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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Lady T
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Lady T Print Booklet
Author: AlanP   Posts: 14   Photos: 37   Subscribers: 2   Views: 2755   Responses: 32   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

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Tow hooks - Posted: 19th Jun 2018
Dropping down aft from the boat deck are the tow hooks, why there are two hooks, I have no idea, but that's what is shown on the drawing. Taking the dimensions from the drawing the main part was made up of plasticard and bits of brass tube, the two hooks were made from brass sheet and soldered together, the hoop that these run on goes through the superstructure and is fastened with nuts on the inside.
To the side of the tow hooks is an exhaust with silencer, this was made out of aluminium on the lathe with bits of brass tube, also on this platform are two coal hatches, again made out of plasticard and wood with painted staples as handles.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Fred on the 19th Jun 2018
Hi Alan
That is looking good.
Would having two hook's increase the pull by having one tow rope going to the port side and the other tow rope going to the starboard side?
Keep up the good work

Aft mast - Posted: 28th May 2018
The aft mast was made out of a teak curtain rod turned down on my metal lathe (what a mess it made, wood dust all over the place 😱) it was made in two pieces with a hole drilled up each piece to take the lighting wires. The bit to take the boom, never sure if it is a swan neck or a goose neck was made out of bits of tubing and plasticard. All the other bits and pieces came out of the scrap box. The boom was just made from a piece of dowel and stained.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Funnel - Posted: 28th May 2018
The funnel was made out of 40mm plastic waste pipe, let into a piece of 3mm plasticard, thin strips of plasticard super glued around to simulate the sections. The hatch at the back made with plasticard, hinges and handles again made out of plasticard.
There are four stop cocks at the front, the bodies of these were made out of aluminium on the lathe, with 1mm rod and some hand wheels out of the scrap box.
There are four stays to hold the funnel and one at the top that goes to the aft mast, small hand rail knobs were used for this job.
The funnel was painted (no it isn't pink, its the flash from the camera that makes it look pink) small brass tube to the steam whistle and the whistle made out of a bigger dia tube, a ladder added out of the scrap box and the completed funnel ready for fitting

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
wheelhouse amd bridge - Posted: 26th May 2018
I don't have any photo's of the building of this, so I will try to explain.
I cut all the pieces for the wheelhouse out of 1mm plasticard, the pieces were then fitted together with masking tape to make sure that they all fitted neatly together. The windows were then cut out of Perspex and their positions marked and put aside.
The floor of the wheelhouse was planked along with the rear wall, the five side pieces were then wooded (for want of a better word) light oak for the frames with teak for the infills, the windows were checked to make sure they still fitted.
The whole lot was fitted together with masking tape and glue run down the seams with a small brush.
After drying the outside of the wheelhouse was wooded 😁 over lapping the windows by a couple of thou, the windows were glued in place with canopy glue.
Aft of the wheelhouse are the battery boxes, these were made out of plasticard with doors made out of wood, kiss buttons used for the door knobs.
Two sliding doors were made out of wood, small plastic channel
for the runners.
The bridge was made using the same principal as the boat deck.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Fred on the 27th May 2018
Hi Alan

Good to see you back, I like your use of plastic card covered in wood to build the wheelhouse, it must've made it more easy to glue the corners than to try making it all out of wood.

can I P/M you later as I could do with some help with regard to fitting the motors.

Response by AlanP on the 28th May 2018
Yes, PM is OK Fred
Response by Fred on the 28th May 2018
Hi Alan


wooden ladders - Posted: 12th Apr 2018
There are two long ladders from the deck to the boat deck and three shorter ones around the battery boxes.
I had a few goes at these free hand and they all ended up on the fire. So I made this jig, the two side rails are placed at each side with a piece of wood with the end cut at the angle of the treads, it is a snug fit between the side rails, a spacer is made to get equal spacing's between the treads. The inside of the jig is coated in candle wax to stop the glue sticking the ladders to the jig, Each tread is cut and sanded to be a tight fit between the side rails and glued in place using a tooth pick and super glue.
Well that explanation makes sense to me, but the photo's should make it clear.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Fred on the 12th Apr 2018

Like the idea of the jig, did you use mahogany for the ladders?

Loving the detail you are putting into this👍

Response by AlanP on the 12th Apr 2018
Yes, I think it was Fred, they were given a couple of coats of clear lacquer after sanding to finish them off.
Response by mturpin013 on the 13th Apr 2018
very nice piece of work, always worth making a jig where possible, it shows in the consistency of the finished product
Boatdeck bulwark & boatdeck planking - Posted: 31st Mar 2018
I haven't posted for a while as I have only been running on three cylinders, but all four firing now, so off we go.

An edging is glued around the boatdeck, this then allows a thin piece of plasticard to be glued in place for the boatdeck bulwark, after the glue had dried, planks cut from a sheet of veneer were glued inside and out and the bulwark and finished with a teak capping.

