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Hi all, I have this afternoon released my model of the Victorian Class C Cutter, "Vanity", from her building board. First surprise was how light it is! I really can't believe how light. Being a plank-on-edge craft she is very deep draughted and with such a light weight she should be able to carry her ballast internally which is much the preferable way for me. Now the really hard stuff begins. Preparing the inside of the hull to take the strains of the various bits of standing rigging, somewhere to fix my patent dual sail winch and get the deck all levelled and cambered correctly. She had a very complex deck, with teak covering boards joggled round the bulwarks, which were simply extensions of her doubled oak frames, then narrow boards (on the model 3/16th") deck panks which follow the covering boards as all good yachts should, but unusually, Vanity did not have a King plank and so there is no joggling of the inner ends of the planks, but they must, of course, all meet perfectly. The deck furniture was also rather splendid as she had a roundhouse aft, glazed and several companionways and deck lights, plus the usual Samson post and bitts. Her tiller was a huge lump of mahogany about 6 feet long. The level of woodwork throughout was like this:-https://model-boats.com/media/np/s/200/1493829043 That's how she looked when I lived aboard her in Burnham-on-Crouch
Just made my first dovetail corner joint on one of the decklights. Seemed to work out OK once I'd I'd got the shape of both parts in my head. Used the vice jaws as a guide and a piercing saw to cut the joints. My Aliphatic glue had dried up, so I had to use PVA, so no pics till tomorrow in the daylight, In 1/16th scale the decklight over the main saloon (see above picture) is 4ft. x 2ft-6in....3"x 1.875". Nowhere near big enough to fiddle in my sail winch system so I think she may have to be a rudder only job. No sweat really. I had hours of good sailing with an old plastic 375, rudder only. Unless I can work out an invisible method of lifting a section of decking. AND keeping it waterproof!
Wonderful wonderful wonderful 👍 Do you have a razor saw for for cutting an access hatch perhaps? I have an idea for 'hiding' the hatch and keeping it waterproof, have the same problem with access to the rudder on my Graf Spee. More tomorrow. Servus(!) Doug 😎
Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 cheers Doug
Thanks, Doug. Do you know I don't possess a razor saw? I have always found them to be quite useless. Well that was years ago, I have been a professional modelmaker ever since, until I retired. I either use a junior hacksaw, a piercing saw or 2 or a disc in a minidrill. I rarely sand stuff, I always file or scrape. Doing it for a living tends to show up where the best ways or tools are, but it's entirely up to the individual, of course. I am interested in your invisible removable deck section idea though.
I find the latest ones very good, < 0.5mm, stainless steel in various blade shapes and tooth pitch. Admittedly I bought them primarily for modifying kits for 'plastic magic', including cutting access hatches! Haven't translated my idea into reality yet, will see about some drawings tonight. Don't know about 100% invisible but we'll see. Now I have to sort out my roses, rotten weather here, too much rain and freezing at night 🤔
Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 cheers Doug
Indoors, I can carry on with Vanity by making her deck furniture and boom. Here's the start of the aft decklight. Note proper dovetail joint and mortice and tenon joints in the glazed lid. So satisfying when a piece holds itself together even before you glue it! https://model-boats.com/media/np/s/200/1493997414 https://model-boats.com/media/np/s/200/1493997425
This one is (for you furriners) 80mm long by 50 wide. This is the tiddler between the roundhouse/tiller area and the companion aft. Then there's a bigger one forward of the companion and then a forward companion forward of the mast. Mast bitts, Samson posts for the bowsprit and prism bricks in the deck. Fortunately Vanity's deck was laid a la workboat, all planks parallel unlike most yachts. I shall pay for that simplicity when I deck Bloodhound. That has swept decks with mitred toeboards round every item of deck furniture, joggled into a King plank fore and aft and the main companion is shell topped, requiring steamed, tapered planks all the way across, but I tend to like the fiddly bits. The finish on that is cellulose sanding sealer. When the other light is done I'll varnish it all very thinly.
Ah, my replacement copies of Plank-on-Frame Models have arrived. Indistinguishable from the copies I lent and never got back. I simply cannot be without these books. I've had them since I was wee loddy in Devon, when my love of quality model boats began. I was a member of the Thames Ship Lovers and Ship Model Society and got my first ever proper commission through them. Where are they now? They were one of the main London based clubs at one point, meeting in a Pub in the West End on a Tuesday night. I believe the magazine Model Shipwright came about through those meetings. Now, even that magnificent organ has gone. What is it about model boaters? No TSLSMS, no Scale Sail, no Model Shipwright. And no doubt Maritime Models has gone in Greenwich and Model Shipwrights in Putney. For a maritime nation all this is a disgrace.
Hmmm, well, Model Shipwright is some kind of car crash blog format that is virtually unreadable and maritime Models is an online only outfit. Both, therefore, gone as were. Model Shipwright had gone digital I believe a while back but I can't find it any more. I did download a few copies, but they were on my old PC and got lost.
Thanks, anyway, Doug, but Model Shipwright never used to sink to the level of building a Midwest kit fer Krissakes!