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    Forum Topics
    Many moons ago when I worked in the shipyards we used something similar on a much larger scale with the holes 2"dia these massive slabs of steel were used to bend bulb bar and hold plates flat for welding they were called dogging plates or tables depending on the size (I think dogging has a different connertation now a days) .the tables or plates were used with bars which were called dogs .good luck with the rest of the soldering😐😐
    5 hours ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ marky ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    13 Posts
    13 days ago
    by retirement-hobby
    5 hours ago
    by marky
    Thames Barge Plan Kitty
    Hi, Kitty was a plan by Richard Webb, he had a web site www.scalemodelboatyard.co.uk , sorely very long time not availlable. There exists more tsb plans , put > thames sailing barge model plans < into Google. I think you could choose something ..if you are thinking about RC model ... I would recommend some finished hull. There are also a number of other barge plans, such as Lady Daphne or Veronica. Model Veronica goes to buy as a kit from Traplet - https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/thames-barge-veronica/. Β On the Internet are also reduced plans of other barges, but these must be adjusted for the construction of the model. Tom
    6 hours ago by πŸ‡¨πŸ‡Ώ tomarack ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    3 Posts
    4 days ago
    by wmbc40
    6 hours ago
    by tomarack
    Yes - drilling small holes on circular surfaces is difficult. Do you have a small dremel-type drill with some disc cutters? If so, a light cut across the top of the tube would be easy to do accurately and would leave a small hole. If the cut was too deep it might weaken the brass tube, but for a static model that would be fine. The solder would flow into the cut and hide it completely. You could even do it with a triangular needle file. If the cut did not go completely through it would still help in centring the drill. The nice thing about drilling holes is that you then have 1/8" excess tolerance that you can cut the vertical wires to - they will slide up and down in the tube... You can also cut tubes precisely to shape, then join them temporarily with a bit of mains copper wire inside, making very neat joints. See pictures 5, 6 and 7 on this page -
    6 hours ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    7 Posts
    1 Like
    18 hours ago
    by retirement-hobby
    6 hours ago
    by DodgyGeezer
    New forum rankings.
    Hi Brianaro, "Someone has spent a lot of time building this website and put masses of thought into its content. Why? They can’t earn a fortune doing it, I guess they do it for the benefit and enjoyment of the users and visitors. It’s a shame this point has been missed and the reason we visit the site overlooked." This is exactly what I emphasised some days ago. But then; I suppose you didn't read it cos there were some Smileys in my post. Cheers Doug 😎
    7 hours ago by πŸ‡©πŸ‡ͺ RNinMunich ( Admiral)
    46 Posts
    4 days ago
    by rolfman2000
    7 hours ago
    by RNinMunich
    Locating Clubs on 'Boats Clubs and Lakes'
    Agree Alan, It was a lot easier / quicker to find all sorts of things before. The Forum used to be categorised; Electrical Related, Site Related, Specific, Boat Related Non Modelling Chit Chat, for example. Now everything is in one 'bucket'. ☹️ Doug
    7 hours ago by πŸ‡©πŸ‡ͺ RNinMunich ( Admiral)
    2 Posts
    1 Like
    7 hours ago
    by ads90
    7 hours ago
    by RNinMunich
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    Fitting of Sponstons and bulwarks
    by Hillro ( Leading Seaman) πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§
    7 Posts • 6 Likes • 4 hours ago
    1/11 scale Fairey Huntsman
    by manyboats ( Petty Officer 2nd Class) πŸ‡¦πŸ‡Ί
    9 Posts • 35 Likes • 9 hours ago
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    by Joe727 ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class) πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ
    9 Posts • 23 Likes • 11 hours ago
    Flying Scotsman. Iron paddle tug
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    Mersey Ferry Royal Daffodil ex Overchurch
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    Boat Harbour
    HMS DAFFODIL 1918 later to become Royal Daffodil
    HMS Daffodil fitted with armour for WW1 raid on Zeebrugge in 1918. Scratch built on fiberglass hull. No plans, just from old photos. The Mersey Ferry requisitioned by Admiralty and later to become Royal Daffodil in recognition of her actions at the Zeebrugge raid.
    Virgin Atlantic Challenger
    Hi there, this is the only pic I have of Virgin Atlantic Challenger on the water, which I built from 'free' plans in a model boats magazine - built all of lite ply - powered by 7.4 NiCad batteries - and there is a Race 5
    Tug Brooklyn
    Tug Brooklyn is a Circa 1910 Steam Tug!
    (Working Vessel) Eppleton Hall
    I am in the process of building a 32nd scale model of the paddle tug "Eppleton Hall" from scratch, for the most part. The hull is complete now and ready for fiberglass. Stay tuned for progress updates... (Motor: 540 MFA 919D) (ESC: VIPER Marine 25) (10/10)
    (Yacht) Koh-i-Noor
    I bought this yacht via a well known auction website. it was owned by an old gent who had passed away and was covered in dust and the ABS white hull had yellowed with age. I cleaned the yacht up, rubbed the timber decks down and varnished them, re-painted the superstructure, rubbed down the hull and spayed the hull a grey/brown colour. it came complete with auxiliary motor, batteries, sail winch servo, ESC and navigation light switching unit. The yacht sails perfectly and looks great on the water. A real bargain buy. (Motor: Robbe) (ESC: Hitec Gold) (9/10)
    (Working Vessel) Northlight Clyde Puffer
    The Clyde Puffer is a Caldercraft kit of 1:32 scale. it is a representative model of a typical small coaster from the Western isles of Scotland, known to many ship lovers as a 'Clyde Puffer'. it has a GRP hull which has full external detail, riveting, strakes etc. and a plywood superstructure and decking plus over 200 white metal fittings. As usual for Caldercraft you need to have your thinking cap on as the A0 plan and the 'instruction book' do not match up but of course they do expect you to have a little bit of experience in model building. it has taken me about 6 months to build, but working on and off over this time. it has a large hull which is easy to house the motor, ESC, RC and batteries, etc. (I installed 2 lead acid 6 volt batteries, one on each side amidships) which gives stability and ballast. Being a large deep hull it needs a lot of ballast, even in its short length. I have only tested her in the big white test tank at home so do not know how it will perform on our lake. I have sailed her many times on our lake and she certainly sails well. I installed an electronic switch for the navigation lights and gives a good effect during the darker afternoons/evening. (Motor: MFA) (ESC: Viper Marine 15) (9/10)
    (Naval Ship) Sir Kay (T241)
    This is my Sir Kay (T241) - Round Table Class Minesweeper. it is from the Caldercraft range and I was fortunate to recently acquire it - I would have much preferred to have built it but couldn't miss the opportunity of it being given to me by an old retiring modeller. it just needed new RC throughout, a good clean, a tidy up and some fresh paint here and there plus a bit of rigging renewal. Not tried it in the water yet but will do tomorrow at our Club meet. (Motor: MFA Geared 2.5:1) (ESC: Mtroniks) (5/10)
    (Fire Boat) 34" Aerokits Crash Tender
    Can't really complain about this setup, the boat performs well and the battery life is also very good considering the performance it delivers. (Motor: Mega X Motor) (ESC: Barracuda) (9/10)
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