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>> Home > Forum > Electrical Related > Radio in a yacht
Radio in a yacht
(426 views)
Author Message
Westquay
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 218
17th May 2018 20:22  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/41841

Hi all,
Whilst I can make almost anything, I have absolutely no idea how to install modern R/C gear in a model, much less a yacht.
I have an Orange Rx which has 6 channels for some reason, but I only need 2. BTW, when did functions become channels? I grew up with proportional being 2 channels per function. Anyway, that's a 2.4 doodah. I have a GWS sail winch a drum jobbie. I also have a few different servos for the rudder, but I don't know what voltage they are. I will stuff 4 pen cells in a holder and therefore get 4.8 volts, is that right? This will all fit a treat on a removable piece of ply which I can secure with a slider at one end and a wingnut at tother. Said ply with all gear will slide through the main companionway with that item removed.
So, how do I know which servos will work for steering? Will they work with a 2.4 Gg set? Or must I buy new? Will the Rx be OK sited near the battery pack and servos? And how the hell does one "bind" the Tx to the Rx? I've had the Tx for 3 years and it ain't yet out of its box. It's a Spektrum Dx5e. I'm using NiMhs in the battery pack as I don't understand LiPos and will only be using the yacht occasionally. And I can charge NiMhs with a wall charger. I have fancy metallic blue thing that does everything, but the Chenglish instructions defeated me, so it hasn't been out of its box either. (Get the impression I ain't big on working models, folks?)

Any info/instructions/encouragement gratefully recieved.

And anything helpful about rigging the damned thing under the deck is welcome too! No idea where to start there. I have very limited space through companionways and deck lights which are all removable, but smallish, if evenly spaced.

Cheers,
Martin

Westquay
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 218
17th May 2018 20:28  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/41842

Oh I forgot to mention that the servo plugs have little tongues on them for, presumably, polarity safety, but the Orange Rx doesn't allow for these, so which way up should the plug go if I clip off the tongues?

Cheers,.

Martin

stormin
(Sub-Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 18
18th May 2018 07:40  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/41851

Sorry Martin just read your post, I'm no expert however just to start the ball rolling with my little imput:-
All orange receivers can run on anything between 3.7 to 9.6volts,
The wire configuration is always:- top is signal, middle is positive and negative is bottom, if you look on one side of your receiver you will see a very small "s" embossed into plastic case denoting signal.
Binding is dead easy, may I suggest take a look on YouTube under "binding orang rx" and all will be revealed (a picture paints a thousand words).
Sorry I can't be of more help Martin however I'm sure we will receive more input soon👍
Norman.


There is no dark side of the moon really
Matter of fact......it's all dark.
Haverlock
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 431
18th May 2018 08:14  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/41852

I would avoid using pen cells you really need rechargeable since they can deliver more current without sagging and a sail winch when pulling in a sail can require quite a bit.

The function/channel bit gets me also I remember when you needed 2 channels per surface ( leave out single channel) back when reed was the norm. Early propo systems used function because 4 function was the equivalent of an 8 channel reed setup.( actually 12 channel since it included trims).

It now seems that function has been replaced with channel just cos.


"that's not a bug its just an undocumented creature."

Sir Terence David John "Terry" Pratchett, OBE (28 April 1948 - 12 March 2015)
Westquay
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 218
18th May 2018 09:41  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/41857

Thanks, Norman and Haverlock. When I say pen cells, I mean rechargeable, I couldn't remember the daft modern description of their size (AA, is it?). Having said that I can't even remember the old description now. U16, was it?
Anyway those little things that go in clocks and my DAB radio. I bought a load cheap from Lidl's and blow me if they ain't still going strong.
If the rechargeables are 1.2 Volts, is there a holder for 5 cells to get 6 Volts? And whilst the Orange Rx can take it and the GWS winch works on 6 volts, what about A.N.Other servo for steering? Can that take 6 volts?

Cheers,
Martin

Haverlock
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 431
18th May 2018 10:16  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/41858

most 6V sail winches will work fine on 4.8 volts. if you NEED 6V then things get way more interesting. Check to see what voltage your receiver can handle ( some have built in BECs some not). in the event your radio needs nominal 5V ( 4.8) and sail winch 6V then you need a 6V power supply and a BEC to power the receiver. However some sail winches have a built in BEC so you can power your radio via the winch. ( BEC= battery eliminator circuit in effect a voltage regulator )


"that's not a bug its just an undocumented creature."

Sir Terence David John "Terry" Pratchett, OBE (28 April 1948 - 12 March 2015)
stormin
(Sub-Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 18
18th May 2018 10:33  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/41859

Not sure about the 6v in your winch Martin all I can say is one of my many many models (boats planes and cars) is a one meter racing class yacht, now I can't remember for the life of me which winch servo I fitted, it was 15 years ago.
I do not race the yacht now just pootle about the lake and all I have ever used is four Duracell AA 4.8v batteries (other makes are available) in the boat serving the receiver the winch and rudder, the winch works fine, ok in strong winds if tacking X wind the sails may not draw in quickly but I normally wait until I'm turning and the boat is momentarily into wind before winching in (hope that makes sense).
I'm sure the serious racing boys will be able to explain further.
I can remember using a dedicated 4.8v battery serving my retract servo in a large scale aircraft many years ago but can't remember at the mo' how it was wired into the system.
Norman.


