I know you are not allowed to use 35mghz for boats or cars (ie) surface craft. But it seems to be 2.4 ghz for most things now. I used to use 27am then 27fm and then 40am & fm and have now progressed to 2.4 ghz as that is the norm now on most things. You can pick up a new set for a reasonable price.
Hi Nick Yes Boatshed is spot on regarding 35Mhz, strictly for flying machines. If you are buying new then 2.4Ghz is the best way to go providing your model is on the surface, if it's a submersible then you need to use 40Mhz or 27Mhz as 2.4Ghz radio waves will not penetrate the water. There are many flavours of 2.4Ghz and they are not usually compatible with other systems even from the same manufacturer. If you have a local model shop or can attend a show then you can see and test what is available. You will also be able to get support should the equipment not work correctly. If you intend to have several models and want a rx in each to use with the one Tx then it s wise to see if single Rx can be bought and the cost, some can be expensive. Dave
Hi All, don't think that that is quite what Nick meant! Most TX/RX sets nowadays are full of tricks and mixers for the fly boys; first setup question: 'Fixed wing or rotary?' for example! So - Nick: essentially it doesn't matter what you use (except the 35MHz rule of course!) but modifying all the aircraft mixer routines to suit boats is not for the faint hearted or novice. Therefore for your purposes I would recommend a relatively simple 2 to 4 channel set intended for trucks and cars. That gives you the basic control functions, including motor reverse, plus possibility to control a few specials, lighting or sound (horns) for instance. 2.4GHz is the future, but not without it's own pitfalls, as you've already discovered 🤔 I still use my old MC-10 40MHz set; - a) Cos it still works 👍😉 b) It's quick to set up for trials of a new boat or function, 👍 c) the more people move to 2.4GHz the less chance I have of getting any interference! 👍😊 (I have several TX/RX crystal sets anyway 😊 Bought up anything I could find locally the last few years) d) One of my models is a submarine! e) It can also store the setup configuration for 20 models. 👍 f) has no binding rigmarole. 👍👍 Cheers and very happy modelling / sailing, Doug 😎
"Retirement is when you stop living at work - and start working at living/boat modeling!" 舰队的海军上将 😉 Doug
I started out with a futaba transmitter ,then when I got more boats found that I needed another ,big mistake for me ,a transmitter with multi model memory is a must , some of the cheaper models for less than £50 are adequate ,although they are for aircraft ,I just ignore most features , the turnigy one from hobbyking at £45.13 p is ideal and receivers are reasonable too . Get the right mode , .it has the usual things you may need ,end point adjustment ,travel ,reverse etc .
Hi Sparkman I have the Turnigy IA6 V2 with rpm, voltage and temperature sensors, great setup. The throttle channel is setup for IC planes, so if you require central position for forward and reverse you require opposite . Mode 1 IC throttle on the right is 9114000020-0. Mode 2 IC throttle on the left is 9114000019-0. The correct sensors are voltage 9114000013-0, temperature 9114000013-0 and optical rpm is 9114000026-0. The ones shown on the transmitter page have the wrong connectors and require a special lead. Canabus PS the Flysky IA6 is the same unit, so you tube shows how to setup the sensors.