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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > 1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay
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1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay Print Booklet
Author: teejay   Posts: 2   Photos: 31   Subscribers: 1   Views: 197   Responses: 14   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)
Rudders and Propellers - Posted: 11th Oct 2018
Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail.
The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod.
The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes.
The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks.
The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place.
The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings.
And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Donnieboy on the 12th Oct 2018
Excellent work.Especially like your metal work.Great job.Looking forward to see it finished and running.
Response by RNinMunich on the 12th Oct 2018
Agree, Excellent work👍
But do us a favour TJ; hit the return key now and again to break up the text a bit.
Such big blocks of continuous sentences are difficult to follow and hard on me old eyeballs 🤓
Where did you get that mini lathe? Looks nice.
Cheers, Doug 😎
1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay - Posted: 11th Oct 2018
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared by both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first radio control boat. the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup ( I have reposted blog because I think I did not do it properly first time round)

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Rookysailor on the 19th Oct 2018
Evenink Doug, Many thanks for the link, but no mention of a Proxxon, but googled that and found your FD 150/E, best price so far is £400.00 gbp. The major problem is I do not know one end of a lathe from the other😱, I do have friends with lathes who I could pester...but don't want to be a pest! any good books you can suggest, on learning the lathe😊.

cheers Peter

BTW, The proxxon lathe looks like the dogs ......😲
Response by RNinMunich on the 20th Oct 2018
Hi peter, Wow! Price has gone up since I bought mine!
But it IS good, I'm very happy with it.
With the really really cheap ones I'm always a bit sceptical of the fine control, accuracy and concentricity etc. These are even more important when working on very very small parts - aren't we always!?

Afraid the only book I have on lathe work for model builders is in German.
Must be similar books over there!? Try searching Amazon.

BTW: I hope you meant 'The Bee's Knees' and not the 'Dogs Breakfast'! 😲

Re 'pestering friends'; You CAN'T pester real friends! 😉
I'm sure they'd be very glad to help and advise.
If not; they ain't friends 🤔
Cheers, Doug 😎
Response by Rookysailor on the 20th Oct 2018
Will check on amazon Doug, for an idiots book on lathes😆,

I'm sure there are real friends at the club, and I also count you in there, for the help you have been on so many builds.

really appreciate the help Doug.😉


BTW, I meant the dogs Bo---ks ie The Best👍