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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Krick Police Launch
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Krick Police Launch Print Booklet
Author: MouldBuilder   Posts: 4   Photos: 28   Subscribers: 1   Views: 1272   Responses: 27   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)
Fitting - Posted: 21st Aug 2018
Well, best laid plans and all that. Things have not gone too well.
I managed to transport the boat in pieces to Hungary as planned. That is where the plans changed slightly. The plan was to have a trial on the river by the end of my holiday. I was rudely interupted by beautiful weather so I spent a lot of time in the river myself instead.
I have started to assemble the superstructure and completed the radar, which turns rather realistically when under power. I have added coloured LED`s to the navigation lights. I have mostly completed the painting and laquering. I assembled the hand rails but still have to paint them.
I started to look into the electrics but had to stop when I found that the pump I purchased was not suitable for purpose. I put the pump under test and it only appears to work if fully submerged. Not really useful for a boat. I will search for a replacement.🤔
Just a small note, I have now found that the superstructure has warped slightly during painting. I fitted it really closely before painting but now it has twisted slightly. Very disappointed but never mind.😤
As I am now home until Christmas, there will be no further progress until then. I may not be able to trial until April as our river is often frozen at Christmas.
Well I could not help myself and bought another kit. This next one is different and should be easier. It will be a Pilots boat. At the same time, I will now continue with the PTB refurbishment.🤓

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 21st Aug 2018
"But, Mousie, thou art no thy-lane,
In proving foresight may be vain;
The best-laid schemes o' mice an' men
Gang aft agley,
An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain,
For promis'd joy!"

Poor little homeless mouse 😭 squeak squeak!

Your pump sounds like one intended for a small fountain.
Look for one which is specced as 'Self priming'.
Car windscreen washer pumps from the scrap yard do the job, most need 12V though. Graupner & Co do some small 6V jobs.

Next time plasti-card for the superstructure!?
Cheers, Doug 😎
Oh, and for the rest of us Sassenachs amongst us, the modern English version-
"But Mouse, you are not alone,
In proving foresight may be vain:
The best laid schemes of mice and men
Go often askew,
And leave us nothing but grief and pain,
For promised joy!"
Painting. - Posted: 29th Jul 2018
Well another few weeks have passed and the build is progressing well even though work has taken up most of my time recently.
I have started painting now and as expected, finding it difficult. Due to the time limit I have, only five days left, I have had to cut a few corners. Sorry Doug, I will try harder next time.
I have decided to finish all of the parts before Friday and take them to Hungary with me to assemble. Not quite what I had planned, but I think there will be less or no breakage.
I have added colour LED`s to the navigation lights also. I also have switches operated by the Radio.
The Radar turns using an additional geared 6v motor and the water cannon will be working also...I hope.
I include a few pictures to bring the build up to date. Trials should be in two weeks so long as I do not leave something important at home.
I will add the final build pictures and video the event if I can finish in time.😉

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 29th Jul 2018
Looking good Pete, looking forward to the trials pics👍
Wow! What a sprayer! Do you do cars or full size boats as well?

BTW: 'Every picture tells a story'!?
Plasters and antiseptic cream close to hand!? 😲
Response by MouldBuilder on the 5th Aug 2018
Hi Doug.
Thanks. You are right about the first aid. Clumsy. Good that my wife is a nurse me thinks.😆
No. This is my first attempt at spraying anything like this. That is why I ask a lot of questions. I try to build up knowledge and the courage to have a go. I was lucky this time, so far anyway. It is not perfect by any stretch, nothing like yours, but I am relatively happy with it.
Takes quite a while with a 0.5mm nozzle but once you get going, you soon learn that the paint does not go on too thick so the chances of it running are less, I think.
Response by RNinMunich on the 5th Aug 2018
Evenin' Neville,
For a first attempt spraying that's damn good👍
I prefer to use a 0.8mm nozzle for 'big' areas such as hulls.
0.5 for the 'fine' stuff, e.. cabins and fittings, which I still need to practice! Will need it when I come to the cammo pattern for PT109.
Practice makes perfect they say! Basic rules (THEY also say😁) are-
Paint consistency should remind you of milk (no cream!),
Don't get to close,
Don't move too slow!
Keep up the good work👍 Cheers, Doug 😎
Seeing the light - Posted: 10th Jun 2018
It has been a busy time at work which means that I have very limited time to build at the moment. All things considered all is going well.
I have started the superstructure. The components are requiring a lot of additional work to fit them. I am glad about this as it is all good experience. My sandpaper and files are glowing due to over use.
I have found a very useful filler at my local model shop made by Red Devil. It is extremely light and sets in a very short time; ten minutes. It says that it can be painted after ten minutes. Don`t think I will test this.
I have fitted the deck and sanded down the hull sides to match. I think the weather is almost good enough to start the painting. I am still a little concerned about this particularly with the use of masking tape. I am worried that the previous layers which are covered by the tape will peel on removal. Can anybody tell me how long to allow paint to dry before applying tape and how long can the tape stay in place. I am using Tamiya tape.
I have decided to illuminate most of the lights and will make a module for flashing the blue light. I have lots of electronic components here as I enjoy making prototype circuits. Unfortunately, my love of making these boards is not matched with a knowledge of exactly how they work so I am sure I will be asking for help with the circuit diagram. I have all the components here.🤓
Well that all for now. I am currently constructing all of the deck items. This I find more difficult due to the manipulation of very small parts having `sausage fingers`. Must buy more tweezers!!😊

