these pieces will be under stress they need to be steamed into shape prior to fitting so out with the wallpaper stripper and modified tube (1/4 BSP fitting in the bottom of an old piece of IKEA cloths rail).For the gunwhale strakes I used the same former as I used for the stringers so 20 mins in the steamer then into the jig for 2 days drying. The chine rubbing strakes will need a different jig but this time a left and right hand version as not only do they bend round but also up at the bow. I was however disappointed with the quality of the 3/16 square obeche as the grain was nearly at 45 degrees to its length – it snapped before I started to bend it, just pushing it into the jig I bought some better pieces from the local model shop.
I temporally fitted the gunwhale rubbing strake slightly proud of the deck level in order to drill all the pin holes then remove and mix up some epoxy, coat the length and hook into the brass bow and start tapping in the pins along the length of the boat, repeat on the port side.
Chine rubbing strakes are still in the jig!

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/41924
Rubbing stakes - Posted: 20th May 2018
Before I do the final coats of epoxy the rubbing stakes need to be fitted but then Robbob pointed out the vulnerability of the bow particularly when transporting through doorways. I decided to take that advice and make a brass bow bumper, this will not be visible when finished but will stop any structural damage if the bow is hit, it was screwed and epoxied in position. The design also incorporates a location for the rubbing strakes holding them in position when fitting.
Thanks Robbob

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 20th May 2018
Impressive.....
Nicely engineered and looks quite substantial 👍👍, hopefully you can blend it into the rubbing strakes to be virtually invisible.
Well worth the effort to incorporate at this stage, I just wish I had done so myself 😭.
I'm glad that you can benefit from my bad experience.
That's what this forum is all about 😁.
Great work as always.
Rob

mdlbt.com/41743
Fibreglass the hull - Posted: 13th May 2018
I purchased as recommended by Robbob the fibreglass package which consisted of 750g of epoxy resin and 250g of hardener, I also went for the 90min cure as this is the first time I have ever done a boat hull, I’ve done plenty of stranded fibre cowlings/air intakes etc. where you lay a gel coat first then stranded matting which is so different to laying a fine matt on its own. I also ordered some mixing sticks and throw away brushes. First I cut the matting to the slightly oversize for one of the side skins, then loosely taped the matt to the bottom skin and checked the coverage - and checked again then fold over to the opposite side, this then leaves the surface clear to apply the resin. Mixing the resin should be done accurately, so borrow the kitchen scales and here we go. I wasn’t sure how much to mix for a side skin but 25g of resin and 7.5g of hardener looks about right. So mix well and then brush onto the side skin, then I gently lifted over the matting and laid it on the skin and gently brushed the matting down, the matting is almost sucked onto the resin so minimal brushing is required to ensure a smooth surface A previous blog said that “Less is More” how true this is, the temptation to spread the remainder of the resin on to the already adhered matt is something to be avoided, however learn by my mistake as I did just that (only in a small area on one skin) leaving rather a lot of sanding later after the resin had fully cured as it leaves a rather lumpy surface. So onward and upwards the following three surfaces were relatively easy with only minor difficulty keeping the matting in close to the 90 degree angle between the keel and skin and I had to keep going back to it pressing it in with a steel rule until the resin started to go off but minimal resin left a surface that was flat and the weave of the glass matt can be clearly seen and felt but minimal sanding is required if at all. Then a further 2 coats of resin with sanding in between will leave a smooth surface ready for final preparation of painting. The final picture is of the roof that in a previous page I said to add strength the roof would need a coat of glass to reinforce the unsupported edges –
To be continued

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 14th May 2018
Hi Michael.
I was also a bit nervous when glassing the hull, I did a few trial pieces first to test the application method and the curing time but I actually found the process very straightforward and gave excellent results. Next time I'll use the faster curing hardener now I have the technique and confidence.
I do regret not glassing the deck and superstructure as they would have benefited from a stronger surface.
If it's not too late you might want to consider insetting a piece of steel or brass on the tip of the prow on the upper strake to protect from any accidental knocks.
I managed to do that while carrying the boat through a doorway😡.
It was quite easy to repair but a bit late for me to add a reinforcing plate around the nose.
Keep up the great work.
Robbob.
Response by mturpin013 on the 14th May 2018
That looks painful, I will take your advice and do the deck and superstructure reinforcement as well as the nose. I've already done the roof and its certainly strengthened it really well.