There is no dark side of the moon really
Matter of fact......it's all dark.
Westquay
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 218
18th May 2018 11:16  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/41861

Haverlock, my Orange receiver can run on anything from 3V to 9. something apparently. Just seen a good Aussie review of it and he loved it. Reckons there are thousands out there all working great, albeit on shorter ranges. It's DSM2 like my Spektrum TX, but I don't have a clue what that's all about, as long as the TX and Rx are the same, I presume.

Norman, you sound like me. I have had loads of different models. Never finished an aircraft because of the cost of insurance and club membership, but I have had them whilst deciding and I built an R/C car before there were such things as kits for them, but couldn't afford a working engine. Mine ticked over smoothly or screamed its nuts off, but nought in between. But the car had suspension from a leaf spring aft to adjustable torsion bars for the front. The spine of the chassis was two strips of stair runner making a backbone from which all else hung. It went very well if I could find anywhere big enough for the screaming engine! But I came back to boats as being cheap and yachts as they don't need lots of lecktrickery, which I hate, although I have got some models of historic speedboats in which I want to fit equally historic motors of which I have a small collection. Truth is, like my slot cars, I prefer to restore than create these days, although I have made the masters for dozens of car body kits over the years and am currently finishing a 1/6th scale Vincent Black Shadow pattern all in brass.

Great to know that a holder full of four AA rechargeables will do for the boat. Thanks for that info. Now to see if I can find that nice new box full of Tx! Oh dear, I've moved since I bought it.

Cheers,
Martin

Haverlock
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 431
18th May 2018 12:25  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/41866

well you could use a LIPO battery and an independent BEC that way you have a way better power supply than pen cells in clips ( potential resistances on clips)


"that's not a bug its just an undocumented creature."

Sir Terence David John "Terry" Pratchett, OBE (28 April 1948 - 12 March 2015)
stormin
(Sub-Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 18
18th May 2018 12:28  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/41867

Hi you guys,
Your car creations sound fantastic Martin.
Like most of us oldies on here I've used all the radio makes over the years, I used to fly on 27 before it went to 35, so how long ago was that?.
The way forward now,especially with boats, and medium sized aircraft is to use the like of spectrum dx6i which even the old model holds up to 10 models (the new one holds 250 models😳).
I have two transmitters one for boats and one for planes, I only have two because of the boats really need a throttle return spring on the left stick.
Then,as Haverlock mentioned, just buy orange rx receivers @ £9 each for individual boats or models, although I do us a more expensive orange receiver for the planes, but they only work out to £20 / £30. Happy days.
Norman.


There is no dark side of the moon really
Matter of fact......it's all dark.
kmbcsecretary
(Admiral)





Forum Posts: 157
18th May 2018 18:17  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/41881

when it comes to rigging yachts using a drum winch you will need line tensioners to keep the rigging line from coming of the drum and to use the old push me pull me set up ie the control line is in a loop starting and finishing at the winch drum
this pic shows the winch drum in my mascotte and you can see the two spring tensioners for the control line and you can also see the exit and entry points for the control line.
i use 50lb carb fishing line for the control wire


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Former tug nut now switched to sail because of health
ronrees
(Sub-Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 9
19th May 2018 09:56  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/41901

Hi Martin,
I think I answered your original post on another Boat blog site!

Ron.


Ron Rees
Westquay
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 218
20th May 2018 00:23  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/41909

Right chaps, firstly many thanks for your suggestions. I won't be doing LiPos, because the charging is too complicated for me. I can't read the instructions of my fancy charger so it remains in its box. I forgot that I can get NiMhs in sealed packs, so that'll be something I get hold of, although the shop had more out of stock than in!
Secretary, I liked the look of that servo you linked me to and will be getting one.
Norman, I have today picked up my Spektrum DX5e from my daughter's place where it was in store. I found it whilst looking for something else as always! I already have the Orange Rx and can now try binding it, when I have some batteries for both items. I also have 27meg gear, three different lots and WILL be using it in my classic speedboat models. I waste as little as possible!

I have now settled on a continuous loop for the sail control, which doesn't need spring tension, though haven't decided a good way to attach the sheets to the loop or how to tell when the loop has gone as far as it dare before getting a bit mixed up. But I have sorted out the plank system by making one section trap a second, both of which can be removed separately. I found a gear and shaft out of an old printer which I chucked in the lathe and turned a groove in for the loop line. Then I found a use finally for that 6mm ball race I've had in my drill drawer for years! It was an interference fit on the shaft. I had some PTFE plate for another task and in some spare I made a hole that the ball race pushes into a treat, below it an identical plate supports the other end of the shaft, PTFE being very low friction. All this levels the return "pulley" with the servo drum. I only have a limited length of run for the loop line, but it should be enough. It's all I got anyway. About 10" between pulley and drum centres. If I attach the sheet part way down the boom instead of the end I should have enough movement. So, progress. My son-in-law supplied some bike gear cable for the rudder actuation as the rudder stock is at an extreme, typically cutter, angle. A hunt through the supplies (Pringles tins) gave up enough aluminium tube to guide the cable. Alas, I installed with lots of epoxy the rudder tube and it turns out to be 4.5mm bore! Gawd knows where that came from. The tube built into the back of the rudder itself is 4 mm. So that'll be some lathe work ahead.
All good fun between the gardening chores.

Cheers,
Martin

Westquay
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 218
20th May 2018 00:25  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/41910

Ron, you certainly cleared up some points for me. I sometimes post in two places as sometimes posts get missed or not answered, but I have had a glut of help in both places this time, for which I am very grateful.

Martin