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>> Home > Forum > Electrical Related > LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
(9756 views)
Author Message
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
28th May 2018 13:32  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42219

Hi, everyone:
I have a Hobby Engine Richardson Tugboat that I’m about 98% happy with just as it came out of the box. The 2% that I’d like to add would be to rebuild the main mast & replace the “dummy” mast-mounted navigation lights with LEDs. The mast has a partially open back with molded-on ladder rungs. I plan to use the open area for wiring, then add a back cover & bent wire rungs. The boat has working red & green sidelights, working rear deck area floodlights, a working searchlight on the pilot house roof & working pilot house interior lighting. Each of the “white” lights have individual on & off function switches on the transmitter, which is excellent. But for some odd reason the red & green sidelights are turned on & off separately. Ideally, what I would like to do is combine the sidelights so they switch on & off together with one transmitter switch & use the now “spare” transmitter switch to turn the new mast-mounted “white” lights on & off. I realize my plan may not be possible but I really would like my idea to work. Note that the tug has a short mast attached to the aft pilot house railing. This mast has two dummy navigation lights & the main mast has three. I plan to remove the short mast & add two aft-facing lights to the main mast. I’ll need help with wiring power correctly for the five new LEDs. I’d like to tap into the boat’s 7.2 volt battery power, but it might be best to add a separate battery box. I’d really appreciate ideas. Can anyone offer advice about my project? Is it feasible to do or should I leave well enough alone? Thanks.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
kmbcsecretary
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 211
28th May 2018 20:58  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42243

Although I've never had any dealings with these type of boats , I'm pretty sure that they are built in such a way that they aren't easily modified without ripping out everything and starting again.
As the electrics are built into the circuit board it's not easy to identify each circuit function without having a electronic wizz kid at your side.
I think the easiest option would be to put in a separate switch,battery ect.
Ron


Former tug nut now switched to sail because of health
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
28th May 2018 21:57  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42248

Evenin' Pete, basically Ron's right, but there may be a way, 😉if you have a simple multimeter! I'll get back to you tomorrow when I've thought it through.
Cheers,Doug 😎
BTW; I'm a retired electronics engineer 👍


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
29th May 2018 21:44  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42269

Thanks, guys! I appreciate your input. I was actually planning on using a multimeter to try to identify which wire goes what. This particular model has three different wiring harnesses coming up from below. Each harness has a unique connector that plugs into sockets on the underside of the pilot house. I appreciate this feature because it allows for complete removal of the pilot house. An added bonus for my idea of adding LED navigation lights to the mast is that I also have free access to the pins in each connector. It seems logical that I could determine which wires go where through the process of elimination, although this method may cause damage from shorts or it may take so long to figure out that I’ll die of extreme old age before I crack the code. I’m not certain but the bottom cover of the pilot house may be removable which would make the job dead simple by drawing a pinout diagram for each connector. I love a challenge as long as it’s not destructive.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
29th May 2018 21:50  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42270

To Doug: help from an expert would be terrific. I’d really enjoy your input, but ideas from anyone would be like finding a pot of gold over & over again. I’m so glad I found this website & all of the friendly folks affiliated with it. Thanks again.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
29th May 2018 23:33  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42275

Hi Pete, Good to hear you've got a multimeter👍 and also that the board has unique plugs and sockets. I only have the earlier version of this Tug (the Southampton) with 40MHz RC and no lights or frills 😭
Would help enormously if the bottom cover can be removed so you can see which leads connect to the 'side' lights - the red and green navigation lights.
I am assuming that the existing lights have LEDs and not bulbs? Please correct me if I'm wrong. It makes a difference. And you want to add 5 new white LEDs on one circuit powered from one of the existing switch channels.
OK. been a hard day today and now 00:30 here so I'll finish this and send you the gen tomorrow. Will probably take longer to describe than to do.😉
Cheers, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
Fred
(Commander)





Forum Posts: 55
30th May 2018 09:07  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42279

Have a look at this
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz It may be of some help

Fred


That's all right, Mr Ryan. My Morse is so rusty, I could be sending him dimensions on Playmate of the Month.
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
30th May 2018 10:47  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42281

Good stuff Fred, 👍
I have something similar that I will use to help Pete,
When we know where to connect up!
More later, cheers Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
30th May 2018 14:42  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42284

Here’s a starboard elevation of a typical modern tug’s pilot house & mast arrangement. I’d like to use this arrangement on my tug as well, including the aft-facing yellow towing light. I originally thought 5 LEDs would be used on the mast, but as the sketch shows there are actually 6 LEDs. I drew a green box around each LED to help them stand out. Thanks again, everyone.


Attached Files - Click To View Large


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
30th May 2018 15:26  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42285

Hi Pete, Okaaay!
That complicates the issue a little. 'I think I better think it out again'!
Now we have to decide which lights you want to switch together as some would not normally be on simultaneously; e.g. Anchor and running lights.

Do you perchance have a layout drawing of the circuit board and the plugs and sockets? 'snipped' out of the instruction book perhaps.
Or a good focussed photo might do.
As I understand it you currently have the following switchable functions, correct?
1. red running light,
2. green running light, to be combined with the red,
3. white deck lights, How many individual LEDs?
4. white searchlight,
5. white interior lights, How many individual LEDs?
Need to know the numbers of LEDs in 3 and 5 to estimate the current the switching circuits can handle!!!

Maybe we could combine some others as well, e.g.
deck lights and towing light or anchor light?
Stern light with the red and green?
Deck lights with the interior lights?
Interior lights with the running lights?

Let me know what you prefer, (I know... ALL singing, ALL dancing and beer from a tap on the side😁) cheers, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
31st May 2018 15:12  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42309

Hi Pete, Some basics.
If you want to run 5 LEDs from 7.2V this is the circuit you need. See pdf.
Click the file icon and then 'Download' in the top left of the disply to view and download the file as pdf.
If you want to drive 6 LEDs you insert the 6th in the third branch and change the resistor to 62 Ohm, like the first two branches.
Current drawn remains 60mA, power consumption drops a few mW.
Any dropping resistor fitted on the circuit board must be shorted out or replaced with a tinned copper wire link, if possible. More on that later.
Instructions for wiring up, and finding out where!, follow this evening.
cheers Doug 😎
BTW: does this look like the circuit board you have? (Last two pics.)
Same part # JH-003R ?


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
5th Jun 2018 11:26  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42430

Hi, Doug:
You’ve been a busy man! I certainly appreciate your efforts & assistance. I haven’t removed the tug’s deck or the bottom cover of its pilot house to look at the circuit boards as yet but I’ll do it later on this morning.

I’ve included a marked-up scan from the tug’s instruction booklet to show the transmitter’s current use of its function switches. I also suggested a way to add LED navigation lights to the mast (in two groups) & control them with two of the transmitter switches. Please let me know if the scan or my poor printing are unreadable & I’ll try again.

The table below lists the factory-designed transmitter function switches & their original purpose.

TABLE ONE - EXISTING CONFIGURATION
Switch L2 - Controls (1) clear LED pilot house roof searchlight.
Switch L3 - Controls (1) red LED port sidelight.
Switch L4 - Controls (2) clear LED aft deck lights.

Switch R2 - Controls (1) clear pilot house interior light*.
Switch R3 - Controls (1) green LED starboard sidelight.
Switch R4 - Controls the horn.

*This appears to be an incandescent bulb.

Table Two suggests a way of combining some of the existing functions with two groups of new mast LEDs, then using (2) of the existing transmitter switches to control them. For mast lights I’d like to add (1) yellow LED mast top anchor light, (3) clear LED forward-facing navigation lights (1) clear LED aft-facing navigation light & (1) clear LED aft-facing anchor light.

TABLE TWO - MODIFIED CONFIGURATION
Switch L2 - [No change]
Switch L3 - Controls (1) red LED port sidelight, (1) green LED
starboard sidelight, (1) aft-facing clear LED anchor
light & (1) aft-facing clear LED navigation light.
Switch L4 - [No change]
Switch R2 - [No change]
Switch R3 - Controls (1) yellow LED mast top light & (3) forward-
facing clear LED navigation lights.
Switch R4 - [No change]

Even though an actual tugboat probably wouldn’t have all of her mast lights turned on together, I don’t mind if they’re all on at once on my tug.

The modifications above result in having (4) LEDs controlled by
Switch L3 & (4) LEDs controlled by Switch R3. If these changes are possible then adding the (6) new LEDs should be relatively easy, plus all lighting & the horn are still powered by the tug’s 7.2 volt battery. I plan to upgrade the battery to a much higher mAh rating to help offset the extra drain from the additional LEDs.

Doug? If you’re still awake after reading this what are your thoughts? Is my plan feasible?

Thanks again for your help.

Pete


Attached Files - Click To View Large


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
5th Jun 2018 11:58  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42431

Hi Pete, sorry no attachment found!🤔
Or did you just type copy from the booklet?
Is there a pic of the circuit board and wiring in the booklet?
Maybe the board is marked with L2 etc to identify the outputs!
That would be too easy though 😉
The bulb: can you see it from outside?
A white LED should be 'see through' or milky and look like the attached pic. Ciao, Doug 😎


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
5th Jun 2018 13:55  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42433

Sorry about that, Doug. My not-so-nimble fingers hit the “Post “ button before I finished everything. I think everything is posted now.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
5th Jun 2018 13:57  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42434

I’d rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
5th Jun 2018 14:15  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42436

OK: just off out to restock the 'bottles in front of me' 😉
More later. No pic of the circuit board in the booklet??
Maybe you can photograph it, both sides if possible.
Would help to us to discover the dropping resistors in each output circuit.
Where they are and what values.
Cheers Doug


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
5th Jun 2018 15:18  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42437

Doug, there are no photos or drawings of either circuit board in the manual. So far I’ve managed to get a look at & a photo of the board concealed in the pilot house. It looks absolutely identical to one of the photos you attached earlier. I can’t tell if there are any “dropping resistors” or not; I recognize that it has what I think are surface-mounted components & a couple of ICs on it but that’s about it. My expertise was in mechanical & industrial design.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
5th Jun 2018 20:41  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42443

OK Pete, I've started trying to write down some instructions as to how we might find the correct wires and modify them. More soon, ciao Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
5th Jun 2018 21:32  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42446

Thanks again, Doug. By the way, the light on the pilot house ceiling definitely looks like an incandescent bulb. It’s hard to see through the dark tinted windows but I managed to get a photo. Hopefully you can make out the shape of the bulb & see that it resembles a typical small Christmas tree light bulb. I can’t imagine why that kind of bulb was chosen when LEDs were used everywhere else. Very odd.


Attached Files - Click To View Large


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
5th Jun 2018 21:43  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42447

There is only one ceiling light in the pilot house.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
5th Jun 2018 22:05  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42448

Weird😲
Can you get at it to change it for an LED??


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
6th Jun 2018 01:31  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42452

I don’t see why not. I assume an LED would operate at a cooler temperature than an incandescent bulb, too, even a small low wattage Christmas tree lightbulb. I was thinking about taking the pilot house apart to replace the dark-tinted plastic windows with clear ones because as it is the helm, binnacle & other details are almost impossible to see. Not only could I replace the existing ceiling light, I could also make openings for routing the mast light LED wiring through.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
6th Jun 2018 03:13  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42453

Hi Pete,

I have the Southampton too. which came with no lights!
I got it about 6 years ago.
Anyway I carefully took the top off the pilot house using a single edge razor! You could give that a try! I also painted mine to resemble the WYEFORCE!
Good luck, Oh I also painted the inside of the pilot house as well!

Ed


Attached Files - Click To View Large


"Fair winds calm Seas"
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
6th Jun 2018 05:53  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42456

It looks great! It really stands out from the crowd...er, fleet of similar tugs. How long did it take for you to remove the pilot house roof? Thanks.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
7th Jun 2018 02:48  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42478

Hi Pete,

When I worked on mine. I believe it took me about an hour or so!
Just be careful with the seams! take your time.
Start from the rear of the Pilot house!
I first took apart the pilot house.
I took the smoke stacks off!
Then slowly pride the rear of the pilot house!
NOTE: on mine they had only glued the glue points!
If you look carefully, You can see them.
They're located at each corner!
Maybe you can also use a wide xacto.
That's what I used back then.....
Good Luck!


Attached Files - Click To View Large


"Fair winds calm Seas"
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
7th Jun 2018 05:32  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42479

Thanks, Ed. Now I have some helpful advice I can use to get the roof off. Excellent!

Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
7th Jun 2018 06:09  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42480

HI Guys, took me about 10 seconds to get the roof, which was grey not white, off my old 40MHz Southampton 😊
It wasn't glued on at all 😲 Just ran round the seam with my thumbnail and it popped off 😁 All the rest was screwed together. Only some of the detailing 'stuff' was glued. Some was just 'plugged in'.
More later Pete, cheers Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
7th Jun 2018 13:06  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42486

Good morning, guys. I got the pilot house roof off of my boat by using bits of advice from both of you. I looked closely at the seam where the roof attaches & sure enough found a very fine gap.

Doug: I trimmed my fingernails just yesterday so my built-in scraper/screwdriver/seam separator, i.e. thumbnail, is too short to be of use for a while.

Ed: Following your lead I carefully worked an ultra-thin blade into the seam & after about 30 seconds I had the roof off without damaging a thing. Excellent!

I’m impressed at how well the roof presses in place. Only the paint had “glued” the roof on. Looking at the photo you can clearly see the ceiling bulb (white wires), which is the same kind used for HO scale & larger locomotive headlights, among other things. The blue wires near my thumb (notice the neatly-trimmed thumbnail) run up to the search light on the roof. You can also see the black & red & black & green wires running to the port & starboard side lights. I think I’ll add a multi-pin connector as part of my overall upgrade plan for the tug so that I can completely remove the roof if I want to without risking damage to those fine wires.

Thanks again to both of you for your helpful guidance. You’re both awesome!

Pete


Attached Files - Click To View Large


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
7th Jun 2018 13:22  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42487

Afternoon Pete, Not awesome 😉 just 'Been there - Done that'!
Albeit on older versions.

