Hi Mate, skeg looks good , but, make sure the prop has good clearance from the stearn end of the skeg. Full size would stop at the shaft end not curl under the prop, this might cause cavitation at the prop tips, depending on the hull depth in the water and the prop revs
Hi Grandpa I agree with the advice Mark has already given, but would add that the large keel you seem to be adding will make the model difficult to turn. A simple infill from the keel to the shaft will give you all the strength you need without altering the handling characteristics. I usually use a piece of hard balsa to make a fillet. Gouge a slot where it sits on the shaft and epoxy in place. Cover with tissue or cloth coated with sanding sealer or resin. I am attaching a pic of my Sea Queen which shows the skeg. There is a small flared keel forrard of the skeg but this is part of the original design of this fast planing hull. You could add a short flared keel forrard of your shaft for say an inch or two but not to the full depth. Good luck and please share the end result Dave
HI Grandpa, your drawing is much better but i would go with Dave M, just use the infill between the hull and the shaft, it will turn much better, the idea of the slight flair in front of the shaft will allow the water to part around the shaft, probably reducing the disturbance over the prop.
Use a combination, reduced depth in front of the shaft, flared into the hull, then using the infill just to support the shaft
Hi Grandpa If you refer to the plan you will see that the hull skins are flush with the keel. This is to allow the model to cut into the water and rise on the plane If your skeg will also be filed flush until just before the propshaft then this will be similar to the design but with a harder keel to protect against knocks. Good luck with the build Dave
Yes mate, the prop tube is about 2" short, the amount of the keel you have had to cut away has weakened the hull structure. As you are in the early stages, i would re-cut the keel with the longer shaft, and try to get the hole smaller making the shaft a tight fit will add to the strength of the keel.
Just a point, the pics are far clearer with the site update
Yes I agree with Mark you need to have a longer propshaft and remake the keel with a slot that fits the propshaft. A short piece of wood either side of the keel inside will keep everything square and strengthen the joint. When designed the model would have had an IC engine requiring much greater clearance inside the model, resulting in a steep angle and short propshaft. If you have your motor and coupling it would be a good idea to install the whole assembly before you skin the hull. This will enable you to have a true and free running setup. Dave
Yes, i see what you mean, with the shaft being extended, try to lower the angle of the shaft, this could be done in situ, or if the keel has not been fitted yet, re-drill the hole so that the shaft and motor will sit closer to the bottom of the hull, you cant go to far as the prop will foul the hull, but as Dave said, the hull was designed for an IC power unit, so needed the space to start the motor
Hi Grandpa Looking at the latest photos suggests the shaft and keel will be secure and if the prop is clearing the hull then the shaft may be long enough. You may need to add an extended coupling to allow for the motor. As I mentioned it would be a good idea to fit the motor, coupling shaft and prop now to make sure it all fits nice and square and runs freely. Don't forget you must have thrust washers at either end of the propshaft together with a locknut for both the coupling and prop.😁 I am in the Crewe club and Mark I believe sails with Etherow. We are both North West clubs so a few hundred miles from Canterbury. Good to hear you have a local modellers Club. Good building Dave