The boat I am constructing at the moment, Aeronaut Jenny, requires a few ply parts to be installed that need to be curved. These are not the hull sheeting etc as that is thin enough to curve without problems, but the transom and a few other small parts also need to be curved slightly to fit. I could glue these parts in place using clamps etc to force them into the correct shape, or steam them. But the question is- will the steaming de-laminate the ply. The other parts on the boat that I have steamed, the stringers, are not ply so there was no problem there.
Hi Chris, A way is to score the back of the piece to be curved with a sharp blade, depending on the thickness of the ply. Also lay a few pieces of kitchen paper on a flat surface and go over the piece with a rolling pin pressing hard to get a curve into the ply.
Wetting the ply, test some scrap ply and see if it delaminates, if not wet it and put it round a former such as a paint can hold it with bands or straps until dry.
Hi Chris Depends on how long you steam for. As has been suggested try on a scrap piece to find the best length of time to steam. You need to aim for the ply to be just soft enough to follow the curve you require then clamp over a former and allow to dry, Sorry but it really is trial and error. Sometimes it is better to use a solid infill and sand to shape for very sharp curves. please let us know how you fare with the process Dave
Thanks for all the replies. I had forgotten all about the rolling and scoring techniques-well over 35 years since my last model boat build. I have now rolled a couple of small parts and successfully fitted them, so thanks. Haven't worked on the transom yet but the curve is not very great so I think I will giving the scoring method a go.
Hi Octoman, I usual soak until pliant enough, then bend and clamp over a former, leaving over night same as others have suggested then glue and clamp to prepared formers, I personally have not tried steaming them. I added some pictures of a Funnel I made for my HMS Princess Beatrix model, as you an see it takes quite a curve with out splitting. :-P
Glad you like my efforts RNinMunich, here and on the internet, the longer link in your post, still researching HMS Princess Beatrix even know the model is built, in the process of changing her railings, from plastic to brass. I found De Schelde her, builder very helpful even sent me a 50th scale drawings of her hull, too late in the build to convert my hull shape, to match, but she turned out to be a very stable boat in the long run. Did offer them some picture of her when completed, but got no responce.
Hi Peter, De Schelde is now part of the 'Damen Schelde Naval Shipbuilding (DSNS)' group. http://www.schelde.com/ Since I don't have (and don't want!) a Google account I can't access your build photos 🤔 Would love to see them here in a Build Blog!😉 I know what you mean about 'never finished'! I first built my H class 1936 destroyer HMS Hotspur when I was about 14, I'm now 65, and she's currently undergoing about her 4th refit / rebuild, each time with more modern materials and electronics. In the old days I had to build a lot of electronics myself; speed controller, relay switching board etc. All good fun 😉 For Hotspur's funnel I used a similar technique to you, with 0.5mm 3ply. The original version was done with 1/32 balsa sheet! Cheers Doug 😎
"Retirement is when you stop living at work - and start working at living!" i.e. boat modelling!" 舰队的海军上将 😉 Doug
So glad they worked for you, have been back to PB site and added link to all folders on OneDrive as well as google+, just to cover all the bases. Thanks for the idea 😁. Most of her cargo LCAs and LCMs and launch ramps, I did in mainly plastic card, bar the Keel of the LCAs were constructed in balsa, for ease. One or two of the LCAs had plywood sides & deck, but which even I couldn't say 😋