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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion)
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mdlbt.com/38673
Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) Print Booklet
Author: Skydive130   Posts: 28   Photos: 121   Subscribers: 3   Views: 4013   Responses: 75   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

Showing page 3 of 3   |   Jump to page: 1   2   3  

mdlbt.com/39221
Planking done and other stuff’ - Posted: 27th Feb 2018
So, after a weekend away with “she who must be obeyed” have managed to do some more over the last couple of days before nights tonight. Planking is now completed, just needs external shaping, sanding and filler before glass clothing.

Have cut holes and added all the fixing points for the prop shafts and made the motor mount. All square and inline. Prop shafts won’t be fitted properly until I’ve clothed the outside. Stuffing boxes will be epoxy and isopon P38 fixed inside the little boxes I’ve made where they exit the hull for added strength.

Last job today was to give the inside of the hull a good dose of resin to seal it all up.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Skydive130 on the 27th Feb 2018
Hi Gerry, I’m possibly not the right person to ask, especially if you’re considering 3 motors? My best advice is to make your own post asking other more experienced boat builders to advise. I’m fairly new to boats moving over from aircraft.
Response by Gerry1 on the 27th Feb 2018
OK thanks so much
Response by RNinMunich on the 27th Feb 2018
Exactamente Skydive! 👍😉

mdlbt.com/39080
Planking almost very nearly finished! - Posted: 23rd Feb 2018
Finished nights this morning, had a couple of hours kip then thrashed some more planking! Stern end finished, main hull finished, just the bow uppers to put in. Once completed, will get some pva squeegee’d into the inside joints between planks and formers then will give the inside a couple of coats of resin. Once that’s done, rough sand the hull and fill the remaining gaps and blemishes with wood filler before final sanding and touch filling prior to glass clothing.

Before I glass cloth, shall install prop shafts, motor mounts, motors, install decks then onwards with clothing.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Bobatsea on the 24th Feb 2018
Looking good
I set the rudder shaft the same as you,...

mdlbt.com/38958
Planking near finished - Posted: 21st Feb 2018
Have added a few more planks over the last couple of days before and after bed as on nights. Gaps should be closed by Friday? Have also marked exit points for prop shafts and marked and drilled rudder mounting holes.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 21st Feb 2018
Aha! Moonlighting methinks 😉

mdlbt.com/38880
Planking progress - Posted: 19th Feb 2018
Over the past couple of days, planking is moving on. Working on 2 planks per side per day allowing overnight setting time before moving on to next row. Starting nights tonight, so will try an add a couple of planks each day before bed!

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 20th Feb 2018
So far so good 👍 I admire your patience.
Thinks! If you are on nights again you can carry on planking (sounds vaguely familiar! Sid James & Kenneth Williams & co? 😁) while twiddling your thumbs waiting for the Russkies to attack😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Response by Skydive130 on the 20th Feb 2018
I could plank on nights, have done before ha ha! However, managed to get another 2 rows on before and 2 after my day kip, the gaps are closing! Photo update tomorrow.

mdlbt.com/38814
Formers in-planking starts! - Posted: 17th Feb 2018
So, this morning saw the remaining formers glued and weighted whilst setting. Have finished the day with laying down the first 2 planks up against the keel. Once I’ve got the 2 planks glued in against the other side of the keel will then add 1 or 2 planks each side at the same time and allow to set before moving on, all the time weighted down with my trusty vice in the hope of a straight hull at the end! All straights so far!

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by BigAlio on the 17th Feb 2018
nice to see im not alone in using ever build 502 adhesive i find very good and bonus is its cheap.
Just looked it up on ebay £5.48 a litre delivered item no. 112586677548
Response by Skydive130 on the 17th Feb 2018
I mostly use Aliphatic PVA in my aircraft builds. Was watching a video on youtube of an aeromodellers channel I subscribe too and he swears by 502! bought 500ml for just over £3 at tool station!
Response by Dave M on the 18th Feb 2018
Always good to hear of different makes of adhesive that others use. In a warm room most of these types of wood glue set very quickly to a hold state, developing full strength over 12 hours.
A far cry from the days of Cascamite! which I recall seemed to take 24hrs, a lifetime when you are 5 years old.

mdlbt.com/38761
It’s been a long day! - Posted: 16th Feb 2018
So, most of the day has been taken up with getting the formers cut free from the sheets of semi die-cut liteply. It’s then taken a couple of hours of sanding to get the formers to something like useable.