So; now we're getting somewhere. Good idea with the connector 👍
I plan to do that with mine as well. I took it apart to investigate adding smoke, lights and sound. And possibly a twin ESC rudder mixer.
Project got shelved when I got deeply involved by a couple of renovation / conversion jobs. 🤔 You've inspired me to bump her up the 'To Do List' a ways 😉
Now we should be able to trace the wires back to the circuit board😊
Will send a Step by Step procedure tonight. Gotta go fix a rotten fence now 😡 Cheers Doug 😎
PS: I was also impressed with the quality and fit of the mouldings. Good tooling 👍
PPS: You may find this thread useful
https://model-boats.com/builds/view/34234?goto=34235
Neil has also been down a similar road. 'Jarvo' as well, who came up with some useful tips, esp re locations of hidden screws😉


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
onetenor
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 405
8th Jun 2018 02:56  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42521

Doug that pilot house light could be a fusible link. Has it got a white painted tip? If so it is fusible for sure. If not it is a" could be" fuse. Trouble is you can't test it LOL😁👍 You could;if you can find one,fit a resetting led fuse.🤓
John /O/T

pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
8th Jun 2018 03:29  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42522

Pete piping in here. No, the bulb in my tug is crystal clear overall. Plus, it lights up when a button on the transmitter is pressed. Would a “fuse” do that? I wonder if it’s a carryover from an older pre-LED design or possibly something to do with acting as a resistor for the various LEDs on the pilot house? But that’s strictly a guess on my part. My experience with & understanding of LEDs & how they’re used properly is very, very limited.

Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
8th Jun 2018 08:46  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42523

See where you're coming from John. But what would be the point?
The bulb is only connected to one output of the RX board so has no influence on other circuits.
Pete; same applies to the 'resistor' idea. Plus; the bulb's DC resistance is around the square root of not very much!😲
I've found some pics of the internal wiring of the Richardson, samples attached, and am trying to figure out what we can do to maximise the flexibility of the existing function switches. Your pic of the cabin roof connections has given me an idea Pete 👍
More later, plus some LED basics for future reference.😉
Happy Tugging All, cheers Doug 😎


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
8th Jun 2018 10:40  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42524

Thanks again, Doug.

Am I correct in thinking that the circuit board in the pilot house is the only one on the boat? Does that one board include the receiver, speed control, sound & light functions & an output for the steering servo? For some reason I thought there was another board under the big hatch on the deck behind the pilot house. I haven’t been able to remove that hatch (yet) but I will. I want to familiarize myself with the entire boat, so I’ll have to get that hatch open. I thought it would pop up by pressing the square spring-loaded button but no luck. Later this morning I’ll pry it carefully with the same thin blade I used to get the pilot house roof off.

I’m probably the only Hobby Engine tugboat owner on this site who hasn’t removed that hatch to see what’s inside. But that’ll change later today.

Full speed ahead!


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
8th Jun 2018 12:00  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42526

Hi Pete, Go easy with the prying!!
You're right. The spring loaded button is the way in. But it can be very stiff and underneath the hatch is a dense foam rubber gasket which makes the hatch catch (😆) difficult to release. Press the button firmly down while trying to ease the hatch forward with your blade.
In my basic version there ain't much underneath except the rudder servo.
But that's where I intend to put a decent battery.
Re electronic speed controller (AKA ESC); it MAY be on the cct board but I doubt it cos I don't see the FET power transistors for the outputs to the motors! Unless that's them in the bottom left corner in the second pic?
In mine it's a separate square block with the heat-sink tabs of the transistors clearly visible. Trace the wires back from the motors to find yours😉
Everything else, RX and switched outputs, is on the cct board.
Check out the blog with the link above and you will find all the secrets about removing the deck without busting anything👍
More later, ciao, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
8th Jun 2018 13:33  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42527

Hey, Doug:

Regarding the “FET power transistors” you mentioned, I looked at the photo I took of my board again & as you pointed out, in one corner there are three identical components. Each one is black & has three leads soldered to the board. The one that’s completely visible has the letters “NEC” printed on its middle with “1357” centered below. Also, one of the leads has the number “38” printed above it. All of the characters are faint so I’ve attached two heavily enhanced blow-ups so you (hopefully) can see what I’m trying to describe. Please note that I boosted the black parts & the lettering so much that the other colors are no longer accurate.

Thanks,
Pete


Attached Files - Click To View Large


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
8th Jun 2018 14:05  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42528

Great👍 Those are the FETs😊 actually 4 of 'em as I would expect.
Do me a big favour😉 Now take a full-frame close up of the whole board showing all connecting wires and the legends on the sockets please.

I've just chopped half the stern off my 'disaster area' Fish Cutter!
Oh woe is me 🤔


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
8th Jun 2018 14:27  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42529

OK Got 'em!
N channel MOSFETS good for 180V, 4A DC and 16A Pulsed (as with our speed controllers) so more than enough for our 'little toys' 😊


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
8th Jun 2018 15:29  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42530

Funny, I thought it looked like four of those things, too, but in my earlier photo I’d swear there were three. Trick of the light, I guess. I’ll post a photo of the board as requested as soon as I can.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
8th Jun 2018 15:39  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42531

I hope “chopping half the stern off your disaster area fish cutter” doesn’t require a trip to a trauma center for stitches & bandages. Whatever it is, it sounds painful & likely to leave you a quart low on the red stuff.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
8th Jun 2018 15:41  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42532

Muchas gracias Pete, important is that as many legends on the board as possible are readable. 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
8th Jun 2018 15:45  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42533

Can't sir down for a month or two either 😡😱😁
New Build Blog will soon reveal all (Or as much as I want to😉)
Little progress expected this evening; dinner with the GF and Germany plays Saudi Arabia 😁 in a Test Game. If they flunk that then they can save the air tickets to Moscow😉


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
8th Jun 2018 16:54  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42535

Hi Pete,
I agree with Doug. Push and lift at the same time!
At least that's how mine worked out! I found a piece of foam in the bilge of my southhampton. didn't see the point of it. so I took it out! Now underneath the first hatch. I found the reciever.
Believe it or not it was a 27mhz reciever! Which I quickly switched out for a 2.4ghz reciever.
But maybe the Richardson Tug is completely different electronics wise....!


"Fair winds calm Seas"
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
8th Jun 2018 19:10  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42536

When I had another try at the big hatch it came right off easily. I think it was a bit stuck on the gasket. The push-to-release latch is really something; a 50/50 blend of wow & ridiculous. It’s an impressive mechanism but it’s also seriously over-designed. The battery hatch under the pilot house has a simple quarter-turn catch to hold it shut while the aft hatch has a fancy spring-loaded push button release assembly. Doesn’t make much sense, really. My boat has a piece of foam in the bilge, too, but I’m reluctant to remove it. Although it’s no use for flotation my theory is that it may serve two purposes. First, it might be there for sound dampening. Those two big motors & their reduction gears make a lot of noise in that large void surrounded by stiff plastic. Second, any seepage through the stuffing boxes would be absorbed by the foam & keep bilge water away from the motors. Those are my thoughts but I could be way off.

The Richardson does indeed have different electronics compared to some of the other Hobby Engine tugs. It’s got working interior & exterior lighting, horn & smoke units, plus it has a 2.4ghz transmitter & receiver, which is a nice feature in that it does away with a mast-style antenna. That’s the main reason I chose my boat; I don’t know enough about R/C models to be able to say if 2.4ghz actually performs any better than 27mhz.

Anyway, thanks again for the excellent advice. I learned more about my boat without breaking it. Outstanding!


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
8th Jun 2018 19:36  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42537

Hi Pete,

Glad you have learned! I too have learned as well.
My Southampton didn't come with lights.
So, your Richardson tug.
must look awesome on the water at night.

Oh, 2.4ghz is way better than 27mhz.
This is why, I changed the reciever to my Southhampton!
And the long aerial just doesn't look right!

Ed


"Fair winds calm Seas"
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
8th Jun 2018 21:47  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42538

Evenin' Both,
Pete, you're right about the hatch, in the instructions (or mine at least with the old 40MHz version) they warn you to leave the hatch loose when not using the boat. Otherwise it sticks to the foam gasket. Just like yours did 😉 During the upgrade of my 40MHz Southampton I will remove that over-engineered catch and use neodymium magnets in the corners instead. That gives more 'headroom' to fit a decent sized NiMh battery underneath 😊
And yes there are 3 different versions of this boat, whereby Richardson and Southampton are identical apart from name and 'paint job'. 27 and 40 MHz with no frills and the modern 2.4GHz version with bells and whistles. Well, lights and smoke anyway 😊 Makes a change from Smoke and Mirrors eh? 😁 So between the 3 of us we represent all 3 generations!!!

According to my manual the foam is there to absorb moisture that might ingress through stuffing tubes or hatches so full marks to Pete 👍

Re different RC frequencies, as a ex Radio and naval COMMS engineer:
27MHz and 40MHz have inherently longer range and better water penetration, which is why I still have such sets for my submarines.
2.4GHz is strictly Line of Sight only, which is one reason why they first gained popularity with the 'Fly Boys'. 2.4Gig waves also bounce off water or are absorbed by it, so it's useless for subs😭
The other reason is that they use a frequency hopping (FH) technique which makes them virtually immune to interference 😊 Although I have yet to find a set that hops over the full 85 frequencies available. Most seem to only use 16 or so🤔 Limited bandwidth at the RX !?
As with all FH radio systems 2.4Gig RC sets also use a binding technique so that the RX recognises the 'signature', i.e- hop sequence, of it's own TX and ignores others. Mostly anyway 😉
Here endeth the 99th Epistle of Admiral Doug 😁
Main thing is, enjoy the 'fiddlin aboot' and even more so the sailing, as my German colleagues say; "I wish you always a hand's breadth of water under your keel". Cheers Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
onetenor
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 405
8th Jun 2018 22:08  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42539

Well done sorting that out.Just to clear one point ref fusible bulbs. They are used in Chrimbo tree lights are clear and have a white painted tip. It's not a fuse that lights but a bulb that is fusible.Odd but it works. I used to buy a pack of 4 at a time from Woolies. They weren't all the same either.It could take ages to read the packages to find the right ones. I ended up with loads of different ones It was the go to bulb if the lights failed.🤓👍

RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
8th Jun 2018 22:20  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42540

Tell me about it John😲😉
I got fed up with hunting for the dud bulbs in the chains year after year. So threw 'em all out a few years ago and replaced with LED chains and icicles and snow showers and .....
Anyone need a batch of spare Chrimbo tree blubs!?😁


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
9th Jun 2018 00:02  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42546

Hey, Doug:

I feel like I have both eyes in the same socket. It’s hard on my 58 year old vision taking pictures of things so close to my face. Anyway, here are 4 photos of the board. I couldn’t get all of the connection point labels in one picture but I got them all in detail shots as you’ll see.

Board-01: Overall view of the board, “North” is at the top.
Board-02: “Northeast” corner.
Board-03: “East” edge. All of the labels are letters.
Board-04: “Southeast” corner.

There aren’t any connections on the “West” edge.

Please let me know if you need additional or better shots.

Thanks.


Attached Files - Click To View Large


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
9th Jun 2018 00:16  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42547

Thanks Pete👍 The row of 220 Ohm SMD resistors give a very good clue!
My 67 year old eyes let my Sony Cybershot take the strain 😉
Get back to you soon. It's sack time here in Munich now. "ZZZZZZZZZZZZ"
CU. Ciao, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
10th Jun 2018 15:46  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42582

Hi, Doug:

This morning while I was browsing Hobbytron.com (the site I bought my Richardson from) I stumbled upon another iteration of the tug called “Atlantic” (photos attached). I don’t remember seeing this version on the site back when I chose the Richardson. The overview photo shows a transmitter that’s different from mine; something other than 2.4ghz maybe? The display base has the name “Southampton” on it which adds to the confusion. I wonder if Hobby Engine any other boats besides the Atlantic/Richardson/Southampton trio & their assorted options or if there are others?

Pete


Attached Files - Click To View Large


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
10th Jun 2018 16:45  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42586

Hi Pete,

Not sure why the name plate says Southampton.
I've never seen the Atlantic before!
The controller that you see is the 27mhz unit
I know I have one in my spare parts bin!


Attached Files - Click To View Large


"Fair winds calm Seas"
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
10th Jun 2018 21:23  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42592

Hi Both, All the mouldings look identical to the Southampton and Richardson. The hull and stand are the same as my 'Southampton', the superstructure the same as the Richardson?, but with a red roof😆?
Maybe they ran out of grey and white plastic 😁


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
11th Jun 2018 04:51  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42602

Hey, Guys:

Do you know if this model is scaled from a real boat? There are photos-aplenty on the web of full-size boats that are similar to Hobby Engine’s design but I haven’t seen any that match 100%. At 1:36 scale & 22” (1.833’) OAL that means a full-size Atlantic/Richardson/Southampton would be 66’ long. That’s about right for a small harbor tug.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
11th Jun 2018 19:43  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42618

That's about right take a look at the real Wyeforce!
Guess 22" is where they thought the model should be at!
https://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/details/ships/235000813


"Fair winds calm Seas"
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
12th Jun 2018 11:49  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42624

Wow! Hobby Engine’s tugs are nearly identical to the WYEFORCE. In fact, as you mentioned in one of your prior posts, the Southampton’s color scheme is very similar to the WYEFORCE as well. I measured the OAL of my Richardson & it comes up a little bit short of the “advertised” length of 22”. It actually measures 21-3/8” or 1.781’ [0.543m]. Using the inverse of 1:36 yields the OAL of the full-size boat: 1.781’ x 36 = 64.12’ [19.54m], which is 1.12’ [0.34m] longer than the 19.2m OAL stated for the WYEFORCE on marinetraffic.com. The length difference isn’t surprising because the “as-built” dimensions of fabricated steel ships, boats, barges, etc. can vary quite a bit from the original engineering design. The length stated for the WYEFORCE could be an estimate or events like ECOs (engineering change orders), field alterations & damage repairs could have affected the full-size tug’s OAL. In my 35 years as a mechanical/industrial designer I frequently dealt with machinery that varied from planned dimensions. I’m not a rivet counter & I doubt that most R/C boaters are either. It’s all about having fun, right? If the model looks right, it is right.

