All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support.
Model Boats Website Team
December 2017: 5 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 15 people August 2017: 10 people July 2017: 16 people June 2017: 8 people May 2017: 8 people April 2017: 16 people
Hello I bought an old swordsman from a friend recently and have started to refurbish it This will be my first foray into refurbishing wood models so I think I will learn a lot! It was a gas-powered boat but this will change to electric. So far, I have sanded the paint back to the wood and have filled the bow section damage. I have found an area around the hole for the prop shaft that has delaminated and come away from the keel. My plan is I am going to use Zap ultra-thin penetrating CA to re laminate the ply sheet. then use cascamite glue to reseal all the joints around the hull. Would this be a good way to repair this damage or is there a better way? I will keep this thread up dated with new photos and progress reports over the coming weeks.
Hi Richard Whilst the delamination appears local chance are the fuel has penetrated well into the laminates together with water. Use whatever you want to patch the damage but a fresh piece of ply will probably be cheaper and more resilient. Cascamite will not work well with cyano. I would, after sorting the damage, use a thin resin poured and swilled around the hull insides to seal, followed by a covering of glass fibre or cloth over the outside impregnated with polyester lay up resin. You can fill any resulting blemishes with car body filler. As the model had an ic engine chances are the prop shaft will be showing signs of its age. Even if the bearings appear ok'ish the shaft is most likely bent or twisted. I suggest whilst you are sorting out the delamination you purchase a new unit of the same size. Most modern kit is metric so your shaft should fit any props and couplings you purchase. Some use an allen key to secure the coupling so this may not apply. Don't forget to fix a locknut and thrust washer at either end of the prop tube. If you look at the blogs on this site there are several example of how others have completed similar tasks Hope this helps Please keep asking if you need any further help Dave
I have both huntsman and swordsman, and visually there is no difference. I have been to many boat yards over the last 50 years and seen both of the real boats, and both can have open tear cockpit or rear cabin. The differences lay within. Nice model and I concur with replacing the delaminated section. I use fine glass cloth coated with water based resin to cover my hulls.(eezicoat) No smells so handy when working in the house and dry in about 25 mins.
Go to the fairey owners club site, some great info and pictures. Also look up historic racing boats. You'll be pleasantly surprised by what's out there. Some boat yards have some nice examples for sale and the pictures are good for reference.
Hi good news, I have just checked the area of damage around the shaft exit, on further investigation there is no delamination👍 i think I will re stick the ply sheet down then stregthen the area with modeling tissue and resin. i am fotunate that the wood strips that run from the bow to the stern (i think they give the model grip and straight line stability,help i do not know the correct term), give a natural line to patch upto.i will stengthen the interior with wood strips again resind in.
Richard - good to see you giving the old girl a new lease of life. I agree that it looks like a Precedent Huntsman 31 with the model being 46.5 inches long. I have one as well.
There are differences in hull design between the various full size models which would be difficult to differentiate between in the models but none of the Swordsman have a full height rear cabin, only partial height and no windows.
The Super Swordsman does have a full height rear cabin, like the Huntsman, but the SS has much longer air vents/cowls on the sides. I have never seen a kit or plans for the SS.
I'm actually going to start building a Swordsman 33 soon and am in the process of drawing up the plans.
hi I have been off the air for a while so time for an update. i have sealed and strengthend the hull by using very light glass cloth and Ezy-cote resin. this was very easy to use and i think gave very good results praticularly as i have not done glassing before. the the boat has been painted now and i am just starting to plank the deck. to plank the deck i am using the permenant marker on the edge to give the impresstion of caulking. i am verying the time the marker is in contact with the wood so the mark very's a little on thickness i think this looks more realistic than an even line, on a test piece it looked good. i will add some photo's soon, i keep forgetting to take them🤔
here are some more photo's of the progress.i have finished the painting,and as you can see the decking is to be finished.. once the deck is completed and varnished i will make new windows. I have a few ideas for the windscreen (the visor for a face shield comes with a nice bend!
Hi The D3548/4-1100kv 910watts is outrunner brushless with rear mounting. Depends on the prop size and number of blades you wish to use. On the 3639-1100 the 2 blade 40mm works well, but, I tested a 3 blade 37mm and drop speed and increased amps.
thank you Canabus, i have the motor already for the life of me i can not remember what model it is! i know it is an eflight with i think 524Kv. i got it because it has a lot of torque. i also have a selection of 2 blade X and S props from 35mm to 50mm. i will check and post the size tomorrow. Richard
Hi, another month on and things are still progressing. I have finished planking the deck and have started on the rubbing strake. I am using 3x5mm balsa for the strake and I will be staining it teak. I have bent the strip for the bow and stern, I soaked balsa in hot water for about half an hour. Whilst the strip was soaking i cut strips of masking tape and evanly spaced them around the bow and stern sections ready for the soggy balsa. Then working evenly side to side from the center point, I bent the strip and secured it in place using the pre-installed masking tape. Note work evenly from the center my first effort i worked from the center and concentrated on one side, when i went back to the otherside the strip snapped in the middle (the point of most stress) probably because the wood had Dryed and cooled by the time I went back to it. The strakes are currently relaxing to shape for a few days before I remove the tape.
your motor has a big 8mm shaft, have you thought about how you are going to connect to your propshaft?