I’ve jigged formers 1-7, setting the keel in and getting some glue to joints. Will let that set overnight before moving back with glueing formers 8-12 and remaining side formers.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Skydive130 on the 17th Feb 2018
Spooooky.....!
I’ve just laid down the first 2 rows of planks with enough excess at the stern to do just that!
Response by Bobatsea on the 18th Feb 2018
Are you planning fibreglassing your hull? I did mine, 1 strip down the keel and around the stern, then both sides. Currently on coat # 5 of resin with sanding in between.
Response by Skydive130 on the 18th Feb 2018
Yes I will be glass clothing the hull, it’s a process I rather enjoy and something I bring over from my aircraft days.

mdlbt.com/38722
Going brushless after all! - Posted: 16th Feb 2018
I’ve decided to go brushless instead of brushed with a view to adding brushless at a later date. I had a turnigy motor and Hobbyking ESC sat in the spares box and have ordered another pair. Will run this on 2S lipo to start with and go 3s if needed, depending on the watt meter results?

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Dave M on the 16th Feb 2018
I use two Turnigy 2830 750kv brushless 35amp car type escs 11.1v Lipo and 30mm brass props.
Glad to hear you are using a wattmeter to check the loading.

mdlbt.com/38674
Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) - Posted: 15th Feb 2018
So here we go again! I have decided to give other projects a rest for a time in favour of this little gem. Pick up off eBay for less than £100 NIB posted, couldnt resist!

Its the Dumas (kit no:1203) 44' Coast Guard Lifeboat. I dont know if this kit is still produced by Dumas and having looked at the Die cutting of the parts, certainly seems like an old kit? However, I love my building and the challenges, so I am sure it will turn out nice at the end. Finished length 33".

I shall be converting this to a RNLI Waveney Class Lifeboat and will possibly go with 44-003 named "Khami" which was based in Great Yarmouth and Gorleston, which is local to me here in Suffolk. Sadly very little turns up on this boat via Google, but at some stage may pop out to the Great Yarmouth Lifeboat station and see if I can hunt anymore info on her.

I shall not be using the recommended Dumas running gear for 2 reasons, 1st its a geared set-up (I am going with MFA540 brushed direct drive) and the cost of over £150!

Photos show the box artwork, plans and the included wood. Last photo shows my electrics less propshafts and props that are on order. Note the Star Wars 3.75" figures that with poetic licence could be painted to represent crew. However, at this point the model is approx 1;16 scale and the figures would be 1:18 scale so maybe too small. There are 1:16 scale lifeboat figures available but pricey?

My one issue at this point is going to battery choice? do I go with a small 6v lead acid or perhaps 2 Tamiya type 7.2v NIMH in series. anyone who has built anything like this may want to advise. LIPO not an option as the Mtroniks ESC do not support LIPO. Space inside the hull may also be an issue?

Another issue is going to be fabricating some propshaft struts for the rear next to the props. There is quite a bit of prop shaft exposed outside the hull, so these would be integral to support and strength of the propshafts. Is there anything available off the shelf (they are included in the running gear set, but dont seem to be available on there own) of do I need to fabricate from brass tube and sheet/strip brass?

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Skydive130 on the 16th Feb 2018
What do you think of the wood quality Bob, I thinks it’s dire!
Response by Bobatsea on the 16th Feb 2018
Agreed.
The plywood is poorly stamped and requires much sanding. The Canadian 44 had an enclosed cabin, so for me I've scratched build the cabin and didn't use any of the supplied wood for it.
Response by Skydive130 on the 16th Feb 2018
It’s taken most of the day cutting out the formers and sanding to something I am remotely happy with, that’s liteply for you. I expect once I get to the cabins that I will also scratch build with better quality wood.

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