Enough said.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
20th Jun 2018 12:20  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42919

Hi, Doug:

I’ve got a question about the resistors that’ll be needed for each of the six mast-mounted LED navigation lights. This may seem like a dumb question to an expert like you but please don’t laugh too hard. Anyway, do these resistors need to be installed as close as close as possible to the anode or can they be located some distance away, maybe as much as a foot or so? I don’t know yet what the value or physical size of the resistors will be but I’m pretty sure that the space inside the Richardson’s mast isn’t large enough to house the wiring for the LEDs & the resistors, too. If they can be installed farther away, I was thinking I could put the six resistors on a small board & install it inside the large cabin under the pilot house. When resistors are used in LED circuits do they get warm or even hot? If so, I can open up the dummy rectangular portholes & install black fine-mesh nylon screens in the openings. If heat isn’t a concern then I won’t sweat it (bad pun there, sorry). The hardest part of my project will probably be finding a good online source for the various electronic parts I’ll need. There used to be a great electronics supply store about two miles from my home. Coincidentally, that store was less than a block up the street from a hobby shop where I did business for almost fifty years. Now both stores are long gone. Sniff.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
20th Jun 2018 22:52  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42941

I ain't laughing Pete, it's a fair question (or two) 😉
1 Location: you're on the right track👍 A little distribution board, e.g. built on Veroboard, is a good tidy solution and simplifies any troubleshooting later. Put the resistors in the + lead to the LEDs.
2 Resistor size and heat: 1/8 or 1/4 W resistors will do nicely. Since they will only be passing 20 to 30mA they should not get hot. The size is about 3mmx 10mm. Allow 3 or 4mm at each end for the leads for flat mounting.
3 Values: Before we can determine these we will need to know what voltage is supplied to the dropping resistors on the circuit board just before the plug and socket connection to the lamp wire.
So you will have to do some testing with your multi-meter😲
before you pull anything apart make a sketch of the lamps connections to the board. Switch on your TX and RX - IN THAT ORDER PLEASE!
Switch on each existing light in turn and measure the volts at the socket on the board, referred to the negative of the main battery supply.
Then look for one of those teeny SMD resistors directly connected to the socket pin you've just measured and check the volts at both ends while the lamp is on. Note all these readings on your sketch.
Make a clear photo of this sketch and post it or PM me for my email address. doug-bell@t-online.de that might get deleted by the site system🤔 When we have these readings I can work out some suitable combinations to achieve what you want and minimise the number of different resistors. Basically I need to know if the full 7.2V of the main battery is switched to the resistor by the RX output! If not then what!?
Hope this makes sense 😉 Takes longer to describe than to do it !
Re sourcing: Try Radio Shack. I recently pointed another site colleague (figtree) in this direction for a similar project with his Brooklyn tug.
For instance-
https://www.radioshack.com/collections/resistors/products/50...
This is a collection of so called preferred values, i.e. near enough standard values and cheap to produce by the millions.
For $7.50 it's got all the values you are likely to need for the next 10 years illuminated boating 😁
Cheers, Doug 😎🤓


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
21st Jun 2018 00:28  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42943

Thanks, Doug.

I’m pretty clear on how to proceed; thanks very much for your detailed instructions. Will you please clarify two things? As I “switch on each existing light in turn” to measure voltages as you describe, should I turn each light off before moving on to the next one or should I leave them turned on until all of the measurements are finished? Also, does “socket” refer to the locations on the board where the wires & components were originally inserted through holes & then soldered in place? I’ll check out the Radio Shack website you mentioned later this evening. I didn’t realize RS still existed as an Internet retailer. Almost all of the RS stores here in the states closed in 2017. There was a Radio Shack store less than a half mile from my home that closed last year. Oh, well.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
21st Jun 2018 00:48  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42944

Mornin' Pete (at least it is here!)
Yes, switch on only one light at a time to avoid any confusion with the readings. Easier to find the 'live one' then.
Socket means the connectors on the circuit board where you told me plugs from the superstructure wiring are connected , and as I saw in your photos.
First job is to trace all wires back from the existing lights and note them on your sketch. If any are directly soldered into the board the procedure is just the same as if it were a socket pin.
I'm particularly curious about the voltage to the bulb, and why it's a bulb in the first place.
Carefully check all other lights, if they are also bulbs we have a slightly different ball game. Still need the voltages though 😉
I guess we are all collectively responsible for the demise of local model shops and Radio Shacks and the like. We all want Rolls Royces and Cadillacs but are only prepared to pay Hyundai and Toyota prices, so we all (me too - Guilty as Charged🤔) buy online from HobbyKing and similar and the local shops starve. Simple economics. Model shop owners gotta eat too!
Sack time now in Munich, tomorrow (today😲) is another day, ciao, Doug 😎🤓


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
21st Jun 2018 04:28  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42945

Hi, Doug:

Somewhere along the way I must have messed up & given you some bad information. There are no connectors in any of the wiring that runs from the circuit board up into the deck house & pilot house. I think at some point I mentioned that I want to put connectors in the wiring which is probably what has caused the mixup. By installing connectors in the wiring I’d be able to completely remove the bottom cover of the deck house (with the circuit board attached to it) & move it safely aside without the risk of damaging the wiring. Then I’ll better access to the deck house interior if I ever need to work on anything inside. Anyway, I’ll use the needlepoint “+” probe on my pen-style multimeter to take all of the readings that are needed to avoid shorts. There are (5) pairs of wires soldered to the board that supply power & ground to the boat’s (4) LEDs & (1) bulb. I don’t think I’ll have any trouble getting the voltage measurements you need. I’ll get a sketch & voltage readings to you as soon as I can. Thanks again for your continued assistance.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
21st Jun 2018 07:24  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/42947

Sorry, my mistook🤔
Look forward to the sketch, cheers Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
23rd Jun 2018 17:00  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43020

Hello, Doug:

I had everything ready to take the voltage readings this morning except for one minor detail: the 7.2v battery pack was dead so I had to plug it in to charge. It should be ready by mid-afternoon today. In the meantime I’ve got a few questions about connectors. As I said earlier I want to install connectors in the existing wiring that runs up into the deck house & pilot house. I’ll do the same with the new wiring that’ll go to the mast LEDs, too. I’d like to use miniature multi-conductor plugs & sockets with male & female conductors that solder onto the cut & stripped wires. Presently there are (10) wires for LED lighting, (2) for the pilot house lamp, (2) for the smoke generator & (2) for the smoke “blower” - (16) wires all together. At this point I don’t know how many wires there’ll be all together. Do you think a single connector for all of the wires is a good idea or would it be better to use several small connectors? Last of all, do you know of a source for small or miniature connectors? Radio Shack’s site lists connectors but they look too bulky. The conductor pins & sockets used with them appear to be designed for much larger gauge wires than the skinny wires in the tug. I’ve looked at several other sites but the technical nomenclature used for something as simple as connectors give me a headache. Help, please?


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
23rd Jun 2018 22:19  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43026

Hi Pete,
Number 1, Get yourself some more batteries! You'll want a spare at the pond anyway 😉
Better still, get a variable mains power supply for such bench tests so you don't have to mess with batteries until you're on the pond!
Here in Munich I got a Basetech 30V 5A regulated PSU for less then the price of a decent boat kit. See 2nd pic, shows mine during my test of a converted field coil motor to make it run forwards and backwards.
it saves a lot of faffing about with batteries for a quick test of a circuit😉 Get one where you can set a current limit down to mAmps so you don't risk blowing components, e.g. LEDs!
Re Connectors: if you are going to make a little distribution board for the lights then why not use this for all connections to the superstructure?
I.e. first solder all the wires from the circuit board into the input end of your Veroboard.
At the output end solder a strip of 1/10" pitch connector pins. Try Radio Shack!
For each output to lamps, smoker etc you can then use the little 2 pin JST plugs. See pic. Type JST-RCY. Try Googling them.
Sure you can get these from any half decent Online RC supplies shop over there. They are often used in Park Flyer planes etc.
Doing it that way you only have half the wires to squash into the tiny plugs 😉
As soon as we have the voltage readings we can work out the connections and resistors etc for your little board.
Happy measuring😁 Looking forward to your sketch. Cheers, Doug 😎


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
30th Jun 2018 23:37  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43361

Hi, Doug:

I managed to measure voltages at the outputs for each LED as well as the the bulb in the pilot house. However, I couldn’t measure voltages on the “input” of the five LED resistors. From what I found by searching on line these resistors are the “SMD” (Surface Mounted Device) type. They’re about the size of two amoebas & I just couldn’t see them well enough. It would be easier to give a gnat a colonoscopy than it would be to get the probe of my multimeter in the right spots. But in the enlarged photos I took of those resistors I could actually read the three digit numbers printed on each one. One of them is numbered “221” & the other four are numbered “331”. I’ll defer to your expertise if I’m wrong, but by using a nifty calculator that I found on line I figured out that “221” = 220 ohms +/-5% & “331” = 330 ohms +/-5%. Are these values correct? Will you be able to proceed by using the published resistor values in the absence of the resistor “input” voltages that I’m not able to measure? I sure hope so. Please let me know if the resistor data I found is correct or if I’m way off. My sketch is almost done & I’ll get it to you shortly. Thanks very much.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
3rd Jul 2018 10:52  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43401

Hey Doug!

I’ve finally finished the long-awaited sketch! I’m sorry it took me so long but I had to work under very adverse conditions. Nearly every time I sat down to work on it one of my wife’s friends would drop in for a visit & there isn’t enough light in the closet to sketch by.

Anyway, the sketch is attached. I verified that all four of the boat’s exterior lights are LEDs. The pilot house interior light is a light bulb as I’ve said before. You asked before if it’d be possible to replace the bulb with an LED. It can be done so I noted the bulb’s supply voltage on the sketch, too. Both wires running to the bulb are white (labelled “WHT” on the sketch).

The Aft Deck light LEDs look crystal-clear when they’re turned off, but when they’re turned on they light up yellow! I didn’t expect that because the Port & Starboard Sidelight LEDs are red & green respectively when they’re turned off. The Search Light LED is clear when it’s off & white when it’s on.

I hope the sketch is helpful. As I said in my last post I couldn’t get the voltage readings on the SMD resistor inputs, but I wrote their 3-digit numbers & my stab at their values in my last post, too.

I hope the nomenclature I used on the sketch is somewhat like what you’re used to. Being a mechanical guy I never did any electrical or electronics drawings so I just took a stab at it for the sketch. If you have questions or need anything else just ask.

Thanks again,
Pete


Attached Files - Click To View Large


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
3rd Jul 2018 11:26  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43402

Hi Pete, many thanks, good work 👍
Just one question; What was the battery voltage?

GF about to drag me out to the Shopping Mall 🤔 so more this evening.
Cheers, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
3rd Jul 2018 13:38  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43405

Hi, Doug:

Sorry about that. Where power enters the circuit board the reading is 8.08 volts, same as the 7.2V battery pack when it’s fully charged.

That sounds like something from an Abbott & Costello routine!





😎😎


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
3rd Jul 2018 16:34  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43408

😁
"Who's on first base?"
"Yes."
"What"?
"No, What's on second."
"Who?"
"No, What. Who's on first."
"!****!*!***!" 😡

BTW: thanks for the input voltage 👍
Is that the same value where you have marked '+' on the sketch?
Cheers, Doug 😎
c


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
3rd Jul 2018 17:05  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43410

Doug:

Yes, sir. I should’ve written “8.08V” next to the “+” but I missed it.

Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
3rd Jul 2018 17:13  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43412

OK. Good, that's all I need to know 👍
Now to put new batteries in me calculator 😁
BTW: I know soccer isn't exactly THE game over there, BUT
England are playing in the World Cup tonight, wish 'em luck - they might need it 😉 Ciao, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
20th Jul 2018 09:52  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43957

Hello, Doug:

Are you doing OK? I sincerely hope so. 🙏🏼

Three questions have come up as a result of my searches on MB for information about & photos of Hobby Engine’s various tugs.

First, when you have the time, will you please look at the wires that run from the circuit board up to the pilot house LEDs & ceiling light & let me know what gauge you think they are? I’ll need to get wire of the same gauge for my LED mast lighht connections, (assuming it can be done at all).

Second, I would like to get a new 7.2V battery with a much higher amp-hour rating. Can I simply get a higher capacity battery & charger to do this as long as I stay with 7.2v?

Last, the factory motors in the HE tugs seem to be quite robust & powerful. Why does it seem like most boaters can’t wait to replace them?

Thanks,
Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
Fred
(Commander)





Forum Posts: 55
20th Jul 2018 14:09  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43961

Hi Pittsfieldpete

I use 30awg wrapping wire for my LED's the RS stock number is 209-4849 Black they also do it in red.
Hope that this is of some help.
Fred


That's all right, Mr Ryan. My Morse is so rusty, I could be sending him dimensions on Playmate of the Month.
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
20th Jul 2018 18:02  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43964

Hello, Fred:

Thank you very much for your information about wrapping wire. That kind of wire will be easy to conceal inside the Richardson’s mast en route to each of the six mast-mounted LED navigation lights I hope to use. Excellent!

Thanks again!
Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
20th Jul 2018 18:49  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43967

Hi Pittsfieldpete,

I ordered these LED's. It's quite a large assortment!
They arrived about two weeks later!
I think they will help you with your Robertson Tug!

https://us.banggood.com/Wholesale-Warehouse-375pcs-3MM-5MM-L...

Also you'll have LED's for any project!

Cheers' Ed


"Fair winds calm Seas"
Haverlock
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 487
20th Jul 2018 19:12  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43968

before you use RS to buy your wrapping wire you might like to look here

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-25mm-30AWG-Insulated-Silver-Pla...

I didn't realise anyone was still making wire wrapping supplies.


"that's not a bug its just an undocumented creature."

Sir Terence David John "Terry" Pratchett, OBE (28 April 1948 - 12 March 2015)
Fred
(Commander)





Forum Posts: 55
20th Jul 2018 20:25  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43969

Hi
I got 50mts from when I was at work and so far I still have some 45+ left.

