Hello I bought an old swordsman from a friend recently and have started to refurbish it This will be my first foray into refurbishing wood models so I think I will learn a lot! It was a gas-powered boat but this will change to electric. So far, I have sanded the paint back to the wood and have filled the bow section damage. I have found an area around the hole for the prop shaft that has delaminated and come away from the keel. My plan is I am going to use Zap ultra-thin penetrating CA to re laminate the ply sheet. then use cascamite glue to reseal all the joints around the hull. Would this be a good way to repair this damage or is there a better way? I will keep this thread up dated with new photos and progress reports over the coming weeks.
Hi Richard Whilst the delamination appears local chance are the fuel has penetrated well into the laminates together with water. Use whatever you want to patch the damage but a fresh piece of ply will probably be cheaper and more resilient. Cascamite will not work well with cyano. I would, after sorting the damage, use a thin resin poured and swilled around the hull insides to seal, followed by a covering of glass fibre or cloth over the outside impregnated with polyester lay up resin. You can fill any resulting blemishes with car body filler. As the model had an ic engine chances are the prop shaft will be showing signs of its age. Even if the bearings appear ok'ish the shaft is most likely bent or twisted. I suggest whilst you are sorting out the delamination you purchase a new unit of the same size. Most modern kit is metric so your shaft should fit any props and couplings you purchase. Some use an allen key to secure the coupling so this may not apply. Don't forget to fix a locknut and thrust washer at either end of the prop tube. If you look at the blogs on this site there are several example of how others have completed similar tasks Hope this helps Please keep asking if you need any further help Dave
I have both huntsman and swordsman, and visually there is no difference. I have been to many boat yards over the last 50 years and seen both of the real boats, and both can have open tear cockpit or rear cabin. The differences lay within. Nice model and I concur with replacing the delaminated section. I use fine glass cloth coated with water based resin to cover my hulls.(eezicoat) No smells so handy when working in the house and dry in about 25 mins.
Go to the fairey owners club site, some great info and pictures. Also look up historic racing boats. You'll be pleasantly surprised by what's out there. Some boat yards have some nice examples for sale and the pictures are good for reference.
Hi good news, I have just checked the area of damage around the shaft exit, on further investigation there is no delamination👍 i think I will re stick the ply sheet down then stregthen the area with modeling tissue and resin. i am fotunate that the wood strips that run from the bow to the stern (i think they give the model grip and straight line stability,help i do not know the correct term), give a natural line to patch upto.i will stengthen the interior with wood strips again resind in.
Richard - good to see you giving the old girl a new lease of life. I agree that it looks like a Precedent Huntsman 31 with the model being 46.5 inches long. I have one as well.
There are differences in hull design between the various full size models which would be difficult to differentiate between in the models but none of the Swordsman have a full height rear cabin, only partial height and no windows.
The Super Swordsman does have a full height rear cabin, like the Huntsman, but the SS has much longer air vents/cowls on the sides. I have never seen a kit or plans for the SS.
I'm actually going to start building a Swordsman 33 soon and am in the process of drawing up the plans.
hi I have been off the air for a while so time for an update. i have sealed and strengthend the hull by using very light glass cloth and Ezy-cote resin. this was very easy to use and i think gave very good results praticularly as i have not done glassing before. the the boat has been painted now and i am just starting to plank the deck. to plank the deck i am using the permenant marker on the edge to give the impresstion of caulking. i am verying the time the marker is in contact with the wood so the mark very's a little on thickness i think this looks more realistic than an even line, on a test piece it looked good. i will add some photo's soon, i keep forgetting to take them🤔
here are some more photo's of the progress.i have finished the painting,and as you can see the decking is to be finished.. once the deck is completed and varnished i will make new windows. I have a few ideas for the windscreen (the visor for a face shield comes with a nice bend!
Hi The D3548/4-1100kv 910watts is outrunner brushless with rear mounting. Depends on the prop size and number of blades you wish to use. On the 3639-1100 the 2 blade 40mm works well, but, I tested a 3 blade 37mm and drop speed and increased amps.
thank you Canabus, i have the motor already for the life of me i can not remember what model it is! i know it is an eflight with i think 524Kv. i got it because it has a lot of torque. i also have a selection of 2 blade X and S props from 35mm to 50mm. i will check and post the size tomorrow. Richard