It might be too late now, but the early ic shafts where a steep angle, and really a bit far forward under the hull. Imagine the propeller is pushing up, rather than forward. If not too late (its actually not as daunting as you might think) you could do with altering the angle, so the propeller is close to the hull. Work on the fact that 55mm "x" prop will be the biggest, you will end up with 50mm or 52.5mm 👍 I did a lot of testing with my 4 foot 28, hulls are the same almost, we just have to now consider your battery and the resulting amp draw as your esc and motor are rated at 60a
Hi pmdevlin,Thank you for your reply. I have turned the 8mm shaft to 6mm and have sorted the shaft conections, I hope!! unfortunatly it is to late to take your advice and lessen the shaft angle. I will have a little wiggle room as I am using a 8mm shaft tube down from 10mm, I will do what i can to get the prop close to the hull. Thanks also for the avice on the prop size. Richard
Hi Richard, if you have a long rat tail file ca 8mm diameter Or even a long 8mm wood bit or reamer) you can still achieve some adjustment! Worked on my HMS Hotspur; moving the shafts up from about 30° to around 10°. Made a tremendous difference to performance cos it stopped the bow 'digging in'. I made wedges to hold the shaft in the new position and filled in with epoxy glue. Then the usual filling and sanding 😡 Happy wiggling, Doug 😎
Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 cheers Doug
I don't think mine is going to see much action for the foreseeable future.
As I've posted elsewhere I dug it out of the back room a few weeks ago with the intention of giving it a go but due to my abuse the battery (12v 7aH) wouldn't hold a charge and inspection of the rest of the installation really means it all wants replacing.
One of my sons has now moved out so I can soon start to make space for model making and want to start on a smaller Swordsman.
Even with the heavy battery taken out and replaced with LiPos those big Huntsman are cumbersome models to move about and launch etc.
Hi olly49 having just looked up your motor, I bet it goes like stink!!👍 You have approx 2X the Kv i am starting with😭. I am new to electrickery so i am not too sure about the significance of the 6s?? i belive it is to do with discharge rate? Could you enlighten me as to the corrolation between 6s and motor RPM and most importantly speed. I understand the difference between parallel and series for battery coupling but I do not get the S rating.
Hi Richard, The 'S' rating of a LiPo pack stands for the number of 3.7V cells in the pack. Therefore the 6S pack has 22.2V !! The kV rating of a brushless motor stands for '1000RPM per volt'. So, for the sake of illustration, a 1000kV motor would spin at max 22.000 revs at full volts from a 6S !!!! 😲 and will probably draw a lot current! Speed will depend mainly on the size and pitch of the prop, amongst other factors, including hull shape and weight. In this respect a Bigger prop is NOT always Better! The charge / discharge rate is given by the 'C' parameter of the pack. The better quality packs are marked with maximum charge and discharge rates in Amps (A). Cheers Doug 😎
Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 cheers Doug
Hello, another couple of months and a progtrress report is due. I have attached a photo of the electrics finished. All but the permanent engine mount, the current (sorry for the pun)one is adjustable I will make a more stable one in due course. next to finish the top sides, the windows, the windscreen and the mast.
lovely neat clean installation there, makes things so much nicer to work on when it looks like that.
I personally feel your batts will be better in the centre section, similar discussion going on with another thread regarding balance, that stern weigh will cause the bow to raise prematurely, no doubt testing will provide the correct answer
Hi Paul. I had the same thought, but the balance point is just where the cables kink to the port before going through the second Baulkhead. Could you point me in the direction of the other thread regarding balance. i have read quite a lot about balance and seem to get different 'answers' to this.
Hi Richard its in the thread titled motor problem, its not a big feature, but I think you are going to be tail heavy. The misconception is, sometimes people say, oh its planning, so must be fast, but in actual fact its not going fast at all, its actually the balancer, or more importantly the centre of gravity being off, making the bow rise. A good starting point will be with all deck clutter etc, and all fittings etc how does it sit in the water👍
I bought and built my Huntsman back in the late 70's. Decided last year to refurbish her. She is powered by a T600 brushless motor, 2 11.1 v lipos these are positioned midships, x50mm prop, tends to start bow down but when on the plane she looks a beautiful sight. I must say of all the boats I have this is the favorite one.👍