In the past I have used telephone/alarm wire and that has worked well.

Fred


That's all right, Mr Ryan. My Morse is so rusty, I could be sending him dimensions on Playmate of the Month.
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
20th Jul 2018 20:49  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43972

Hi Pittsfieldpete,

I use really tiny wire for wiring running lights!
Bought it as radio shack years ago!
Wire wrapping wire is the best to use.
Especially when you can't hide the wire!
Paint black or what ever color your using.
Best thing from a distance you can't tell!👍

Cheers, Ed


Attached Files - Click To View Large


"Fair winds calm Seas"
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
20th Jul 2018 22:03  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43974

Hi Pete,
since you are in the US try here, the OTHER RS😉:-
https://www.radioshack.com/pages/search-results?findify_limi...
Personally I prefer stranded wire as it is more flexible and less prone to break if you often have to remove and remake connections, like when you take the cabin off! It's slightly thicker so it's more a question of 'Will it fit?'
https://www.radioshack.com/products/22-gauge-hookup-wire-3-p...
Some model shops have (or used to!) a really thin stranded wire, as used for tiny 'rice grain' bulbs'.
2nd question:
I assume your tug has an 800mAh NiMh battery like mine did. Correct me if I'm wrong, I don't know the new models.
I propose to change mine for a 2200mAh NiMh. Can't use LiPo cos the Brushed ESC isn't LiPo safe; i.e. with built in cut off if the battery falls to 3.0V per cell - lowest safe LiPo discharge voltage.
3rd Question - changing motors; I've often wondered that!😲
Up to now I don't see any reason to. Maybe those guys want to enter Towing Competitions!? I don't.
Also some folks are just not happy unless they are tinkering and 'improving' 😉
I might try to quieten the gearbox down a bit though 🤔 Teflon grease perhaps!?
Cheers, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
onetenor
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 405
21st Jul 2018 13:07  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43987

I wait with bated breath so come on Doug or I'll suffocate 😁😁👍

RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
21st Jul 2018 14:00  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43988

OK John, just warn me when you start turning blue 😁
Got a bit bogged down with other snags!
At least we managed to clear up Martin's little mystery 😉
More velly soon (must be using too much Chinese stuff😊)


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
21st Jul 2018 20:00  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/43997

Hi, Doug:

Thank you once again for answering my questions. I especially like your response & comments about HE tug’s factory-installed motors. I think the “heart of the machine” for my tug is perfectly fine. I’d rather add detail to the model, over time & within reason, to make the boat look as realistic as possible without becoming so delicate that I’d be afraid to put it in the car for a drive to the lake.

Continuing on, I’d like to get your comments about my latest idea for adding connectors to the wiring that runs from my tug’s circuit board to the various lights & components in the deck house & pilot house.

This is something I can do with or without my proposed new LED Mast Navigation Lights to add the convenience of being able to completely disconnect & separate the Deck House/Pilot House from the circuit board/Deck House bottom cover assembly. This will make detailing the upper works much easier because it won’t be tethered to the circuit board by (16) wires.

The circuit board holes where the (10) Search Light, Port & Starboard Sidelight & Aft Deck Light wires are soldered are equally spaced at 0.10” (2.5mm). I can tag & desolder the wires, insert a 10-pin HS male socket & solder it to the board. Then I can connect the wires to the male plug. I can do the same thing with the (6) wires that run to the Pilot House Light, Smoke Generator & Smoke Pump.

What do you think? If you find that powering & controlling the new LED Navigation Lights on the Mast the way I’d like to can’t be done, the circuit board connectors still make sense.

Or am I AWOL from reality...again?

Thanks,
Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
21st Jul 2018 22:46  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44005

Evenin' Pete,
Not AWOL at all, haven't noticed that you were AWOL before either!)
The connectors are an excellent idea, as already briefly discussed.
Don't use the wrapping wire for the Smoker though. That wire is only good for about 500mA and the smoker probably takes more.

The lighting mods you want are possible, so hang on with the connectors until I've got the 'How' finished! Cos some of the lighting wires will be diverted through a new distribution board with the appropriate resistors, as we also discussed.
Will do my best to get the instructions finished tomorrow.
Cheers, Doug


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
22nd Jul 2018 00:08  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44011

Hi, Doug:

Wrapping wire is an option only if “normal” stranded/insulated wires won’t fit inside the mast. I don’t like to use single conductor wire for anything unless it’s for industry-standard applications like telephone wiring.

I asked if you had any idea what gauge the existing tug wiring is so that I can buy the same gauge for my project. I have to order things like small gauge wire, LEDs, resistors, etc. because there aren’t any shops where I can take in a sample of existing wire to compare with what’s on the shelf.

Oh, boy. As I’m typing this it suddenly just dawned on me that I can mike the existing wire O.D. to find the gauge...DUH!!

I’m looking forward to your instructions for my project but please don’t push your own interests aside for me.

Thanks,
Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
22nd Jul 2018 00:52  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44014

Agree Pete,
But then telephone wires come as twisted pairs (to minimise induced interference) which gives them additional strength (and bulk🤔).
Your wiring looks to me to be about 24 gauge.
I also agree with space in the mast, had also pondered that while looking at my Southampton. Came to the conclusion that I would use the tiny wrapping wire (as U lot call it😉) down the mast and into a socket permanently glued under the cabin. Then use flexible stranded wire from then on down to the electronickery! Then there's no strain on the fragile wiring when you remove the cabin for maintenance etc.
That light 'wrapping' wire is fine for the LED circuits as they only take a few tens of milliamps. I'm also looking at the possibility to use a common return (negative) lead to minimise the wires needed on the mast itself.

I buy my wire Online as well, almost no shops left where you can go an look at stuff🤔 Was surprised and disappointed at the limited choice at Radio Shack, pretty miserable compared with the range I can get here from Conrad, and many others, even Krick Modellbau.

I'm multiplexing my projects with yours, and others who have approached me by PM. Trouble is I can never resist a challenge!
What I'm doing for your Richardson will also be the basis for some mods to my Southampton😉
Anyone know a good 'Cloning Shop'? 😁😁
Big 3D printer and an Isaac Asimov Positronic brain perhaps?
Cheers All, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
22nd Jul 2018 01:13  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44016

Doug:

I was thinking along the same vein for the wiring in the mast; a common “buss” for the LED grounds. Sure would make the installation a bit easier. I like your socket idea a lot. I was considering a wiring conduit running up the space between the rear windows in the Pilot House & up into the mast, which would be glued to its mounting bracket on the roof. But it would be great to build the mast as a plug-in unit that could be removed for transit. You da man!


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
22nd Jul 2018 01:16  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44017

I think you just took my basic idea to the 'next level' Pete 👍👍
BTW: Like your 'Footnote', 'Three Men In A Boat' 😁😁


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
onetenor
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 405
22nd Jul 2018 10:54  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44026

You might find your wire here at the componentshop https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=componentshop&oq=component...
It's worth getting their catalogue. Brilliant service I can really recommend them. Good prices and quality with fast turnaround.

RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
22nd Jul 2018 22:17  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44060

Evenin' Pete, first instalment coming shortly in pdf format.
A table, based on your excellent sketches of what you want to do, showing control element on the TX, function, number of LEDs in the cct or ccts, resistor(s) needed, current consumed, for various battery voltages.
Example attached as jpg pic.
Based on your measurements I am assuming that the searchlight is a 3V high brightness LED and all the others are 2V LEDs, and nominal current 20mA.
This means that with a nominal 7.2V supply (Vs) for some circuits with 3 or 4 LEDs two parallel ccts will be needed. All will shortly be revealed 😉
I have optimised the resistors so that
a) the LEDs don't fry when the batt is fully charged, 8V,
b) that the LEDs can still turn on when the batt voltage dips to the 7.2V nominal.
c) Only 2 or 3 values will be needed.
Now have to convert my Excel file to pdf.
Will follow this up with wiring suggestions, including the little Distribution Board with the resistors.
I've tried to combine the lights you want logically considering how they would be used on the real ship.
Stay tuned! Cheers, Doug 😎
BTW; the mods and resistors suggested in the table mean that the existing SMD resistors on the ccts board must be shorted / replaced with wire. Your wrapping wire (stripped of course!) will be ideal for this😉
Hope you have a small soldering bit!


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
22nd Jul 2018 22:58  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44062

Here the result for batt voltage (Vs) 7.2V, the 'nominal' voltage.
LEDs should still 'strike' but will be a little dimmer. Esp fore and aft Nav lights.
The resistors were chosen to (hopefully) prevent the LEDs from blowing at fully charged 7.7 - 8V.
The additional lights triple the current consumption, but at a max of around 300mA max it shouldn't affect your run time noticeably, esp. if, like me, you are going to beef up the battery to about 2Ah or more.
Cheers, Doug 😎


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
23rd Jul 2018 12:55  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44087

Thanks Doug. You’re amazing!

Somehow I’ve managed to pick up The Curse Of The Pink Eye. I can see OK this morning so I’m replying quickly before The Goo blinds me again. Over the weekend I went through a cycle of “blink, blink, blink...I can see again! I can SEE!!...blink...I’M BLIND!!...blink, blink..., repeat. A few minutes ago I looked in the bathroom mirror & saw a hideous monster with horrible red eyes & wild gray hair. I’m definitely NOT going in there again! It’s the powder room for me today. I don’t know what that thing is but they should put his face on medicine bottles & toxic household chemicals to frighten children.

Thanks for your hard work, Doug. I’ll look at your results as soon as the yellow woodworker’s glue in my eyes runs out. I hope pink eye can’t be spread through cyberspace. Wash your hands thoroughly after reading this just in case. Here it comes!


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
23rd Jul 2018 13:14  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44088

Sounds like Albert Einstein's ghost!! 😲

Get well soon 👍

If you are happy with the arrangement in my table I'll knock up a wiring sketch for it.
All the best, Doug 😎
PS: I used the MacAffee 'washing machine' to scrub the electrons before displaying your message 😁😁


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
24th Jul 2018 00:19  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44103

Hi Pete, Hope the eyeballs are better 👍
Think I've now got the ultimate configuration 😊 (or the possible, tentative, subject to committee approval and board resolution, potential penultimate configuration 😲) See attached pdf. All new stuff is in red.
Thinking is as follows, according to the mast diagram you sent me-
L3; NAV & Towing in parallel 2 ccts; one for the port & stbd in the cabin roof, one for the white rear NAV & Towing, yellow, on the mast pointing aft.
L4; 2 white deck working lights plus new LED for the cabin light - white or yellow/amber. Your choice. I might be inclined to go for yellow as bridge lighting tends to be not too bright so it doesn't impair the night vision of the watch. Could be why it was a bulb in the first place - softer light ?
R2; Anchor light at mast top only. Makes no sense to combine with running (NAV) lights etc.
R3; The three new white running lights on the mast pointing forward.
L2 and R4 remain as they are for searchlight and horn.

Now working on the corresponding wiring sketch.
More tomorrow.
Cheers, Doug 😎


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
24th Jul 2018 00:47  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44105

Hi Guy's,

R2 should be RED not WHITE!
Top most light on the Mast!
Anchor lights are RED and their arc of view is 360 degree's!


"Fair winds calm Seas"
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
24th Jul 2018 00:56  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44106

Muchas gracias Ed 👍
Gen straight from the 'horse's mouth', so to speak 😉
How's your 'Brooklyn' lighting coming on?
Cheers, Doug


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
24th Jul 2018 00:59  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44107

Evenin' John O/T,
Can you breathe again now!? 😉
Hope I was in time!
Cheers, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
24th Jul 2018 01:14  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44108

Hi:

Thanks for your input. I got my data for mast light colors from the US Coast Guard website. According to the USCG all of the lights on the mast except the Stern Light should be white. The Stern Light is should to be yellow. After I found that information I browsed the web for a mast navigation light layout. I found a shipbuilder’s site that had an excellent general arrangement drawing for a tug’s which matches the USCG requirements. An enlargement of the mast is attached. I think I posted the sketch in an earlier post but I’m not sure.

Thanks,
Pete


Attached Files - Click To View Large


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
24th Jul 2018 01:18  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44109

That's the diagram I have been working to Pete,
Was also surprised to hear red for the anchor light, but Ed has worked on tugs!? Your boat, your choice!
Cheers and G'night All, Doug


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
24th Jul 2018 01:37  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44110

Hi Doug,

I'm going to work on the Brooklyn's light's.
After I complete her! The wires are going to be in her main cabin.
So, will work on the lights last! Will be using two 9 volts for two separate lights!👍


"Fair winds calm Seas"
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
24th Jul 2018 01:41  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44111

I must be thinking of a larger size vessal!
Sorry about that, Got to take a look at the rules of the road (Ships)!


"Fair winds calm Seas"
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
24th Jul 2018 01:46  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44112

Look forward to the light show Ed 👍
BTW Guys; looking again at the photos of the original Wyeforce boat (sample attached) I note that she does not have the silly UHF antenna stuck in the middle of the mast on the model.
So that can be removed to give easy access to the top light and 360° visibility of it 😉
Now I'm really off to Bedfordshire, nearly 3am and still talking boats ?😲
Ciao for now


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
24th Jul 2018 01:50  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44113

I stand corrected Rule 30!

—INTERNATIONAL— Lights and Shapes

Rule 30 Anchored Vessels and Vessels Aground

(a) A vessel at anchor shall exhibit where it can best be seen: (i) in the fore part, an all-round white light or one ball; (ii) at or near the stern and at a lower level than the light prescribed in subparagraph (i), an all-round white light. (b) A vessel of less than 50 meters in length may exhibit an all-round white light where it can best be seen instead of the lights prescribed in paragraph (a) of this Rule. (c) A vessel at anchor may, and a vessel of 100 meters and more in length shall, also use the available working or equivalent lights to illuminate her decks


"Fair winds calm Seas"
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
24th Jul 2018 01:51  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44114

G'night Doug!


