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>> Home > Boat Building Blogs > Mersey Class Lifeboat 1/12th Scale
>> Permalink
Mersey Class Lifeboat 1/12th Scale Print Booklet
Author: Gregg   Posts: 94   Photos: 342   Subscribers: 10   Views: 24446   Responses: 87   |   Most recent posts shown first   (Show oldest first)

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build update 2/12/16 - Posted: 3rd Dec 2016
I still have the interior to complete, having too much fun sailing it, but heres a few images from recent sailings.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Gregg on the 3rd Dec 2016
Hi Dave.. The sound system will stay exactly where it is within the hull. When I designed the layout. I "pre formed" the cabin interior shell and made as a removeable unit when you lift the cabin off, so I already know everything is in the right place. Im still playing around with some seats, to see if I can convert to "mersey style", as the only ones i could get were for a Severn.
Response by greybeards on the 3rd Dec 2016
True Craftsmanship, outstanding work...well done
Response by Dave M on the 3rd Dec 2016
Perhaps you know someone with a 3D printer who will make some for you?
I must revisit your blog to refresh my memory on the build.
Might be a while as I have several other projects in progress.
I hope you post details of the inside when you have a solution.
Deck lights - Posted: 7th Nov 2012
I purchased some resin cast deck light fittings, cleaned them up a little to remove the rough edges In the grilles, but how to simulate the lens? If I placed a clear perspex sheet panel behind the lens, up against the cabin panel, I might suffer from light glare blasting sideways through the perspex, so back to my railway modelling Ideas and used some "liquid water" resin. I simply back filled the lamps with this clear liquid resin, allowed to dry and the trimmed up. the resin flowed In to the edges of the grille slots and made a good watertight clear cover, so by the drilling a hole through the cabin panel at an angle, I could pus an led halfway through the drill hole and shine through the light fitting.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Gregg on the 10th Nov 2013
Thanks for your reply and comments. We all have to start somewhere and I'm still a beginner believe It or not, I've only been "in" to model boats now for 3 years so I still have a lot to learn, but If I can share my experiences, both good and bad, I feel Its only for the good of all and so everyone can learn too.
Response by spicey on the 15th Jun 2015
hI Gregg, I know Its has been a long time since you made this blog can you tell me how you made the rails around the boat or do you know where I can get some I hope you can help me Chris spice (PM only)
Response by Deswelham on the 11th Mar 2016
Interested in the liquid water resin. Will have to look that one up.
Evening sail test. - Posted: 21st Oct 2012
Took the boat out for a light test last week. A kind member from a local photographic society was on site and he kindly took these pics.

Have to admit, you could almost take It as a full size one on return to Harbour.....

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Dave M on the 21st Oct 2012
Have to agree Gregg. Looks just like the real thing. Be good to see a video with the engine sound 😀
Response by Gregg on the 21st Oct 2012
I'll take my video camera along next tuesday night, this has sound as well as vision so to speak. Dont blame me for the shaky pic though [ha ha].
Response by Dave M on the 21st Oct 2012
If you had just sailed the fast tunnel hull model I would expect you to be a bit shaky 😁
Anchors. - Posted: 2nd Aug 2012
The later version Mersey Class use or rather are "equipped" with a pair of anchors, stowed In close order to each other on the forward deck behind the capstan. These, like almost everything else are made from Styrene sheet. I managed to source some nice templates off some taymar spec sheets I found on the web, but whereas these were folded out of brass sheet, I simply copied to styrene sheet and then folded to shape and glued. The styrene gives just as sharp and edge as brass but at a significant weight reduction.. Once painted you would hardly know anyway.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Chain slips pt2 - Posted: 30th Jul 2012
Once the blocks have fully dried, time to mount them to the base plates made earlier, the plates were painted stainless steel colour ,especially on the underside prior to fitting as unable to get the paintbrush In later, due to the rubber buffer strip.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Chain locks - Posted: 17th Jul 2012
A simple device thats actually works just as the full size version too!.
Built entirely from styrene, as again, "watching the weight" on the build, the main hook was made first from some 4mm styrene rod, the outer frame from sheet and a block for the base. As the upper [rearmost] head block Is struck, It tilts backwards, releasing the chain hook, this letting the chain slip away and off the boat deck. Resetting afterwards Is just as easy.
I will add that these are that strong, I use them to hold the boat down on Its wheeled trolley. Well It saves damaging the railings throwing a webbing strap over the deck.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Dave M on the 19th Jul 2012
HI Gregg
Very neat work. I take It you are using Stablit to provide the joint strength? 👍 After all that work I'd be making a mould and casting the bits In fastcast resin for sale to other lifeboat enthusiasts. 😀 What's the final colour? I well know the problem with damage to railings. My Trent Is a nightmare and I seem to be constantly repairing. I have now built an open coffin lined with Insulation foam to transport using webbing straps. I think I will add two wheels at one end and a detachable handle at the other as I am ageing and weight lifting Is no longer pleasant! 😰
Response by Gregg on the 19th Jul 2012
I simply used plasticweld to join all the pieces of styene together, as It melts/fuses the styrene, rather than simply gluing It together.
I found that the white metal stanchions supplied via models by design/metcalf mouldings were way too fragile and contained too little lead for flexibility, they only had to "lean" In excess of 2 degrees and they snapped In half, so I made my own out of brass tube, as these will take the odd knock and still allow you to straighten them back. The tow rails are styrene strip, so again, If knocked, It only take a little more plastic weld and they are back on again In place In seconds. I did think about using alloy angle strip............ but only "thought" as this too Is too brittle and would not take any "reworking" If bent.
My secondhand golf bag trolley works fine for transporting the Mersey around, plus It holds the boat at a nice working height when changing batteries etc.
Slip chain protector plates - Posted: 12th Jul 2012
These are fitted to trailer launched boats only and protect the rubber fender and the sides of the hull from the trailer chains that hold the boat on. the chains are secured to the launching trailer and are held to the boat by a slip lock, more on the actual locks later....
The plates were simply formed from some styrene sheet, cut to approximate size and gently heated over a low flame to soften. Once the styrene was showing signs of softening, It was quickly shaped/formed around a wooden dowel and allowed to cool before removing from the former. They were then given a final trim with a sharp blade.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Tow cables - Posted: 4th Jul 2012
Just an update to show the fixation of the tow cables on the strenghtened keel bar and the cutout In the bows.

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Stemhead roller - Posted: 30th Jun 2012
This small Item took a lot of thought, Its not something that has a lot of Information, barring from picture Images. It Is used In conjunction with the forward capstan In normal use, but has to be hinged, so the beaching tow cables can be released to recover the vessel, back on to the launching trailer.
The basic outer shell was made from styrene and gently heated to shape. I decided not to make the upper section hinged, far too fragile, not unless making In brass of course. The Inner roller was formed from a piece of wooden dowel and sanded to form the cable groove.
The base of the roller assembly Is hinged so the tow cables can be accessed, purely for "demonstration purposes".

Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Tow strops pt2 - Posted: 28th Jun 2012
Just a few pictures to update the actual operation of the strop retainer handle. As you can see It hinges easily, even manages to lock Itself In the "down" position, so no risk of anyone tripping over the cables!

Attached Photos - Click To View Large

Response by Dave M on the 28th Jun 2012
Neat bit of metal work. The locking mechanism Is very clever. I assume the handle stays locked due to the hinge geometry pulling the handle down when any pressure Is placee on the cables. 👍

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