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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Brooklyn Tugboat
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mdlbt.com/38209
Brooklyn Tugboat Print Booklet
Author: figtree7nts   Posts: 74   Photos: 106   Subscribers: 4   Views: 6427   Responses: 187   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

Showing page 6 of 8   |   Jump to page: 1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8  

mdlbt.com/39015
Hull Frames - Posted: 22nd Feb 2018
OK, what is it they say.
Measure trice cut once!
Well after making the markings for the frames.
Pieces of 1/8" squared spruce.
Used as simulated hull frames.
I noticed the marks were off.
So had to remark in black marker.
to tell where the new marks are going to be!
Luckily after the model is painted.
you won't see the marks.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/39013
Stern Seam! - Posted: 22nd Feb 2018
I had to bondo the seam on her stern.
And around the rudder tube.
Sanded it down to make it look flush!
Also had to bondo her stern as well.
Her stern looks nice and even know!

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Colin H. on the 22nd Feb 2018
It's looking good so far. Please excuse my ignorance, but what is bondo. I usually use p38 filler or polyester resin for such jobs, is this the same. Keep seeing bondo mentioned so just had to ask, I'm only a beginner of fifty plus years of modeling. I'll get there one day.
Response by RNinMunich on the 22nd Feb 2018
Also a body filler - American P38 / Plastic Padding apparently Colin 😉
Response by figtree7nts on the 23rd Feb 2018
Hi Colin,

Bondo is just automotive body filler!
It's made by 3M corp.
The Folks at Dumas swear by the stuff.
It's ok smells a bit while it's drying though!
Also there's a lot of elbow grease needed as well. 😲

mdlbt.com/38948
The Bulwark! - Posted: 21st Feb 2018
The Bulwark is reinforced using 1/8" ABS plastic.
It adds thickness and makes the boat more rigid!
Also you have to put 1/8" squared wood pieces!
This adds more thickness to the Bulwark.
Gives it more to grab on to when you go to glue the caprail on!

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/38943
Bondo the keel! - Posted: 20th Feb 2018
The Keel on the Brooklyn.
Has a gap from where it meets the hull.
It's recommended to use Bondo.
Which is a auto mobile body filler!
There is a lot of sanding.
Required after you Bondo the hull.

When I built Serenity aka Jersey City by Dumas.
I remember having to do the same procedure!
The folks at Dumas. Say the Bondo won't crack.
Well mine did, it was a small crack.
which I used zap-a-gap on!

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 21st Feb 2018
Mornin' Ed, Not surprised that this is your last Dumas kit🤔
I recently bought the Deans Marine kit of HMS Manxman, a WW2 fast cruiser / minelayer, 1:96 53". It has a superb fibreglass hull that I can't fault and hundreds of cast resin, brass and white metal bits n pieces 😲
On the other hand the drawing supplied is a bit limited, but no sweat as I have several detail photos of the original anyway😉 Rather that way round than like Dumas!
Attached are a few pics from the build instructions (there are hundreds on a CD). Good luck with the rest of your build👍 😎
Response by figtree7nts on the 21st Feb 2018
That is a great looking build!
Response by RNinMunich on the 21st Feb 2018
Yep, looks like it'll keep me off the streets for while 😉

mdlbt.com/38934
Rudder Post in place! - Posted: 20th Feb 2018
First I had to draw lines from.
One corner to the next.
This was done to get the center of the block!
But as I don't have a drill press.
The hole I drilled is a fraction off!
The tube that goes through the block.
Comes out of the hull in the right location! 😁
I then glued it in place.
And ran some polyester resin to hold the block in position.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


mdlbt.com/38920
Make shift Washer! - Posted: 20th Feb 2018
It's said necessity is the mother of invention.
Well, I looked at the top of zap-a-gap bottle top.
Saw it was shaped like a 1/6" nylon washer.
Drilled through the center and presto!
One nylon thrust washer, made up!
As soon as I have a chance.
I'll go to the local Hardware store.
And I will get some stainless steal washers!
Thank you, all for your valuable in put.
It is well appreciated!

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by figtree7nts on the 20th Feb 2018
Stainless Steel Washers,😉
Response by jarvo on the 20th Feb 2018
HI Ed, Just looked closely at your propshaft, if you can knock out the bearing cut a little of the end of the tube and refit the bearing, that will increase the clearance to the rudder without removing the shaft tube, good luck, carefully protect the hull from saw cuts.