"Fair winds calm Seas"
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
24th Jul 2018 08:08  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44115

Mornin' All, had wondered about that 3rd antenna on the model!
UHF on board is only used by the military.
The two longer (VHF) antennas are for the IMM band (International Maritime Mobile). Two are fitted according to the SOLAS/GMDSS regulations; one for transmission, one for reception.
SOLAS = Safety Of Life At Sea, introduced after the Titanic disaster
GMDSS = Global Maritime Distress and Safety System. Applicable to all ships of 500t or more and boats / ships capable of carrying 50 or more passengers.
These regs were part of my daily working life for 30 odd years.
They define the COMMS equipment a ship should carry according to the Sea Area they will sail in.
Area A1: close to shore within LoS range of VHF IMM radio. Roughly 30 miles, depending on height of antenna above sea level.
Area A2: off shore within the north and south 70° latitudes, beyond which SATCOM, esp INMARSAT is not possible due to the earth's curvature.
INMARSAT and/or MH/HF must be carried. Alternative means of long range communication must be carried.
A3: Worldwide. MF / HF radios must be on board for operations beyond the 70° parallels.
Cheers All, Doug


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
24th Jul 2018 13:30  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44119

Hi Pete,
Decided to change the 120Ohm resistors to 150s for safety at 8V fully charged! Keeps the total lighting current down to about 200mA 😉
New tables attached.
Last calc was with diode forward voltage drop (Vf) of 2.5V.
From your measurements the existing ones appear to be approx Vf 2.0V.
And I suggest you buy the same for your additional lights; Vf 2.0V, forward current (If) ~20mA.
Cheers, Doug 😎


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
24th Jul 2018 13:38  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44120

Thank you, O Great & Mighty Helpful One (AKA Doug).

My doctor prescribed eye drops for me yesterday afternoon so the torture should be over soon.

I looked at your spreadsheets & everything looks fine to me. 👍

By the way, I’ve been reading up on LEDs during our correspondence. One thing I learned that surprised me is that LEDs require different supply voltage depending on their color. Silly me thought that different colors were made by simply tinting a clear LED. But it’s confusing to me because the LEDs used for the port & starboard sidelights on my tug are actually are red & green in color, not clear, when they’re turned off. However, the aft deck lights are clear as water when off but yellow when turned on. According to various web articles I’ve read Hobby Engine was after the yellowish color of halogen lights, which they’ve done really well.

Why are some LEDs clear when turned off but change to a color when turned on, as opposed to LEDs that are their given whether off or on?


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
24th Jul 2018 14:15  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44123

Hi Pete,
Yep, the colour of the LEDs can be determined by doping the diode chip with various elements. The early ones were either red or clear, so the colour was added in the epoxy dome around the chip.
Cheap ones still are like that.
Nowadays you can get LEDs that light different colours according to the voltage applied! For instance in those irritating shelf / vitrine light strings that rotate through a variety of colours all the time.😡

I have some that are red or green depending on which way round you apply the voltage! They are milky white when off. Useful for checking the operation and setup in the boat of brushed ESCs and motors, esp for multi-screw boats, and the output of switching circuits.

Funny I always thought halogen lights were a hard white with a blue tint, like some car headlights. Cool on the Kelvin temp range.
Yellow is more like the warm white light of a tungsten bulb to me.
Yellow deck floodlights are more likely to be sodium lamps, like many street lamps.
The measurements you sent me indicated that the switch on voltage (Vf) of the searchlight was 3V and all the others 2V. So I based my final calc on that. If any of your LEDs don't 'strike' with 150Ohm just reduce the resistor to 120 to give it a 'shove'😁 I don't expect that though.
I have a box of 300 various LEDs and 1000 various resistors in front of me (and the mast from my Southampton tug😉) so will do some practical tests.
Cheers, Doug 😎
BTW: I can strongly recommend that you buy a simple LED Tester, like one of these-
https://www.ebay.com/bhp/led-tester
I'll help you get the LEDs the right way round in your circuits and tell you how much current they need for a decent brightness, and at what voltage they will turn on! Only a few bucks and saves a lot of aggro.
It'll also tell you what colour a 'clear or white' one will be when it turns on😊


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
24th Jul 2018 14:56  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44126

Doug:

You’re right about halogen lights. They’re mentioned as halogen in one article but as mercury vapor in a few others. Over here mercury vapor lamps are used for highway & parking lot lights & they do have a soft, yellowish glow. Halogen would be quite harsh & hard on drivers’ eyes. Maybe a tug or similar boats would prefer mercury vapor lighting in deck areas because they’re quite effective at cutting through fog? MVs are a good choice for highways & parking areas for the same reasons, I guess.

By the way, in your spreadsheet’s Notes column I noticed that you wrote “Clear” for the two deck light LEDs when in fact they’re yellow when operating. It shouldn’t make any difference to your calculations because you used the actual measured voltage in your calculations.

Here’s a question. Suppose you were given a box containing dozens of clear & different colored LEDs, both the cheap tinted epoxy kind & the ones that have clear domes with different innards to give various colors. How do you tell what voltage they require? From what I’ve seen LEDs aren’t marked in any way with a tiny numbers or letters so how do you know their power requirements if they’re not in their original packaging? Are LED supply voltage requirements standardized?

Thanks,
The Eternal Questioner (AKA Pete)


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
24th Jul 2018 15:11  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44127

Hi Pete, that's one reason I recommended you get an LED Tester!!
I would assume 2V and 20mA and work up from there if the LED doesn't turn on with 2V. But 'Gently Bentley', go too high too quick and you'll pop it! A good average is 2.5V. Maximum for some colours or high brightness types might be about 3.3V.

Yep, I'd forgotten about mercury vapour, thought they'd all been phased out in favour of sodium. Nasty stuff Mercury 😡
You're right, won't make any significant difference with the deck lamps.
If they won't turn on when the battery is low just change the resistors for 120Ohms.
Ciao Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
24th Jul 2018 15:47  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44128

Sorry, Doug. I missed the LED tester suggestion. I remember the one about the bench top battery charger. I must’ve been in one of my narcoleptic fogs. I’ll get a tester as soon as I can.

You’re correct, mercury vapor lights definitely would have been replaced by sodium vapor lights by now. Mercury that finds its way into the environment is a major concern. There are still areas on our interstate highways where yellow is used because heavy fog is a concern. Maybe a special yellow tinted lens is used. Bolt-on fog lights for cars have halogen bulbs in a housing with an amber lens. They cut through fog very well. Maybe the Wyeforce has similar deck lamps?


Speaking of fog, The Goo is coming back again with a vengeance. I’ll be back when my eyes are clearer.

Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
25th Jul 2018 02:31  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44184

Morning Pete,
Hope you see something this morning cos here's your wiring diagram.
Any queries just YELL! 😁
Bon chance mon ami 👍
Cheers, Doug 😎


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
25th Jul 2018 03:20  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44186

Hey, Doug

The drawing is excellent; thanks very much. I have one concern about something that I might not be able to do. The resistors that are to be removed & replaced with jumpers are the surface-mounted type & are microscopic. They don’t have leads passing through the board that can be desoldered. Seriously, those resistors are very tiny. They’re only about 1/8” (3mm) long. If a flea sat on one it would overhang the resistor’s sides quite a bit. I have a couple of magnifying visors but I still may not be able to do the necessary microsurgery. My worry is that the patient may not survive the operation.

Are there any techniques that help make the job of removing those tiny resistors any easier?

Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
25th Jul 2018 11:06  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44189

Mornin' Pete,
Mon plaisir 😉

Yeah, those surface-mounted-devices are a bit fiddly.
First thing is to clamp the board somehow so it can't slip.
Second: PLENTY OF LIGHT!!
Third: a small low power soldering iron, about 20W with a 1mm flat bit (chisel type). Temperature controlled if possible, set to about 200 - 250°C.
Fourth: a solder sucker is very useful to suck the solder off the joints, and probably the little resistor as well 😉
Fifth: a pair of flat ended tweezers. The cross-over self-gripping type are very good for this task, also to put the wire link on afterwards.
Finally: a large magnifying glass with stand, some have an area of extra strong magnification. Make sure it is very clean and the lighting does not cause shadows, reflections or refractions.
Alternative: heat the resistor with a standard 25W iron until the joints melt and flick it off with a scalpel! 😲 Just make sure no solder lands anywhere else on the board and shorts something out!!
Good luck👍
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS: my only concern with the mod is the current capacity of the switching chip / SMD transistors on the cct board.
I hope they can cope with the increased current 😉
That's why I tried to optimise the resistors and layout to keep the total current on each output as low as possible while still turning the LEDs on!
If something goes 'PoP' Don't call me - I'll call you! 😁


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
26th Jul 2018 17:11  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44212

Hi Pete,
JFF I built a little 'breadboard' (now where's my peanut butter!?😁) to test your LED lighting configurations.
Theory and calculation is fine but there's nowt like an acid test😉
Pics attached of the results (Christmas tree😊). Difficult to capture the colours due to the very bright white LEDs🤔 Will play with the resistors to bring up the yellows and dampen the whites a bit.
The 3 yellows at the bottom are the deck and cabin lights.
The 4 rows at the top are the mast lights, red and green self explanatory!

Applied (battery) voltage is shown on the meter top left, current drawn in mA on the meter to the right.
The circuits work fine from 6.0V upwards.
Current drain is approx-
110mA @ 7.8V (fully charged 6 cell NiMh)
103mA @ 7.5V (probable voltage after running a little while)
90mA @ 7.2V (nominal NiMh battery voltage. It will flatten out at approx this voltage after running a while - until it suddenly collapses at the end!)
75mA @ 6.6V (voltage of FLAT 6 cell NiMh battery)
60mA @ 6.0V curiosity! Below this some LEDs switch off. Brightness is noticeably reduced.
I think we can increase some resistors to reduce the current drawn without reducing the lighting effect😊
More info soon, I'm still experimenting, then I'll start modding my own tug😊 Cheers, Doug 😎


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
26th Jul 2018 17:45  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44216

I don't envy anyone working of the mast of the Robertson or the Southampton!


"Fair winds calm Seas"
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
26th Jul 2018 17:49  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44218

Or even the Richardson Ed 😉
Do you mean the model or the real McCoy?


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
26th Jul 2018 18:23  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44221

The Model of course!
Some micro surgery have to be careful with the soldering iron!😲


"Fair winds calm Seas"
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
26th Jul 2018 18:33  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44223

You betcha Ed😲
Watch this space!
Pete has triggered my curiosity - always dangerous 😁
Cheers Shipmate, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
26th Jul 2018 22:18  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44244

Hi Pete,
have been running an endurance test, at 7.2V, for about 8 hours now.
All still burning merrily, nothing getting even warm and current stable at 93mA. Looks good👍 Cheers, Doug


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
27th Jul 2018 00:12  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44258

Excellent work, Doug:

Everything looks great. Unfortunately just as my eyes have begun to feel better I’ve been stricken by a mysterious illness. Fever, headaches & weakness. Ugh. I’ll read your posts when the headaches quiet down.

Thanks again, kind sir.

Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
27th Jul 2018 00:18  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44259

😲 get well sooooon Pete


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
27th Jul 2018 00:41  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44260

Endurance test has been running for 11 hours now.
'All systems GO'😊
So RN-Munich is closing down for the night.
G'night an' sweet dreams of boat sailing all.
Cheers, Doug 'ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ'


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
27th Jul 2018 08:36  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44266

BTW: the above tests were done with 5mm LEDs just to prove the basics.
I also have 3mm LEDs and a strip of the miniscule SMD types.
I plan to use the SMD types in 1/350 scale Plastic Magic projects😉
I'll try those next to see if there's any significant difference in voltages / resistors required and current drain.
Due to the physics I expect the same forward voltages for the same colour LEDs but significantly less current for the SMD types. I'm curious to see how the SMD brightness compares with their big bruvvers!
More soon. Cheers, Doug (aka 'All Lit Up') 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
27th Jul 2018 13:13  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44272

Hi All Ron's 'electronics Whizz Kid' here 😁😁
(See above for reference!😉)

Repeated tests with 3mm LEDs.
Within a mA current results are the same; all within 'experimental error limits😊 Noticeable was that the brightness of all combinations remains the same (to my eyes) from 7.2 to 7.8V.
All worked happily down to 6.0V and 60mA, just slightly less bright.
All but the two whites in series also worked down to 5.0V !!
The two whites were on but so dim they are barely visible.
Pics show operation at 6V, 60mA.
Now trying to figure out the mechanics of testing the tiny SMD LEDs!!🤔
Cheers, Doug 😎


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
28th Jul 2018 05:04  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44293

Hello, Doug:

It looks like a total success! Outstanding work!

Now that details for this job are just about finalized I’ve been putting a shopping list together for all of the components. 3mm LEDS should be just right for the Richardson’s mast lights. I’ll be able to easily scratch-build the mast light housings & mounting brackets from my spare kit parts bins.

When it comes to the LEDs for this project, what do I need to look for voltage & current rating, brightness or anything else? Unfortunately I can’t see very well yet but I can use Siri on my iPhone to type what I say. If there’s anything offensive in this post, it’s Siri’s fault. I can’t wait for this plague to leave me!

Thanks for your ceaseless generosity & patience.

Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
28th Jul 2018 10:13  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44295

Mornin' Pete,
First off; I must admit that this effort isn't entirely altruistic! 😉
You piqued my curiosity (very dangerous!) but I can also use this set up in my Southampton tug 😊 although I will have to build the RC switches that you have on that circuit board.🤓 Not for the first time!

