Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play

Help Support This Website
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.

£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team

Donation History
February 2019: 8 people
January 2019: 16 people
December 2018: 6 people
November 2018: 11 people
October 2018: 9 people
September 2018: 13 people
August 2018: 5 people
July 2018: 8 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 9 people

Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy

Model Boats Website
Active Users (11)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Aerokits/Jotika Sea Queen
>> Permalink
Aerokits/Jotika Sea Queen Print Booklet
Author: Ianh   Posts: 8   Photos: 15   Subscribers: 2   Views: 890   Responses: 10   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)
Assembly - Posted: 27th Oct 2018
Hi All
Would suggest you dry assemble with the cabin sides as my forward bulkhead was out by 2 Degrees.
When I cut the pieces out I used a new Dremel Moto Saw as my old srollsaw from Dremel was condemned due to inavailability of blades.
Like I say not enough clamps
Have ordered the decking from Jotika this is extra and allows you to plank the deck and cockpit more realistically.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Motors - Posted: 19th Oct 2018
Don't know what happened
Model Number Caldercraft CEM 900T MFA Torpedo 850
Nominal Voltage 12v 12v
Operating Range 6-24v 12v
Type Brushed Brushed
Current Cons No Load 0.4A 1.9A
Current Consumption Max Eff 5A 10,8A
Stall Current 20.3A 40A
RPM at Nominal Voltage 3000r/min 9778r/min
Prop Caldercraft 75mm

The Motor I am putting in this Sea Queen is a Torpedo 850. This is due to the Caldercraft motor only manages just above walking pace.
Response by vortex on the 5th Feb 2019
Go brushless and let it perform
Electrical - Posted: 19th Oct 2018
Hi All
Refer to attached for motor comparison.
I don't like using Cyano so the hull be built using ZAP 30minute epoxy and a weather proof Alphylitic from Sika. I will more than likely use a polyurethane based glue for the skinning. The hole boat will be epoxy coated inside and out to add strength. By the way the epoxy resin will increase the strength by about 2.5😁😁

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Clamps - Posted: 19th Oct 2018
Part of my collection

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Assemble the hull - Posted: 19th Oct 2018
The Bulwarks were out in place on the jig and glued with ZAP 30 minute epoxy. I used the cabin sides to align the bulkheads. By the way Clamps you will need a lot of these

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Kit Quality ETC. - Posted: 19th Oct 2018
To give you some idea of the quality of this kit. Here are some photos. The quality is excellent and if you have a bit of experience this can easily be built. I don't fancy the all white look as the original had mahogany cabin sides and brass portholes this is what I will do with it,👍👍

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by canabus on the 19th Oct 2018
Hi Ian.
A Mahogany deck with light strips between would look better and another colour for the cabin, but, yes to the brass portholes.
Response by Ianh on the 19th Oct 2018
Hi I have ordered the additional decking material from Jotika. I remember seeing similar boats around Bideford and most cabins had mahogany sides with white rooves and mahogany /teak grab rails
The Building Board - Posted: 16th Oct 2018
I made this from a 54" long piece of Melamine shelving. shallow cut a centre ine down the middle 1/16" wide.
The board was then marked into 2" squares using a laundry marker. The design concept was from a fuselage jig I had made by SLEC. The holes required for the brackets are M5 with captive ( T nuts) underneath pulled up into the bottom of the board. The red tape down the centre is masking tape ( the high quality stuff) this was to stop the boat glueing itself to the board. As the the keel has a skeg we needed to raise the keel to ensure parallelism I used an Enginerers Marking out block and two doorstops on this.The angles can slide and you then clamp the Bulwarks on I used thirty minute epoxy for this although I would like a longer working time epoxy. Bulwarks 3 and 4 with the motor base was also epoxied together.
This was then located on the keey ( Dryfit along with the other bulkheads. A word of advice here use the cabin sides to ensure alignment. Check with a rule and squares before gluing anything.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Wingcoax on the 17th Oct 2018
Looking at the pictures i would say they are original from the SLEC building board.
Response by Ianh on the 18th Oct 2018
Well spotted they are from SLEC including the blind nuts and bolts
I used them originally to do the fuselage on a R/C Lancaster. Wn't fly it anymore as I don't to plough it into the ground. 😉😉😉
Response by Wingcoax on the 18th Oct 2018
I still have a set from thirty years ago, now here in Portugal. With a new board i must say.
Aerokits/Jotika Sea Queen - Posted: 16th Oct 2018
This is being built from the Jotika Sea Queen Kit.
The kit is quite comprehensive but I need to check the fittings supplied as some of the look a bit small for a 1:12 Boat. Also decided to change the Motor from the existing Caldercraft to an MFA Torpedo 850 as I believe the Caldercraft Motor only manages walking pace.
First thing was to built a building board. I need this to also cope with a VMW 46" RAF Crash Tender.
Response by vk6tnc on the 2nd Feb 2019
I have carried this exact kit with me for many years. Your blog is my inspiration to start :-) Scared to make a mistake as this is my first build. I bought a bottle of Titebond III a couple of years ago!
Response by Ianh on the 3rd Feb 2019
Titebond 3 is a high performance PVA. We can't get Titebond 3 here in South Africa. Gorilla/Gator glue you which is a polyurethane based glue have to Work using Rubber Gloves and have a bottle of rubbing Alcohol handy as it sticks like mad and you won't be able to get it off your hands.
I still have Cascamite! Been using a Sika PVA adhesive but the bulwarks were fitted with ZAP 30 minute Epoxy. I have found an eight hour epoxy to fix the stringers to the bulkheads with with. Why is it we make short worktime adhesives is beyond me. I have always found that the quickset glues are prone to be brittle. The only one I haven't found to be brittle is ZAP. Going to epoxy the inside of the boat before fitting the skins