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 23rd Jun 2018
Hi Peter, Glad it works at all! 😊
1. the capacitor on pin 5 has no effect on the timing circuit.
It's only there to stabilise the 555 chip and stop it 'going off it's trolley' at higher frequencies 😉 It should be 10nano Farad, not micro Farad.
It's job is to short any stray high frequencies to ground.
2. Attached is a table of results I would expect for the values you gave me, and various values of the pot R1.
The duty cycle (%age On time) should vary between 50% and 95%.
Max on time 1.4sec at R1 = 200K. But Off time of 32mSec you'll hardly notice.🤔
3. R2 is way too small at 4.7k compared to the 200k pot.
I warned you that it needed to be similar to the pot to make the adjustment less sensitive. The low value is also the reason why the Off time (discharge time) is so short at 32.62mSec 😲
4. The timing cct is governed by R1, R2 and C.
Pic 2 shows the output waveform switched between Vcc 6V and 0V-
Increase C to increase the whole period (T1+T0) (reduce the frequency).
Increase R1 to increase High Time (T1), without affecting the Low Time (T0).
Increase R2 to increase High Time (T1), increase Low Time (T0) and decrease the duty cycle.
5. Your 180Ohm resistor is about right for an LED with 2.5V Forward voltage drop and 20mA current. If the LED actually wants 30mA you can go down to a120Ohm.

So, how much is 'increase the on time a little'?
What cycle frequency do you want? How long On and how long Off?
Since you are 'Breadboarding' you could just try plugging in different fixed resistors for R1 (instead of the fiddly pot) and R2.
Pic 3 shows results for R1 = 47k and R2 = 100k, C = 10uF.
About 1Sec ON, 0.7Sec Off.
Cheers, Doug 😎
Response by MouldBuilder on the 23rd Jun 2018
Thanks for the help Doug.
I only had a 10K resistor between 200K and 4.7K. I fitted it and the result was perfect. Before I did this, I fitted a 220K to R2. The result was a much longer on time and overall frequency. For a Police flashing blue light the 10K is perfect.
I have now assembled the finished item ready for fitting.
I did a short video of the breadboard setup but it was 60Mb so too big to send
Response by RNinMunich on the 23rd Jun 2018
Great👍 So I guess you now have about 1.5S On and 1.5S OFF.
Glad you got there in the end😊
Happy Flashing 😲
BTW: Post the video on You-Tube and put the link in the Video Gallery here then we can all see what you've been up to 😉
Cheers, Doug 😎
Krick Police Launch - Posted: 26th May 2018
I have just started to build the Police Launch that I have had for a while. Work commitments have left me with little time lately but hopefully I can get a good run on this one for a while. I hope to finish it by late July which just leaves me enough time to send it to Hungary so that I can test it.
The kit is said to be good for a beginner. This would be good as many years ago I built a Patrol Torpedo Boat which took me five years. I am currently restoring this one as well but I think that will take most of this year to complete.😁
I have started by buying the speed controller. The motor is a 400 brushed. Probably not going to be too difficult to keep up with this one.
The kit itself is not too bad considering the price, but I do feel that the ABS vacuum formed hull could be of a slightly better quality. Also I am finding the ply wood to be rather brittle. Does anybody have an idea for a good filler to use to fill the chips which will take to acrylic paint.
I have prepared the hull and added the propeller shaft and rudder holes. Care taken here to avoid splits in the plastic. Cellotape on both sides before drilling helps.🤓
I have assembled the internal parts which hold the motor, battery and rudder and also fitted the prop shaft.😲
I will start on the deck and superstructure next.
An additional note about the kit. The instructions are reasonable but they are in black and white which is not helpful considering they are photograph based with text. I found a PDF on the web which is in full colour. Why don`t Krick supply this. Surely not that expensive.🤔

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by TheBlacksmith on the 24th Jun 2018
Hi nice to see your build, I built a Krick police boat about 18 to 20 month ago and it is my favourite boat to sailI have a 550 motor in it and although it was very fast I experimented with props and I am down to a rough scale speed.
The only other mods are I fitted spray rails on the chine and I used a longer propshaft and reversed the position of the motor and batteries, it sits in the water at just the right level with no ballast and planes beautifully. I bought a couple of 5mm. 9v. led's and used one along with a siren kit from the now defunct Maplins. Happy sailing😁
Response by MouldBuilder on the 25th Jun 2018
Hi The Blacksmith.
I am enjoying the build. There is a lot more work in this one than I was expecting. I do not expect a great deal of speed from this model with only a 400 motor, but I will just have to wait for the first trial to find out.
I have two other projects on the go but I am putting all of my spare time into this one as I would like to complete before the end of July. I am modifying the lighting on the model to make the blue light flash, add proper navigation lights and deck lighting.
Thanks for looking and commenting on the build.😉
Response by canabus on the 26th Jun 2018
Hi MouldBuilder
You ESC will work on 12VGel batteries as well !!!
Using the NiCad link and no brakes.
Works great in my Hellen Fishing Boat.
Ordered another one as I have another Hellen coming.
The price was too dam cheap.