For the LEDs I used these for the tests-
https://www.banggood.com/search/led-3mm-100.html?direct=6&sb...
For a few bucks you have 100 coloured LEDs which should last you a while👍
BTW: I'll send you my mast over so you can fit the teeny weeny lamp brackets for me 😁😁
Look forward to seeing some pics of how you do that.
All the best,
Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
28th Jul 2018 10:30  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44296

SMD LED test-
Spent yesterday afternoon stretching my eyesight and patience to the limits but finally managed to duplicate the above set up with tiny 1mm chip LEDs 😊 The gap between Vero Board tracks is just right for them. A jeweller's eyeglass was a very useful aid🤓

Test results were very similar to those of the 3mm LEDs using the same resistor values. A pain in the neck to find out which end is which and solder them without shorting them or the damn things jumping off 🤔 but got there in the end.
They're currently (!) on an endurance test at 7.2V, 93mA. Didn't have any yellow so had to use orange - almost indistinguishable from the reds!😲
As with the 3mm LEDs I think we can increase the resistor values and reduce the current drawn without affecting the effective brightness.
Cheers All, Doug 😎


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
28th Jul 2018 10:55  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44298

Good morning, Sir Doug The Amazing:

My eyes are getting steadily better but I’m still having some trouble. Regarding the LED link you sent there seems to be something odd. When I clicked the URL from within your post, a new page starts opening but a “page cannot be found” message appears in a few seconds. If I copy the link & paste it in the address bar of a new page the Banggood.com main page opens without any focus on LEDs. I’m losing my mind!

If you’re not completely blind from wiring up microscopic LEDs with strands of spider silk will you try sending that link again?

BTW the Banggood site looks like it could be a “one stop shopping“ source for the mast project. That would be a nice plus.

Thank you, O Miracle Worker!

Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
28th Jul 2018 12:01  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44302

Hi Pete, STOP with the Sir Doug / Miracle worker and such, well meant but it's getting embarrassing!
None of what I do is rocket science, just methodical and tenacious application of some basics rules and laws.

Try this link.
https://www.banggood.com/100Pcs-3mm-Round-Top-LED-Diodes-Lig...
How your PC reacts to it depends on your browser and PC security settings! You can change the 'Warehouse' to US I think by changing the 'Ship to' to USA. Create an account pronto then it'll be easier and faster next time😉
Good luck👍 Cheers, Doug 😎
Just tested the link and it works fine for me😊


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
28th Jul 2018 12:02  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44303

Hey, Doug:

I was just rummaging through my “miscellaneous leftover, why did I buy this, what did I have in mind for those, where did those come from” stuff & I found the packet of “white” LEDs shown in the attached photo. Does the secret code on the front of the packet mean that these are anywhere close to being usable for my tug?

On another note, back when we were talking about various types of wire I mentioned telephone wire. The other photo shows the type that I was referring to. It’s essentially four 22 AWG solid wires, insulated with thin green, red, yellow & black vinyl & covered with a flexible vinyl outer jacket. This is kind of wire (or is it technically a cable?) has been used for household telephone hookups for a long, long time. In fact, it was originally made with cloth-like insulation on each wires & the outer jacket was a tough, thick material that was more like heavy PVC instead of the newer, thin-wall easy-to-strip. Rumor has it that old kind was field-tested by Lewis & Clark while they explored the Louisiana Purchase.

Pete


Attached Files - Click To View Large


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
28th Jul 2018 12:15  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44304

Those LEDs will be fine Pete, now you just need a few red, green and yellow, or use 'Glass lacquer' on a few of those!?
I know that cable, correct several 'wires' in a bundle = a 'cable', it's what my Internet phone / fax is hanging on since I extended the system from the entry point in the cellar. Still works fine even with my Internet connection on it 😊 Still got about 50m of it left. The wires are in twisted pairs to minimise induced RFI/EMI.

Ciao, Doug


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
28th Jul 2018 12:18  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44305

link to Canadian warehouse-
https://www.banggood.com/100Pcs-3mm-Round-Top-LED-Diodes-Lig...


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
28th Jul 2018 13:40  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44307

Well, Good morning Sir Doug!


"Fair winds calm Seas"
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
28th Jul 2018 14:01  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44308

Don't YOU start 😲
..


or I'll have you thrown in the Tower😁


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
28th Jul 2018 14:06  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44311

Sorry, I couldn't resist!😉


"Fair winds calm Seas"
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
28th Jul 2018 14:09  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44312

That's what I was afraid of 🤔
I'd have done the same 😉😁
BTW: I think Pete's 'nodded off' while posting!?


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
28th Jul 2018 14:50  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44313

Hey, Doug:

I’m heartily sorry if my gushy-sounding salutations & closings upset or offend you. It’s an old habit that my whole family & I picked up from my maternal grandmother over the years. Gram had a rare sense of humor that combined razor-sharp wit & wordplay with killer sarcasm that she could deliver with laser-guided accuracy to single or multiple targets. On those rare occasions that she missed her primary target, everyone in the room was still temporarily blinded by tears of mirth while they rolled around on the floor gasping for breath. My Mom, three sisters & I lived with Gram from the time I was 9 months old until I married & got my own place with my wife at age 22.

Gram’s arsenal of wit grew bigger & bigger even though she herself became physically smaller & smaller. In her final year she reached equilibrium where her age, weight & preferred room temperature were the same value: 98 (years/pounds/Fahrenheit).

Anyway, every time I repaired something at Gram’s House, usually plumbing or electrical problems, she was equal parts appreciative & amazed every time. I fixed dozens of things in her house & each time I told her I’d finished & said goodbye Gram would say something like “Thank you, Master of Plumbing Mysteries” or “I’m so glad you fixed the bathroom wall switch, “O Conqueror of Darkness”, that sort of thing. She grew up at a time when electrified homes & indoor plumbing didn’t exist & she always seemed to have a childlike sense of amazement with them. To her anyone who understood them & could fix them was a magician.

All that said I’ll be careful not to misspeak in the future. I hope you aren’t bothered by my clowning around occasionally. If so, just speak up & I’ll quit that, too.

Thank you,
Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
28th Jul 2018 14:53  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44314

Hey, watch it you guys. I recently had a feeling installed & I’m sensitive.😉 Narcolepsy is no fun, believe me. 😴


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
28th Jul 2018 15:21  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44316

No sweat Pete, our family is very similar, my Mum, 93 last March, is just the same. She was gobsmacked when I souped up her Mk1 Mini Cooper (many years ago😲), or fixed her up with digital TV on a 50" screen, installed an extra phone in her bedroom etc etc etc!

I just thought it was only a matter of time before someone started extracting the Michael. Should have known it would be Ed 😁😁
As for 'clowning around', check out my posts😉
All the best, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
28th Jul 2018 15:35  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44318

Pete, We're all one big happy family here on MBW!
We don't mean no harm!😁


"Fair winds calm Seas"
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
28th Jul 2018 23:19  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44326

Doug??

What is “extracting the Michael”? I’ve never heard that expression before. Sounds like a technique that a plumber with a fondness for naming his tools would use to pull his stuck plumber’s helper out of a WC.

I’m sorry about that one. Anyway, have you pretty much finalized your resistor options for the tug’s LEDs? Judging from your observations things seem to be working very well indeed. If you have already posted your final configuration I’m sorry but I didn’t see it. What little bit I’ve been able to read about the project appeared to be on a path to optimization. Obviously I don’t want to buy incorrect resistors. That’s not likely to matter much because I’ve found a source where I can buy as many as “2600 1/4 watt .1% metal film resistors in 130 values” in one lot for $10.63 US including free delivery. Smaller lots are available from the same source for far less, also with free delivery. I just need to be certain of your final choices as determined by your tests.

Thank you,
Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
28th Jul 2018 23:43  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44328

Almost on the right track Pete. Sort of😉
"Taking the piss (micturition), " -> "Taking the Mickey" -> "Extracting the Michael" 😁
Quaint Commonwealth expressions for pulling someone's leg, mocking them in a jokey manner. Some versions derived from Cockney rhyming slang; piss -> Mickey Bliss -> Mickey! 'Polite' version - Michael.
https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Taking_the_piss
😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
29th Jul 2018 20:38  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44363

Hello, Figtree7nts:

What about “happy”? You wrote “we're all one big family”. Over here we’d usually say “we're all one big, happy family”. Are we not happy? Would anyone not grin from ear to ear when they see their boat on the water for the first time? Wouldn’t any of us be over the moon when our new boat kit arrives? If this or any other hobby doesn’t make us happy then why do it at all?

The above is all in good fun but far off topic.

Over to you, Doug:

For my project can I use the spreadsheets & drawing you’ve already sent or do you plan on posting revised versions based on your operating observations & adjustments? I’m going make a PDF of this entire post eventually so I’ll have a good reference to use as my project progresses. There a many very useful tips & parts sources throughout as well.

BTW have seen the scale boats made by Aquacraft? They’ve got four very nice boats (actually three boats & one ship) that are large, very well detailed & realistic. There’s a tug, a fire/rescue boat, a trawler & a fantastic 1/72 scale US Navy Fletcher-class destroyer that could easily be used as a movie prop. It’s over 5 feet long & priced at about $700 US. My wife said if I spend that much on a boat she’d better be able to ride in it or she’ll leave. I’ll really miss the old girl.🤪Here’s a link to Aquacraft’s page for the model. There’s a nice photo gallery as well as a video:

https://www.aquacraftmodels.com/boats/aqub5705-fletcher-clas...

I have my eye on the Bristol Trawler. I’ve always like trawlers & the Bristol is a beauty. It comes with a full range of LED navigation lights (including mast lights). There’s no working horn but that’s about the only thing lacking. This reminds of a joke: Why do cows have bells?🐮Because their horns don’t work!

Thanks, Pete.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
29th Jul 2018 22:36  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44367

Hi Pete,

Yes, We are all one big happy family!👍
And I'm always very happy to receive.
My kits in the mail or ups or what ever.
Aquacraft is a very good model company!
I haven't collected a trawler yet.
If you get one I look forward to your post!

Regards, Ed


"Fair winds calm Seas"
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
29th Jul 2018 23:21  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44370

Hi Pete,
the wiring diagram as such will stay as it is, but after my test results I will revise the resistor value (upwards) to reduce the power requirement without reducing the perceived brightness.
Also to damp down the whites a little and bring up the yellows, otherwise I reckon the white mast lamps will be blinding and the yellow deck lights will look oddly dim. I would be tempted to use whites for the deck lights, maybe put a dollop of yellow glass lacquer on them to tone 'em down a bit.

Apropos Fletcher Class; I have 1/144 kit I intend to convert to RC.
My H class destroyer 1/72, HMS Belfast cruiser and Graf Spee pocket battleship 1/128 are also all about 4&1/2 to 5 feet!
Don't know how much longer I'll be able to carry them to the lake so I'm considering building a trailer, like I've seen here on the site, and using Jessica's old RC beach buggy to haul them 😊
Also have a 1/96 kit of the fast cruiser / minelayer HMS Manxman which is scheduled for the next winter build. Also 4 foot something 😲
Cheers, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
29th Jul 2018 23:43  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44372

Thanks, Doug.

I really like the idea of simply using the exact same white LED for everything, including all of the colored LEDs currently on the boat. Coloring each LED the appropriate colors is the ideal solution. Glass lacquer is a great idea, plus Tamiya makes a translucent or semi-opaque acrylic paint available in many colors. Paints are ideal because I can control the depth of color simply by applying more coats. Another plus is that I can replace the somewhat cheesy looking port & starboard sidelights with more realistic ones. I like it!

Will you please rework things as necessary to account for white LEDs as I’ve described?

Things are coming together beautifully.

Thanks,
Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
29th Jul 2018 23:50  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44373

OK will do👍
Since you've already got a 'lifetime supply' of white LEDs (and I know their spec now👍) it makes sense.
In the dim and distant past I used glass lacquer on the old 3V 'rice grain' bulbs to good effect on my destroyer.
It might be more difficult to get a decent red and green effect with lacquer though! Suck it an' see before you rush off and buy coloured LEDs 😉
Doug


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
30th Jul 2018 00:19  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44376

BTW: if you go for the glass lacquer don't apply it with a brush, dip the LEDs and hang 'em up to drip dry! How do I know? Learning by doing!! 😉


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
30th Jul 2018 02:24  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44392

Hey, Doug:

Thanks for the excellent advice. The “dip/dry/repeat if necessary” technique for coloring LEDs makes the most sense. Brush painting transparent colors always seems to result in a very blotchy finish.

Now that I can see well again I think I’ll turn my attention to removing the molded-on ladder rungs inside the mast. Sounds like a job for my little cordless Dremel.

Thanks,
Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
30th Jul 2018 02:34  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44394

"Brush painting transparent colors always seems to result in a very blotchy finish."
That's EXACTLY the experience I made and why I recommend drip dry😊
Happy Dremeling 😁


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
figtree7nts
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 457
30th Jul 2018 02:35  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44395

Evening Pete,

Are you going to document what you do?
By posting picture and a thread?

Ed


"Fair winds calm Seas"
onetenor
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 405
30th Jul 2018 02:59  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44396

Loads of resistors going cheap (no not cheep) on bang good at PRESENT V👍😁ELLY SHEEP

pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
30th Jul 2018 03:43  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44400

Hey, Ed:

Yes, I’ll take several photos to document the project. I’ll shoot a video or two as well to highlight the differences between the tug’s original factory lighting & the new setup. I’ll shoot video of the tug out on the water at dusk, first with the light off, then with the lights on. It should look pretty good.

It’ll be a while before anything gets posted because I still have to get all the parts. I have a lot of nasty medical stuff to deal with, too.

Wish me luck.

Thanks,
Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
30th Jul 2018 03:50  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44403

Shucks John, an' I just bought a batch o resistors 🤔
They don't make no noise neither 😁
G'night, cheers, 'Sleepless in Munich' 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
onetenor
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 405
30th Jul 2018 03:56  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44405

Likewise in Meliden N.W.👍👍 Probably too many in most of the batches unless you sold some on Flea bay. Mixed values BTW😊👍👍I've ordered a hundred of ten to twenty ohms Ten of each for about £3.50👍👍

RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
30th Jul 2018 04:05  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44406

Meliden! Sink a pint for me at the Red Lion 👍
Or do you prefer the Miner's Arms?

My Spies are everywhere 😁😁


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
30th Jul 2018 04:08  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44407

I just bought 20 of everything between 1 Ohm and zig MegOhms for about 7 Quid.
Should keep me going for a week or two 😁
What on earth do you do with 10 to 20 Ohms??


