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Hi all, I want to connect three ESC,s which connect to the three motors . I have looked at the mtroniks W-tail marine mixer and I am not sure if this will do the job, they seem more for 2 motors rather than three . any suggestions
Hi TJ, The third motor can be connected to one of the secondary outputs, rudder or third (central) motor as it has no effect on the steering! The mixer only affects the two outer motors to augment the steering. Fairly elementary, anything on the boat's longitudinal axis can't have any leverage effect on the steering.😁 "The WTail mixer also has two extra outputs to allow you to connect up a rudder and a further centrally mounted motor." Ciao, Doug 😎
Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can, and the Wisdom to know the difference!
Much better thanks TJ. 😉 That mixer looks like a useful piece of kit, thanks for the tip👍 BTW: what type ESCs and motors are you using? Cheers, Doug😎
Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can, and the Wisdom to know the difference!
Hi Doug I am using 3 mtroniks viper marine 15 ESC,s and 3 MFA RE-380-Pole DC Motors all have been tested singularly at low speed and connected to 4mm propeller shafts and 30mm propellers and all went well
Hi TJ, Sounds pretty good, what's the boat? Pics??? Cheers, Doug 😎
Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can, and the Wisdom to know the difference!
Hi TJ, RE: RX battery. Any 4 or 5 cell (4.8 or 6V) NiMh of 1000mAh up will do. Use the biggest one you can without upsetting the boat's trim or reducing it's performance / planing etc. BUT: don't forget to disconnect the red wires between your ESCs and RX to disconnect the BECs in the mTroniks speed controllers!!! Also check that your RX and mixer module etc can handle 6V+! If not use the 4 cell pack. A fully charged NiMh will be significantly above 6V. Some modules; e.g. Action Electronics / Component Shop don't like that 😡 Alternatives are, esp if you need to save weight, 1 use ONE of the red BEC leads from ESC to RX, e.g. the centre one, and disconnect the other two, 2 Use a separate 5V UBEC module to syphon power off the drive battery for the RX, AND disconnect all three red BEC wires from the ESCs. Cheers, Doug 😎
Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can, and the Wisdom to know the difference!
Hi all and thank you for your comments, and thanks to Doug, have read and understood order is placed and looking forward to setting it up as advised, and I will try to remember to use paragraph's or smaller chapters.👍
Your more than welcome TJ. Re paragraphs etc; was a well meant 'Word to the Wise', just to make your interesting contributions easier to read. 😉 Keep up the good work👍 Which configuration did you decide on in the end? On my single screw boats, like my Sea Scout, I tend to just use the BEC from the ESC and no separate RX battery. On my multi screw ships, the majority actually, from two to four screws (PTB to HMS Belfast cruiser) I always use a separate RX battery. On the basis that I reckon that the drive battery already has enough to do 😉 So I use 4.8 or 6V NiMh batteries of around 1500 to 2000mAh. Always put a switch between the batt and the RX. Also a switch and a fuse, approx 5A lower than the ESC max current rating, between the drive battery and the ESC(s). All the best, Doug 😎
Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug Grant me the Serenity to accept things I can't change, - the Courage to change things that I can, and the Wisdom to know the difference!
8th Oct 2018 22:47
