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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > 1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay
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1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay Print Booklet
Author: teejay   Posts: 3   Photos: 31   Subscribers: 2   Views: 612   Responses: 28   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)
fuses - Posted: 22nd Dec 2018
Schnellboot Radio control setup

3 Mtroniks M400 marine Motors
(running at 12V, at maximum efficiency it will run at around 20,000 Rpm and pull around 4 amps. Start-up current depending on prop size (30mm on 4mm prop shaft) would be around 10amps (6-12 volts)
3 Mtroniks Viper marine 15 ESCs connected using Mtroniks W-tail mixer with 10-amp fuses used between ESC and battery’s
Batteries are
1 Carson 2100 MAH High performance NiMH battery pack
2 Vanquish 22oo MAH NiMH battery pack
All Batteries are 7.2 V
I have tested the set -up all the ESC are synchronised, and all seems well on the bench but when I try it in test tank all the fuses blow, and I check all connections and there are not short circuits on the connections or switches can anyone help
Response by Donnieboy on the 23rd Dec 2018
Before going to the expense of new esc's.Check the current draw when the boat is in the water.I should have mentioned that sooner.
Response by RNinMunich on the 23rd Dec 2018
Hi TJ,
Donnie is right. When in the water maybe the start-up surge current briefly exceeds 10A. Especially if you shove the throttle straight to the end stop!
So try 15A fuses - the ESCs should stand a 50% overload for a few seconds - and open the throttle slowly while watching the current drawn per motor.
Cheers, Doug 😎
Response by teejay on the 23rd Dec 2018
Thanks Doug and Donnie tried the 15 amp fuses all went well the boat is ready for the lake.
and thank you all for the help and advise during this build over the past year I really don't think I could have managed it without your input.
the next stage is going to be replacement of the brass rudders and some work on weight saving and some pic on the RC system. and making a suitable box for transportation. that will kept me occupied till the better weather. So thank you all and have a merry Christmas and happy new year and a good hangover cure and may your god be with you in all your sailing
Rudders and Propellers - Posted: 11th Oct 2018
Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail.
The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod.
The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes.
The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks.
The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place.
The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings.
And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 12th Oct 2018
Agree, Excellent work👍
But do us a favour TJ; hit the return key now and again to break up the text a bit.
Such big blocks of continuous sentences are difficult to follow and hard on me old eyeballs 🤓
Where did you get that mini lathe? Looks nice.
Cheers, Doug 😎
Response by RNinMunich on the 20th Oct 2018
BTW; I copied your above massive text block into a document file and split it up into paragraphs so I could see where you're at!
My conclusion: so far so good BUT!
You made the one classic mistake of many model boat / ship builders 🤔
You continued the prop shaft tube right back to the propeller and hence you had to make oversize struts to support them.
This is fundamental wrong and creates unnecessary work.😉
On real ships, including the Schnellboote, the so called 'stuffing tube' is JUST THAT, it 'stuffs' the shaft through the hull and includes stuffing glands to prevent the ingress of sea water.
Outside the hull ONLY the rotating shaft itself continues on through the bearing in the support strut and to the prop.
See attached pics of my HMS Belfast as an example.
There was actually no reason for you to make oversize strut bearings, simply bushes to match your prop SHAFT not the tube would have been correct.
Inside the real ship there is also NO TUBE, only bearings at suitable intervals. They look like gigantic versions of the big ends in your car.

Imagine on really big ships, carriers, container ships, bulk tankers etc, with shaft diameters of 1metre or so how big the 'tube' would be, how much weight that would add and how difficult it would be to service and maintain!
I've often noticed in posts here that folk confuse shaft and tube, often referring to the whole assembly as 'the shaft'.
For convenience we modellers use prop tubes, who wants to fiddle about making a row of internal shaft bearings no one will ever see and will most likely never be really concentric?
The downside is that continuing this 'convenience' outside the hull is wrong, adds weight and detracts from the scale appearance of the model. 😭
OK, it's 3am here now so - orf me 'obby 'orse and up (in my case down!)
the wooden stairs to Bedfordshire, G'night all, cheers, Doug😎
Re shaft length: What fits fits, what don't don't!
Such a question is like asking 'How long is a piece of string?'!
If all three motors abreast won't fit you have to decide if the central motor should / will fit fore or aft of the outer motors. Then measure / adjust the shaft length accordingly. Before you start fitting the centre motor check what length shafts are commercially available and adjust your motor fit to suit.
Otherwise make your own shafts and tubes to fit as required, as I've started doing cos I got fed up with 'standard sizes' wot don' wanna fit my ship. 🤔 G'night All, cheers, Doug 😎
Response by BW3 on the 21st Oct 2018
Hello TeeJay,
Looks like we are building the same boat, yours looks great and I want to Thank You for asking questions that I had not given thought to , will enjoy following your build and look forward to seeing the first runs ..

Bill G.
1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay - Posted: 11th Oct 2018
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared by both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first radio control boat. the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup ( I have reposted blog because I think I did not do it properly first time round)

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by RNinMunich on the 21st Oct 2018
Ok Peter, ich schau mal was sich finden lässt! 😉
Title is "Drehen für Modellbauer, Band 1; Das ABC des Hobbydrehers", Author Jürgen Eichart, Publisher VTH Fachbuch.
Verlag für Technik und Handwerk neue Medien GmbH.
Alles Gute, Doug 😎
Response by RNinMunich on the 21st Oct 2018
Heartily agree TJ above all never wear a tie or loose clothing while working with rotating machinery.
And never ever leave the key in the chuck!
Remember at school in the metal workshop seeing a chuck key whizz across the room and out the window - without bothering to open it first!
I thought the teacher was going to have an apoplectic fit.
Any half decent tutorial book on lathe-work will have a chapter devoted to safety.
Cheers, Doug 😎
Response by RNinMunich on the 21st Oct 2018
Sorry Peter, I've scoured the VTH site and no trace of English translations, although they specifically reserve the translation rights! RATS! 😡
Shame co there's a lot of useful hints, tips and tables in it and it's well illustrated with many photos and drawings.