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
2nd Aug 2018 02:40  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44539

Hello, Doug:

I stumbled upon some other LEDs that are particularly well suited for navigation lights. They have the same specs as the rectangular LEDs shown in the photo I posted recently, but what makes them ideal for me is that they’re flat-topped, not domed. They’re cylindrical in shape, still 3mm diameter & look quite similar to ship’s lanterns (see photo). With your experience you’ve probably seen these before, but I was surprised to see them. My plan is similar to the original idea for making scale lights, except as we last discussed white LEDs will be used everywhere, colored by dipping them in appropriately colored glass paint. For the mast lights that will remain white but need to emit light at a given angle, I’ll mask & paint the LED’s body the same color as the mast, resulting in a clear aperture. 4mm & 2.5mm diameter disks punched from sheet styrene, glued one atop the other, then painted & glued to the top of each LED will form the light’s top covers.

What do you think?

BTW, the flat-top LEDs are also available in a variety of colors. If anyone is interested I’ll post the url to their location.

Thanks,
Pete


Attached Files - Click To View Large


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
2nd Aug 2018 11:33  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44541

Sounds good to me Pete👍
Use the resistor values in the table I already posted.
Post the url please.
Cheers Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
2nd Aug 2018 16:14  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44544

Good afternoon, Doug:

I found the flat-topped LEDs at Ali Express. The url for these LEDs is: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32462840779.html?

I’ve included another photo of the LED that has a dimensioned sketch with it. FYI, I’ve ordered lots of stuff from Ali Express, such as hobby tools & supplies, electronic components, gizmos, gewgaws & doodads. One particularly nice thing I purchased is a wireless guitar-to-amp device. Everything I’ve bought has been top-quality, but because nearly everything ships from China it can take several weeks to be delivered to me here in Massachusetts.

Now for the inevitable question:

If I use your drawing as it is now & modified the circuit board, added the resistors as you’ve already indicated & connected white LEDs in all locations, everything would work OK, but some LEDs would be brighter than others because your design was based on using colored LEDs. Correct? Based on your observations & experience would any harm be done? Don’t worry, I’m not going to jump the gun without your final drawing (which I’m in no rush for...take your time). I’m just curious.

Which leads to my last remark, for now. For some reason my wife thinks I ask far more questions than “normal” people do. She claims that I’m exceedingly curious. I don’t know what she means, but her offhand remarks have inspired me to rechristen the Richardson. When the LED project is complete & the tug is all ship-shape & Bristol fashion, her new name will be: “Curiosity”.


Attached Files - Click To View Large


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
2nd Aug 2018 17:00  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44547

Hi Pete,
Thanks for the link👍 The flat on those diodes should make them easier to fit to the mast😉

Use the 150 and 330 Ohm resistors as in the drawing.
If after painting test 'em and if you feel that the red/green and/or the two yellow deck lights are not bright enough reduce their resistors to 120Ohms.
If anything looks TOO bright or gets warm go one resistor value up.
I.e. 150 --> 180, 330 --> 470.
Good name for the boat👍
Maybe I'll name mine 'Knowall' or 'No-😊orl'.
Cheers, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
2nd Aug 2018 19:11  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44556

Hey, Doug:

Thanks again. I’ll take your suggestions & mark up your drawing accordingly. I still need to finish clearing away the molded-on plastic details inside the mast, then order the parts for this project. I generally don’t like starting any kind of project until everything needed is on hand (everything I think I’ll need, that is). You’ll probably have your tug’s lighting finished long before I do.

I’m looking forward to being able to use my desktop PC comfortably again. Every word & photo I’ve posted on this fantastic site so far has been typed on or photographed with my trusty iPhone 6. It’s very convenient but it’s awfully hard on my eyes. The little touch keyboard is a challenge for my beat up old dinner plate-size mitts, too.

Anyway, when my tug’s new lighting & modified controls are all built, tested & buttoned up I’d like to combine your drawing, spreadsheets & various notes with my own hen scratches, notes & miscellaneous observations into a CAD drawing. Naturally you’ll be cited as the project EE/electronics designer on the drawing’s title block.

I’m confident in saying that your tug’s lighting will use factory colored LEDs, not hand-colored white ones. It would be a shame if I didn’t follow suit & use your design for colored LEDs as originally intended. I’ll much more satisfied knowing that the new navigation lights & other changes were done the right way.

The glass paint is coming off my list!

Thanks,
Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
2nd Aug 2018 19:22  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44557

Hi Pete,
👍 The glass paint was only a 'wild card' suggestion when I saw that you had dozens of white LEDs 😉 Just happened to see it in the cupboard, I'd used it on some 3V bulbs for my destroyer years ago.

Dunno about mine being finished first. I've got a few other things cooking before I'll get back to to the Southampton. On the other hand ...... 😁😁
Good luck👍 Cheers, Doug 😎
PS make a chain of the white LEDs and use them for 'dressing ship'! 😁


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
2nd Aug 2018 19:48  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44559

Doug:

The glass paint is indeed a great idea. It’s an idea that I’ll consider seriously whenever a situation arises that’ll make using colored LEDs impractical, such as on my 1:350 SS Normandie kit, maybe?

Finding the flat-topped LEDs made staying with your original design an easy choice.

Regardless of when the job gets done, I can just imagine launching the tug late in the day, waiting until just before dusk, then switching the lights on with the transmitter’s function buttons until they’re all shining & reflecting in the water.

It doesn’t get much better than that.

Thanks,
Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
2nd Aug 2018 19:55  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44560

Hi
I also have a collection of 1:350 kits; HMS Ark Royal (carrier), HMS Hood, USS Enterprise The Big 'E', Bismarck and Titanic. Reckon I'll probably have to use the tiny chip LEDs for those.😲🤓

Can't wait to see photos / vids of 'Curiosity' in action👍


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
2nd Aug 2018 21:16  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44565

Doug:

Why do we do it? So many kits, so little time. I just looked at my list...736 kits, not counting the last year’s worth of purchases. I’ve convinced myself that it’s a nest egg.

My downstairs stash of 1:350 ships also has the Tamiya HMS Hood, Big E & USS Missouri. I’ve got the RMS Titanic, too & the RMS Lusitania as well. Subs of all types, a resin USS Long Beach & Bainbridge to compliment the Big E. Remember the famous “Nuclear Navy Trio” photo? I’ve attached a copy in case anyone hasn’t seen it.


The 1:350 Normandie is an astounding resin cottage industry kit that I got at a very good discount but it still cost twice as much as my first car! I can send you the link to it if you like, but make sure you’re seated before you look at the price.

BTW, I found sets of pre-cut, self-adhesive wood decks for the Titanic & Hood, too, I believe, & a few others, but I can’t remember which ones. They really make a model pop, for sure, but I’d be inclined to use contact cement or something so they don’t “pop” off the model. If you’re interested I can send info about those to you, too.

Pete


Attached Files - Click To View Large


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
2nd Aug 2018 22:02  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44568

Hi Pete,
That was just a selection of my larger 350 scale kits! Forgot HMS Prince of Wales battleship😉
I also have a vast collection of everything from 720 to 72, including the Revell Flower Class corvette. I started an XL spread sheet to keep track of them with scale and size data, number of shafts, and where practical and already measured max load capacity!

Re: wood decks; I have them on my Graf Spee and HMS Belfast both 1:128, and have bought them for Hood, Bismarck and the corvette.
In my experience the self adhesive starts to pull up at the edges, always in the most awkward place to get to to fix😡 I learned to use a gel type gluper sue for first time fitting and thin runny stuff for repairs so it creeps under the edge a bit.
Yes please, the info on the decks would be useful especially Titanic. i have a premium version with lots of etch parts but no wood I think.
Why do we do it? Cos we're nuts! Prerequisite for scale modelling 😁
Happy modelling, Cheers, Doug 😎
PS my favourite carrier photo attached; Capn of the Nimitz wanted to go water skiing 😁😁


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
Rookysailor
(Commander)





Forum Posts: 99
2nd Aug 2018 22:35  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44569

Hi Doug, with reference to your wooden decks for the 1/72 flower class corvette, where did you get them from? I'm having trouble getting any browser info🤔
many thanks, Peter😋

RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
2nd Aug 2018 22:40  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44570

My God Peter! I've no idea now 😲 She's been in the stash for about 25 years or more now 🤔
Sorry. I'll look for the bits n pieces tomorrow n see if there's any clues. Ciao Doug
PS Found it! It was in the Great Little Ships Deck And Fittings Set, and it's brass not wood, and heavy.😲
https://www.djparkins.com/product.php?productid=18179&cat=30...
In the meantime I believe Artwox in Oz do a wood deck.


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
Rookysailor
(Commander)





Forum Posts: 99
2nd Aug 2018 23:26  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44574

Many thanks Doug, once again to the rescue👍, would like to build mine as a USS one, any ideas....then maybe keep the deck steel!
just fancy a different version than the usual HMCS ones.
Peter😁

RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
2nd Aug 2018 23:40  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44575

Know what you mean Peter, I think, when I get round to her, I'll do mine as 'HMS Compass Rose'. The 'fictitious' ship in Nicholas Monserrat's book 'The Cruel Sea'. Which is based on his experiences on a Flower Class in the Battle of the Atlantic. Well worth a read👍 Difficult to put down 😲

Try Googling and/or Wikiing Flower Class corvette and you should get oodles of links to photos of the originals and suppliers of kits n bits.
What you could do of course is to Go The Whole Hog and buy the newer Revell Premium version of the kit. That has wooden decks and a host of detailed upgrade parts. Plus LED lights etc 😊 List price here €199.
https://www.revell.de/en/products/revell-technik/flower-clas...
Whatever you do, enjoy it😊 Cos otherwise there ain't no point is there!?
All the best, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
Rookysailor
(Commander)





Forum Posts: 99
2nd Aug 2018 23:52  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44576

Strange that you should mention the Movie/book 'The Cruel Sea', have just bought the DVD from Ebay, looking forward to watching it once again. I have an old Revell corvette kit, and last month bought the NEW corvette kit from Revell which has most of the lighting in kit form, plus revolving radar, but very annoyed 😆to find out that there is no p/e parts or wooden decking as in the platinum edition, but it only cost me £100 + vat trade deal, sssh🤐
Cheers Peter😊

RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
3rd Aug 2018 00:01  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44579

Hmmm! Thanks for the warning👍
I've also got the old original kit, no lights or rotating radar, but those are no great sweat anyway.😉 And have collected a mass of 'after market parts. Premium edition seems to have disappeared? Shame.
Enjoy the film, but get the book. It's worth it.
G'night, Doug 😊 ZZZZZZZZZZ


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
3rd Aug 2018 00:10  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44581

Wadaya Know!
There's still some Premiums / Platinums around and not so pricey now😊
https://www.modellbau-universe.de/produkt%3Bflower-class-cor...


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
onetenor
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 405
3rd Aug 2018 17:08  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44589

Hi doug Can't get a word in sideways /edgewise LOL. Re the resistors I'm repairing some "wall warts" and need output resistors which have been burned out by shorting. Guessing the resist needed but quite small.All I have tried so far have been too much. Red Lion, Miners very good but The Star (old Plough) is less than 100 yds away opposite the end of the Grove where we live. Just across the main road. How come you know Meliden then? The thing is I'm more or less T-Total.😜👍

RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
3rd Aug 2018 21:51  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44591

H
i

J
o
h
n
My 'word in edgewise'😉😁
Are you sure they are resistors and not chokes? What output voltage and current rating are the Warts?

Can't claim to 'know' Meliden! Nearly 50 years ago I lived at RAF Cosford, between Wolverhampton and Wellington, and from there, or when I visited an Aunt & Uncle in New Brighton Wallasey, we used to tour North Wales from time to time. Meliden rang a faint bell, so I Google-mapped it 😉

Sometime much later after a business trip to Liverpool I took 'the pretty way, home to Sandhurst via Wales and the M4 😁 Loved it 👍

The Grove huh? Bet that's your Boat Transporter 😁😁
Cheers, Doug 😎


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
onetenor
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 405
4th Aug 2018 09:35  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44614

Deffo resistors come after the choke. They drop the voltage from 15v to 7.5v To charge Nimhs at 7.4 at various capacities from D cells singles or multiples down to 6 cells Half AA packs. The Ds are glow starters the others for various Radio/Power packs Say 19000 or so Mmilliamps down to a few hundred. all have been shorted some how and fried the resistors beyond readability. I'm doing this for fun as I have others I can use but would like to keep them with their original kit. If needs be I can series them. Auf Wieder whats it. John👍😁
PS thaf van is at no5 I live at no 7🤓

epmbcmember
(Sub-Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 24
8th Aug 2018 19:28  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44841

I have a Richardson Tug and have now got each prop with its own ESC, trouble is to do it I had to replace the radio which cut out the lights, horn and smoke so maybe to strip out everything and start again is the best idea. Individual twin props are good, it will now turn around in iys own length. I gues it depends on what you want to do with it, just sail it or use it for tug towing.

RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
8th Aug 2018 20:16  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/44845

Hi,
Put the original radio board, smoker and light wiring back in.
Take out your new RX and ESCs and use them for something else.
Then fit a P94 dual ESC and Rudder Mixer from Action Electronics, sold by Component shop. You will get the same effect when used in Mode 3 👍😁
You will only need the 10A version for the Richardson.
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p94l-dual-esc-and-mixer-2-x-...
Only difference with the 20A version is chunks of ally on the power transistors as heat sinks! Easy enough to 'self fit' 😉
Have fun, cheers, Doug😎


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
15th Sep 2018 19:27  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46216

Hi, Doug:

I hope all is well. FYI, I’ve received all but one of my parts orders needed for the LED Mast Light project. The flat top LEDs arrived today & will be perfect for Nav lights. I don’t know if I mentioned this before, but a while ago I decided that instead of starting work right away it would be best to wait until everything I need for the project is on hand.

While waiting for parts to arrive (& mysterious eye infections to clear up) I looked the boat’s Cabin & Pilot House over & made a list of details I want to add, changes or replace, not least of which is the conspicuous absence of a towing winch. Other things like adding a life raft canister, better looking life rings, fire extinguishers, etc. will come later, after completing the Mast LED Nav lights & wiring changes per your design.

