[Download]
Media Gallery
[Close]
| Donation History |
|
April 2018: 21 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 8 people January 2018: 25 people December 2017: 7 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 4 people |
Unique Visitors This Month    |
Website Members  |
|
|||
| Author: AlanP Posts: 10 Photos: 25 Subscribers: 2 Views: 818 Responses: 27 | Most recent posts shown first (Show oldest first) |
|
|||
|
There are two long ladders from the deck to the boat deck and three shorter ones around the battery boxes. I had a few goes at these free hand and they all ended up on the fire. So I made this jig, the two side rails are placed at each side with a piece of wood with the end cut at the angle of the treads, it is a snug fit between the side rails, a spacer is made to get equal spacing's between the treads. The inside of the jig is coated in candle wax to stop the glue sticking the ladders to the jig, Each tread is cut and sanded to be a tight fit between the side rails and glued in place using a tooth pick and super glue. Well that explanation makes sense to me, but the photo's should make it clear. Attached Photos - Click To View Large 
|
|
|||
|
I haven't posted for a while as I have only been running on three cylinders, but all four firing now, so off we go. An edging is glued around the boatdeck, this then allows a thin piece of plasticard to be glued in place for the boatdeck bulwark, after the glue had dried, planks cut from a sheet of veneer were glued inside and out and the bulwark and finished with a teak capping. A cardboard template was made for the boatdeck overlay planking, this was then transferred onto 1mm ply for the planking to be laid on. Using planks cut from a sheet of veneer and cotton thread for the caulking, Aliphatic glue, a tooth pick and my best glasses the planking was completed. The finished planking was given several coats of clear lacquer rubbing down in between coats to give it a nice finish. Planking at this scale with fine thread as caulking is definitely a labour of love. Attached Photos - Click To View Large 
|
|
|||
|
Here is a photo of the doors for the main superstructure, made out of a thin piece of Oak with a surround made from plasticard, brass portholes and dolls house knobs. The watertight doors made from plasticard and the hinges also made from plasticrd with the aid of a magnifying glass 😁 I bought the two sets of portholes from MMModels as it wasn't worth the trouble of making them all, lazy I know 😜 Attached Photos - Click To View Large 
|
|
|||
|
I have made the superstructure out of plasticard as it is much easier to paint, no filling in of the grain as there is with wood. The main superstructure and the engine room structure are supposed to be as one, I am keeping these separate in the hope that I can house the switches and charging sockets under the engine structure. I only have the two photo's of this stage I'm afraid. Attached Photos - Click To View Large 
|
|
|||
|
I forgot about this bit, it was done before the hull and decks were painted. The tubes to take the anchor chain, there is probable a proper name for these but I have no idea what it is 😡 The positions on the deck were marked off and two holes drilled slightly smaller than the plastic tube that I was going to use, the same size holes were drilled on the hull, there are markings on the hull were the anchors go. Using a small round file the holes were opened up to take the tube, a small amount of super glue to hold the tubes in position and then the plastic tubes sanded off against the hull and deck. A bit of P38 around the tubes and sanded. Job done 😁 Attached Photos - Click To View Large 
|
|
|||
|
So, here we go again. Bulwark capping, I didn't have a piece of teak wide enough to cut these out off, so two strips of teak were cut to the relevant size on the band saw and sanded. A large piece of plywood was laid on the top of the hull, the hull outline was drawn onto the plywood, blocks of wood were secured to the plywood to hold the strips of teak in place but exaggerating the curve. [To allow for spring back] The teak was soaked overnight, the next day it was soaked in boiling water a few times, whilst still hot and wet it was placed in the blocks to dry. I had to alter the blocks once to gain a bit more curve. After the strips were properly dried, the top and sides of the strips were given two coats of finishing resin and left to dry, then the underside was coated with super glue and left the dry. Then the tricky bit, wearing my best glasses I applied with the aid of a tooth pick super glue to the tops and bulwark supports and fitted the capping's. The piece around the stern was cut out of one piece and looks alright. Attached Photos - Click To View Large 
|
|
|||
|
The deck and bulwarks were given another coat of paint, after this had dried the wash ports and rope hawsers were masked off and the hull given two coats of red primer, the water line was marked using a pencil on a block of wood, bottom part of the hull masked off and the top part given two coats of satin black. Starting to look like a boat now. The rope crate was made out of plasticard to be a good tight fit on the coaming. The bulwark positions were marked with pencil on the top of the bulwark. After cutting them all out of plasticard, each one was sanded to fit it's position, then keeping them in order and sticking them to upside down masking tape they were sprayed with paint. All the supports were glued into position with super glue, a toothpick and my best glasses. Attached Photos - Click To View Large 
|
|
|||
|
Templates were made out of cardboard, good job that I like Weetabix, a bit of messing about but eventually I got a good fit, these were transferred onto the 3mm ply for the deck. Before fitting the deck the ply was given a couple of coats of Z-Poxy finishing resin rubbing down in-between coats, this filled in the grain ready for painting and also made it waterproof. After the glue had dried the deck and bulwark were given a coat of primere, then two coats of the finishing colour. After a week of the paint left to harden the coamings (if that's the right spelling) were glued in place. Attached Photos - Click To View Large 
|
|
|||
|
The next stage was to smooth out the Bukwarks so that a deck support could be fitted around the hull, the washports and rope hawsers were cut out, if I was to do this again I would cut these out after filling the bulwarks. P38 was used to smooth out the Bulwarks, this really was a labour of love, lots of filling and sanding. For the deck support around the hull I used 3mm lime (Ikea blinds) two layers to give 6mm support glued with Araldite. The rest of the deck supports were then glued in place, I think it was at this stage that I added the two battery placements after having the hull in the bath to work out were they had to go. Attached Photos - Click To View Large 
|
|
|||
|
This is a build of the LadyT from Mobile Marine Models, I am quite a way into the build now and have not taken photo's of every part of the build and I may get things a bit out of sequence, but I will do my best. The hull and a set of templates was given to me, I have found out that the templates in most cases are for guidence only. The hull is not one of the best mouldings I have had but with a bit of effort was knocked into shape. In order that the rudder could be removed from the boat for repair I glued a piece of 3mm brass strip to the hull with Araldit and P38 filler, another piece of brass with a hole to take the rudder was laid on top and two 3.3mm holes drilled through both pieces, the brass on the hull was tapped 4mm and the piece with the hole for the rudder was drilled 4mm clear and countersunck. By undoing the tiller arm and removing the two 4mm countersunk screws the rudder can be removed for repair. The rudder was made with thin ply and P38 using the drawing to make a template of the shape. Attached Photos - Click To View Large 
|