mdlbt.com/41524
Final fitting of cabin roof skins - Posted: 3rd May 2018
Now that the internal detail of the cabin has been finalised and fixing points made for each of the panels and floor pieces (all parts of the cabin detail are to be removable) I can now finally fit the cabin roof skins. Since the leading edge has an overhang which because of the lifting design hasn’t the same framework support I have decided to reinforce the joint with stainless steel pins.to ensure a perfect fit, I made a tiny jig out of brass angle that ensured all the holes in each piece lined up. I then placed pieces of silicon sheet on the parts I really didn’t want the skins to stick to the cabin framework. Fist all the pieces were position and pinned to ensure a good fit, they were then removed adhesive applied and the skins finally placed and pinned, most of the pins will be removed when it’s dry. The centre panel has an opening for the hatch so this was put in prior to fixing. After a day’s drying it’s time to see if the whole thing works as envisaged, thankfully it does. The roof will now have to be dismantled so further work can be carried out it, will also get a covering of glass matting to add overall strength.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by BOATSHED on the 3rd May 2018
That piece of video of the cabin roof is awesome. Are you going to have it working off of the radio control like that. Are you going to fit out the cabin as well ?
Response by mturpin013 on the 4th May 2018
Radio control roof ? not sure about that but yes the cabin is already detailed see earlier in the blog and final pictures will follow when all the metalwork is completed. Roof only opens to be able to see internal detail
Response by RNinMunich on the 4th May 2018
RC roof!? What for? No equivalent in the original, not like a Rhine Schiff with retractable wheelhouse. Unless maybe to 'doff the roof' to the ladies 😉
A sort of Nautical 'Hat's off' 😁

mdlbt.com/41314
Cabin windows again - Posted: 25th Apr 2018
Having remade all the front cabin window frames I then decided to fit the acrylics into the opening (nice tight fit) all done! Or maybe not, someone then said how about “opening windows” it’s been done before. So would opening windows be a problem with water ingress? And would putting foam seals solve this problem? I’m not convinced. Having given the problem some days thought, how about going with the windows as planned which are now 1.5mm thick and inset into the surround. Then fitting an over window frame 1.0mm ply/plasticard with another thinner (1.0mm) acrylic window and hinging this above each window. This would solve the issue of water ingress and also give the appearance of opening front windows. Looking at how one other person approached this, it looks like the hinge was a brass tube across the majority of the window top and then a shorter piece the same dia tube at each end with an internal wire for rotation these short pieces are then fitted to the body of the inner window frame. These additional window frames can be added at a later stage and this doesn’t hinder the final finishing of the roof skins. So final fitting and adjustment and then pin and clamp in position the forward roof skins. When these are dry the window frames can be finally trimmed and then pinned into position and checked for fit then removed and then to each one apply the aliphatic glue and fit –pin and clamp in position

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by robbob on the 26th Apr 2018
Interesting solution !
What you are actually describing is otherwise known as 'secondary double glazing'...😜
Keep up the great work.
Robbob.

mdlbt.com/40257
Roof Skins - Posted: 21st Mar 2018
Having sorted the windows out, they can now wait until the detailing is finished before final fitting. The roof skins are all compound curves so they will need to be steamed and formed before fitting as they will definitely have to hold their shape as there isn’t as much to fasten them to in terms of framework. After final fitting I will glass both inner and outer faces which will ensure the shape is retained and also help strengthen them to withstand any bumps /knocks during its lifetime. I made formers out of some softwood to match each of the roof profiles. Each piece was then soaked in hot water for around 5 mins and then clamped on the formers and left to dry for a day or so.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by BOATSHED on the 26th Apr 2018
pmdevlin, the side window frames in the three pictures to you posted, WHERE did they come from. Are they home made or can you purchase them if so where from. They are nicely shaped, never seen them before.
Response by pmdevlin on the 27th Apr 2018
for some reason I cant see the pics I posted! so cant say where they came from, can you post them up?
Response by BOATSHED on the 3rd May 2018
I cannot see the pictures now. They were there when I posted that question.

mdlbt.com/40246
Cabin Windows - Posted: 21st Mar 2018
Now the cabin roof mechanism is working I have to finish all the detail in the cabin before I effectively seal the cabin with window frames and roof skins. However I thought I would check the fitting of the windows and roof skins just as a change from detailing. Because the roof is now movable it means the roof skins will need additional support. Also the windows as given were short in terms of height and the roof skins only fitted where they touched and both would need some remodelling/remaking. I decided to remake the windows out of 1.5 mm ply instead of the 1mm supplied in the kit and resize the overall dimensions and then slightly reposition the window openings. The 1.5mm will also accept the plastic windows within the opening instead of being just stuck to the inside. I forgot to mention that the front deck needs fitting before the cabin construction starts as the porthole pieces sit on top of the deck

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 21st Mar 2018
Hmmm! 'Stuck to the inside' may well actually reflect the original construction. Flush butted with the frame would make them awful susceptible to blowing in! 😲
Response by pmdevlin on the 22nd Mar 2018
Bit of trivia! Maybe something you want to consider the outermost front windows actually open by hinging at the top something I have only seen modelled once before. I decided against this on my boat due to Possible water leaks
Response by mturpin013 on the 22nd Mar 2018
The front cabin acrylics fit into the ply frames at the moment, (tight fit) now you've set me thinking. Another diversion!

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