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Hi all, Needing to consider aluminium solder I looked it up and there seems to be something new around. It's only 300 degree C solder and fluxless. Cheapish too. I've ordered some and will report back. "Film...at 11" as they say.
I'm thinking it could be ideal for the stern corners of the Hornet II model. My alternative was to make a press tool, which I didn't really want to get involved in. Apparently with this stuff you can even use a big soldering iron for smaller bits. The beauty of 300 C is there's no risk of melting the object being soldered and they claim there's no difference in hardness, elasticity, brittleness, etc, so clean up is easy, all objections to the original ally solder. I once used the original with complete success, then next time, complete failure. Maybe this new stuff will be the answer to a maiden's prayer, as my Dad would have said.
Well, it arrived today and I tried it out on a part that echos the corner shape I'd need to make on the Hornet stern deck. Here's a picture. It really was that easy! Unreservedly recommended! How nice to find a new material one can rely on.
This test piece is about 2" square, Colin. The solder went in from the inside of the piece and was then filed to finish and sandpapered then polished. The joint is the lower left one as the bloody picture, being done on my wife's 'phone, turned itself round, despite being corrected when uploaded.
Martin can you put up a link to this solder please. I used the original Lumiweld yrs ago (55) to fix the broken off crankcase nose on an Allbon Javelin Worked well and still have it running. Coated the repair with Araldite to ensure airtightness. I still have a bit of it but would like some lower temp stuff. Much obliged if you can do.
I tried Lumiweld years ago on an all aluminium model of an Albatross speedboat in 1/6th scale. The first joint was perfect, but I was never able to make a second, just burned the flux. This has no flux separately and you don't need the stainless wire brush either. So easy.