This brings me back around to a wiring question. Some time ago we discussed using a common ground bus inside the Mast & soldering each of the six “-“ leads to it rather than using six wires to do the same job. I plan to put a plastic divider piece up the middle of the Mast & run the six “+” LED wires on one side. The other side will have the bare ground bus onto which the “-“ leads of each LED will be soldered. The question is: what gauge should the bus be? I was thinking of using a length of brass rod but I don’t know what diameter to use.

What do you think?

Thanks,
Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
15th Sep 2018 23:57  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46229

Mornin' Pete (it is in Germany anyway!)
I agree, there are lots of details and 'standard equipment' missing from the basic model. You can see the winch and Life Raft canister in one of the photos of the original I posted above.

Re Mast wiring; don't fiddle about putting a divider in the mast. It'll just get in the way. Attached is a pic of my modified mast. I used a 0.5mm brass wire on the right-hand side for the earth return. Wire is better than rod cos it's flexible (can be pushed into the corner). I glued it in with gel Gluper Sue WHEN all connections were soldered and tested.
The LEDs are standard domed lens types. I ground the tops flat and painted the tops with several coats of matt black until it was opaque.
After testing I closed off the mast with some plasticard and fitted ladder rungs made of copper wire. I also added the missing antenna cables to the bottom of the VHF IMM antennas, 0.5mm brass wire.
(Some time I'll also fit the missing GPS antenna and anemometer.)
Then painted the mast matt black.
I then turned my attention to the searchlight and red/green NAV lights.
First I stripped the wheelhouse roof and painted it white as in the original. On my model it was grey🤔
Then I drilled out the searchlight to accept a 5mm Bright White LED.
You won't have to do this cos you have a later version with lights, mine had none 😭 Then had to paint the searchlight with several coats of matt black. Otherwise it just glowed all round!
Pics show construction stages and finished lighting effect.
All wires inside the wheelhouse roof I super glued to the ceiling and ran them down inside the funnels (stacks to you guys across the pond!😉) ready for connection to a switch board in the hull.
While I was at it I rubbed the false Southampton name off the cabin using a 1000 grit Tamiya sponge and am preparing inkjet printed decals with the correct Wyeforce name and logo.
Have fun getting all lit up Pete,😁
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS Attached some pics showing the original 'Southampton' 😉 and making obvious what's missing on the model 🤔


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
16th Sep 2018 03:55  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46231

Hey, Doug

What you’ve done so far looks terrific. I noticed that you stayed with four lights on the mast itself. I take it you’ll also replace the two “dummy“ lights on the stub mast (behind the pilot house) with working ones? I considered the same thing but I like the look of all six lights on the “main” mast.

Based on how things usually work out for me I’m still going to put a divider or barrier in the mast before I button it up. If there’s the slightest ghost of a chance of a short in the wiring it’ll happen to me. Five minutes’ work & a scrap of plastic will help me sleep better.

Regarding the winch, it appears to be a very simple unit (see attached photos). The large bitt/towing hook unit in the photos hides some of the winch details, but it doesn’t look like a complicated unit to model. A few pieces of plastic sheet stock, some rounds & a few bits from the spares boxes is pretty much all it’ll take. I plan to attach the winch assembly to the Deckhouse; not to the deck. The base plate for the winch will need to be shaped to fit around the horn speaker grille holes in the deck but otherwise no problems. I already have a large roll of scale rope to wind around the drum.

If anyone who reads this happens to have photos or a sketch of the winch in full view please post them if you’re willing.

Thanks.

Pete


Attached Files - Click To View Large


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
16th Sep 2018 16:14  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46253

Hi Pete,
Thanks 😊 Yep, I decided to stick with 4 lights cos tha's all I see on the original 'WYEFORCE'. Yep again! I do intend to modify the two lights on the stub mast; 1 yellow 'Towing' and 1 white 'Stern'.
I will also fit a wheelhouse light. Decided to do it 'fluorescent' style by fitting 2 white 3mm LEDs in the ends of a long block of 5mm perspex.
After that the 2 work-deck floodlights, lower cabin lights and 2 deck lamps 1 each side of the main cabin. I'll probably link the cabin and deck lights so that they all come on together. Now pondering how to build a miniature working diesel genny to power them all😁
Good luck with your divider! You will have more wires to squash in than I did so I doubt there's room. Have fun trying.
I separated the wires quite easily by keeping all the negative legs of the LEDs (that's the leg going to the larger electrode in the diode) on one side and soldering them to the brass wire negative rail first.
Then I took colour coded thin 'hook-up' wire to each LED in turn; working from the top down. Cut the LED leg to 1/4", stripped the hook-up wire back 1/4", twisted the wire strands together and tinned it. Tin the LED leg as well and bend it 90° down the mast. Then it's easy to solder the wire cleanly to the LED keeping it well away from any other wires. When all was connected, and tested OK, I stuck the wires down with thick gel super glue so they can't wander about.

To fit the LEDs to the mast, I removed the brackets; removed the dummy lights with a razor saw, filed the mounting flat and drilled holes for the LED legs in them, using a 0.75mm drill bit in a pin chuck, and glued the LEDs on with gluper sue.
Then I bent the leads 90° back towards the mast and drilled 0.75mm holes horizontally into the mast so I could literally 'plug' the lamp bracket complete with LED straight in and glue it down.
Painted matt black the leads become invisible, as in 3rd pic above😉

Winch: at least your version of the model seems to HAVE a winch! Or where did those two pics come from? Mine ain't got nuffink, just a big 'ole at the back of the cabin😭
All the best, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
17th Sep 2018 13:44  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46271

Hello, Doug:

Out of curiosity, did you remove the molded-on plastic ladder rungs from inside of the mast to gain more space for wires?

Seeing your finished mast has shown me that it’s best to keep the original nav light locations. Having all 6 lights on the main mast will make it look too cluttered. With all of the lights switched on it’ll look like a light saber is jutting out of the pilot house roof.

Do you know if there are standards governing the horizontal spacing of navigation lights? There should be, otherwise I’d think the lights could tend to overlap & look like one big light, especially in fog.

BTW, the cables you added to the mast antennas look great. The smooth curve of the cables & the weather boots at the antenna connections add a lot of realism. Well done!👍🏻

Speaking of details, do you know if tugboats carry anchors? If so, what type? As far as I know the US Coast Guard requires every powered vessel to have at least one anchor. I see no reason why tugboats would be exempt from this rule.

I’m glad you mentioned using a Tamiya sanding sponge as a means of removing the factory-applied lettering. There’s a model railroad technique I’ve used successfully where an ordinary pencil eraser & window cleaner are used to remove lettering. I’m sure it would work on my boat but I might not live long enough to get it finished. Shortly after I got the boat I ordered a cloth American flag & scale Plimsoll markings from BECC. Sadly BECC has gone out of business. Another good supplier goes around the bowl & down the hole. Sad.

Regarding the winch again, your comments tell me that I may have misled you into thinking that my boat has a winch. It doesn’t, but I did say I’m planning to scratchbuild one. In fact, I’m going to sketch one out right after I post this message.

Thanks,
Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
17th Sep 2018 15:45  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46274

Hi Pete, Welcome back👍
Yes, I did remove the moulded rungs. No chance of cramming the wiring in if you don't. I just twisted them out with a small pair of pliers and machined the rest out with a 3mm milling bit in my mini drill.
I had hoped you would come to the 'cluttered' conclusion about the mast!
Don't know of any standards for lamp spacing, never thought about. Spect there is, maybe Ed (figtree) knows, but he's having internet problems at the moment 🤔

Thanks re antenna cables. Not difficult with a couple of chunks of copper wire and the pin-drill. Some time I will also add the two small booms carrying a GPS antenna and an anemometer.
Re anchors: all tugs I've ever seen have anchors. This is on my list of 'Missing details on the model'. It's quite a long list🤔
Pics attached showing the anchor in a recess on the stbd bow.

BECC still exist but only seem to sell through agents/stockists now.
Here the US/Canada stockists;-
http://www.becc.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d47.html
This probably your best bet
http://www.loyalhannadockyard.com/
Some of the others have disappeared😲

Look forward to your winch sketch, cos I wanna build one too!
Cheers, Doug 😎


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
17th Sep 2018 16:32  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46278

Doug:

I feel like a dunce for not noticing that anchor before. It sticks out like a sore thumb if you know where to look. That’s another thing that I’m surprised hobby engine didn’t add to the boat. I guess in the long run it was easier for moldmaking purposes to omit that particular detail. That’s another thing, however, that wouldn’t be all that hard to scratchbuild. All that’s needed is to cut an opening in the bulwark & build a sheet styrene box for the housing. It’s not exactly a high priority item, but I think it would go a long way toward adding realism.

So far none of the photos of the Wyforce I’ve seen show what the anchor enclosure looks like on the inside of the bulwark. Then again maybe some of them did & I missed that, too. I assume there’s an anchor winch, possibly below deck near the chain locker. I expect there’s a “drop/raise” button inside the pilot house. I’ll browse for a photo of the anchor & post it if I succeed.

Thanks


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
17th Sep 2018 18:29  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46280

Evenin Pete,
Here's link to a Harbour tug site with more pics, including work deck and inside the wheelhouse.
Cheers, Doug 😎

http://www.danwalker.co.uk/Harbour_Tug_html/tuginfo.html


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
17th Sep 2018 21:14  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46287

Hey, Doug.

Thanks for the photo link; I grabbed them for my reference archive. The winch can be seen again in one view; I think I have plenty of information now to extract measurements & sketch a fair representation.

Thanks again.

Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
19th Sep 2018 08:56  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46348

Hi, Doug.

I’ve attached a zoomed-in photo of the “Anchor Enclosure” that’s built into the starboard bow bulwark of the Wyeforce. There’s an anchor in the box but I can’t tell for sure what kind it is. Maybe a navy-type with the fluke & bill pointed inward toward the deck? A better photo is needed to be sure, so I’ll keep looking. The enclosure itself would be simple to build & fit to the hull.

I remember seeing a photo of the boat’s foredeck area that showed what may have been a hawse pipe running inboard from behind anchor enclosure & down through the deck, presumably to a winch belowdecks? Does that make sense?

Pete


Attached Files - Click To View Large


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
Colin H.
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 409
19th Sep 2018 15:41  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46349

Try this pic it may help.


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Fair winds and calm waters,
COLIN.
Colin H.
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 409
19th Sep 2018 15:42  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46350

Or this.


Attached Files - Click To View Large


Fair winds and calm waters,
COLIN.
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
19th Sep 2018 17:53  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46352

Thanks.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
19th Sep 2018 19:53  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46359

You beat me to it Colin 👍 I found those as well and zoomed 'em.
Looks like a form of Hi-Drag Stockless to me. ZY-6 perhaps?
https://www.google.com/search?q=anchor&client=firefox-b&tbm=...
Cheers, Doug
https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Stockless_anchor


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
10th Oct 2018 18:45  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46949

Hello, Doug!

I’m happy to report that my eyes are finally healed & I’m ready to get cracking on my tug’s LED lighting improvement project. Needless to say it’s so fantastic to be able to see again. The infection was so bad that I had to move around the house for weeks with at least one hand on the wall or I was in danger of falling or walking into the china cabinet. I lost what’s called “stereo vision” & had no depth perception. It was a nightmare to say the least, especially considering that the source of the infection remains unknown. But I just had a checkup at the ophthalmologist‘s office & I was given the happy news that all traces of the infection are completely gone. Hallelujah!🙏🏼👁👁

BTW, did you complete your tug’s mast LED lighting project? I recall that you had finished up the mast itself & had its LEDs working. Were you able to reinstall the mast in the pilot house roof & get everything back together without any problems? At one point you had mentioned possibly making a plug & socket arrangement for the mast so that it could be removed for safer transport to the lake. Were you able to follow through with that plan or was it just is easy to simply re-install the mast? finished for your dog? If so, how did it come out?

I hope all is well with you & that your many projects are all turning out successfully.


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
Haverlock
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 487
10th Oct 2018 20:06  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46953

if your still thinking about the cabin light you may like to think about using a surface mounted LED

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Surface-Mounted-LEDs-10-Pack-Choo...

Just to give you an idea


"that's not a bug its just an undocumented creature."

Sir Terence David John "Terry" Pratchett, OBE (28 April 1948 - 12 March 2015)
pittsfieldpete
(Lieutenant)





Forum Posts: 80
10th Oct 2018 21:36  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46960

Thanks for the information. Following Doug’s lead I came up with an idea for a scale fluorescent light fixture to install on the pilot house ceiling. I have odds & ends in my spare parts boxes that I can use to make the fixture, complete with a reflector & transparent pebble-surface scale diffuser. Even though the fixture won’t be visible I still want to achieve nice, even light in the pilot house with minimal shadows.

The fixture design is still on the mental drawing board at this point but I’m reasonably sure it’ll work in the tug’s pilot house. If it doesn’t, however, I’ll definitely look into your suggestion.

Thanks for reading my post & for your helpful advice, too.

Pete


“There is nothing...absolutely nothing...half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”.

Kenneth Grahame, Author
1859 - 1932
RNinMunich
(Fleet Admiral!)





Forum Posts: 2321
10th Oct 2018 23:05  
>> Permalink
mdlbt.com/46962

Hi Pete, welcome back😊
Glad your eyeballs have cleared up 👍
Just ordered new goggles yesterday, should be here end of the month, then I can fiddle with 1mm LEDs again - maybe😉

No, I didn't put a plug and socket at the base of the mast.
I hard wired it into connections in the wheelhouse roof. Then took all the wires down through the funnels until they poked out the bottom of the main cabin. That's it for now. The mast is not glued in, it's a tight push fit so can still be folded down a bit.
Later I'll make the little distribution board and put the plug and socket there so I can still remove the whole superstructure for maintenance.

No again, I haven't done any more on the Southampton yet.
Been busy fiddling with my fish cutter Gina 2, hull preparation and preliminary coat of white paint, and cleaning up Colin's vintage Taycol field coil motor. See Electrical Blogs 'Taycol Supermarine'.

Cheers, Doug 😎


Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can,
and the Wisdom to know the difference!