Mark
Response by figtree7nts on the 20th Feb 2018
Hi Mark,

Thanks, I tried knocking out the bearing wouldn't budge.
So, I'll use a thin nylon washer for now!

mdlbt.com/38883
Test fit the Rudder! - Posted: 19th Feb 2018
The rudder is in place!
I saw where Dumas used a cast skeg for the rudder!
I think they should have kept using the cast skeg!
Now they give a strip of brass. that you must bend to shape.
And drill into the keel! I don't like this at all. should be ok I hope!

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by figtree7nts on the 20th Feb 2018
Hi Rowen,
I will have to take a trip.
to the local hardware store.
See if I can find something, washer wise!
Response by RNinMunich on the 20th Feb 2018
Mornin' All,
Hi Dave, yep, I thought about that as well but wondered if the prop tips might then get too close to the sweep of the keel to the hull!
My experience with brass washers on rotating parts is that they wear much faster, and if you file them they can themselves end up working like files🤔 I would go for stainless.
Rowen: basically agree about the nylon, although we are not talking power boat here so it shouldn't be too stressed.😉
Happy shopping Ed.
Cheers Doug 😎
Response by figtree7nts on the 20th Feb 2018
Hi Dave
I know what my problem is.
I was suppose to place the prop shaft.
1/4 out of the hull, I have accidently placed it
5 1/6th of an inch!
So the shaft is a 1/16th to far out!
There is no way I can correct this at this point....
I placed 2oz of resin towards the stern.
To hold the prop shaft in place.
And made sure no water gets in the hull!
From know on I will measure everything twice!

mdlbt.com/38863
Completed Rudder - Posted: 18th Feb 2018
So, the rudder is completed!
It's made up of thin ABS plastic with a brass core.
The rudder has to be cut out of a sheet of ABS plastic
You are suppose to laminate the rudder.
I found this task a bit difficult.
Because both halfs are the same size!
What the folks at Dumas recommend.
Is to overlay one half over the other!
Then glue the seam, with out gluing your fingers!
It's mentioned that the pilot house has a thin film.
You must remove prier to assembly
Well, I found out the hard way so does the Rudder!
Dave M, I will be ordering a new rudder and rudder post.
once I have a better torch.
I will do a better job at soldering the rudder together!😉

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Dave M on the 19th Feb 2018
If you don't knock the rudder on something it may be good for some time.
I have used plastic padding (car body repair) to join two plastic mouldings together in the past. I used a shaft and drilled two 1mm holes within the rudder area, put some 1mm brass rod in the holes sticking out each side then placed the two mouldings either side with plenty of plastic padding in between. Leave to dry overnight then clean up the edges the next day.
Might save you having to solder!
Response by figtree7nts on the 19th Feb 2018
Hi Dave M,

The pond I go to is quite clear of debris!
I shouldn't run in to anything I hope!
Thanks for the Idea! about the padding and brass rods!
I just wish Dumas would have made the rudder already made!
But, like I said I'll order the rudder parts. and give it another go.👍

mdlbt.com/38846
Building the Rudder! - Posted: 18th Feb 2018
Decided to Work on the rudder.
Bit of soldering nothing major!
Gluing the outer shell of the rudder is the challenge!
Not exactly a neat soldering job, but it's not going to be seen!

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 18th Feb 2018
Bon chance with the new bits Ed - hope they don't get 'lost in the post' 👍
Response by Colin H. on the 18th Feb 2018
Hi Ed, on the next you could try to slit the rudder stem and do it in one piece I've done this a few times in the past and especially good when not able to solder I've riveted instead, using 1.2 mm brass rod as rivets. Hope this helps, Colin.
Response by figtree7nts on the 19th Feb 2018
Hi Colin H.
I would have rivets, But did have enough copper wire!
Then the soldering iron I had was a torch!
So couldn't create enough heat!
I plan on redoing the rudder at a later date👍

mdlbt.com/38828
False Keel in place! - Posted: 18th Feb 2018
After grinding the flange that's 1/4" high.
Took all day long! grind here, sand there!
False keel is now in place. A bit of bondo to fill the gaps!
Lots of sanding to do! there's a big difference between the fiberglass and the ABS. Lots more work to do on the ABS hull!

Attached Photos - Click To View Large


Showing page 6 of 8   |   Jump to page: 1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8