A cardboard template was made for the boatdeck overlay planking, this was then transferred onto 1mm ply for the planking to be laid on. Using planks cut from a sheet of veneer and cotton thread for the caulking, Aliphatic glue, a tooth pick and my best glasses the planking was completed. The finished planking was given several coats of clear lacquer rubbing down in between coats to give it a nice finish.
Planking at this scale with fine thread as caulking is definitely a labour of love.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Fred on the 31st Mar 2018
That is looking good.👍
Keep up the good work, looking forward to your updates.

Response by Donnieboy on the 31st Mar 2018
Excellant job.Thanks for the hint of using the thread.Looks better than magic marker on the edge of the planks.
Doors - Posted: 19th Mar 2018
Here is a photo of the doors for the main superstructure, made out of a thin piece of Oak with a surround made from plasticard, brass portholes and dolls house knobs. The watertight doors made from plasticard and the hinges also made from plasticrd with the aid of a magnifying glass 😁

I bought the two sets of portholes from MMModels as it wasn't worth the trouble of making them all, lazy I know 😜

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Fred on the 19th Mar 2018
Looking great, keep up the good work, looking forward to your next update👍
Response by AlanP on the 19th Mar 2018
Hi Colin, I think the wood for the doors is about 2mm thick, a thin strip slightly wider than 2mm of plasticard is super glued around the edge, then using wet and dry sanded flush front and back. After drilling the hole for the porthole, the whole lot was given a couple of coats of Halfords clear lacquer and the knob stuck on. 👍
Response by Colin H. on the 19th Mar 2018
Thanks Alan, nice and simple the way I like it. I'll put some veneer on a piece of 1/16th ply then cut out and try my luck at framing.
Cheers for now Colin.
Superstructure - Posted: 17th Mar 2018
I have made the superstructure out of plasticard as it is much easier to paint, no filling in of the grain as there is with wood.
The main superstructure and the engine room structure are supposed to be as one, I am keeping these separate in the hope that I can house the switches and charging sockets under the engine structure.
I only have the two photo's of this stage I'm afraid.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by AlanP on the 19th Mar 2018
Hi Doug, just big lead acid batteries in this boat, I only use li po's in my fast electric boats.
Two of our club members have had fires with these so I am very careful with them.
Cheers Alan
Response by RNinMunich on the 19th Mar 2018
Okey Dokey 👍
Doesn't mounting them on the roof make her roll a bit though?? 😲😁😁
Response by AlanP on the 19th Mar 2018
Anchor chain tubes - Posted: 3rd Mar 2018
I forgot about this bit, it was done before the hull and decks were painted.
The tubes to take the anchor chain, there is probable a proper name for these but I have no idea what it is 😡
The positions on the deck were marked off and two holes drilled slightly smaller than the plastic tube that I was going to use, the same size holes were drilled on the hull, there are markings on the hull were the anchors go. Using a small round file the holes were opened up to take the tube, a small amount of super glue to hold the tubes in position and then the plastic tubes sanded off against the hull and deck. A bit of P38 around the tubes and sanded. Job done 😁

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 18th Mar 2018
Hawsepipes Old Chap, Hawsepipes! 😁
Pronounced hawse(r)pipe.
Build is coming on fine, very tidy work 👍
The weights you use look extremely familiar 😉
Did the same with the cabin roof for my Sea Scout reno.
Carry on Blogging, cheers Doug 😎
Response by Fred on the 19th Mar 2018
That is a nice tight looking deck, just hope mine comes out that good.
Bulwark capping - Posted: 2nd Mar 2018
So, here we go again. Bulwark capping, I didn't have a piece of teak wide enough to cut these out off, so two strips of teak were cut to the relevant size on the band saw and sanded. A large piece of plywood was laid on the top of the hull, the hull outline was drawn onto the plywood, blocks of wood were secured to the plywood to hold the strips of teak in place but exaggerating the curve. [To allow for spring back]
The teak was soaked overnight, the next day it was soaked in boiling water a few times, whilst still hot and wet it was placed in the blocks to dry.
I had to alter the blocks once to gain a bit more curve.
After the strips were properly dried, the top and sides of the strips were given two coats of finishing resin and left to dry, then the underside was coated with super glue and left the dry.
Then the tricky bit, wearing my best glasses I applied with the aid of a tooth pick super glue to the tops and bulwark supports and fitted the capping's.
The piece around the stern was cut out of one piece and looks alright.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Fred on the 3rd Mar 2018
Looking good Alan, as RNinMunich said good tip on the bending of the bulwark.

Response by Baggie on the 18th Mar 2018
Thanks to all of you re your posts of your various builds - I am learning a lot from you, your ways of adapting and with the photos, understanding much about building. My Wills Everard is coming on and I am, I think doing OK.
Response by RNinMunich on the 27th May 2018
Looks very shipshape Baggie, or is it a toast rack 😁
Unusual construction style in two halves.
Look forward to seeing how it turns out 👍 Build Blog???

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